Frommer's India (Frommer's Complete) - 2nd edition

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India 2nd Edition by Pippa de Bruyn, Niloufer Venkatraman & Dr. Keith Bain

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers

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India 2nd Edition by Pippa de Bruyn, Niloufer Venkatraman & Dr. Keith Bain

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About the Authors Pippa de Bruyn is an award-winning journalist, travel writer (author of Frommer’s South Africa), and freelance editor. Niloufer Venkatraman has a doctoral degree in anthropology from Temple University in Philadelphia. She has traveled widely since the age of 9, and has always been as awed by other places and cultures as her own. A resident of her native Mumbai, she has worked as lecturer in sociology and anthropology, giving up the bureaucratic Indian academic scene in 2001 to turn her attention to working as a freelance writer and editor. Dr. Keith Bain has a doctoral degree in cinema. When he’s not traveling the world in search of fantastic experiences, he spends his time writing and lecturing about film, media, theater, and contemporary culture. Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-9899-9 ISBN-10: 0-7645-9899-6 Editor: Alexis Lipsitz Flippin Production Editor: Ian Skinnari Cartographer: Andrew Murphy Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5

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Contents List of Maps

What’s New in India

The Best of India

1 Experiencing Spiritual India . . . . . . . . .4 2 The Best Temples, Monuments & Lost Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 3 Unique Places to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 4 Most Memorable Moments . . . . . . . .10

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Planning Your Trip to India

5 Exploring Natural India . . . . . . . . . . .11 6 The Best Ayurvedic Pampering . . . . .13 7 The Best Eating & Drinking Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 8 The Best Savvy Traveler Tips . . . . . . .15

1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Visa Savvy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 11 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . . . . .43 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .22 12 Discovering Spiritual India . . . . . . . .44 4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 13 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 What Things Cost in India . . . . . . . .25 14 Customized Tours for the Independent Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . .47 5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 15 Escorted Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Events, Happenings & Festivals . . . . .29 16 Getting Around India . . . . . . . . . . . .50 6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Train Booking Simplified . . . . . . . . . .53 7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 The Romance of Rail: India’s Surviving Scams & Con Artists . . . . .36 Special Train Journeys . . . . . . . . . . .54 8 Etiquette & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 17 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .55 9 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .40 Fast Facts: India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 10 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .42

Suggested India Itineraries 1 North India Highlights in 15 Days . . .65 2 The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68

64 3 South India in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . .72 4 A Leisurely Southern Sojourn . . . . . .75

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CONTENTS

Mumbai: City of Dreamers 1 Arrival & Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . . .84 Fast Facts: Mumbai . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 3 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 Need a Break? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 4 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Hot Spots with Views . . . . . . . . . .104

3 North of Panjim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Psychedelic Journeys . . . . . . . . . . . .154 4 South of Panjim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155

5 6 7

218 3 Pondicherry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 4 Tiruchirappalli & Thanjavur (Tanjore) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242 5 Madurai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .246

Karnataka & Hyderabad: Kingdoms of the South Planning Your Tour . . . . . . . . . . . .250 1 Bangalore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251 Fast Facts: Bangalore . . . . . . . . . . .252 Breathe Away Anxiety & Stress with India’s Hottest New Age Guru . . . .256

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Fast Facts: Trivandrum . . . . . . . . . .191 From Kovalam to the Tip of India . . .196 Watching the Sun Rise from the Subcontinent’s Southernmost Tip . . .198 Lakshadweep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204 The Cardamom Hills & Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 Malabar: Northern Kerala . . . . . . . .213

Tamil Nadu: The Temple Tour 1 Chennai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 Rule of the Screen Gods . . . . . . . . .220 Fast Facts: Chennai . . . . . . . . . . . .222 2 Mamallapuram (Mahabalipurum) . . .232

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God’s Own Country: Kerala & Lakshadweep Ayurveda: Kerala’s Healing Balm . . .161 1 Cochin (Kochi) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162 Fast Facts: Cochin . . . . . . . . . . . . .168 2 The Backwaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180 Cruising Kerala on the World’s Smallest Luxury Liner . . . . . . . . . . .182 3 Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) & Varkala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189

5 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 7 Mumbai After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 The Spirit of Mumbai: 944 Millimeters, But Not Out . . . . .126 8 Aurangabad & the Ellora and Ajanta Caves . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128

Goa: Party in Paradise 1 Arrival & Orientation . . . . . . . . . . .137 Fast Facts: Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 2 Panjim (Panaji) & Old Goa . . . . . . .142

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Swinging in the Hip City of Bangalore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261 Rejuvenation City: Tip-Top Spas . . . .262 2 Mysore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264

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3 Exploring the Hoysala Heartland: Belur, Halebid & Sravanabelagola . . .268 Traveling Via Mangalore . . . . . . . . .271 4 Hampi & the Ruined City of Vijayanagar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271

A Tale of Seven Cities . . . . . . . . . . .290 Fast Facts: Delhi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294 Five-Star Hotels That Didn’t Make the Grade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .304 2 Agra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .319 The Life & Times of the Mughal Emperors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .322 3 Varanasi (Benaras) . . . . . . . . . . . . .332

371 6 Pushkar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .413 The Dargah Sharif & Other Ajmer Gems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .416 Passport to Pushkar: Saying Your Prayers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418 7 Udaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .420 Indian Solutions to a Global Problem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .426 Battling for a Glimpse of Beauty . . .430 Eighteenth-Century Tree Huggers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .441 8 Jodhpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .442 9 Jaisalmer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448 10 Gujarat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .454

Himachal Pradesh: On Top of the World 1 Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .460 2 The Golden Temple in Amritsar . . . .462 Fast Facts: Amritsar . . . . . . . . . . . .463

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Up in Flames . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .336 4 Lucknow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344 5 Khajuraho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348 6 Orchha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .358 The Gems of Gwalior . . . . . . . . . . .360 7 Bandhavgarh National Park . . . . . .362 8 Bhopal & Sanchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .365 9 The Fortress City of Mandu . . . . . . .368

Rajasthan: Land of Princes Land of Thirst: Rajasthan Today . . .372 1 Planning Your Trip to Rajasthan . . .372 Once Were Warriors: The History of the Rajput . . . . . . . . . . .374 2 Jaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377 Fast Facts: Jaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . .383 Transcendent Treat . . . . . . . . . . . .389 Understanding the Commission System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396 3 The National Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . .397 Wanted: Tigers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .398 4 Bundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .405 5 Shekhawati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408 Cantering through the Indian Outback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409

5 Side Trip to Northern Karnataka . . .275 6 Hyderabad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277 Asthmatics Say “A-aah!” . . . . . . . .281

The Heart of India: Delhi, the Taj, Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh 1 Delhi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286

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3 Shimla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .467 Visiting Le Corbusier’s Chandigarh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .468

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Fast Facts: Shimla . . . . . . . . . . . . . .471 4 Exploring Kinnaur & Spiti . . . . . . . .475 5 The Valley of the Gods: Central Himachal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .480

6 Exploring Dharamsala & the Kangra Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . .485 7 Leh & Environs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .492 Negotiating the Manali–Leh Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .494

Uttaranchal: Sacred Source of the Ganges

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1 Garhwal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502

3 Corbett National Park . . . . . . . . . . .515

Trekking through the Land of the Gods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .504 2 Kumaon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508

The Hunter-TurnedConservationist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .516

Kolkata (Calcutta) & East India 1 Kolkata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .520 Fast Facts: Kolkata . . . . . . . . . . . . .526 The Miracle of Mother Teresa & the “Pure Hearts” . . . . . . . . . . . . .530

520 2 Orissa’s Golden Temple Triangle . . .539 3 Darjeeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .545 4 Sikkim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .551

Appendix: India in Depth 1 India Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .558 by Anita Pratap

2 India Past to Present . . . . . . . . . . .561 by Nigel Worden

Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .562 3 The Religions of India . . . . . . . . . . .570

Index

558 4 Indian Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .573 by Niloufer Venkatraman

5 Reading India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .577 by Jerry Pinto

6 Bollywood & Beyond: India on the Big Screen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .579 by Jerry Pinto & Keith Bain

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List of Maps India 18 North India Highlights in 15 Days 67 The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Highlights 69 South India in 2 Weeks 73 A Leisurely Southern Sojourn 77 Mumbai 82 Colaba 85 Ellora 133 Goa 139 Kerala 163 Cochin (Kochi) 164 Tamil Nadu 221 Karnataka 255

The Heart of India: Delhi, Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh 287 Delhi 288 Agra 321 Fatehpur Sikri 327 Varanasi 333 Khajuraho 351 Rajasthan 373 Jaipur 378 Pushkar 415 Udaipur 421 Himachal Pradesh 461 Uttaranchal 503 East India 521 Kolkata (Calcutta) 522

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Acknowledgments Fact-checking for this update would not have been possible without many painstaking hours put in by Munira Rampurawala. Sincerest thanks also to several individuals who assisted and contributed to updating sections of this book in varying degrees; they are: Abhishek Madhukar (Kerala, Rajasthan, and Varanasi), Munira Rampurawala (Goa and Kumaon), Jayati Vora (dining and nightlife in Mumbai), Yasmin Menon (Chennai and Bangalore), and André Morris (Amritsar and Dharamsala).

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s India, 2nd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

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Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds

Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact

Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids

Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments

Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated

Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips

Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value

Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

V Visa

Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • • • •

Online updates to our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

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ith a booming economy and greatly improved relations with neighboring Pakistan, India’s overseas tourism sector saw a 20% growth in 2004, finally crossing the 3-million-visitor mark. Indeed, if you’re planning a repeat visit to India, you can’t help but notice the changes wrought by the country’s growing affluence, from massive billboards advertising the latest luxury goods and new (smooth!) state highways to the rapidly expanding choices in classy restaurants and chic hotels, aimed as much at the burgeoning domestic market as the overseas sector. But you will see little change on the urban street corners, where beggars still beseech you for handouts, or in rural areas, where grinding poverty continues to plague the vast majority of the population, and at principal tourist destinations, where touts try every trick to part you and your dollar. To this end we have added a few more tips on how to avoid becoming a victim in chapter 2 (and we’ve included more advice on how to avoid getting ripped off in each chapter). Chapter 2 also offers a range of brand-new tips and strategies to help ease your journey through India, including information on how to book a train ticket without problems, how to rent a chauffeured car, and how to hire the services of a travel agent if you need one (and India is one destination where you likely will benefit from a travel agent’s expertise at some stage). An interesting phenomenon further fueling India’s current popularity is what is commonly referred to as “medical tourism.” For the longest time this

meant a week rejuvenating at one of Kerala’s Ayurvedic refuges, but the term now includes travel to India in search of relatively low-cost, world-class medical treatment of visitors with heart conditions, cataracts, and orthopedic problems. You may have heard about the well-publicized case of 14-year-old U.K. resident Elliot Knott, who came to India in 2005 for complex spine surgery because the NHS had asked him to wait 17 weeks to see a consultant and 9 months for surgery! However, we figure that most of you are still coming to India simply to de-stress and revitalize yourselves physically and spiritually. To this end we have increased the amount of information in our section, “Discovering Spiritual India,” in chapter 2. So whether you’re looking to learn more about yoga or meditation or are ready to commit to an ashram, we’ve provided comprehensive suggestions (and cautions). Kerala, of course, remains the haven for Ayurvedic treatments, and never more so than now. Eco-conscious tourism is also emerging as a travel choice in the region, with retreats like Friday’s Place and Malabar House making steps in this direction. We have also focused outside Kerala on accommodations that offer more than a bed; these include Ranjit’s Svaasa in Amritsar, and an overview of the options in Bangalore, where you can choose between pampering in a super-luxury spa or detoxing in an organic healing treatment center. Thankfully, the one area that has seen relatively little change in the last 2 years is prices: In spite of skyrocketing oil costs,

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levels of inflation in India remain—at least for now—relatively low. Although there has been an upward revision of hotel rates (and yes, a handful that actually doubled), hotel room rates have generally increased only marginally, with most mid-range and budget options barely adding a few hundred rupees. Combined with the introduction of a slew of low-cost airlines in the past few years, this will no doubt further ensure that India continues to be a highly affordable destination. Of course, if watching your rupees is not a priority, you will be delighted to know that Aman Resorts, the first word in luxury lodging, has entered India’s topend fray with two new properties: Amani-Khás at Ranthambhore National Park, Rajasthan, is a stylish tented wilderness camp that operates from October to April; while Amanbagh, also in Rajasthan (within striking distance of the city of Jaipur), is a luxurious pink-sandstone resort in a fabulous oasis in the middle of the desert. Both bring Aman’s style of sophisticated indulgence to the continuously expanding possibilities of upmarket accommodations in India. But upmarket additions aren’t all you’ll find added to this second edition. Travelers on a budget will find new mid-range and budget accommodations in every chapter, while those who prefer a more personal immersion in the culture of your destination will enjoy the expanded homestay options, the best of which is Tranquil in northern Kerala. If it’s tranquillity you’re after, we’ve included several new boutique hotels in Goa. Although this small state is still the hippest on the subcontinent, it is at times unbearably busy, so places like Presa di Goa, Panchavatti, and Casa Britona offer a serene environment far from the madding crowds—perfect places in which to unwind, and great value too, of course. Having rejuvenated in paradise,

we recommend an extended trip to Karnataka: To this end we’ve added a section on the magnificent ruins of Badami, Aihole, and Pattadakal and a trip to Bijapur—all within striking distance of the more popular Hampi. Moving north, we were saddened to find Lake Pichola in Udaipur still, at press time, bone-dry—the result of a prolonged drought and unbridled construction in the outlying catchment areas; our fingers are crossed in the hope that a really good monsoon will restore the lake’s placid beauty. But the still-extant beauty of Udaipur’s palaces and outlying rural excursions means that, the state of the lake aside, this remains one of the best destinations in northern India. Just make sure that your hotel choice isn’t based on a lake view, unless, of course, you’ve ascertained that the hoped-for waters have returned. If you simply must have your lakes filled with water, make time to explore the Kumaon Himalayas in Uttaranchal. Known as India’s lake district, Kumaon is much more accessible from Delhi than Himachal Pradesh, and relatively untouched areas like Binsar and Naukuchiatal are perfect for a quiet sojourn, especially for those for whom time is a premium. This is why we’ve expanded the accommodations options here, almost all of which are away from the heavy tourist belts. New accommodations listed in the hills are often family-run and friendly, and offer guests intimate experiences in a homestay setting or on a well-run estate, with personalized hospitality, atmospheric experiences, and a chance to mingle with the Indian families who live in the hills. India is a culinary paradise. This edition has seen a host of local writers researching new ways for visitors to experience all aspects of the cuisine—safely. We have provided literally dozens of new spots at which to sample the myriad

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cuisines of India, many of them alongside locals in unpretentious street outlets. Generally acknowledged as India’s best city for dining, the chapter on Mumbai enjoys an expanded “Where to Dine” section in this guide. In spite of Mumbai’s fantastic seaside location, places that exploit the lovely views are few in existence; here we explore the best opportunities for enjoying superb views of Mumbai’s bay and harbor. We also offer a fully revised section detailing Mumbai’s

happening nightlife, with something to excite every kind of night owl. Nightlife segments in Delhi and Bangalore have also been expanded for party animals wanting to immerse yourselves in modern India. And new shopping options in Pondicherry, Chennai, Goa, and Mumbai may leave the shopaholics among you wishing for more baggage allowance. Furthermore, this edition includes new maps to assist you in exploring this fascinating country. Happy holidays.

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1 The Best of India ndia will humble, awe, frustrate, amaze, and intimidate you—all on the same day. IHome to some of the world’s most spectacular medieval structures and largest slums; sacred rivers and filth-strewn streets; deeply religious ritual and endless traffic jams; aristocratic tigers and low-caste untouchables; jewel-encrusted tombs and pavementbound beggars; ancient traditions and modern-day scams—there is so much to take in. Whether you’re here to soak up India’s spirituality, chill out on the beaches, rejuvenate at an Ayurvedic spa, or live like a king in the land of princes, this chapter will help you experience the very best India has to offer.

1 Experiencing Spiritual India Visiting temples that pulsate with devotion will evoke a sense of the sacred, but in India, where religion is such an integral part of daily life, spiritual experiences occur when you least expect them. • See Things As They Really Are (Vipassana Centers throughout India): Maintaining a strict code of silence with no sensory stimulation for 10 days may sound like a self-induced hell, but after attending a 10-day Vipassana meditation course, most people claim transformation and find the mental training invaluable. And it costs nothing. See chapter 2. • Hop on a Motorbike and Head for the Drumbeat (Goa): Once capital of the global beach party, Goa may be past its prime, but when rumors start that an event is in the making at a tobe-announced venue, keep your ear to the ground. Why? Because only in some deserted clearing near a golden Goan beach can you trance out with the nationals of the world, and find solace in the serenity of a rural villager’s smile as she hands over cups of

soothing chai for the duration of the party. See chapter 5. • Worship the Sunrise as It Touches the Southernmost Tip (Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu): You can’t help but be moved by a sense of the miraculous when a simple daily occurrence is venerated by thousands of pilgrims who plunge themselves into the turbulent swell, believing that the tri-oceanic waters at India’s southernmost tip are holy, while others delight in the glorious spectacle as if it’s a major Bollywood (the nickname for India’s booming film industry) premiere. See chapter 6. • Lose All Sense of Reality in the City of Light (Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh): Drifting at dawn on a boat on the Ganges along Varanasi’s bathing ghats (steps leading down to the river), against a backdrop of 18th- and 19thcentury temples and palaces, you will witness surreal sights—hundreds of pilgrims waist-deep in the Ganges cleansing their souls in its holy waters, while others pound laundry, meditate

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by staring into the sun, or limber up to wrestle. All the while, bodies burn on the sacred banks, thereby achieving moksha—liberation from the eternal cycle of rebirth. See chapter 9. • Purchase a Pushkar Passport (Pushkar, Rajasthan): As you wander around the ghats of Pushkar, the beautifully serene temple town on the edge of the Thar Desert, you will almost certainly be approached by a Brahmin priest to offer puja (prayers) at the sacred lake. In exchange for a “donation,” he will tie a red thread around your wrist—the “passport” you can brandish at the next priest who approaches. This is the commercial side of India’s spirituality, and one you need to be aware of. See chapter 10. • Make a Wish at the Tomb of a Sufi Saint (Ajmer, Rajasthan): The great Sufi saint Khwaja Moin-ud-Din Chisti was known as “the protector of the poor,” and his tomb is said to possess the power to grant the wishes of all those who visit. His Dargah Sharif is the most sacred Islamic shrine in India, second in importance only to Mecca but frequented by Hindus and Muslims alike. The atmosphere of pure devotion is both ancient and surreal; some pray fervently, and others tie threads onto the latticework while supplicating the saint to fulfill their wish, while throughout these activities, the qawwali singers seated in front of the tomb repeat the same beautiful, haunting melodies that have been sung for centuries. See chapter 10. • Carry the Holy Granth Sahib to its Evening Resting Place (Amritsar, Punjab): In Sikh temples, the Granth Sahib—Holy Book of the Sikhs—is an object of devotion in its own right, and nowhere is this more evocative

than at the Golden Temple, the most tangibly spiritual destination in the country. In the evenings men line up to carry the precious Granth Sahib from its golden sanctuary at the center of the Amrit Sarovar (Pool of Nectar), crossing Guru’s Bridge, which symbolizes the journey of the soul after death, to Akal Takht, where the Holy Book rests for the night. You can take part in this ceremony by joining the line that forms behind and ahead of the heavy palanquin. Being part of this ancient tradition is a deeply moving experience and indicative of the embracing atmosphere you’ll find in Sikh temples throughout India. See chapter 11. • Look into the Eyes of the Dalai Lama (Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh): There’s a good chance you’ll meet the Dalai Lama in person if you visit Dharamsala, home to the exiled Tibetan government, which fled its homeland in 1959. Arranging a private audience isn’t easy (unless you’re Richard Gere), but if you attend one of his public appearances, you will— like everyone else in the audience— receive a personal blessing. And whatever your convictions, when you look into the eyes of His Holiness, you know you are in the presence of pure energy. See chapter 11. • Witness a Thousand Prayers Take Flight on the Wind (Leh, Ladakh): Take the overland journey from Manali to Leh and enter the stark world of the Trans-Himalayas—a breathtakingly beautiful yet desolate lunarlike landscape, with arid peaks and ancient Buddhist monasteries perched on rocky crags. Here prayer flags flutter against an impossibly blue sky, sending their silent prayers to the heavens. See chapter 11.

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2 The Best Temples, Monuments & Lost Cities • Cave Temples at Ajanta & Ellora (Aurangabad, Maharashtra): Fashioned out of rock by little more than simple hand-held tools, the cave temples at Ajanta (created by Buddhist monks between the 2nd and 7th c.) and Ellora (a marriage of Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain temples, created between the 4th and 9th c.) are the finest examples of rock-cut architecture in India, and deserving of their World Heritage status. The zenith is Kailashnath Temple, effectively a mountain whittled down to a free-standing temple. See “Aurangabad & the Ellora and Ajanta Caves” in chapter 4. • Lord Gomateswara Monolith (Sravanabelagola, Karnataka): One of the oldest (ca. A.D. 918) and most important Jain pilgrimage sites, this 18m (60-ft.) statue of the naked Lord Gomateswara—a representation of Bahubali, son of the first Jain tirthankara, said to have sought enlightenment by standing naked and motionless for an entire year—is the tallest monolithic statue on Earth. See “Exploring the Hoysala Heartland: Belur, Halebid & Sravanabelagola” in chapter 8. • Hampi (Karnataka): Scattered among the Henri Moore–like boulders in the heart of Karnataka’s rural interior, Hampi was once the royal seat of the powerful Vijayanagar kingdom, its size and wealth drawing comparisons with imperial Rome. Today, the city has crumbled away to a few starkly beautiful leftovers, but the remote setting couldn’t be more romantic. See “Hampi & the Ruined City of Vijayanagar” in chapter 8. • The Temples of Mamallapuram (Tamil Nadu): A visit to this oncethriving port city of the Pallava dynasty, who ruled much of South

India between the 4th and 9th centuries A.D., is an essential stop on Tamil Nadu’s temple tour. The earliest examples of monumental architecture in southern India (the celebrated Arjuna’s Penance is the largest relief-carving on earth), these rock-cut shrines are best explored in the morning, leaving you time to unwind on the pleasant beach and dine on succulent seafood at village cafes for a song. See “Mamallapuram (Mahabalipurum)” in chapter 7. • Shri Meenakshi-Sundareshwarar Temple (Madurai, Tamil Nadu): Alive with prayers, processions, garland-makers, and joyous devotees who celebrate the mythological romance between the beautiful threebreasted goddess and her mighty Lord Shiva, this colorful and lively complex of shrines, halls, and market stalls is almost Disneyesque, marked as it is by numerous entrance towers tangled with colorful stucco gods, demons, beasts, and mythological heroes. It truly embodies the spirit of Tamil Nadu’s deeply embedded temple culture. See “Madurai” in chapter 7. • Taj Mahal (Agra, Uttar Pradesh): Nothing can prepare you for the beauty of the Taj. The perfect symmetry, the ethereal luminescence, the wonderful proportions, the sheer scale—virtually impossible to imagine from staring at its oft-reproduced image—and the exquisite detailing make this bejeweled monument to love a justifiable wonder of the world. See “Agra” in chapter 9. • Fatehpur Sikri (near Agra, Uttar Pradesh): From the intricacy of the glittering white marble screens that surround the dargah (tomb) of Salim Chisti, to Parcheesi Court, where the emperor played a ludo-like game

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using the ladies of his harem as live pieces, this magnificent ghost city— built almost entirely from red sandstone in 1571 and deserted only 14 years later—is a testament to the secular vision of Akbar, one of the great players in India’s most dynamic dynasty. See “Agra” in chapter 9. • The Temples of Khajuraho (Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh): Built between the 10th and 12th centuries by the Chandela Rajputs, these World Heritage Site monuments are most famous for the erotic sculptures that writhe across the interiors and exteriors. But even the temple designs— their soaring shikharas (spires) serving as metaphoric “stairways to heaven”— are striking, and are considered the apotheosis of medieval Hindu architecture. See “Khajuraho” in chapter 9. • Mehrangarh Fort (Jodhpur, Rajasthan): The impenetrable walls of this 15th-century edifice to Rajput valor rise seamlessly from the rocky outcrop on which they were built, literally dwarfing the labyrinthine city at its base; from its crenelated ramparts you enjoy postcard views of the “Blue City” below. In the distance is the grand silhouette of Umaid Bhawan Palace, heritage hotel and residence of the current Maharaja. Within the fort is one of the best palace museums in India. See “Jodhpur” in chapter 10. • Jain Temples of Rajasthan & Gujarat (Ranakpur and Mount Abu, near Udaipur, Rajasthan, and Palitana, Gujarat): The Jains put all their devotional passion (and not inconsiderable wealth) into the creation of the most ornate marble temples; with exquisitely detailed relief carvings covering every inch, they are all jawdroppingly beautiful. Make sure you visit at least one while you’re in India, preferably either Ranakpur Temple or Dilwara Temple in Rajasthan. Or head for Palitana, in Gujarat, where

850 Jain temples and 1,000 shrines top sacred Mount Satrunjaya, “the hill that conquers enemies.” See chapter 10. • Golden Temple (Amritsar, Punjab): Arguably the greatest spiritual monument in India. The name derives from the central gold-plated Hari Mandir— the inner sanctuary featuring goldplated copper cupolas and white marble walls inlaid with precious stones—which sits at the center of the “Pool of Nectar.” Every day thousands of disciplined devotees pay their respects, touching their heads to the glistening marble floor while singing devotional songs continuously—a wonderful, welcoming, and humbling experience. See “The Golden Temple in Amritsar” in chapter 11. • Tabo (Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh): This 1,005-year-old Buddhist complex houses magnificent frescoes and brilliant stucco and relief figures that recount ancient myths and celebrate the deities and demons that make up the Buddhist pantheon. You’ll need a flashlight to adequately explore the dark, smoldering halls and shrines lit only by thin shafts of natural light, and brought to life by the resonant chants and ringing of bells by the monks and nuns who populate this sacred center of Tibetan Buddhism. See “Exploring Kinnaur & Spiti” in chapter 11. • The Sun Temple at Konark (near Bhubaneswar, Orissa): An enormous war chariot carved from a massive chunk of rock during the 13th century, this masterpiece of Indian temple art is covered with detailed sculpted scenes, from the erotic to the mythological. Guarded by stone elephants and lions, the immense structure is seen as the gigantic chariot of the sun god emerging from the ocean, not far from Orissa’s 500km (300-mile) beach. See “Orissa’s Golden Temple Triangle” in chapter 13.

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3 Unique Places to Stay Not surprisingly, most of these are in Rajasthan, which has almost 80 heritage properties—castles, palaces, forts, and ornate havelis (traditional mansions), now hotels offering varying degrees of comfort. • Taj Mahal Hotel (Mumbai): George Bernard Shaw famously claimed that after staying here, he no longer had any need to visit the real Taj Mahal in Agra. Built just over a century ago by an Indian industrialist, the Taj hosts the world’s rich and famous and remains the most celebrated address in Mumbai. See p. 103. • Nilaya Hermitage (Goa): Parisian fashion stylist Claudia Derain and her husband, Hari Ajwani, came to Goa on vacation and—like so many— never left. Together with Goan architect Dean D’Cruz, they’ve created an Arabian Nights fantasy, with only 12 “cosmic-themed” guest suites and gorgeously informal public spaces overlooking paddy fields and coconutpalm groves. Despite being 6km (4 miles) from the nearest beach, Nilaya is one of Goa’s most perfect getaways. See p. 149. • Surya Samudra Beach Garden (near Kovalam, Kerala): A small collection of traditional cottages on a terraced hillside overlooking the sea, with direct access to two picture-perfect beaches, Surya Samudra is quite simply the most Paradisiacal destination on the Malabar coast. Gazing over the Arabian Sea from your private deck (ask for a cottage near the beach), you will no doubt wish you’d spent your entire vacation here. See p. 203. • Tranquil Resorts (Wyanad, Northern Kerala): Experiencing life on a 162-hectare (400-acre) working coffee and vanilla plantation at the edge of Wyanad National Park with hosts

Victor and Ranjini Dey is like being at a grand coffee-planter’s private house party where you are the guest of honor. This has got to be the warmest, most wonderful homestay in all of India. See p. 216. • Amarvilas (Agra, Uttar Pradesh): If you’ve always dreamed of seeing the Taj Mahal, this is the place to celebrate that achievement. Built within the green belt that surrounds the monument, you can literally see the Taj from your bed, but you’ll probably spend just as much time gazing at your immediate surroundings. With its huge reflecting pools, colonnaded courts, terraced lawns, inlaid murals, and pillowed pavilions, this palatial hotel is worth every cent. See p. 328. • Rajvilas (near Jaipur, Rajasthan): This is arguably the best of the Oberoi’s flagship Vilas properties. Built like a traditional fortified Rajasthani palace, Rajvilas may not have the history of an authentic heritage hotel, but it offers a level of comfort, luxury, and service other properties cannot match, enabling even the most world-weary guest (Bill Clinton loved it) to “live in the princely style of Rajasthan.” See p. 390. • Aman-i-Khás (Ranthambhore, Rajasthan): Located a stone’s throw from India’s most famous tiger sanctuary, the superb accommodations—huge temperature-controlled Mughal-style royal tents stylishly divided by cool white drapes—and impeccable service are distinctly Aman. At night, lanterns light your way to the giant flaming uruli (large metal vessel) around which guests gather to enjoy the night sky and the ethereal calm, broken only by the occasional call from the wilds. See p. 403.

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• Deogarh Mahal & Rawla Narlai (Rural Rajasthan): An ornate 17thcentury fort-palace with domed turrets and balconies, personally managed by the charming Thakur of Deogarh, Deogarh Mahal is one of the most authentic and best-value heritage hotels in Rajasthan, best visited on a road trip between Jaipur and Udaipur. Book the aptly named “Royal” suite, and it’s not hard to feel that all you survey from your private balcony is yours. Rawla Narlai, the 17th-century hunting retreat of the Maharajah of Jodphur, is another rural gem that will have you feeling like a royal guest—and it’s the ideal stopover if you’re traveling between Udaipur and Jodhpur. You’ll stay for one night and wish you’d planned for three. See p. 439 and 440. • Lake Palace Hotel (Udaipur, Rajasthan): Built on an island by the Maharana in 1740 as a cool summer retreat (swimming distance from his palace), this is perhaps the most romantic—certainly the most photographed—hotel in India. Whizzing across the waters to your private palace, you’ll feel you’ve finally arrived—and if you’ve booked one of the heritage suites, you have. Floating like a beautiful white ship on the waters of Lake Pichola, the hotel offers good service, comfortable lodging, and picture-perfect 360-degree views—though it must be noted that a severe drought has currently left the palace somewhat grounded at press time. See p. 435. • Kankarwa (Udaipur, Rajasthan): A short stroll from the City Palace, this ancient haveli right on the shores of Lake Pichola is the best budget heritage option in Rajasthan. Run by a family who have resided here for 200 years, rooms cost just Rs 1,200 to Rs 1,650 ($28–$38). Book room no.

204—a cool, whitewashed room with white bedding, perfectly offset by two touches of color: the blue waters of the lake reflected outside the jarokha (window seat), and a red lamp indoors. See p. 436. • Devi Garh (near Udaipur, Rajasthan): If you’re a modern-design enthusiast, this hotel will blow you away. An 18th-century Rajput palace-fort, its formidable exterior, towering over the tiny village at its base, remains unchanged. But step inside and you’ll find a totally reinvented minimalist interior, with 14 floors transformed into 23 chic suites (with 18 more opening soon) that have clearly utilized the talents of the best young Indian designers—all of whom laid to rest the perception that design here reached its apotheosis with the Mughals. It’s an unparalleled modern Indian masterpiece, and a destination in its own right. See p. 438. • Amanbagh (Ajabgarh, Rajasthan): Fringed with date palms and mango and jamun trees, Aman’s shimmering new pink-sandstone resort is the oasis you have always wanted to stumble upon while traversing the Thar Desert. Begin your day sipping rubyred pomegranate juice on your private porch, then hike to ancient Somsagar Lake or explore the haunted ruins at Bhangarh. Or go nowhere but the pool pavilion on the edge of the palmlined canal and listen to the joyful twittering of birds. See p. 389. • Killa Bhawan (Jaisalmer, Rajasthan): Built entirely from yellow sandstone, Sonar Qila (Golden Fort) rises like a giant sandcastle from its desert surrounds—this is the world’s only living medieval fort, inhabited by families who have been here for more than 8 centuries. Within the ramparts, Killa Bhawan is a charming seven-room guesthouse with rather basic facilities

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(only two rooms are en-suite) but lovely furnishings and stunning views, best enjoyed from the rooftop, which is comfortably furnished with mattresses and bolsters. See p. 453. • Gangeshwari Suite at The Glasshouse on the Ganges (Garhwal, Uttaranchal): Just steps away from the raging Ganges River, this thoroughly inventive suite oozes style. The

immaculately laid-out sleeping area has a four-poster canopy bed and antique furniture, while the alfresco bathroom features a tub carved into the rock, with greenery spilling down the walls. You can relax on your private balcony and watch India’s holiest river gushing by, or head for a hammock strung between the mango, lychee, and citrus trees. See p. 507.

4 Most Memorable Moments • Sharing a Cup of Chai with a Perfect Stranger: You will typically be asked to sit and share a cup of chai (tea) a dozen times a day, usually by merchants keen to keep you browsing. Although you may at first be nervous of what this may entail, don’t hesitate to accept when you’re feeling more comfortable, for while sipping the milky sweet brew (often flavored with ginger and cardamom), conversation will flow, and you might find yourself discussing anything from women’s rights in India to the individualism that mars Western society. • Helping Lord Venkateshwara Repay His Debt to the God of Wealth (Tirupati, Andhra Pradesh): Tirupati, the richest temple in India, is the most active religious pilgrimage destination on earth, drawing more than 10 million devoted pilgrims every year (more than either Jerusalem or Rome!) who line up for hours, even days, to see the diamond-decorated black stone idol Lord Venkateshwara (aka Vishnu) for just a few seconds. Afterward, you stare in disbelief as vast piles of cash and other contributions are counted by scores of clerks behind a wall of glass. See chapter 7. • Watching the Moon Rise from Pushkar Palace during the Pushkar Mela (Pushkar, Rajasthan): The sunset is a spectacular sight on any given evening, but on the evening of the full

moon during the Pushkar mela, hundreds of Hindu pilgrims, accompanied by temple bells and drums, wade into a sacred lake—believed to miraculously cleanse the soul—before lighting clay lamps and setting them afloat on its holy waters, the twinkling lights a surreal reflection of the desert night sky. If you’re lucky enough to have bagged a room at Pushkar Palace, you can watch this ancient ritual from a deck chair on the terrace on the banks of the lake. See chapter 10. • Gawking & Being Gawked At (Dungarpur, near Udaipur, Rajasthan): As a foreigner, you may attract uncomfortably long stares (particularly on public transport), but there are a few moments that you will recall with a wry smile, like the gimlet eye of the toothless old royal retainer as he watches your reaction to the explicit Kama Sutra paintings he will reveal hidden in a cupboard of Dungarpur’s 13th-century Juna Mahal—one of the Rajasthan’s undiscovered gems. See chapter 10. • Playing Chicken with a Tata Truck: The rules of the road (which is almost always single-laned, potholed, and unmarked) are hard to understand, but it would seem that (after the cow, which is of course sacred) Tata trucks, all with HORN ON PLEASE written on their bumpers, rule the road, an assumption your hired driver is likely

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to test—and you will, more than once, find yourself involuntarily closing your eyes as destiny appears to race toward you, blaring its horn. • Meeting a Maharaja (Rajasthan): India must be the only place in the world where you can, armed with a credit card, find yourself sleeping in a king’s bed, having dined with the aristocrat whose forebears built, and quite often died for, the castle or palace walls that surround it. While most heritage properties are still owned by India’s oldest monarchies, many of whom live there, only some (like Mandawa Castle and Deogarh Mahal in Rajasthan, and Nilambagh Palace in Gujarat) are personally managed by these urbane aristocrats. See chapter 10. • Unraveling the Intricacies of Hinduism (Master Paying Guest House, Delhi): Staying here is not only the best-value deal in town, but the sophisticated, charming, and extremely knowledgeable Avnish Puri will take you on a “Hidden Delhi” tour, showing you a world not seen by many outsiders, during which he will unravel Hinduism’s spiritual tenets in

a profoundly logical way—no mean feat! See chapter 9. • Being Blessed by an Elephant: While you may expect to see an elephant in a national park, it’s always a wonderful surprise when you see one ambling down a crowded street in urban Mumbai or Delhi. Outside Thirupparankundram Temple, near Madurai, the resident temple elephant waits patiently to bestow blessings on those willing to donate a rupee. • Setting a Candle Adrift on the Sacred Ganges (Rishikesh, Uttaranchal): By day, Rishikesh is a spiritual Disneyland, where the commercial excesses of packaged meditation and two-for-one tantric yoga hang heavily about the concrete ashrams, bedecked with gaudy statues of Vishnu and Shiva. But at night, to the accompaniment of hypnotic prayers and harmonious singing, the town undergoes a magical transformation, when thousands of golden marigolds and devotional candles mounted on banana leaves are set adrift on the river, a gloriously simple spectacle that reminds all that this really is a spiritual retreat. See chapter 12.

5 Exploring Natural India • Watch Cows Sunbathing with Tourists on the Beach (Goa): While there’s plenty of marijuana doing the rounds in Goa, you don’t have to smoke a thing to be amused by the mellow cows that wander onto the beach and chill out among the tanning tourists and hawkers. Chewing their cud while seemingly gazing out to sea, these cows really take the Goan motto, “Sossegade” (“Take it easy”), to heart. See chapter 5. • Ply the Backwaters on a Kettuvallam (Alleppey & Kumarakom, Kerala): Aboard your private houseboat, you aimlessly drift past villages,

temples, and churches, watching as village children, unperturbed by your drifting presence, play at the water’s edge, and elephants and water buffalo wade at will. Though the facilities might strike the well-heeled as basic, you’re looked after by a private team (guide, cook, and pilot) who manage to be both discreetly invisible and at your beck and call. See chapter 6. • Quench Your Thirst with Fresh Coconut Water on a Tropical Island (Lakshadweep): One of India’s bestkept secrets, the 36 atolls and coral reefs that make up the remote union territory of Lakshadweep are rated

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among the best diving destinations in Asia. Only 10 of the islands are populated, almost exclusively by Malayalam-speaking Muslims who make their living from fishing and harvesting coconuts. These relaxed islanders are supremely welcoming, happily climbing a towering coconut tree to help you quench your thirst. See chapter 6. • Wake to Hear a Herd of Elephants Approaching (Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, Kerala): The best way to experience this park—famous for its herds of wild elephants—is on a trek with the privately run Periyar Tiger Trail. Accompanied by a naturalist and a game ranger armed with a rifle, you are taken farther into the tourist zone than any other operator is allowed to penetrate. What’s more, you are looked after by a team of reformed poachers, who skillfully track and spot animals, carry all the gear, strike camp, cook, clean, and—most importantly—stand sentinel throughout the night when the danger of being trampled by elephants becomes a serious risk. See chapter 6. • Immortalize a Wild Tiger from the Back of an Elephant (Bandhavgarh National Park, Madhya Pradesh): With the densest population of tigers of any park in India, you are practically guaranteed a sighting at this relatively low-key, remote part of Madhya Pradesh. But it’s the approach that’s so exciting—elephant mahouts set off at dawn to track the royal cats. As soon as they’ve spotted one, you rendezvous with your pachyderm, who then takes you within striking distance of this most royal of cats. The tiger—unperturbed by the presence of an elephant—will then strike a pose of utter indifference for your camera. See chapter 9. • Pick a Picture-Perfect Beach (Goa, Kerala): India has some of the world’s best beaches, most of them on the

Malabar Coast. Easily accessed, Asvem (northern Goa) is an idyllic haven, while just south of Goa, Morjim has been drawing Olive Ridley turtles to its shores for centuries. Both beaches are off the well-beaten tourist track. Palolem (southern Goa), a gorgeous crescent of sand backed by coconut palms and a handful of laid-back shacks where you can feast on fresh fish and bottles of cold beer, is another of India’s loveliest beaches. From here, time allowing, you should head over the border to beautiful and remote Om Beach (Gokam, Karnataka). In Kerala, the competition is equally stiff, but we award the picture-perfect prize to the beaches at Marari and Surya Samudra resorts. The absolute stunners, if you can get that far, are at Bangaram and Agatti, in Lakshadweep. See chapters 5 and 6. • Find Divinity in Devbhumi, “Land of the Gods” (Spiti to Kinnaur, Himachal Pradesh): The stark, rustcolored, snowcapped slopes in the Indo-Tibetan regions of Kinnaur, Spiti, and Lahaul are the stuff adventurers’ dreams are made of, offering sublime mountainscapes, flower-filled valleys, terrifying roads, atmospheric Tibetan Buddhist gompas (monasteries), and high-altitude villages that seem to cling to the mountainsides. The region is one of the most profoundly beautiful in the world, but the drive is not for the fainthearted. See chapter 11. • Get a Rush While Rafting Down the Zanskar (Ladakh): White-water rafting on the Zanskar is not only exhilarating and challenging, but you pass through the most incredibly desolate, scenic gorges and stupendous cliffs. A full river journey takes at least 12 days round-trip from Leh, so this is only for the truly committed—though there are slightly tamer options closer to Leh. See chapter 11.

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6 The Best Ayurvedic Pampering • Pousada Tauma (Goa): Loved by top Indian director Mira Nair as well as jetsetting French designer Michéle Klein, this intimate 12-suite resort, fashioned entirely from distinctively Goan laterite stone, offers a small, exclusive Ayurvedic center—the ideal place to finish off a day spent on the beach, with a professional doctor, two excellent treatment rooms, and an exhaustive range of Ayurvedic packages. An excellent in-house restaurant offers tailor-made Ayurvedic meals. See p. 150. • The Marari Beach (Alleppey, Kerala): Ayurveda is taken very seriously at this attractive beach resort in South India, not far from Kerala’s tantalizing backwaters. The well-stocked Ayurvedic center is run by two physicians, who dispense sound medical advice as well as treatments, and your program is backed up with special Ayurvedic meals at the resort’s restaurant. Or forgo the rules and just head for the beach, cocktail in hand. See p. 188. • Kumarakom Lake Resort (Kumarakom, Kerala): The swankiest of Kumarakom’s retreats, this has an extensive Ayurvedic spa—one of Kerala’s most sophisticated, catering primarily to the well-heeled globetrotter—but there’s more besides, like the exquisite, traditionally styled teak-and-rosewood houses with open-air garden bathrooms, a fabulous restaurant, and superslick service. See p. 184. • Somatheeram (Southern Kerala): This shabby-chic center, carved out of red sandy soil and perched on a terraced cliff overlooking a beach, is more hospital than hotel, but it has been inundated with awards for “Best Ayurvedic Center” (mostly from Kerala’s Tourism Department). Ayurvedic therapy is the primary reason to book here, joining the many European “patients” who shuffle

around in pastel dressing gowns, serene expressions on their tanned faces. See p. 202. • Poovar Island Resort (Southern Kerala): It’s the location as much as anything that sets this stylish resort apart. Set amid dense coconut groves and banana trees, this island resort is only accessible by boat, and you can elect to stay on a floating cottage built of Malaysian teak and coconut timber. There’s not much to do but idle away your time watching fishermen from your private veranda or pool, and entrust yourself to the staff of the excellent bamboo-walled Ayurvedic center: two doctors and a handful of top-notch, no-nonsense masseurs. See p. 201. • Shalimar Spice Garden Resort (Kerala): Not far from Periyar Tiger Reserve, this lovely inland resort occupies a 2.4-hectare (6-acre) plantation scented by exotic spices. Over and above the enchanting Euro-chic accommodations designed by Italian owner-architect Maria Angela Fernhof is an intimate Ayurvedic center drawing a regular European clientele. Built according to traditional specifications, with a stone floor, handmade brick walls, and an open fire for heating the medicated oils, the small space is always filled with the aroma of coconut oil. See p. 210. • Wildflower Hall, Mashobra (near Shimla, Himachal Pradesh): The pièce de résistance at what once was the mountain retreat of Lord Kitchener and is today the most beautiful resort in the Himalayas is the spa—not only because the highly trained therapists offer the ultimate rubdown (Balinese, Thai, Swedish, Ayurvedic—and that’s just for starters), but because it takes place while you stare out blissfully at snowcapped peaks and a magnificent

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deodar valley, swirling with mists. See p. 474. • Ananda-in-the-Himalayas (near Rishikesh, Uttaranchal): The 1,951sq.-m (21,000-sq.-ft.) Wellness Center at this destination spa resort, located high above the Ganges, is rated one of the best in the world. This reputation is well-earned— thanks not only to its ultra-efficient

team of therapists, masseuses, and yoga instructors, but also because you are totally pampered from the moment you wake (to a steaming cup of honey, lemon, and ginger) until you retire to a bath (where a pre-lit candle heats fragrant essential oils) and a bed (warmed by a hot-water bottle). See p. 507.

7 The Best Eating & Drinking Experiences • Bumping into a Bollywood Idol (Mumbai): Nowhere in India is dining more rewarding than in Mumbai, where the streets are filled with literally thousands of restaurants representing every kind of Indian cuisine. But if it’s star-gazing you’re after, head for places like the Olive Bar and Kitchen restaurant in Bandra or Enigma nightclub in Juhu. Alternatively, hang out at Leopold Café; casting agents looking for foreigners to work as extras frequently scan the clientele at this favored travelers’ hangout. See chapter 4. • Eating Alphonso Mangoes in Mumbai: You may have eaten mangoes in Mexico, Thailand, or even other parts of India, but until you’ve had an Alphonso from Ratnagiri in rural Maharashtra, you’ll be missing a sensory experience like no other. The king of mangoes has a succulent bright orange pulp, bewitching scent, and divine flavor. See chapter 4. • Dining with Ancient Delhi at Your Feet (Delhi, Uttar Pradesh): Head for Thai Wok, the designer-chic rooftop restaurant with great views of ancient Qutb Minar—the sandstone Victory Tower built by Qutbuddin Aibak in 1193. Reached via an ancient elevator and a short set of stairs, the artful alfresco setting includes a walled area with cushioned seating under windblown canopies; reserve well ahead to

sit here. Seafood dishes are exceptional; try red snapper in chili-sour sauce, or prawns stir-fried with fresh green chilies and sweet basil. See p. 312. • Eating with Your Hands: Though it may initially go against the grain, there’s something immensely rewarding about digging into a delicious meal with your hands. Indians generally do, and—at least once—you should follow suit. Note that ideally you only use your right hand, and in the North, where the food is “drier,” you are traditionally not supposed to dirty more than the first two digits; in the South you may use the whole hand. See the appendix, “India in Depth.” • Sipping a Sweet Lassi: A delicious drink of liquefied sweetened yogurt, this is almost a meal in a glass and should definitely be sampled (some of the best we’ve tried were in Amritsar, Goa, and Jaipur). Do, however, make sure that no water has been added (including ice), and beware the bhang lassi—spiced with marijuana, it can make the usually surreal scenes of India a little too out of this world. • Sitting Around a Bonfire under a Desert Sky (Rajasthan): There’s nothing quite like eating a superb meal around a raging campfire in the peace of the desert night. Camel and horseback safaris are run out of Shekhawati, Bikaner, Pushkar, and Jaisalmer. If you opt for the latter,

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Royal Desert Safaris has a permanent tented camp with en-suite tents near Sam Dunes, run by Fort Rajwada, with food supplied by the team of chefs that cooks up a storm at Trio, Jaisalmer’s best restaurant. See chapter 10. • Sampling Bod-Jha, Tibetan Butter Tea, with a Buddhist Lama (Leh, Ladakh): Many people gag at the taste

of butter tea, made with salt and— you guessed it—a good dollop of the clarified butter known as ghee. It’s an acquired taste, but if you get the hang of it, sipping the buttery concoction with a friendly Buddhist monk when you visit one of the many monasteries tucked in the lunar landscapes around Leh is a truly memorable experience. See chapter 11.

8 The Best Savvy Traveler Tips • “You pay what you like”: This rather annoying response from guides, drivers, and rickshaw-wallas to the question “How much will it cost?” will no doubt end with at least one of you feeling very disappointed. Try to find out how much something should cost before you enter into this dialogue (we’ve tried to advise this wherever possible), and always negotiate the fare or rate upfront. (Note that “I come later” is another irritating response, this time after you decline service, and you will need to remain firm or prepare to go through the entire experience again.) • “Just look, no buy”: You will be urged to enter shops from all corners in both explicit and less obvious ways—your driver, guide, even the seemingly innocent bystander offering assistance, are almost all operating on the ubiquitous commission system, and whatever they make on the deal is added to the quoted price. Note that to avoid this kind of hassle, look for the fixed-rate shops or those that mark their wares with prices. But as is the case everywhere, do beware of closely named imitations of fixed-rate shops with good reputations—for example, Cottage Industries Exposition shops, often marked CIE, are seriously overpriced outlets that cash in on the fame (and closely related name) of the government-owned

Central Cottage Industries Emporiums. The latter may not be the cheapest, but it offers good value, and you really can “just look, no buy.” • “We look; we look”: This response from a rickshaw-walla or driver usually means that the person either doesn’t know where you’ve asked him to take you, or you’ll end up somewhere with a similar name but nothing else to recommend it (Hotel Chandra, for example, rather than Hotel Chand). Prebook your accommodations whenever you can, so that you don’t have to deal with touts and hawkers when you arrive. And be aware that a hotel or guesthouse that is successful will often have a rival opening within the year with a confusingly similar name. • “So where are you from, good gentleman?” (or more commonly, “Coming from?”): You will be asked this often, so prepare yourself. One of the possible reasons Indians kick-start conversations this way is that where you come from may in the past have indicated caste or social position; whatever the reason, engage in the opener—it’s far preferable to living in a five-star hotel cocoon. • “Hashish, taxi, guide, young girls?”: In the well-traveled parts of India, you will be inundated with offers of assistance; again, the best response is to doggedly desist in what is essentially a game of endurance,

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and certainly ignore those unsolicited offers that are illicit—these can carry a hefty penalty, including a lengthy jail sentence. • “Cof-fay, chai; cof-fay, chai; cof-fay, chai?”: This incessant call given by the chai-walla wandering the corridors of your train will put to rest any romantic notions about the relaxation of train travel. Note that you will be most comfortable aboard the overnight Rajdhanis which connect all the major cities, while the best daytime trains are the Shatabdis (book Chair Class). Time allowing, you should definitely book a “toy train” to the hill stations of Shimla or Darjeeling—the latter approach is so spectacular it has been named a World Heritage Site. • “Yes, Madam”; “Yes, Sir”: You will hear this everywhere, usually from hawkers wanting to draw your attention and con artists wanting to

strike up a conversation. Unfortunately, the only way to get rid of these irritants is to completely ignore them. In places like Varanasi, even saying “no” is perceived as a willingness to interact, and your pursuer will then continue to try to draw you into conversation. Just pretend you can’t be bothered, and hopefully, in a little while, you won’t. • “You wait, no problem”: Finally, we can’t emphasize enough how important it is to simply relax and accept whatever’s going on around you. Many Indians subscribe to the philosophy that life is destiny, and getting uptight or flying into a rage usually won’t solve much. You’ll have a far better vacation if you simply give in to the moment and enjoy the experience; after all, the only aspect you have control over is your response.

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nce the playing fields of only die-hard budget New Age travelers, India has in the past decade come into its own for top-end travelers who want to be pampered and rejuvenated as well as spiritually and culturally challenged. Given its vast size, the majority of India’s top attractions are remarkably easy to get to, using a clever combination of internal flights or long-haul train journeys and chauffeur-driven cars (no sane traveler would self-drive). Hotels, particularly in the heritage category, offer excellent value-formoney in Western terms, and despite a number of potential health concerns, sensible travelers will enjoy their sojourn with little more than a brief tummy upset. It is, however, very important to plot out your itinerary and make reservations well in advance. Finally, though India has definite Third World elements—infrastructure and service levels leave much to be desired—you’ll find almost everything you need here, particularly if you’re armed with a credit card and Frommer’s India, 2nd edition, of course.

1 The Regions in Brief India is a vast country, roughly divided— for the purposes of this book—into North, East, and South. The South (again, for the purposes of this book), accessed most conveniently via Mumbai (state capital of Maharashtra), refers to Goa, Karnataka (with an excursion to Hyderabad, capital of Andhra Pradesh), Kerala, and Tamil Nadu. The North refers to Rajasthan (and its southern neighbor Gujarat); west of this area; Delhi; and Uttar Pradesh; with Madhya Pradesh in the center (only Bodhgaya in Bihar is covered in brief ). Northeast of Delhi lie the largely unvisited states of Haryana and Punjab (with the exception of the Golden Temple at Amritsar, one of India’s most wonderful attractions), and—moving even farther north—Uttaranchal and Himachal Pradesh (with references to Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir) in the Himalayas. The East refers to Jharkhand (not a tourist destination), West Bengal (centered

around Kolkata, or Calcutta), Orissa (with top attraction Konark) and, moving north into the Himalayas again, Sikkim. Seven more states lie farther east (north and east of Bangladesh); their infrastructure is virtually nonexistent. Because travel in these areas is considered less than safe, they are not covered here. The largest differences lie between the northern and southern regions. The former offers predominantly a plethora of medieval Mughal and Rajput architecture, ancient cities, deserts, camel safaris, heritage accommodations, tiger parks, Buddhism, and the snowcapped peaks of the Himalayas. The latter is rich with beautiful beaches, Ayurvedic spas, ancient Dravidian/Hindu temples, cosmopolitan colonial coastal towns, and a generally more laid-back atmosphere. We suggest that rather than try to cover both the North and the South, concentrate your energies on one. If you do decide to combine the two, stick to two states, or

UZB.

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TRIPURA

Paradip

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NAGALAND

Mandalay

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DELHI

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Jaisalmer

Bikaner

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PAKISTAN

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Diu

15˚

MALDIVES

Cochin Cochin (Kochi)

75˚

PONDICHERRY Cuddalore

L a c c a d i ve Se a

Kovalam

Trincomalee

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Colombo

Tuticorin Gulf of Mannar

Paradip

Puri

Bhubaneswar

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KERALA

State Capital

State Boundary

National Capital

International Boundary

Aizawl

90˚

Prome

15˚

NICOBAR ISLANDS

Andaman Sea

Port Blair

Bassein

ANDAMAN AND NICOBAR ISLANDS

ANDAMAN ISLANDS

Mandalay

Rangoon

MIZORAM

Akyab

Cox's Bazar

Ba y o f B e n g a l

INDIAN OCEAN

Kakinada PONDICHERRY

PONDICHERRY TAMIL Thanjavur t NADU trai

Coimbatore

Pondicherry

Chennai (Madras)

Tirupati

S PERIYAR alk WILDLIFE Madurai P Jaffna SANCTUARY

KERALA

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

LAKSHADWEEP

Kavaratti Kavaratti

Calicut

Guntakal

ORISSA

Balasore Cuttack Ma han adi

TRIPURA

Haldia Mouths of the Ganges

Khulna

Dhaka

IND

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Mysore

Bangalore

KARNATAKA

Hospet

Hampi

Hyderabad

ANDHRA PRADESH

Raipur

Kolkata

WEST BENGAL

Jamshedpur (Calcutta)

Ranchi

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DADRA AND NAGAR HAVELI

MAHARASHTRA

Nagpur

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Indore

Bhopal

MADHYA PRADESH

Silvassa Ellora Ajanta

Narmada

Vadodara

Gandhinagar

Mumbai (Bombay)

Daman

Surat

GUJARAT

Ahmedabad Jamnagar

Kandla

Irra

DAMAN AND AND DIU DIU DAMAN

Okha

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you’ll find yourself exhausted at the end of your vacation. MUMBAI (BOMBAY) & MAHARASHTRA Teetering on the edge of the Arabian Sea, its heaving population barely contained by palm-fringed beaches, India’s sexiest city is a vibrant, confident metropolis that’s tangibly high on energy. The state capital of Maharashtra, this is home to many of the subcontinent’s best restaurants and great hotels. It’s also the ideal starting point for a tour northwest to Gujarat, or south along the Konkan railway to Goa and beyond. Whichever you choose, do plan for an eastward jaunt to the ancient rock-cut caves of Ajanta and Ellora, Maharashtra’s startling World Heritage Sites. GOA Nirvana for flower children since the late 1960s, Goa still attracts a cosmopolitan mix of youngsters who cruise from beach to beach, looking for action. But Goa is more than a party in paradise. A Portuguese colonial heritage has left an indelible mark on this tiny enclave (India’s smallest state), from cuisine to architecture, with plenty to see. And if the crowded beaches and vibrant markets leave you gasping for solitude, you can still find the original Goan paradise on far-flung beaches or in quiet boutique hotels, reviewed in detail in this book. KARNATAKA & KERALA Traveling south along India’s west coast, you will pass through untouched Karnataka; it’s possible you’ll overnight in the hip city of Bangalore. From there you can head to Hyderabad, the 400-year-old capital of Andhra Pradesh, as famous for its food and minarets as for its burgeoning software industry; or south to Mysore, “City of Incense.” Whatever you do, set aside time to explore the lost city of Hampi, arguably Karnataka’s most evocative attraction, or to join the Jain pilgrimage to anoint the giant feet of Lord Gomateswara, said to be the largest monolith in the world. There’s more

besides, but who can tarry long when Kerala, “God’s own country,” awaits? South India’s top destination, particularly for the well-heeled traveler in search of pampering and relaxation, Kerala offers ancient backwaters plied by houseboats, herds of wild elephant, coconut-lined beaches and, of course, the ancient healing art of Ayurveda. TAMIL NADU Occupying a long stretch of the eastern Indian Ocean coastline, India’s southernmost state seems little touched by the cocktail of foreign influences that contributed to the cultural developments in the North. This is where you’ll find India’s most superb Dravidian temples, from Mamallapuram (7th c. A.D.) to the Madurai temple complex (16th c. A.D.). When you’re all templed out, there’s always Pondicherry, the former French coastal town where traditional Indian snack joints feature signs proclaiming MEALS READY—BIEN VENUE and loincloth-clad locals converse in flawless French. DELHI, MADHYA & UTTAR PRADESH Entered through Delhi, capital of the largest democracy in the world, the central states of Madhya and Uttar Pradesh are the real heart of India, where great rulers battled for power over vast swaths of India, and where you’ll find arguably the densest concentration of top attractions on the subcontinent. From the “seven cities” of Delhi, it’s a short train or road journey to Agra, home to the Taj Mahal and other superb examples of medieval Mughal architecture. From there you can either head west to Rajasthan, or east—via the erotic temples of Khajuraho, considered the pinnacle of Hindu medieval architecture—to the ancient city of Varanasi, India’s holiest pilgrimage site, where the faithful come to die on the banks of the sacred Ganges to achieve moksha—liberation from earthly life. To escape the well-beaten tourist track, head south to the vast plains

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of Madhya Pradesh, to Bandhavgarh National Park, one of the best places to see tigers in Asia. RAJASTHAN & GUJARAT With crenelated forts and impregnable palaces that rise like giant fairy-tale sets above dusty sun-scorched plains and shimmering lakes, Rajasthan—literally “land of princes”—epitomizes the romance of India. Whether you choose to linger in the untainted medieval atmosphere of little towns like Bundi, browse the bumperto-bumper shops in Jaipur, track tigers in Ranthambhore, overnight on the lake in the beautiful city of Udaipur, or explore the world’s oldest living fort in Jaisalmer, you will want to see it all. South lies the less-traveled state of Gujarat, filled with hidden gems and lacking the touts and hawkers of more heavily traveled sites. HIMACHAL PRADESH & LADAKH Bordered by Tibet to the east, Himachal Pradesh incorporates great topographic diversity, from vast, bleak tracts of the rustcolored high-altitude Trans-Himalayan desert to dense green deodar forests, apple orchards, and cultivated terraces. Together with Ladakh (known as “Little Tibet”), this is also where you’ll find India’s largest concentration of Buddhists, their atmospheric gompas (temples, including Tabo, the World Heritage Site in Spiti) a total contrast to the pageantry of Hindu

temples. An easy—and highly recommended—detour to the region is via Amritsar to view the Golden Temple, arguably the most spiritual destination in India. UTTARANCHAL Comprising the preVedic territories of Garhwal and Kumaon, the mountains of the central Himalayan state of Uttaranchal are riven with ancient Hindu pilgrimage routes, and offer wonderful trekking routes. Non-hikers come here to practice yoga at Rishikesh on the banks of the holy river Ganges, or to take a road trip through the less-traveled parts of Kumaon, possibly ending their sojourn looking for tigers in Corbett National Park, which vies with Ranthambhore for accessibility from Delhi. KOLKATA (CALCUTTA) & THE EAST Kolkata, the much-maligned capital of West Bengal, never fails to surprise the visitor with its beautiful albeit crumbling colonial architecture, sophisticated Bengali culture, and wonderful restaurants and hotels. From here you can either head north to the cooling breezes of West Bengal’s hill station, Darjeeling, famous for its tea, and on to the Buddhist state of Sikkim (in many ways even more remote than Himachal Pradesh); or you can head south to Orissa to visit the monolithic Sun Temple at Konark, yet another of India’s awesome array of World Heritage Sites.

2 Visitor Information India’s Tourism Information Department is going all out to seduce international visitors, and has fairly extensive representation around the globe. Access one of its websites (www.tourisminindia.com, www.tour india.com, or www.incredibleindia.com) for general information, but be aware that some pages may be out of date or permanently under construction. The websites do offer links to all of India’s regional tourism departments, some of which provide fantastic coverage of what’s on offer.

Indian tourism offices may be found worldwide as follows. In the U.S.: 3550 Wilshire Blvd., Room 204, Los Angeles, CA 90010; & 213/380-8855; and Suite 1808, 1270 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020; & 212/751-6840. In the U.K.: 7 Cork St., London W1X 2LN; & 71-437-3677. In Canada: 60 Bloor St. (W), Suite 1003, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8; & 416-962-3787. In Australia: Level 2, Piccadilly, 210 Pitt St., Sydney, NWS 2000; & 2-9264-4855.

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Tips

Visa Savvy

Travelers to India can apply for a tourist visa from their nearest Indian Consulate or High Commission. This is valid for multiple entries for a minimum of 6 months from the date of issue. Given the nature of India’s bureaucracy, the rules and fees for application change regularly, so it’s best to check with your travel agent or with the relevant authority for the latest visa information. Accurately completed visa application forms must be accompanied by two passport-size photographs (on a light background) and the appropriate processing fee; apply well in advance to avoid unforeseeable delays. You won’t be admitted to India unless your passport is valid for at least 6 months after your entry, and it should typically also be valid for at least 3 months beyond the period of your intended stay. Check for fee structure and more details at www.indianembassy.org. In the U.S., the Indian Embassy is at 2107 Massachusetts Ave., Washington, DC 20008 (& 202-939-9861); and there are consulates in Houston, New York, San Francisco, and Chicago. In the U.K., India House is in Aldwych, London WC2B 4NA (& 020-7240-1012; www.hcilondon.net). If you’re applying for a visa in a country where India does not have a representative, you are advised to make inquiries at the nearest British authority. A special permit is required for foreigners wishing to visit the Lakshadweep Islands, as well as remote areas such as Sikkim and Ladakh. For Lakshadweep, your permit will be arranged when your accommodations are reserved. Permits for the other restricted regions can be obtained in India; specific details are given in the appropriate chapters. Carry a number of passport-size photographs and copies of the personal particulars and Indian visa pages of your passport in order to apply for these permits.

Websites You can access up-to-theminute news and stories through the websites of some of the country’s largest English dailies, including www.time sofindia.com, www.expressindia.com, www.hindustantimes.com, and www. thehinduonnet.com. For up-to-date news and updates on Bollywood movies, visit

www.rediff.com or www.indiainfo.com; for travel-related information and features, visit www.outlooktraveller.com. Travel Spirit International (www.tsiindia.com) has a wide range of links as well as easy access to sites where you can book reduced-price accommodations and travel.

3 Entry Requirements & Customs passport applications. For an up-to-date ENTRY REQUIREMENTS For information on how to get a passport, go to the “Fast Facts: India” section, later in this chapter. The websites listed there provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing

country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U.S. State Department at http:// travel.state.gov.

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CUSTOMS W H AT YO U C A N B R I N G INTO INDIA

You can bring as much foreign currency into India as you like; if you have over $10,000 in cash or traveler’s checks, however, you should complete a declaration form. You may not import Indian currency into India. In addition to your personal effects, you are allowed 2 liters of alcohol, and 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars. (Know that foreign liquors and imported cigarettes are very heavily taxed and in some areas difficult to come by.) You may carry a cellphone, camera, and pair of binoculars, but officially you may have only five rolls of film. You must complete a special Tourist Baggage Re-Export Form if you are carrying valuables such as a laptop computer, video equipment, special camera gear, or jewelry. Although there is a strong possibility that you may encounter difficulties upon leaving if these forms are not completed, you’ll discover a general malaise among Customs officials, who seldom hassle foreign visitors on international flights. Also, much of the bureaucratic heavy-handedness has eased in recent years, and there is less suspicion of foreign travelers. W H AT YO U C A N TA K E H O M E FROM INDIA

You may not export Indian currency. Exchange all notes at the airport before you depart. Note that airport moneychangers frequently run out of certain currencies, so you might want to complete any exchange before you go to the airport. There is a restriction on the exportation of anything over 100 years old, particularly works of art and items of cultural significance. It is illegal to export animal or snake skins, ivory, shatoosh wool, or anything that has been produced using these materials. Generally, jewelry valued under Rs 10,000 ($218) may be exported, while gold jewelry valued up to Rs 2,000 ($44) is allowed.

Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $400 worth of merchandise dutyfree. You’ll be charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $100. With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United States. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go! online at www.customs.gov. (Click on “Travel,” then on “Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.”) Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Patrol Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (& 877/ 287-8867), and request the pamphlet. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or call 204/ 983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you’re allowed to bring back, duty-free, one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you’re allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they’re unsolicited and don’t contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package “Unsolicited gift, under $60 value”). You should declare all valuables on the Y-38 form before your departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as foreign cameras. Note: The $750 exemption can only be used once a year and only after an absence of 7 days. Citizens of the U.K. returning from a non-E.U. country have a Customs allowance of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine, or other

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liqueurs; 60cc (ml) of perfume; 250cc (ml) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Customs & Excise at & 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk. The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you’re returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file Form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at & 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

4 Money CURRENCY The Indian rupee (Rs) is available in denominations of Rs 1,000, Rs 500, Rs 100, Rs 50, Rs 20, Rs 10, and Rs 5 notes. You will occasionally come across Rs 1 or Rs 2 notes—treat them as souvenirs. Minted coins come in denominations of Rs 5, Rs 2, and Rs 1, as well as 50 and 25 paise. There are 100 paise in a rupee. Note: Badly damaged or torn rupee notes (of which there are many) may be refused, particularly in larger cities, but less fuss is made over them in small towns. Check the change you are given and avoid accepting these.

EXCHANGE RATES Exchange rates fluctuate dramatically. At press time, US$1 bought you around Rs 44 (43.9), and 1 euro equaled Rs 54, while £1 was worth around Rs 78. Bear in mind that a few dollars, pounds, or euros go a very long way in India. You will enjoy your vacation a whole lot more

The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn’t exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 1721 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (& 04/4736099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs. govt.nz).

if you don’t sweat the small stuff: A difference of a couple of rupees will hardly show up on your bank statement. For upto-the-minute currency conversions, log on to www.xe.com/ucc. You cannot obtain Indian currency anywhere outside India, and you may not carry rupees beyond India’s borders. You may have to exchange at least some money at the airport upon your arrival; change just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel, since the rate will be quite unfavorable. Tip: India is one destination in which it is really worthwhile to arrange an airport transfer with your hotel so that you can avoid waiting in long lines at the airport money-changer, dealing with prepaid booths, or negotiating fees with drivers and touts. After a good night’s rest, head to the nearest bank or ATM for a cash infusion. Banks offer the best exchange rates, but they tend to be inefficient and the staff lethargic about tending to foreigners’

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What Things Cost in India

This is a sampling of average prices you’re likely to pay in India. Bear in mind that big cities generally have much higher prices than smaller towns, and that any place that attracts tourists inevitably attracts rip-off artists. Rupees Luxury hotel room Rs 3,500–Rs 30,000 Budget–moderate hotel room Rs 150–Rs 4,500 Cup of tea from a stall Rs 2–Rs 7 Cup of tea at a hotel Rs 10–Rs 150 Newspaper Rs 3–Rs 5 Weekly magazine Rs 15–Rs 25 Taxi for the day Rs 600–Rs 2,000 1km by auto-rickshaw Rs 8–Rs 12 Meal at a local diner (dhaba) Rs 30–Rs 100 Main course in a luxury restaurant Rs 150–Rs 800

needs. You run the risk of being ripped off by using unauthorized moneychangers; the most convenient option is to avail yourself of ATMs while you’re in the big cities. Always ask for an encashment receipt when you change cash—you will need this when you use local currency to pay for major expenses (such as accommodations and transport, though

Tips

U.S. Dollar British Pound $80–$690 £45–£383 $3.40–$102 £2–£57 4¢–11¢ £0.025–£0.08 23¢–$3.40 £0.12–£2 6¢–10¢ £0.038–£0.7 35¢–55¢ £0.19–£0.3 $13.65–$46 £8–£25 15¢–30¢ £.10–£0.15 65¢–$1.30 £.38–£1.28 $3.40–$18.20 £2–£10

you should use a credit card wherever possible). You will also be asked to produce this receipt when you re-exchange your rupees before you leave India.

ATMs (AUTOMATED TELLER MACHINES) Getting cash from your checking account (or cash advances on your credit card) at

The Battle of the Haggle

Sure, things are cheap to begin with and you may feel silly haggling over a few rupees, but keep in mind that if you’re given a verbal quote for an unmarked item, it’s probably (but not always) twice the realistic asking price. Use discretion though, because items that are priced ridiculously low to begin with are hardly worth reducing further—either you’re being conned or you’re being cruel. To haggle effectively, make a counter-offer under half price, and don’t get emotional. Protests and adamant assertions (“This is less than it cost me to buy!”) will follow. Stick to your guns and see what transpires; stop once you’ve reached a price you can live with. Remember that once the haggle is on, a challenge has been initiated, and it’s fun to regard your opponent’s act of salesmanship as an artistic endeavor. Let your guard slip, and he will empty your wallet. Take into account the disposition and situation of the merchant; you don’t want to haggle a genuinely poor man into deeper poverty! And if you’ve been taken (and we all have), see it as a small contribution to a family that lives on a great deal less than you do.

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Tips

Small Change

When you change money, ask for some small bills (a wad of Rs 10 and Rs 20s) for tipping or baksheesh (see “Tipping” under “Fast Facts: India,” later in this chapter). At smaller outlets and vendors, you’ll also frequently be told that there is no change for your Rs 500 note. Keep your smaller bills separate from the larger ones, so that they’re readily accessible and you’ll be less of a target for theft.

an ATM is by far the easiest way to get money. These 24-hour machines are readily available in most Indian cities and larger towns and at large commercial banks such as Citibank, Standard Chartered, ABN Amro, and Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank. Cirrus (& 800/4247747; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (& 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash likely charges its own fee. To find out what these international withdrawal fees are, ask your bank. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds you can withdraw outside your home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. You should have no problem withdrawing Rs 10,000 (almost $200) at a time from an ATM (which goes a long way in India), although some may have slightly lower limits.

TRAVELER’S CHECKS Traveler’s checks are useful in that, unlike cash, they can be replaced if lost or stolen, but they are far less popular now that most cities have 24-hour ATMs that allow you to withdraw small amounts of cash as needed. If you want to avoid the

high withdrawal fees most ATMS impose, you might be better off using traveler’s checks—but know that you may not get the best exchange rate in the process. Keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You’ll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling & 800/221-7282; Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the 1% fee. American Automobile Association members can obtain checks without a fee at most AAA offices. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call & 800/ 732-1322 for information. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks; call & 800/ 223-9920 for a location near you.

CREDIT CARDS Credit cards are a safe way to carry money, they provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit card at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN (personal identification number). If you’ve forgotten your PIN or didn’t even know you have one, call the

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phone number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will give you the number over the phone if you provide personal information. Your credit card company will likely charge a commission (1% or 2%) on every foreign purchase, but you’ll

still get the best deal with credit cards when you factor in things like ATM fees and traveler’s check exchange rates. MasterCard and Visa are commonly accepted throughout India. American Express is accepted by most major hotels and restaurants; Diners Club has a much smaller following.

5 When to Go Your choice of where and when to go will be determined primarily by the weather. India’s vastness means that the climate varies greatly from region to region, and sometimes even from day to night, as in the desert regions. The Indian year features six seasons: spring, summer, the rainy season, early and late autumn, and winter, but effectively there are but three—summer, winter, and monsoon. You’ll be better off visiting during the high-season winter months (Nov–Mar), when most of the country experiences pleasant, moderate temperatures (still hot enough to luxuriate in the pool), though cities in the North get chillier days as snow falls in the Himalayas. As a rule, always be prepared for warm to hot days, with the possibility of cooler weather at night. (If this has you worrying about how to pack, remember that you can pick up the most wonderful throwaway cotton garments for next to nothing and a real Pashmina scarf in every color to ward off an unexpected chill.) As with all season-driven destinations, there is a downside to traveling during peak months: From December to January, for example, Goa swells to bursting point with foreigners and city folk who arrive for the sensational beaches and parties. Lodging rates often soar during these periods, so you may want to wait until the shoulder season (Sept, Oct, Mar, Apr), when there are fewer people and rates are very negotiable.

Summer (generally Apr–June) sees little traffic, and for good reason—the daytime heat, particularly in India’s north-central regions, is debilitating, even for the locals. This is the time to plan your trip to the Himalayas instead, particularly to the Himachal Pradesh region. Ladakh, a magical region in the far north of the country, can only be visited July through September—the rest of the year it remains cut off by cold and snow. The monsoon drenches much of the country between June and September, usually starting its season in Kerala. In Tamil Nadu and parts of Andhra Pradesh, a second monsoon hits around midOctober and runs through December. In Rajasthan, central India, and the northern plains, the rains typically arrive by July and fall until early September. Some of the regions are at their most beautiful during the monsoon, but it can be difficult to move around, and there is a higher risk of exposure to diseases like malaria. Flooding, power failures, and natural destruction are also not uncommon.

INDIA’S WEATHER MONTH BY MONTH The following charts indicate the average maximum and minimum temperatures for each month of the year, as well as the average rainfall, in major tourist-destination cities and towns.

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THE HIMALAYA SHIMLA Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug 48/36 50/37 57/45 66/52 73/59 75/61 70/61 68/59 9/2 10/3 14/7 19/11 23/15 24/16 21/16 20/15 50 50 50 25 50 150 400 375

Sept Oct Nov Dec 68/57 64/52 59/45 52/39 20/14 18/11 15/7 11/4 200 50 0 25

MAHARASHTRA MUMBAI Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug 88/61 90/63 91/68 92/75 90/79 90/79 86/79 84/79 31/16 32/17 33/20 33/24 33/26 32/26 30/26 29/26 0 1 0 0 20 647 945 660

Sept 86/79 30/26 309

Oct Nov Dec 90/75 91/64 90/55 32/24 33/18 32/13 117 7 1

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug 88/70 90/63 90/68 91/75 91/81 88/75 84/73 84/75 31/21 32/17 32/20 33/24 33/27 31/24 29/23 29/24 2 0 4 17 18 580 892 341

Sept 84/75 29/24 277

Oct Nov Dec 88/75 91/73 91/70 31/24 33/23 33/21 122 20 37

Aug 82/75 28/24 386

Sept 82/75 28/24 235

Oct 84/75 29/24 333

Nov 86/75 30/24 184

Dec 86/73 30/23 37

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug 86/70 90/72 95/73 97/77 99/79 99/79 97/79 95/77 30/21 32/22 35/23 36/25 37/26 37/26 36/26 35/25 26 16 21 81 59 31 48 117

Sept 95/77 35/25 123

Oct 91/75 33/24 179

Nov 88/73 31/23 161

Dec 86/72 30/22 43

Jan Feb Mar Apr May 86/59 90/63 88/73 100/75 102/81 30/15 32/17 31/23 38/24 39/27 8 10 14 30 28

Aug 86/72 30/22 133

Sept Oct Nov Dec 86/72 88/68 84/68 84/55 30/22 31/20 29/20 29/13 163 63 28 8

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug 70/45 75/50 86/59 97/70 106/81 104/84 95/81 93/79 21/7 24/10 30/15 36/21 41/27 40/29 35/27 34/26 25 22 17 7 8 65 211 173

Sept Oct Nov Dec 93/77 95/66 84/54 73/46 34/25 35/19 29/12 23/8 150 31 1 5

SOUTH INDIA PA N J I M , G O A Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

COCHIN, KERALA Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

Jan Feb Mar Apr May 88/73 88/75 88/79 88/79 88/79 31/23 31/24 31/26 31/26 31/26 9 34 50 139 364

June 84/75 29/24 756

July 82/75 28/24 572

MADURAI Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

HYDERABAD Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

June 95/75 35/24 110

July 88/73 31/23 140

DELHI, RAJASTHAN & CENTRAL INDIA DELHI/AGRA Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

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JAIPUR Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 72/46 77/52 88/59 99/70 106/79 102/81 93/79 90/75 91/73 91/64 84/54 75/48 22/8 25/11 31/15 37/21 41/26 39/27 34/26 32/24 33/23 33/18 29/12 24/9 14 8 9 4 10 54 193 239 90 19 3 4

EAST INDIA KO L K ATA Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (mm)

Jan Feb Mar Apr May 79/54 84/59 93/68 97/75 97/79 26/12 29/15 34/20 36/24 36/26 13 22 30 50 135

EVENTS, HAPPENINGS & FESTIVALS Indians love to celebrate, and there is no end to the list of festivals that are held in honor of the gods, gurus, and historical figures that make this such a spiritually saturated and colorful destination. Festivals usually coincide with the lunar calendar, with dates published only a year in advance, so check with the local tourism office about exact dates (some may move into another month). India has relatively few national holidays when attractions, government offices, and banks are closed: Republic Day, January 26; Independence Day,August 15; Gandhi’s Birthday, October 2; and Christmas.

January/February

June 93/79 34/26 263

July 90/79 32/26 320

Aug 90/79 32/26 318

Sept 90/79 32/26 253

Oct Nov Dec 88/75 84/64 81/55 31/24 29/18 27/13 134 29 4

festival commemorates the martyrdom of the grandson of the Prophet Mohammed; during a parade of religious fervor, penitents scourge themselves with whips—often with nails or blades attached. March

Carnival, Goa. It may not be on quite the same level as celebrations in Rio, but the riot of colorful costumes and processions, as well as the exuberant dancing and music, make this an especially fun time to visit the tiny state and its beautiful beaches. Ellora Festival of Classical Dance and Music, Maharashtran interior. This festival draws some of the country’s top artists to the ancient caves at this World Heritage Site. International Yoga Festival, Rishikesh. Spiritually inclined visitors head here to take classes with Yogacharyas from all over the world teaching a variety of yogic disciplines. Khajuraho Dance Festival, Madhya Pradesh. Get a glimpse of all of India’s great classical dance forms.

Basant Festival, countrywide. The onset of spring (basant) is marked by various celebrations. Citrus-colored clothes are worn, and there is a profusion of dancing and singing coupled with great dinner spreads and feasts to mark the season of agricultural plenty. Holi, northern India. Celebrated predominantly in the North, this joyous Hindu festival is held during the full moon—expect to be bombarded with colored water and powder. Desert Festival, Rajasthan. This festiJune/July val takes place in Jaisalmer. Rath Yatra, Puri. In Orissa’s seaside Muharram. Best experienced in the temple town of Puri, this is one of the city of Lucknow, the 10-day Shi’ite

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largest annual gatherings of humanity; revelry occurs in Mysore (Karnataka) thousands of devotees come together and Ahmedabad (Gujarat). to help pull the Lord of the Universe October/November and his two siblings through the streets Diwali (Festival of Lights; also Deepon massive cars. avali), countrywide. This huge celebration among Hindu Indians is best Hemis Tsechu, Ladakh. The town’s experienced on the lawns of Umaid most impressive monastic celebration Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur, at a wonderhappens on July 6 and 7, 2006, when ful party hosted by the Maharajah the birthday of the founder of Tibetan (which hotel guests are invited to Buddhism is celebrated with Lamaistic attend). Note, however, that just as masked dances (chaams), chanting, and Christmas has been exploited commermusic at Hemis Monastery. cially in the West, Diwali has become a August/September time of excessive noise, increased alcohol Nehru Cup Snake Boat Races, consumption, and all-night fireworks. Alleppey. Kerala’s backwaters come alive with these renowned snake boat Mela (Cattle Fair), Pushkar, Rajasthan. races. Second Saturday of August. The annual cattle fair in Pushkar, Rajasthan, is the biggest of its kind in Independence Day, countrywide. Asia. Traders, pilgrims, and tourists from Indians unite to celebrate independall over the world turn this tiny temple ence. August 15. town into a huge tented city, with camel Ganesh Chhaturthi, countrywide. races, cattle auctions, huge bonfires, traThis 10-day celebration of Ganesha, the ditional dances, and the like. elephant-headed god, is popular across December/January India, but Mumbai is arguably the best Christmas, New Year, countrywide. place to experience this vibrant event, Prepare for increased hotel prices as celebrated with huge processions, firewealthy Indians celebrate both Christworks, and the construction of special mas and New Year, often by taking the shrines. At the end of the festival, clay entire family on an extravagant vacaimages of the god are immersed in the tion. New Year, in particular, may be sea. marked by compulsory hidden extras September/October such as special entertainment and celeKullu Dussehra. Head for the Kullu bratory meals. Christmas is celebrated Valley in Himachal Pradesh, where you with as much fervor, if not more, as it can join the crowds when idols of is in the West. City hotels take great Hindu deities from around the region advantage of the situation, while in are brought together in a colorful certain areas, such as Goa, midnight Festival of the Gods. Similarly ecstatic Mass and other traditions are observed.

6 Travel Insurance Check your existing insurance policies and credit card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, canceled tickets, or medical expenses. The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age,

your health, and the type of trip you’re taking. TRIP-CANCELLATION INSURANCE Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt.

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Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disaster to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears, though, as many travelers discovered when they tried to cancel their trips in Oct 2001 because they were wary of flying.) In this unstable world, trip-cancellation insurance is a good buy if you’re getting tickets well in advance. Insurance policy details vary, so read the fine print and make sure that your airline or cruise line is on the list of carriers covered in case of bankruptcy (note that purchasing with a credit card is often a good insurance against the carrier going bankrupt, if you request the refund within 60 days of the bankruptcy). For information, contact one of the following insurers: Access America (& 866/807-3982; www. accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (& 800/826-4919; www.travel guard.com); Travel Insured International (& 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured. com); and Travelex Insurance Services 888/457-4602; www.travelex(& insurance.com). MEDICAL INSURANCE Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home. However, do check, particularly if you’re insured by an HMO. With the exception of certain HMOs and Medicare/Medicaid, your medical insurance should cover medical treatment and even hospital care overseas. However, most out-of-country hospitals make you pay

7 Health & Safety STAYING HEALTHY Consult your doctor or local travel clinic concerning precautions against diseases that are prevalent in India. The following cautionary list may have you wondering whether travel is advisable at all. However, don’t be alarmed: Millions of travelers leave India having suffered nothing more than an upset stomach—even this small inconvenience should settle within

your bills upfront, and send you a refund after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork. And in a worst-case scenario, there’s the high cost of emergency evacuation. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX International (& 410/453-6300; www.medexassist. com) or Travel Assistance International (& 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance. com). For general information on services, call the latter company’s Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at & 800/777-8710. LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCE On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability, see if your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard’s “BagTrak” product. Don’t buy insurance at the airport—it’s usually overpriced. Put any valuables or irreplaceable items in your carry-on luggage—many items (including books, money, and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. Tip: It’s a good idea to arrive in India with as little luggage as possible—you can buy cheap clothes when you arrive and you don’t have to worry about losing them or about laundry mishaps (which can happen even in India’s five-star hotels).

a few days, your system all the stronger for it. VACCINATIONS You will almost certainly be advised to be vaccinated against hepatitis A, cholera, tetanus, and typhoid; also make sure your polio immunization is up to date. Longer-stay visitors should consider getting the hepatitis B and meningitis vaccinations as well. Note that

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travelers arriving from yellow fever– infected areas must have a yellow fever vaccination certificate. MALARIA Most doctors will advise you to take a course of anti-malarial tablets, but as is the case elsewhere, the best prevention is not to get bitten. Malaria is a parasitic infection borne by the female Anopheles mosquito, and risks are greater in warm, wet areas (particularly during monsoon) and at night, when mosquitoes are at their most active. Cover all exposed skin with anti-mosquito creams (many effective creams are available in India) or sprays as evening approaches, and use repellent coils or electric plug-in mosquito repellents as a preventive measure at night, particularly in hotel rooms without air-conditioning. Note that some plug-in repellents can cause a mild sore throat, in which case stick with creams. Wear loose, floppy clothes that cover as much skin as possible, but remember that mosquitoes sometimes do bite through thin clothing, so you may need to apply repellent on your clothes as well. Note that many travelers on anti-malarial tablets suffer side effects including nausea, vomiting, and abdominal pain; ask your doctor to suggest an alternative anti-malarial that you can take if you end up having serious side effects (but bear in mind that chloroquine is not an effective anti-malarial for India). TROPICAL ILLNESSES India’s mosquitoes are also responsible for spreading untreatable dengue fever and virulent Japanese encephalitis. Again, the best advice it to avoid getting bitten in the first place (see above). PACKING A FIRST-AID KIT Besides anti-diarrheal medication, of which the most important are rehydration salts (available all over India as ORS—oral rehydration salts), it may be worthwhile to carry a course of antibiotics (such as Ciprofloxacin) for stomach-related illnesses. It’s also worthwhile to take an

antiseptic cream, and possibly an antibacterial soap (though the type of soap used matters less than vigilance: Wash your hands regularly, particularly before eating). Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage in their original containers with pharmacy labels, so they’ll make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out (include the generic name; local pharmacists will be unfamiliar with brand names). Don’t forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses or an extra inhaler. SEXUALLY TRANSMITTED DISEASES & BLOOD INFECTIONS Keep in mind that HIV and hepatitis B are transmitted not only through sexual contact, but by infected blood. This means that any procedure involving a used needle or a blade can be hazardous. Avoid getting tattoos or piercings, and steer clear of roadside barbers offering shaves. For haircuts and procedures such as manicures and pedicures, stick to salons in upmarket hotels. Take the usual precautions if you are about to engage in any sexual activities—AIDS numbers are not well publicized, but this is a huge and growing problem. DIETARY RED FLAGS & TUMMY TROUBLES Many visitors to India fall victim to the ubiquitous “Delhi belly,” an unfortunate reaction to unfamiliar rich and spicy foodstuffs that can overwhelm the system and cause symptoms ranging from slight discomfort and “the runs” to extreme cases of nausea, fever, and delirium. To avoid this, simply be sensible. Adjust slowly; move on to spicy foods in small doses. You should also be on your guard about where you eat; if you have any fears at all, stick to the upmarket restaurants, usually those in five-star hotels—but do venture out to those recommended in this guide. Remember that uncooked vegetables or

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fruit can be hazardous if washed in water that has not been boiled, so peel all your own fresh fruit and avoid salads. Unless you’re in an upmarket hotel, don’t eat fruit that has already been cut—any water on the knife or on the skin of the fruit is likely to seep into the flesh. Be wary of undercooked meats—they may harbor intestinal worms—and stay away from pork unless you’re in a five-star hotel. (For more tips and guidelines, see the appendix: “India in Depth.”) The first thing to bear in mind when diarrhea or nausea strike is that your body is trying to cleanse itself, so only use an anti-diarrhea medication (like Imodium) if you are desperate—about to embark on a long train journey, for example. Ideally, you should plan a few days of rest and cut back on all food except plain basics (a diet of boiled rice and bananas is ideal), and drink plenty of boiled water (or black tea) or bottled water with rehydration salts. If your tummy trouble doesn’t clear up after 3 to 4 days, consult a physician—you may be suffering from something more serious: a protozoa (amoeba or giardia) or a viral or bacterial infection. WATER CONCERNS More than anything else in India, it is the water that is likely to make you ill. For this reason, you should not only avoid untreated drinking water, but be on your guard against any food product that is washed with water or has had water added to it. When buying tea (or chai) on the streets, for example, check that the cup is washed with hot water and even ask to dry it yourself— carry a small cloth or napkins so that you can remove any and all water from anything that is going to go into your mouth. Use bottled water when you brush your teeth, and do not open your mouth in the shower. Do not have ice added to your drink unless you’ve been assured that it’s purified. If you purchasing bottled water from roadside stalls, dodgy-looking shops, or small towns, check the seal on

the cap and investigate the bottle for any signs of tampering. Also try to determine the age of the packaged water; if it looks like it’s been sitting on the shelf for too long, give it a miss. The only exception to the bottled water rule may be if you are 100% sure the water has been boiled for 20 minutes. Even in very upmarket hotels and restaurants that purify their water inhouse, it’s advisable to stick to bottled water. Remember not to clean wounds, cuts, or sores with tap water. Instead, douse and cleanse any open wound with antiseptic solution, cover it with an adhesive bandage, and consult a doctor if it doesn’t heal soon. BUGS, BITES & OTHER WILDLIFE CONCERNS Remote areas are alive with insects and creepy-crawlies, but the greatest risk is malaria (see above). Wear shoes when trekking or in wet areas; you can be contaminated from worm-infested soil or mud, which can also be a source of microbial, bacterial, or hookworm infection. Leeches are a common problem in the rainforest regions. Do not try to pull them off your skin; salt usually does the trick. It’s possible to prevent this nasty experience by wearing special anti-leech “socks” and dousing your shoes with lime powder. You’re more likely to be bitten by a rabid dog or monkey than by a snake, spider, centipede, or sea creature, but it does occur: Wear thick trousers and boots when hiking, tread carefully, keep your eyes peeled, and in the unlikely event that you are bitten, try to get a good look at the animal so that medical staff know what antivenin to use. And yes, get to a doctor or hospital as soon as possible. Animals are seldom treated as pets in India— as a general rule, steer clear of them, and should you be bitten, use antiseptic and consult a physician immediately. Animal lovers beware: India will horrify you if you have a real soft spot for animals. You will feel particularly sickened by the “dancing bears” in North

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India—sloth bears cruelly tethered and forced to perform for tourists—as well as severely malnourished dogs, feral cats, diseased pigs, and even cows, considered sacred, looking emaciated and chewing on plastic bags and cardboard for sustenance. If you can see someone to rant at, do, but for the most part you have to bear it. SUN/ELEMENTS/EXTREME WEATHER EXPOSURE Carry highSPF sunscreen and use it liberally. It’s also advisable to wear a hat or cap during the day, and try to avoid midday sun wherever possible. In the cities, pollution often cloaks the high-level exposure, so keep that hat on. Remember that in the highaltitude Himalayan regions, you can experience cold weather and chilly winds while being burnt to a cinder. During the monsoons, certain regions can become impossible to traverse because of flooding. Orissa, Tamil Nadu, and Andhra Pradesh are prone to cyclones in November and December. Keep abreast of conditions by following weather reports. POLLUTION Air pollution levels in many Indian cities are very high and contain high levels of suspended particulate matter. This is mostly from vehicles, but in places like Varanasi it is compounded by the use of diesel generators. The best thing to do is to always carry a cotton handkerchief with you to hold over your mouth and nose as a mask to breathe through until you are past the offending area. India is also plagued by noise pollution, and most visitors are usually shocked at how often drivers blare their horns. There’s really nothing you can do other than accept that honking is usually a necessary precaution to avoid smashing into people, stray dogs, cattle, and all kinds of other obstacles (including cars).

describe your problem to your hotel concierge or receptionist and he or she will arrange for the necessary medication to be dropped off, doing away with possible translation problems. Pharmacies and chemists hand out pills and antibacterial medication upon request—even those that would require a prescription back home. (This is not always a good thing; if possible, consult a physician before resorting to over-the-counter drugs. Also beware of being given incomplete courses of antibiotics.) There are hospital listings for major cities in each chapter, but it’s best to consult your hotel concierge regarding the best medical attention in town, particularly if you’re in a more remote area. In fact, do not solicit the assistance of anyone who is unknown to your hotel. Well-documented scams operating in certain tourist destinations involve prolonging your illness in order to attract large payouts from your insurance company. If you or someone you are traveling with needs hospitalization, shell out for a private one, and if you’re able to travel, head for the nearest big city. Advise your consulate and your medical insurance company as soon as possible. In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need. Double-check—you may want to buy travel medical insurance (see “Travel Insurance,” above). Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel and make sure you have the right local number to call for assistance. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (& 877/3948747; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on necessary vaccines and health hazards by region or country.

STAYING SAFE

Considering its poverty and population size, India enjoys an amazingly low incidence of violent crime, and the vast Don’t panic. Medicines are widely and majority of visits to India tend to be troueasily available in India. You can even ble-free. That said, the usual rules

WHAT TO DO IF YOU GET SICK IN INDIA

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apply—no wandering around back alleys at night, for example, no flashing of valuables or wads of cash. Foreign visitors may be targeted by corrupt cops looking to get a handsome bribe or payoff, so you’d best steer clear of any suspicious behavior such as purchasing illegal drugs. If you’re caught, even with marijuana, there is a good chance that you could be thrown in prison. If you’re involved in a car accident, have your hotel manager report the incident immediately. Avoid provocative debates and arguments where alcohol may be involved. Exercise caution during festivals and religious processions, where crowds are usually overwhelming and can become unruly. TERRORISM & CIVIL UNREST Avoid political demonstrations—these occasionally erupt into violence. Election rallies frequently turn bitter, and you don’t want to be caught in the middle of an angry mob. In recent years, there have been incidents of terrorist bombings, kidnapping, and murder in various parts of India, particularly in the northernmost state of Jammu and Kashmir, where the terrorist organization Harakat Ul Mujahideen has issued a ban on Americans, including tourists. With the exception of the eastern district of Ladakh, avoid travel in this volatile and unsafe war-torn region, no matter what tour operators and tourist offices have to say; more than 284 terrorist attacks occurred in Kashmir in 2004 alone, and some 500 civilians have been killed by terrorists. Travelers should also exercise extreme caution when undertaking treks and travel to remote parts of Ladakh, where solo travelers are not permitted and can potentially be targeted by terrorist factions; in isolated cases, unaccompanied trekkers have been kidnapped or simply disappear. Trekkers in Himachal Pradesh should stay clear of any drug-related activity—the trade has begun to attract nasty criminal elements. Travel to the

northeastern states of Assam, Manipur, Nagaland, Tripura, and Meghalaya remains risky due to sporadic incidents of ethnic insurgent violence. These areas— and Kashmir—have not been included in this guide. Bomb blasts believed to be connected with the unrest in Jammu and Kashmir have also occurred in public places in other parts of the country. Incidents include two bomb blasts in Mumbai in August 2003 that left 52 Indians dead, and at the Indian Parliament in December 2001, while civil unrest between Hindus and Muslims plagued the state of Gujarat throughout 2002. The motive for several of these bomb blasts has yet to be established. Communal violence can occur without advance warning, but such incidents rarely involve foreigners, and thus far there have been no attacks directed against Americans or other foreigners. That said, the threat here—as anywhere in the world—should not be ignored completely: Exercise vigilance and caution if you find yourself near any government installations or tourist attractions that might be regarded as potential terrorist targets; read the local papers, heeding any relevant reports and travel advisories. Access up-to-the-minute travel warnings at www.travel.state.gov. U.S. citizens can also contact the U.S. Embassy or the nearest U.S. Consulate for more information about the current situation in areas you plan to visit. CRIME Yes, India is one of the safest destinations in the world when it comes to violent assault or threat, but petty crime, like pickpocketing, can be a problem. Apply common sense at all times. Don’t carry wallets prominently; and keep a firm hand on purses (women have reported having their purse straps cut or purse bottoms slit). Don’t wear flashy jewelry or carry around other valuables. Most hotels have in-room electronic safes where you should stash valuables, including

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Surviving Scams & Con Artists In India, scamming is an art form—and you, the tourist, a prime target. The best defense against the regular plague of touts and con men, who will try to tap into your supply of foreign currency by calling themselves “guides” or representatives of a local temple, is a combination of awareness, common sense, and fortitude. Scammers rely largely on human psychology to either win your confidence or tap into your irrational sense of guilt. Stick to your guns when you’re approached by anyone offering to get you something “cheap,” “quality,” or “easy” by firmly declining. In fact, get used to shaking your head and saying “no” three to four times without losing your temper. If someone tells you upfront that they’re not interested in your money, the warning bells should begin to sound. Remember: Don’t pay for services you have not requested. And when you do ask for help, ask if there’s going to be a demand for money at the end, and decide on a price upfront. Rude as it seems, often the only way to get rid of a persistent tout, beggar, or con artist is to ignore them and pretend they don’t exist. If nothing works and you are being excessively harassed, try to find a policeman or other person of authority to help you. Here, then, is a guide to handling India’s touts, hucksters, scam artists, and general wheeling and dealing. • Street touts Touts operate under guises of initial friendship, wanting to practice their English or making promises of cheap accommodations or shopping. Often (but not always), the initial kindness turns sour when you don’t comply with a suggestion that you buy something or check in at a crummy hotel. When browsing a street or market, you will be accosted by what appears to be the owner of the shop but is in fact one of a host of men to whom shopkeepers pay a commission to bring you inside. Since scam artists know that foreigners rely on hired transport, you also need to be particularly wary when considering car hire, taxis, guides, sightseeing tours, or travel agents. • “Official” unofficial operators Even more annoying than the slipperytongued con artists of the street are those who operate under the guise of perceived legitimacy by calling themselves “travel agents” or “tour operators”—and a sign saying “government-approved” often means anything but. Before purchasing anything, you need to know in advance what the going rate is, and preferably deal with someone who comes recommended by this book or a reputable operator recommended by your hotel. • Dealing with drivers Taxi drivers are notorious for telling passengers that their hotel does not exist or has closed. Never allow yourself to be taken to a hotel or restaurant unless it is the one you’ve asked to be taken to (specified by exact name and address). Note that any successful establishment will soon have competition opening with a similar or almost identical name. Drivers also moonlight as restaurant and shop touts and receive a commission for getting you through the door. Taxi drivers often have meters that have been tampered with, or refuse to use fare-conversion

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charts issued by the city authority. Whenever you’re suspicious about a driver’s conduct, ask to be let out of the vehicle immediately, or seek the assistance of your hotel manager before paying the cab fare. When arriving at major airports and train stations, make use of prepaid taxis (the booths are clearly marked) whenever possible. • The commission system Try to establish the commission fee upfront. It’s not just street touts you need to be wary of, but even your rickshaw-walla, guide, or driver (hotels are surrounded by taxis that work on a commission basis). All are out to earn commission from the shops they suggest you visit. Then this gets added to the price you’re quoted—as much as 50%. • Bargains Beware of unmarked wares—this means the goods are priced according to the salesperson’s projection of your ability to pay. Any deal that seems too good to be true, is. If this all sounds too tedious, head for the government shops, where goods are sold at fixed prices. (But again, beware of imitations, like Cottage Industries Exposition, often only marked “CIE,” which are seriously overpriced outlets that cash in on the fame of the good-value government-owned Cottage Industries Emporiums.) Know that even though the real government-owned shops have prices that are not negotiable and are sometimes slightly higher than elsewhere, they are not a rip-off. • Creating needs Another common scam to watch for is when you are suddenly offered a service that is judiciously timed just when you need it—often because a trickster has created the very conditions that create the need. One common Delhi scam is run by shoeshine boys who suddenly appear with their polishing equipment and point to your shoes which, when you look down, suddenly have poop on them. You can be sure that the source of the poop is almost certainly the little guy himself or his accomplice. • Getting the goods on precious goods If you’re shopping for silk carpets, ask the salesman to razor a small sample and light it with a match. Unlike wool, silk does not burn, it smolders. Tricksters will mix silk and wool— which is why you’ll need to ask for a sample across the whole color range. And don’t fall for anyone who tries to persuade you to purchase precious stones on the premise that you can resell them at a profit to a company they supposedly know back home (a Jaipur scam). Note that gold is imported and therefore hugely overpriced, so cheap gold jewelry is exactly that. • Scam doctors Be wary when offered food or drink by a stranger. There have been isolated incidences of travelers being drugged or poisoned in order to rob them. Worse still, there are well-documented (though again isolated) accounts of these kinds of scammers in cahoots with doctors. Once you are ill, they will recommend a doctor, and your medical insurance company is contacted, and you’re kept ill until a substantial medical bill has been run up.

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passports and most of your cash. Be discreet about your money, and never take out large wads of cash in public; exercise modesty at all times. Solo travelers are at greater risk of becoming victims of crime; unless you’re relatively streetwise, touring

India alone may be more pain than pleasure. But know that it is as a victim of a scam that you are most at risk, which at least hurts nothing but your pocket and your pride; see “Surviving Scams & Con Artists,” above.

8 Etiquette & Customs As a rule of thumb, pay attention to what local people are doing, and try to blend in as much as possible. APPROPRIATE ATTIRE In India, your attire will often signal your status, and casual dress will make it more difficult for you to elicit respect. Women should wear loose, cool clothing that covers up as much as possible. Exposed flesh suggests that you’re too poor to dress properly, or that you’re shameless about flaunting your body. Tight clothes are also considered shameless; the more you can disguise your shape, the better. Men should avoid shorts, which are considered bizarre. Women visiting public beaches should be as discreet as possible and avoid sunbathing on empty beaches. In mosques and Sikh gurudwaras you need to make sure your head is covered—a worthwhile purchase is a scarf you can keep in your bag at all times. In certain Hindu temples—particularly in South India—a man may be required to wear a lungi (a long piece of cloth worn like a kilt) and remove his shirt. Always check what others are wearing before venturing in, and approach slowly so that someone can intervene before you offend the sanctity of the holy sanctuary. SHOES Shoes are never worn in places of worship—you are even required to remove your shoes when entering certain churches. It makes good sense to wear a pair of comfortable, cool, and cheap sandals, like flip-flops—they’re easy to remove and unlikely to be stolen; leaving a pair of expensive shoes outside a temple or mosque is not a good idea. However,

you can leave your footwear with an attendant outside for a (Rs 2–Rs 5/4¢–10¢) tip—and you will almost certainly get them back. Some museums and historical monuments may also require you to remove your shoes, and you should extend a similar courtesy when entering someone’s home. In Sikh gurudwaras you are expected to wash your feet after removing your shoes. TOUCHING Public physical contact between men and women is far less acceptable in India than in other parts of the world. Some Indians—particularly those who live in the larger cities and have traveled—understand that Western men and women may shake hands (or even kiss) as expressions of social friendship, but you should be cautious of casually touching an Indian woman in small towns and villages. Even the slightest touch can have a sexual connotation. Remember that it is not unusual to encounter someone who has never seen a foreign face; attempting to shake hands with such a person may prove overwhelming to him or her. When in doubt, fold your hands in front of you, bow your head slightly, and simply say “Namaste” (pronounced nah-mah-stay).Traditionally, Indian people use the left hand as part of their toilet routine. Consequently, the left hand is considered unclean, and you should only offer your right hand when greeting someone. Don’t touch a religious object with your feet or left hand. If you wish to put your feet up in a train or other form of public transport, take your shoes off first. If you are booked

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on a higher berth and don’t want to leave your expensive shoes at floor level, put them in a plastic bag and take them up to your berth with you. If you inadvertently touch/kick someone with your foot, it’s customary to extend an apology. In fact you will notice that in some parts of India, if an Indian accidentally touches you with their foot, they will immediately follow that up with a hand gesture that first lightly brushes you with the tips of the fingers and then brings that hand up towards their chest or forehead. Even if nothing is said, this constitutes an apology. AVOIDING OFFENSE Indians love to discuss all manner of subjects, and more educated individuals will readily get into wonderfully heated debates—which may be among your most memorable moments in India. Do exercise discretion, however, when trying to understand the enigma of India’s overwhelming poverty and the caste system. Don’t harshly judge or criticize things you don’t understand fully; Indians can be quite passionate about their nation and will defend it unequivocally. Words are seldom enough to offend an Indian, but avoid strong swear words in the context of an argument or insult. And always be considerate and humble when entering a place of worship. EATING & DRINKING When eating at someone’s home, remember that it is not unusual for the woman to cook and spend the entire evening serving. Don’t interfere with this custom, and don’t try to lend a hand by venturing into the kitchen—especially if you’re a man. Foreign women will generally be treated as “honorary men” and should dine at the table unless an alternative suggestion is made. Note that the above rules apply more in orthodox homes and to a much lesser degree in modern city homes, where in fact it is polite to offer help, even if the answer is negative. Use only your right hand when eating (unless knives

and forks are used), and follow the lead of your host when you’re unsure. Don’t be afraid to ask about the food, but you must be quite firm about not drinking water (unless it’s bottled) and being mindful of salads and cut fruit (see above). Consider bringing your own bottled water with you. MIND YOUR TEMPER When confronted with bureaucracy and IST (Indian “Stretchable” Time), maintain your cool. Schedules are bound to go awry and government offices are notoriously inefficient, so there’s simply no point in losing your temper. You’d be well advised to adopt a similar attitude with wealthy and “important” Indian men who, as a matter of course, jump the line. Rather than fly into a rage, point out the lack of consideration firmly and earnestly or, better still, smile beatifically and practice a meditation technique. PHOTOGRAPHY Photography at airports or military installations is strictly forbidden, as it is at all burning ghats (crematorium sites) in Varanasi. Note that carrying a camera to attractions throughout India will add significantly to your entry fee. In touristy areas don’t be surprised if people offer to be photographed and then demand payment. SAYING YES EVEN WHEN THE ANSWER IS NO When you ask for directions, people will often send you in the wrong direction rather than admit they don’t know the way. Try not to ask questions that require a “Yes” or “No” answer, because you will almost always only hear “Yes.” In other words, rather than ask, “Is this the way to the Gateway of India?” try, “Can you tell me the way to the Gateway of India?” If the person seems hesitant when giving you directions, verify that you are going the right way by asking someone else a few minutes down the road.

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9 Specialized Travel Resources TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES Disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling, but it must be noted that India— despite the fact that it has such a high population of people with disabilities—is not well geared for travelers with disabilities. Destinations are far from wheelchair friendly, and it is hard enough for an ablebodied person to negotiate the crowded, filth-strewn, and potholed streets, where cars, animals, and rickshaws drive at will. Access to historical monuments is also difficult (though you will have the small reward of free access). Certainly you would need to be accompanied by a traveler familiar with the destination, and you must carefully sift through the accommodations options, only a handful of which have facilities specifically geared to travelers with disabilities.

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS

Veena-Beena Shopping Centre, Bandra Station Rd., Bandra, Mumbai, 400 050); or to the Gay Info Centre (P.O. Box 1662 Secunderabad HPO 500 003, Andhra Pradesh).

SENIOR TRAVEL India is not for the fainthearted, and this is definitely the one place senior travelers should utilize the services of a reliable agency and organization that targets the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (& 877/ 426-8056; www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for those ages 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in India. Most courses last 15 to 21 days and include airfare, accommodations, meals, and tuition.

FAMILY TRAVEL Just reading the list of inoculations and possible diseases in “Staying Safe” will probably make you think twice about taking your kids to India. But many do, and if the color and pageantry of India amaze adults, they will absolutely delight smaller eyes, opening them to the rich cultural texture of the world at large. What’s more, children receive the most wonderful attention, and can do no wrong in Indian eyes—for instance, restaurants are a nightmare for those who don’t like children, as kids are allowed to run roughshod and make as much noise as they want while parents look on benignly. All hotels are geared toward kids (Indian parents always travel with their children), and babysitting is generally available everywhere. On the downside of taking your family with you: the extreme heat, the likelihood of tummy trouble from the water (it’s very hard to avoid ingesting a single molecule), and the unavailability of suitable foodstuffs outside the big cities.

Homosexuality remains frowned upon in India, and the law actively outlaws sexual acts between men (although gay women do not attract this prejudicial legislation). On the other hand, Indian men are a great deal more affectionate with one another than they are with women in public, and you’ll frequently see men walking hand-in-hand, arm-in-arm, and embracing, though this is said to be an act of “brotherliness” without any sexual connotation. Recent high-profile cases have brought the issue of gay and lesbian rights into the social and political sphere, and there is increased awareness in this regard. Nevertheless, discretion is probably best observed outside your hotel room (note that no one questions the same sex sharing a room). A useful website is www.gaybombay. org, which offers information on gay venues in Mumbai. For more information and gay- and lesbian-friendly con- WOMEN TRAVELERS tacts nationwide, write to friend@gay Foreign women will almost certainly bombay.org or Bombay Dost (105A experience India as sexist, but if you are

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confident, relaxed, and assertive, you are unlikely to experience any serious hassles. That said, traveling solo is only for the very brave and thick-skinned, unless of course you’re traveling in comfort (using the accommodations selected in this book) and have hired a car and driver for the duration (using public transport is when you are at your most vulnerable). At best, you will experience being stared at intensely for an unbearable length of time, at worst you may be groped—some men are convinced that all Western women are loose and slutty. To a great extent, Western cinema and fashion trends have helped fuel the legend that women from abroad welcome these attentions, and you’d do well to take precautions, like wearing appropriate attire (see “Etiquette & Customs,” above). On trains, on buses, and in other public places, you are best off ignoring advances or questions from suspicious-looking men. Another strategy that often helps single women travelers ward off unwanted male attention is to wear a ring and invent a husband; if you’re approached, say that you are meeting your “husband” at the next station/destination. You should have little difficulty determining when a line of questioning is likely to lead to problems. In particular, steer clear of men who have been drinking alcohol. “Eve-teasing” (the word denoting unwanted attention and public harassment by men) is an offense in certain parts of India, and you are within your rights to report inappropriate advances or remarks to the police—the easiest response, however, is to loudly tell the offender off, and even strike him—you will almost certainly be supported by those around you. You may want to ask whether or not your hotel offers a special room for solo women travelers; these are now offered in a few upmarket hotels in the larger cities, and include special privacy/security features. Note that women are excluded from entering certain religious sites and attractions (which we have pointed out

wherever relevant), but this is unlikely to impact too strongly on your plans. Menstruating women are, technically, not entitled to enter Jain temples or mosques.

SINGLE TRAVELERS Many people prefer traveling alone, and solo journeys in India certainly offer infinite opportunities to meet locals keen to make friends. You will be approached almost everywhere by people (almost always men) keen to strike up conversations (see the tips in “Surviving Scams & Con Artists” earlier in this chapter, to help you distinguish between a genuine encounter and a con game). Indians are notoriously curious about visitors to their country, and their seemingly nosy line of questioning can spark a connection that will aid you throughout your trip. Besides opening conversations with lines like, “What is your good name?” or “So what is your line of service?” Indians may ask your marital status and family details because family is very important in India. The idea that someone would want to travel alone is alien to most. Don’t be offended if questions seem too personal by your standards (such as your age or father’s profession); you can always choose not to answer or give a vague reply. This natural curiosity, together with the fact that a high proportion of Indians are remarkably fluent in English, means that you are more likely to engage in lively discussions with total strangers in India than almost anywhere else. Be as curious about their country as they are about yours, but voice any judgmental or critical questions in discreet terms. Unfortunately, single travelers are always at an economic disadvantage. Single occupancy in guest rooms costs almost as much as double occupancy, and only a few hotels have specifically designated “single rooms.” Avoid this disadvantage, of course, by agreeing to room with other single travelers.

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10 Planning Your Trip Online SURFING FOR AIRFARES The “big three” online travel agencies, Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, and Orbitz.com, sell most of the air tickets bought on the Internet. (Canadian travelers should try Expedia.ca and Travelocity. ca; U.K. residents can go for Expedia. co.uk.) Each website has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares for the same flights, so shop around. Travelocity.com has a section devoted specifically to India, so you may want to begin your search there. Also be sure to check airline websites for special offers. Plus you can often shave a few bucks off a fare by booking directly through the airline online.

SURFING FOR HOTELS Most of the budget or moderate hotel recommendations do not have websites, and many hotel websites are poorly maintained, which means you may come across tariffs and information dating as

far back as the previous decade. Smaller hotels change e-mail service providers almost as often as they change sheets. For basic information on about 3,000 listed hotels in India, the website for the Federation of Hotel and Restaurant Associations of India (www.fhrai.com) can be a useful if undiscriminating resource. You’ll also come up against a plethora of accommodations booking services that presume to be direct representatives of the hotel you’re searching for, but that actually hike up the lowest available tariff considerably, which may leave you feeling ripped off before you even bed down. Always compare the website rate with the cheapest rate offered directly by the hotel before making a reservation. On the upside, several hotel networks offer unbelievable Internet discounts that simply can’t be ignored. For recommended hotel groups, websites, and essential lodging advice, see “Tips on Accommodations,” later in this chapter.

Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend Frommers. com (www.frommers.com), voted Best Travel Site by PC Magazine. We’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation giveaways, bookstore, and online-booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable. Among the special features are our popular Destinations section, where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommendations, and advice on the sights to see for more than 3,500 destinations around the globe; the Frommers.com Newsletter, with the latest deals, travel trends, and money-saving secrets; our Community area featuring Message Boards, where Frommer’s readers post queries and share advice (sometimes even our authors show up to answer questions); and our Photo Center, where you can post and share vacation tips. When your research is finished, the Online Reservations System (www.frommers.com/book_a_trip) takes you to Frommer’s preferred online partners to book your vacation at an affordable price.

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SURFING FOR RENTAL CARS It is only occasionally possible and certainly not advisable to hire a self-drive car (without a driver) in India. Driving is the most dangerous activity you can undertake, with the rules of the road (which are usually in an awful state) totally incomprehensible to an outsider, and no sign of

law enforcement. Besides, you won’t save any money by self-driving—it is often more expensive than hiring a chauffeured car. To hire a car and driver, you’re best off contacting the recommended operators or drivers listed in relevant “Getting Around” sections in each chapter; or deal directly with the local tourism office.

11 The 21st-Century Traveler INTERNET ACCESS AWAY FROM globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be HOME Travelers have any number of ways to check e-mail and access the Internet on the road. Your laptop, PDA (personal digital assistant), or electronic organizer with modem gives you the most flexibility, but you run the risk of having it stolen or lost. Best to access your e-mail from cybercafes or your hotel. All big cities in India have a host of cybercafes. Hotels Wi-Fi facilities or dataports (and well-equipped business centers) are available in all luxury city hotels in India (as well as in many hotels outside city limits). Note that the electric current is 220–240 volts AC, and that different socket and plug standards are used in different parts of the country. Although good hotels usually have multi-socket units, you should consider bringing a universal adaptor (if you’re unsure, call your hotel in advance to find out what the options are). Note that power outages are regular, as are variations in voltage, so be prepared for any eventuality.

USING A CELLPHONE The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy crossborder cellphones. If your cellphone is on a GSM system and you have a worldcapable (tri-band) phone such as many (but not all) Nokia, Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across much of the

activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high— up to $5. World-phone owners can bring down per-minute charges with a bit of trickery. Call your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to “unlock” your phone to use it with a local provider. Usually, they’ll oblige. Then, pick up a cheap, prepaid phone SIM card at a mobile phone store or at tens of thousands of shops throughout the length and breadth of India, and slip it into your phone. (Show your phone to the salesperson, as not all phones work on all networks.) You’ll get a local phone number in your destination country, and much, much lower calling rates. Then you can refill your talk time by purchasing a prepaid refill when you need it. Note that if you don’t have a compatible phone, you can buy a decent cellphone for Rs 3,000 to Rs 4,000 ($68–$90) in India—buy from an authorized dealer who will give you a receipt and warranty. Later, when you leave the country, you can usually sell the phone for half what you paid for it at a local vendor dealing in secondhand phones, found everywhere in Delhi and Mumbai. Alternatively, you can buy a CDMA (Code Division Multiple Access) prepaid phone in India. Reliance IndiaMobile (www.reliance info.com) has the largest countrywide network, and you can pick up a low-end

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phone for Rs 3,000 ($68). Note, however, that some low-end phones have difficultto-use software; the most user-friendly ones are usually Nokia models. Once you have this phone, you can prepay a balance, and refill it when necessary. Phone calls are charged at about Rs 2.50 (5¢) per minute within India and Rs 17 (40¢) per minute for international calls. The disadvantage of the CDMA is that once you are ready to go home, the phone has no value and has to be discarded. Otherwise, you can rent a phone in India—but because of security reasons,

mobile phone rental is currently not widely available in India; you’ll need copies of your passport and go through other security checks, as well as make a hefty deposit. Most five-star hotels will rent a phone to you at a fairly high rate. If Delhi is your gateway, call Matrix (& 011/2680-0000) to rent a phone; in Mumbai call Colorama Centre (& 022/2204-0362), located in the Hilton Towers hotel. You’ll pay about Rs 50 to Rs 150 ($1.15–$3.40) per day for the handset, Rs 2 to Rs 6 (4¢–12¢) per minute for calls within India, and Rs 22 (50¢) per minute for international calls.

12 Discovering Spiritual India However you choose to spend your time in India, you are unlikely to return home unaffected by your sojourn here. Indeed, you are likely to find a moment of enlightenment in the most unexpected places, whether you’re engaged in conversation with a shopkeeper over a cup of chai or people-watching on a suffocatingly crowded city street. But for generations visitors have come to India specifically seeking some sort of spiritual transformation, and the increasing plethora of first-rate accommodations and Western-style food options are making it easier than ever—and in some ways more difficult, by cocooning travelers from unvarnished India. Basic yoga classes are conducted in many hotels all over the country, but those of you who want to stretch more than a few muscles can attend anything from 5-day to 5-month programs. Similarly with meditation: Various techniques and methods are taught around the country, but in order to truly gain an understanding of these, you should spend at least a week in study and practice. But the best way to experience and improve your skills in either or both of these disciplines—and possibly find true bliss or meaning in life through a spiritual leader—is to spend time at an ashram, where philosophical (or religious, depending on where you go) discourse accompanies a meditation and/or yoga program.

There are innumerable ashrams all over the country, some the domain of a dynamic guru (the teacher whose role it is to assist the spiritual awakening of devotees); while others (like the Vipassana centers; see below) are not driven by a single personality. In the following paragraphs we discuss where you can go to study and practice classic spiritual disciplines during your trip to India. MEDITATION One of India’s most ancient meditation techniques is Vipassana, which translates as “seeing things as they really are.” Taught at 10-day residential courses at many centers around the country, this program is not for the fickle—during the course of the program you must adhere to a strict code of conduct, such as consuming nothing after midday. For many, however, the hardest part of the course is the rule of absolute silence, in which you’re not allowed to speak (or read) a word for the first 9 days. The lack of any form of entertainment or sensory stimulation as well is meant to assist true inner awakening. This is certainly one of the most authentic meditation programs you will find anywhere, and one not based on devotion to a single guru or charismatic personality. The course is also absolutely free with no charges for food and board. Check out www.dhamma.org for more details.

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For meditation in the Tibetan Mahayana Buddhist tradition, Tushita Meditation Centre (www.tushita.info), a few kilometers north of Mcleodganj, offers short- and long-term programs for beginners as well as the experienced. Unlike Vipassana courses, which are more or less secular and nonsectarian, Tushita courses include teaching of Buddhist philosophy and religion as well as different meditation techniques. If all this sounds too committed, Sudarshan Kriya, the revered Sri Sri Ravi Shankar’s highly acclaimed breathing and meditation technique, can be learned through courses conducted by The Art of Living Foundation throughout India. This foundation, with a large yuppie following, is also well-known for stress-relief Ayurvedic medicine and other wellness programs. Students are not required to undergo any physical hardship, and courses are offered in large cities, after which you can return at night to the comfort of your five-star hotel room. For more information, see Bangalore in chapter 8 or visit www.artofliving.org. YOGA For seriously dedicated yoga students willing to make a commitment of at least a month, the country has several well-known centers. Be aware, however, that at most of these places, room facilities are rather basic. The Bihar School of Yoga has an ashram on the banks of the Ganga in Munger, Bihar, where students come from around the world, usually for at least 4 months (www.yogavision.net). Requiring at least 1 month of dedicated practice is the hugely popular (and highly regarded) Ashtanga Yoga Nilayam in Mysore, where the fee of $600 for the first month (less for subsequent months) is heftier than most, and does not include room and board (see www.ayri.org). For yoga in the tradition of that most famous of Indian yoga gurus, BKS Iyengar, you can contact the regional center in Mumbai.

The courses at the Pune headquarters are only for long-term yoga experts and are booked up to 2 years in advance (www. bksiyengar.com). Less intensive, and more flexible for the traveler, is the Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre (www.hiyogacentre. com), located near Dharamsala (near Dharamkot). Run seasonally (closed during the monsoon season), this visitorfriendly organization has retreats in two locations: in Goa right on the sand dunes at Arambol Beach, and in Dharamsala, an hour’s drive from the center. ASHRAMS For those travelers intent on working on their dharma and karma, destinations like Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Bodhgaya (Bihar), Rishikesh, and Haridwar (both in Uttaranchal) have numerous centers, each providing some direction to an individuals’ spiritual quest. In Rishikesh, the Divine Life Society welcomes daily visitors to its ashram on the banks of the Ganga; it professes to embrace the essential truth found in all the religions of the world. Chanting continues 24 hours a day (check the website www.divinelifesoity.org for details). In Bodhgaya, the Root Institute runs 6- to 12-day courses and retreats in Buddhist philosophy and spiritual awakening meant to bring peace and happiness to daily life. You can also attend 1-day workshops and take short courses on topics such as how to meditate, peaceful living and dying, and transforming problems into happiness. Accommodations are available at the institute. You can also find programs offered by more well-known groups, such as ISKCON (Hare Krishna; www.iskcon. com), Ramakrishna Mission (www. sriramakrishna.org), and Aurobindo Ashram (www.sriaurobindoashram.org) in Pondicherry, as well as gurus with large, worldwide followings such as Amritanandamayi of Kerala (www.amritapuri.org). Arguably the most upmarket ashram in India is Osho International Resort in

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the city of Pune (near Mumbai; www. osho.com). It’s aimed at those who simply won’t find their spirit unless they are surrounded by plenty of attentive red-robed staff and stylish design (with the requisite Barcelona chairs and 50 acres styled on the Japanese water garden concept, with “Zennis” courts, so pack a racquet). At Rs 2,750 ($63) per day, you can stay in the ashram at the Osho guesthouse, or you’re welcome to find cheaper accommodations outside and attend the ashram activities throughout the day. For a deeper, more authentic experience—spiritually and culturally—Sri Ramanasramam is 3 hours west of Chennai, in Tiruvannamalai, Tamil Nadu (www.ramana-maharshi.org). Rooms are small, basic, and cheap, but you will have to book 1 month in advance. Another fairly upmarket ashram, one with a strong following among Westerners, is run by the Siddha Yoga foundation at Ganeshpuri, also near Mumbai (www.siddha yoga.org). Note that this ashram does not encourage casual tourists dropping in; you have to be in touch with their programs to be allowed onto the beautiful walled estate. A note of caution: Although all the yoga and meditation centers listed here

13 Getting There BY PLANE Most major airline carriers have flights to India. It’s a good idea to shop around for fares or make use of a consolidator that hunts for the cheapest available seats on your travel dates. From North America Count on spending between 18 and 22 hours traveling if you fly directly to India; you’ll have to touch down at least once in Europe, the Gulf, or an Asian destination. With flights from the U.S. or Canada, the following airlines all offer service to India:

are legitimate, care should be taken before embarking on any spiritual journey in India. (If you don’t believe us, read Gita Mehta’s Karma Cola [Vintage Books], an acerbic and witty investigation into the way in which unscrupulous gurus market Indian spirituality to credulous Westerners in search of something more “enlightened.”) There are some who feel that spiritual teaching should come free, while others argue that spiritualism is being packaged for Westerners in a way they can relate to, and performs basically the same function as a psychotherapist might in the West. Most importantly: Be aware that literally thousands of gurus and ashrams, “pseudo” or “real,” are spread all over the country, some of whose principal aim is to part you from your money or, in worst-case scenarios, to sexually exploit you. Principally, be suspicious of two things: gurus who claim to have supernatural or magical “powers” or are “miracle workers,” and those who ask for hefty donations. Check credentials and make your choice wisely. And having made your choice, feel free to leave instantly if you feel you are being taken advantage of or if events are crossing the line you consider rational or reasonable.

British Airways (& 800/247-9297; www.british-airways.com); Virgin Atlantic (& 800/821-5438; www.virginatlantic.com) via London; Air-India (& 800-223-7776; www.airindia.com); KLM/Northwest (& 800/447-4747; www.nwa.com); Lufthansa (& 800/6453880 in the U.S., 800/563-5954 in Canada; www.lufthansa.com); and Air France (& 800/237-2747 in the U.S., 800/667-2747 in Canada; www.airfrance. com). Air Canada (& 888-712-7786) flies directly from Vancouver to Delhi with a touchdown in London. From other Canadian hubs, you’ll fly to London or

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Zurich, where you pick up the connecting flight to Delhi. From the U.K. Flights are usually cheaper if you’re prepared to change to a connecting flight in continental Europe or in the Middle East; a number of European airlines (such as KLM and Alitalia) will get you there affordably if you don’t mind a change of planes. British Airways (& 0870-850-9-850; www.ba.com) has daily direct flights to both Delhi and Mumbai, and occasional direct flights to Kolkata and Chennai. Air-India (& 0208-745-1000 or 020/ 8560-9996; www.airindia.com) is the national carrier operating regular nonstop flights to Delhi and Mumbai. Virgin Atlantic (& 0870-574-7747) operates nonstop flights to Mumbai three times a week, while British Midland (& 08706070-222) offers them four times a week. India’s best domestic carrier, Jet Airways (& 0870-9101-000; www.jetairways. com), has also recently introduced daily nonstop flights between London and Mumbai. Emirates (& 0870/243-2222; www. emirates.com) flies to Mumbai, Delhi, and Cochin, via Dubai. KLM UK (& 0870/243-0541; www.klmuk.com) operates flights from all over Britain to Amsterdam, where you pick up your connection with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (www.klm.com) to Delhi. Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.co.uk) has flights to Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore, and Amritsar through Frankfurt. From Australia & New Zealand You can’t fly directly to India from either

Australia or New Zealand, and you will more than likely be offered a flight package that incorporates more than one airline. The majority of touchdowns and changeovers are in Malaysia, Thailand, and Singapore. The following airlines offer service to India: Singapore Airlines (& 13-1011 in Australia; www.singaporeair.com); Qantas (& 13-1313 or 29-691-3636 in Australia, 0800/80-8767 or 09/375-8900 in New Zealand; www.qantas.com). From South Africa: South African Airways (& 0861-359-722; www.flysaa. com) flies nonstop to Mumbai several times a week from Johannesburg.

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTS India has several international airports: Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata (Calcutta), Chennai, Trivandrum, Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Amritsar, and Cochin. Mumbai (Bombay) receives the greatest amount of international traffic and is the best point of arrival for onward travel to Goa, South India, or Gujarat. Be warned, however, that Mumbai airport facilities are poor. Most Mumbai flights arrive late at night, so be wary of booking “immediate” onward domestic flights; you don’t want to spend any significant amount of time waiting at the airport. Delhi’s international airport—the principal starting point for journeys throughout North India, including the Himalayan regions and Rajasthan as well as east India—is substantially better. Only fly in to Kolkata (Calcutta) if you plan to explore east India exclusively.

14 Customized Tours for the Independent Traveler PACKAGE TOURS Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, consider booking your flight as part of a travel package. Package tours (not to be confused with escorted tours) are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations,

and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices—one-stop shopping that saves you money but allows for independent travel.

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RECOMMENDED OPERATORS FOR CUSTOMIZED PACKAGE & ADVENTURE TOURS If you’re happy to pay good money for a very well-organized deluxe tailored tour, Abercrombie & Kent (www.abercrombie kent.com) are the masters, not only choosing the most expensive accommodations options, but the best (there is often a difference!). The company also specializes in putting together trekking trips and packages that tap into India’s great wildlife resources—in comfort, of course. The only drawback is that always traveling in style can cocoon you from the raw experiences that make India such a memorable experience. For this, consider a tour that includes houseboat and private homestays in Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Haryana on tours organized by Colours of India (www.colours-ofindia.co.uk); the selection is very exciting. Another Indian stalwart is Cox & Kings (www.coxandkings.com) who, like Abercrombie & Kent, work hard to create a really relaxing top-end holiday (rather than the hard work that India can be), tailor-made to personal preferences. Another good upmarket agency, specializing in customized travel itineraries, is Western & Oriental (www.westernoriental.com). A highly recommended option if you’re traveling on a budget (or even if you have money to burn) is Raj Singh, proprietor of Exotic Journeys, who arranges tailor-made tours throughout India—you can literally contact him and tell him your area of interest and a daily limit, and he will come up with the goods (2 weeks in Rajasthan, Agra, Delhi: upwards of $50 per person per day including accommodations, entry fees, and private car and driver!). Contact him

at [emailprotected] or at & 011/ 2617-8685. A U.S.-based travel agency specializing in India is United Fairfax Travel/Manaca Travel and Tours (9864 Main St., Fairfax, VA; & 703-591-3544; vnegi@ufxtravel. com). Owned by Vinod Negi, this very professional outfit is able to plan a comprehensive itinerary and make all travel arrangements. Vinod is also extremely flexible; once you’re on the road, any changes you want made are dealt with efficiently. Vinod deals directly with local agency India Travelite, located at 50H, Vandhna Building 11, Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi. Another reliable local operator is Sita World Travel for both individually tailored and escorted tours (www.sitaindia.com). Goa-based Odyssey Tours & Travels is also a highly dependable agent that arranges individual and customized tours all over India; check them out at www. traveljadoo.com, or e-mail director Hans Tuinman at [emailprotected]. Audley Travel (www.audleytravel.com) is a recommended U.K.-based outfit. If you’re specifically looking for an agent for trekking, try Trans Indus Travel (www. transindus.co.uk), although their itineraries are not limited to outdoor excursions. Steppes East Ltd. (www.steppeseast.co.uk) is another reputable option; they let you conveniently create your personal itinerary online. Wilderness Travel (www. wildernesstravel.com) specializes in Rajasthan camel safaris and elephant expeditions. Other Himalayan trekking outfits are Mountain Travel/Sobek (www. mtsobek.com), Geographic Expeditions (www.geoex.com), and Adventure Center (www.adventurecenter.com); the latter two also have general adventure expeditions.

15 Escorted Tours Escorted tours are structured group tours meals, tours, admission costs, and local with a group leader. The price usually transportation. includes everything from airfare to hotels,

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Many people (particularly those with limited mobility) derive a certain ease and security from escorted trips, and many tours let you see the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle or worry. On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit upfront, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. As part of a crowd of tourists, you’ll get little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure—plus they often focus only on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on the lesser-known gems. Before you invest in an escorted tour, ask about the cancellation policy and think strongly about purchasing trip-cancellation insurance, especially if the tour operator asks you to pay upfront. See the section on “Travel Insurance,” earlier in this chapter. You’ll also want to get a complete schedule of the trip to find out how much sightseeing is planned each day and whether enough time has been allotted for relaxing or for wandering solo. The size and demographics of the group are also important to know upfront. Generally, the smaller the group, the more flexible the itinerary, and the less time you’ll spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. Discuss what is included and excluded in the price. Also check the accommodations choices by looking up the reviews in a Frommer’s guide (and do check rates to see if you’re getting good value). For small, high-end, exotic bird-watching tours of India, look no further than Victor Emanuel Nature Tours (www. ventbird.com), based in Austin, Texas; the tours are usually sold out as soon as they come online. Victor often includes

the “Palace on Wheels,” a weeklong journey through Rajasthan (including Agra) in a luxury train; for standard Palace on Wheels tours, see “Getting Around India,” below. Dagmar von Harryegg is based in Australia but is passionate about India, particularly the desert states of Rajasthan and Gujarat, where she has developed an extensive network of contacts and friends, from elephant mahouts to reclusive princes. She offers personally tailored special-interest trips (anything from yoga or bird-watching to Bollywood and/or classical dance lessons) for a maximum of eight travelers—preferably friends, thereby ensuring a flexible timetable “cruising in wonderfully oldfashioned Ambassador limousines with overnight stays in off-the-beaten-track destinations.” She also arranges large Hindi-style traditional weddings for couples looking for a really memorable nuptial celebration. Most trips take off in Delhi and can include a visit to the Taj Mahal. For information, contact Dagmar at [emailprotected]. For midrange and budget tours, U.K.based Imaginative Traveller is popular for its escorted tours for a maximum group size of 15 (www.imaginative-traveller.com). One of India’s foremost tourism operators, Sita World Travel (called SOTC in some places) is represented throughout the length and breadth of India. Sita offers a wide range of tours to cover a range of budgets and interests. These include sightseeing trips and excursions to India’s top attractions, as well as softadventure and special-interest tours that can really get you off the beaten track (www.e-holidaysindia.com). Note that many of the recommended individual and adventure operators listed above offer escorted group tours.

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16 Getting Around India BY CAR India’s roads are statistically the most dangerous in the world; renting your own car and attempting to traverse the chaos that passes for traffic is simply suicidal. That said, having your own vehicle—and a driver who knows the roads, can read road signs when they’re present, and can communicate with locals—is in many ways the best way to get around. You can set your own pace, without having to worry about making public-transport connections (a major headache taken care of ), and you can see the sights and experience many of the attractions without feeling anxious (your driver will be a huge help in providing advice on customs and pricing), as well as experience off-thebeaten-track towns and rural scenes that give you the only sense of real India. And by American and European standards, the luxury of being chauffeured around the country—not necessarily in a highend luxury vehicle, keep in mind—is ridiculously cheap. Certainly this is the way to go to concentrate on certain parts of India, such as Rajasthan, but it’s not advisable as a way to cover long-distance journeys—aim to spend no more than 3 to 4 hours a day in the car (there will be, of course, exceptions). Note: Whatever you do, make sure your plan does not include traveling at night. What kind of car? Standard cars are often antique-looking and very romantic Ambassadors, tough cars despite their appearance, but sometimes unpredictable; don’t rely on them for long outof-town journeys—better perhaps to opt for a modern vehicle like the little Indica. A vehicle with off-road capabilities is essential in some of the more remote and hilly regions, including eastern Himachal Pradesh, Ladakh, Sikkim, and parts of Uttaranchal; it is also recommended for some of the awful road conditions in

Madhya Pradesh and Karnataka, for example, where there may be more potholes than patches of tarmac. Air-conditioned vehicles cost more but are always recommended because you may want to keep windows closed in order to shut out the endless traffic noise and pollution. How much will it cost? Charges for this sort of car hire vary considerably. Use a hotel rental service, and you stand the chance of forking out exorbitant fees— although the vehicle and quality of service will generally be top-notch. At the other end of the scale, you can walk up to a driver in the street, negotiate an excellent deal, and spend the rest of your vacation watching the tires being changed. It’s always a good idea to start by contacting the Tourist Development Corporation in whatever state you wish to hire a car (contact details are in individual chapters). Their rates are usually reasonable and fixed; you’ll be spared the battle of the haggle; and you won’t have to live with the misery of being overcharged. We provide price indications in individual chapters, but a good way to estimate how much a vehicle should cost for a multiday run is to calculate three things: a) the approximate distance you will travel multiplied by the per-kilometer rate; b) an overnight charge of Rs 150 to Rs 300 ($3.45–$6.85) per night, plus state taxes, tolls, and across-state permits and fees; and c) the mileage for the car to return to its place of origin, even if it returns empty. Each chapter lists travel agencies that can assist you with car rental, many with their own fleet of vehicles and drivers; if the price doesn’t seem right, shop around. Finally, when it comes to tipping your driver, a fair amount is Rs 100 to Rs 150 ($2.30–$3.45) for each day he’s been with you. If you feel you got exemplary service and want to give him more, however, by

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all means give him what you feel he deserves. If, on the other hand, you’ve had to tolerate a surly, uncooperative, and inefficient chauffeur, make sure you let the agency know, and reflect it in the tip as you see fit. Tip: Your car driver may sometimes drive you around for an hour in a new city rather than do the sensible thing and ask for directions. Remember, in most cities the best people to ask for directions are usually auto-rickshaw or taxi drivers, so insist that your driver ask one of them if you appear to be lost. If you are on foot, however, more often than not if you ask a rickshaw or cab driver for directions, he’ll probably tell you your destination is “too far” and that you need to hire his services. Bear in mind that if you are involved in an accident, it’s best to get out of your vehicle and away from the scene without delay, inform your rental agency or hotel immediately, and have them inform local authorities. An accident involving the injury or death of a cow or person may result in a mob assault on all occupants of the offending vehicle as well as its incineration. Taxis & Auto-rickshaws These modes of transport are the ways to go within your chosen city or town. Auto-rickshaws are best for short journeys only, being slow, bumpy, and open-air—in other words, open to pollution. Always, always negotiate the rate upfront, having established the average going rate (unless the driver is using a “meter reading chart,” in which case check it carefully, and make sure he is not using the night 11pm–5am chart, when charges are higher). We have tried to indicate these rates throughout, but given the potential escalation in fuel costs, it’s best to ask about the going rate (your hotel or host should know) and figure out a fixed price for a given journey. To get from the station or airport to your hotel, use the prepaid taxi booths; remember to hand over your receipt only after reaching your destination. Be aware

that in some cities it’s a toss-up between forcing the driver to use his meter, only to be taken for a citywide spin, and agreeing to a slightly higher than normal price and being taken from A to B. Remember: Carry your passport at all times—many of the borders between states have checkpoints where passports may be checked. Also always have with you at least one photocopy of your passport and visa and four to five passportsize photographs; you will need them for permits and other unforeseen bureaucratic paperwork, like getting a prepaid SIM card for a cellphone.

BY PLANE Because train travel is time-consuming, amenities like clean toilets usually lacking, and roads generally appalling, the best way to cover distances is by air. The best airline by far is Jet Airways (www. jetairways.com), with its fleet of new planes, First-World service, and good connections (it’s rapidly on track in its goal to link almost every significant destination in the country). If you have to use the state-run carrier, Indian Airlines (http://indian-airlines.nic.in), you will find that it leaves much to be desired in terms of reliability, cleanliness, and service, but it does get you where you want to go, with the subcontinent’s most extensive network. Of the smaller carriers, Air Sahara (www.airsahara.net) is the best established and often offers excellent deals despite the fact that it doesn’t cover all major destinations. Note that on these airlines, foreigners have to pay a dollar airfare that is higher than the regular rupee fare. The recently launched Kingfisher Airlines (& 1600/180-0101; www.flyking fisher.com) operates with brand-new aircraft and a young cabin crew. At press time it was operating only between Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, and Goa, but its network was expanding fast.

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Both Jet Airways and Indian Airlines offer special unlimited travel programs that allow multiple flights over a certain period of time. These cost $630 for 15 days, and $895 for 21 days; backtracking is not permitted. A similar package costing $320 on Jet Airways covers a week’s worth of travel but only within particular regional zones, while Indian Airlines gives you seven flight coupons for $400, valid for 7 days (restrictions apply). Children under 12 pay half, while those under 2 pay only 10% of the dollar fare. Passengers between ages 12 and 30 can receive a 25% youth discount on dollar fares; you are required to submit a copy of the main page of your passport when paying in order to qualify. More recently, a slew of low-cost airlines have been launched, making air travel in India much cheaper and providing more options. Most importantly, these airlines have standard fares that anyone can buy, and foreigners don’t have to pay a special higher dollar fare. You can certainly save money with these airlines—but don’t expect top-notch service. Currently operating are Air Deccan (& 98925-77008 or 080/3900-8888; www.airdeccan.net) and Spice Jet (& 1600-180-3333; www.spice jet.com), with several other no-frills outfits

Tips

likely to join the ranks by 2006. Look for names like IndiGo, Air One, Indus Air, Magic Airlines, and Kerala Airways. India’s domestic and international check-in and preboarding procedure may be one of the most rigorous in the world. Technically, check-in will start 180 minutes prior to international departure, and you need to produce a ticket before being allowed access to the airport building (if you plan to purchase your ticket inside the airport, speak to a security officer, who will escort you to the appropriate ticket counter). Arriving less than 60 minutes prior to domestic departure is definitely not recommended. Your checked baggage must be scanned and sealed before you report to the check-in counter. The list of dangerous items not permitted in your carry-on bags is fairly extensive; you will be asked to remove batteries from your camera, and these will be stowed by security until you reach your destination. Check-in closes 30 minutes prior to departure. After checkin, you should immediately head for the first security check, which will involve a body pat-down and a scan of your carryon luggage. Boarding gates close 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure (although delays are fairly frequent), and

Winter Fog

In January, parts of northern India are often enveloped in thick fog at night and early in the morning, usually passing once the sun comes out. If you plan to take a road journey and visibility seems poor, ask your hotel concierge’s advice before departing (and make sure your car has fog headlights). If necessary, make the wise decision to delay departure, even if your driver insists (and many do) that he has no problem driving in zero visibility. In Delhi the fog sometimes causes flight delays or cancellations; most airlines have a fog helpline during this time where you get updates on the status of your flight (check the dailies or use the general numbers we’ve supplied). Also note that most international flights leave India in the middle of the night so that they can arrive at European/North American destinations in daylight. If, because of the fog, your international flight cannot depart in time to arrive at your destination before the airport closes, your flight can be canceled or rerouted.

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Tips

Train Booking Simplified

Even though you will be told that there are no special lines or windows for foreigners who want to book train tickets, we assure you that this is not the case. More important, most trains have a quota of seats specifically for foreigners. This means that even if a train is completely booked up, as a foreigner you may be able to get a seat, unless other foreigners booking through the same service have already filled the seat quota. This is valuable information to keep in mind, because an agent cannot book a seat for you on this quota, nor can this be booked from the regular booking window; you must go personally to a Foreign Tourist Rail Reservation Counter (sometimes called Foreign Tourist Bureaus) with your passport, and pay either in foreign currency (cash or credit card) or show a currency encashment certificate or ATM receipt. The ticket costs exactly the same as the regular ticket (except for credit card surcharges). Train stations at the following Indian cities have a Foreign Tourist Rail Reservation Counter: Agra-Cantonment, Ahmedabad, Aurangabad, Bangalore, Chennai, New Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Kolkata, Mumbai, Secunderabad, Vadodara, Varanasi, and Vasco-Da-Gama (Goa). There’s also a counter at the Delhi Tourism & Transport Development Corporation office at Indira Gandhi International Airport in the Arrivals lounge. In Mumbai, this office is tucked away next to the Government Tourist Office, on the first floor of the Western Railway Building, opposite Churchgate Station.

there will be second body and carry-on checks before you are permitted to board the plane. In some instances, you will be asked to identify your checked luggage on the tarmac. While frequent travelers may be irritated by these ungainly, time-consuming methods, others find the process provides peace of mind. Tip: Always have your concierge (or yourself to be sure) reconfirm your flight at least 72 hours before departure to save yourself the frustration of arriving at the airport only to find that your name has been deleted from the computer.

BY TRAIN India’s rail network is the second largest in the world, and you can pretty much get anywhere in the country by train. That said, train journeys between major destinations can consume massive amounts of time (often more than car travel); and the

network, tiers (one of the A/C, or air-conditioned classes may, for instance, be better than first class), and connections can be confusing. It’s best to determine well in advance whether or not your destination is accessible from your point of origin and which tier is the most comfortable, and then factor in delays; some slow trains stop at every two-hut village along the way, and this can extend traveling time by hours. Generally, you should only consider long-distance train travel if you are assured of exotic scenery (like the Konkan Railway, which connects Mumbai with Goa, Karnataka, and Kerala, running along the Konkan coast); or if the journey is overnight (like Delhi to Varanasi) and you have reserved a first-class air-conditioned sleeper or second-class air-conditioned sleeper berth, preferably the two-tier variety. (Never book regular second class, which can be torturous, claustrophobic,

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and distressing if you are at all intimidated by crowds.) You will be particularly comfortable aboard the overnight Rajdhani— the superfast train connects Delhi to Mumbai for Rs 2,210 ($50) or to Kolkata (Howrah) for Rs 2,335 ($54) in the twotier A/C (air-conditioned) class; it also connects Delhi with Chennai, Bangalore, Bhubaneswar, Thiruvananthapuram, Abu Road, Ahmedabad, and Ajmer. The best daytime travel train is the Shatabdi; these intercity trains have several routes between important tourist destinations (Delhi to Amritsar: Rs 635/$14; Mumbai to Madgaon (Goa): Rs 675/$15; Delhi to Jaipur: Rs 495/$11). Book a seat in the air-conditioned Chair Car class; small meals, tea, coffee, and bottled water are included in the ticket price, and seats are comfortable and clean. For extensive railway information, log on to www.indianrail.gov.in, which shows routes, availability, and prices for all Indian trains. Purchasing tickets usually requires some advance planning, and it’s a good idea to make all-important ticket reservations (particularly for overnight travel) before you leave for India, especially if you’re coming during peak holiday season. Alternatively, you can make ticket reservations

through your hotel or an agent (usually for a relatively small fee), or you can brave the possibility of long lines and silly form-filling at the train station; that said, check out “Train Booking Simplified,” below, to see if the station you’re heading to has a counter set up especially for foreigners. Not only is this an easy way to book your seat, it may be the only way to secure tickets when trains are completely full and agents can do nothing to assist. Indian Railways Indrail Pass is a “discount” ticket for unlimited travel over a specific number of days (for example, airconditioned chair car/first and second class: 7 days $135), but these still require reservations and are only likely to benefit travelers who expect to make two or more long-distance journeys in a short time. In every chapter we have included telephone numbers for railway stations, but don’t expect too much information from these, if indeed you are even able to get through. Tip: To avoid unnecessary stress while traveling by train (particularly on overnight journeys), use a chain and padlock to secure your luggage and fasten it to some part of your berth or cabin. Be sensible,

The Romance of Rail: India’s Special Train Journeys India’s most famous luxury train, Palace on Wheels, currently operates in Rajasthan, and has 14 opulently furnished en-suite saloons, a bar, and two restaurants (& U.S./Canada toll-free 1-888-INDIA-99; www.palaceonwheels. net; $770 double per night). Over 7 days, the train travels from Delhi to Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambhore), Chittaurgarh, Udaipur, Bharatpur, and Agra; and finishes its trip back in Delhi. Getting to the hill stations of Shimla (Himachal Pradesh), Darjeeling (West Bengal), and Ooty (Tamil Nadu) can be a scenic novelty if you don’t mind spending long hours traveling in the atmospheric “toy trains” that chug their ways along narrow-gauge tracks to high altitudes by way of an endless series of hairpin loops—fabulous views are guaranteed. And then, of course, there is the Konkan Railway, which runs along the Malabar coast and has truly wonderful scenery almost every click-clack of the way.

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and don’t leave valuables lying around stops at roadside truck stops along the while you sleep. way will have you arriving at your destination bleary-eyed and exhausted, wonBY BUS dering why you’ve opted for a holiday in Unless you are on a serious budget and hell. On some routes (such as traveling in India for months, we recom- Delhi–Jaipur or Cochin–Bangalore), the mend you avoid all forms of bus travel. exception is the comfortable “Volvo” bus Often crammed full of commuters, state- with good suspension. Another exception operated buses are driven at blood-cur- is the Manali-to-Leh route, where the dling speeds along dangerous and Trans-Himalayan scenery is jaw-droppunishing roads. Numerous so-called pingly awesome, and an overnight stop in deluxe or luxury buses, operated by pri- tents is part of the deal (see chapter 11). vate companies, often ply similarly danNote: Buses in India do not have gerous routes overnight. You may be onboard toilets (thankfully, given the state tempted to save time and money with of so many of these on trains), so stops are this option, but be aware that safety is usually at grimy roadside dhabas (local rarely a priority, and sleeping is almost diners) or just along the side of the road. impossible thanks to generally uncomfortable seating and/or noise. Regular

17 Tips on Accommodations One of the best developments in the past decade has been the increase in luxury boutique-type options offering international standards of service and comfort, and flavored with Indian accents—like beautiful craftsmanship and ancient traditions (we’re talking Ayurvedic masseurs on tap)—which means that the subcontinent is now a very desirable destination for the visitor wanting relaxation and pampering. A few independent hotels have sprung up, such as Nilaya Hermitage (Goa) and Devi Garh (outside Udaipur), and ultraluxe Amanresorts have entered the fray with two new properties in Rajasthan, but the pace was first set by the Vilas properties, owned by India’s very own, very fabulous Oberoi chain. Besides the Vilas properties (the best of which are Amarvilas in Agra, and Rajvilas in Jaipur, though some rate Udaivilas in Udaipur as their top choice), Oberoi runs some of the very best city hotels, as well as several spa resorts in key tourist destinations and a luxury backwater cruiser in Kerala. You will pay top dollar, but you can generally count on superb service and attention to detail. Best

of all, you can often get great discounts on room rates by reserving in advance over the Internet (www.oberoihotels.com). Note that Oberoi also operates a tier of smaller, less opulent hotels under the Trident Hilton banner, aimed principally at business or family travelers. India’s other famous hotel chain is the Taj Group (www.tajhotels.com), with an enormous inventory of properties, particularly in South India, where Oberoi is largely absent. Quality varies somewhat (and service does not match that of the Oberoi group), but comfort is generally guaranteed, particularly in big cities and resort destinations—the best properties are the Taj Mahal in Mumbai and Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur. Tip: Be aware that any hovel will attach “palace” to its name in the hopes that this may attract more customers. This is often amusing if you’re walking past, but disastrous if you’re checking in. HERITAGE HOTELS Staying in a medieval palace or fort is a unique and wonderful option among India’s accommodations (particularly in Rajasthan),

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especially when your host is the aristocrat whose forebears built the palace or fort in which you’re overnighting; the best are discussed in detail in relevant sections throughout this guide. Many were built centuries ago, so it’s not surprising that heritage hotels are seldom the most luxurious option, with the possibilities of many stairs, dodgy plumbing, low ceilings, strange room layouts, and other eccentricities. Acting principally as marketing agencies for privately owned palaces, forts, and havelis (Indian mansions), as well as a number of small resorts around the country (primarily North India), two websites worth checking out are www.indianheritagehotels.com and www.heritagehotels.com. Most heritage properties are individually owned, but a group that enjoys an excellent reputation for selecting and renovating these is Neemrana; check out www.neemranahotels.com to view their select collection of really lovely boutique heritage hotels, often located in off-thebeaten-track destinations; rates generally represent excellent value for these atmospheric gems. BEST OF KERALA In Kerala, the Casino group of hotels (www.cghearth. com) is committed to investing in ecologically sound resorts that combine great comfort, friendly and professional service, unpretentious charm, and beautiful natural settings. Also based in Kerala, TourIndia Holidays (www.tourindiakerala.com) is run by entrepreneur Babu Varghese, who came up with the popular “backwater houseboat” concept. TourIndia Holidays also offers the best opportunity to overnight in a tent in the heart of the Periyar Reserve. CITY HOTELS The biggest problem in big cities and popular tourist areas is that the good hotels are often priced way out of reach, while moderate options are thin on the ground. Mid-range hotels are substandard by Western standards,

though considerably cheaper. Wherever possible, we’ve provided budget options that are scrupulously clean and moderately comfortable. It’s worth keeping an eye out for a new chain of budget hotels called IndiOne; launched by the Taj group and catering specially to the middling business market, these 100-room “Smart Basics” hotels offer accommodations priced at just Rs 950 ($22) for a double (limited number available). They won’t have any of the opulence of the Taj hotels; in fact, rooms are small and rather plain in design, albeit comfortable and with all the amenities, including an ATM in the hotel. IndiOne Hotels (www. indionehotels.com) has already opened in Bangalore, and will soon be operating in Nashik, Mysore, Haridwar, Panjim, Bhubaneswar, Varanasi, Trivandrum, Jamshedpur, and Durgapur. Most of the top-of-the-range city hotels are operated by major international chains, including many of the usual suspects: Sheraton (www.starwoodhotels. com), Hyatt (www.hyatt.com), Radisson (www.radisson.com), Le Meridien (www. lemeridien.com), Nikko Hotels (www. nikkohotels.com), and Marriott (www. marriott.com). THE RATING SYSTEM India’s hotel rating system refers to size and facilities on offer, not to the potential quality of your stay. Often the best hotels have no rating because they are heritage properties and—despite their overwhelming loveliness—don’t conform to the norms laid down by India’s tourism department. Tip: One hotel chain to avoid is the socalled “five-star deluxe” governmentoperated Ashok group. Most of its properties have “five-star facilities” and an inventory of hundreds of rooms, but they are often decaying concrete blocks with disinterested staff. In fact, as a general rule of thumb, government-run properties are best avoided throughout the country.

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Of Hotels & Taxes Almost every hotel in India will quote a rate to which an additional uniform, countrywide value-added-tax (VAT) of 12.5% is added. This tax applies to all luxury hotels, restaurants, and bars. Some states such as Tamil Nadu add an astronomical 73.5% tax to your imported liquor bill. Always check whether the tax has been included in the rate you’ve been quoted and, if it hasn’t, exactly how much it is.

BARGAINING In India, even hotel rates are up for a bit of hard-core bargaining. If you’re thin-skinned, bargain online (many hotels offer Internet-only discounts); alternatively, show up and stay tough—when you hear the rate quoted, brazenly pretend to walk out; there’s no shame in India in turning back and accepting the rate. You’ll also be surprised to find that luxury hotels in cities can often be had at mid-range prices, simply because room occupancy is low. Always ask about daily specials, and call and check prices at hotels that may appear out of your reach because of high rack rates—you may actually get a room there for a song. In remote areas, small towns and villages, and many places in Goa and the Himalayan foothills, you can find good (basic but clean) budget accommodations at unbelievable prices. The same cannot generally be said of the major cities, where a cheap, dingy hotel may expose you to bedbugs and despair; stick to the budget recommendations in this book. Note: Prices in a number of the hotel listings throughout the book are stated in U.S. dollars or, increasingly, in euros— this is, in fact, the way hotels targeting foreign markets quote their rates. Wherever you stay, you will be asked to fill out a foreign tourist information form, so have your passport ready in order to complete the details; the best hotels will fill out the form on your behalf so all you need do is sign. Also note that top-range hotels (usually the options listed that only quote their rates in dollars) require payment in foreign

currency; this is when a credit card is invaluable. Tip: All over India, floors are marked and understood differently from many in the U.S. First floor is the floor above the ground level, second floor is the floor above that, and so on. The ground floor or lobby level is just that.

LANDING THE BEST ROOM Somebody has to get the best room in the house. It might as well be you. Make sure your room has air-conditioning. Ask for a room with split air-conditioning (an air conditioner with a separate indoor and outdoor unit); it’s far less noisy—and ugly—than a window air conditioner. If it doesn’t, ask whether there is a ceiling fan or a water-cooling system. Ask about nonsmoking rooms, rooms with views (though many hotel staff don’t understand this concept in India, so it’s best to look around on arrival), showers or tubs (tubs in medium or budget category are usually old and stained, so don’t shy away from shower-only options), and bed size. Ask for one of the most recently renovated or redecorated rooms—bathrooms in particular seem to suffer heavy wear and tear in India. If you aren’t happy with your room when you arrive, say so and look around. If another room is available, most lodgings will be willing to accommodate you. Tip: Indians often use the term “hotel” to refer to a restaurant or eating place, so don’t be surprised if someone suggests you eat at a hotel down the road, and you arrive there to find a five-table shack.

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FAST FACTS: India American Express Report lost or stolen cards by calling & 0124/28-1800 from anywhere in India; or call & 98109-00800 (Delhi) or & 98926-00800 (Mumbai). Individual branches are listed in the “Fast Facts” sections of individual cities. Area Codes The international telephone access code for India is 91. Area codes for principal cities and towns are listed in the “Fast Facts” sections in each chapter. All numbers listed in this guide include the local area code (which you would dial from another Indian town or city); this is separated from the actual telephone number by a forward slash (/). Business Hours Banks are usually open weekdays from 10am to 2pm and Saturday from 10am to noon, though banks in larger cities have much longer hours. Most museums are closed Monday, and the Taj Mahal is closed on Friday. Hours of retail outlets vary depending on where you are, but many close on Sunday. Cameras & Film You can purchase film just about anywhere in India, but it’s best to buy it from high-traffic areas. Remember to store your film in transparent baggies, so if necessary you can remove it easily before you go through airport scanners (now often film-safe). Always place your loaded camcorder on the screening conveyor belt or have it hand-inspected. Be sure your batteries are charged, as you will probably be required to turn the device on to ensure that it’s what it appears to be. Film Safety for Traveling on Planes, or FSTOP (& 888/301-2665; www.f-stop.org), can provide additional tips for traveling with film and equipment. Electricity 220–240 volts AC. Embassies & Consulates Embassies of major English-speaking countries are listed in the “Fast Facts” section for Delhi; see chapter 9. For quick reference, here are some embassy numbers: Australia & 011/5139-9900; Canada & 011/5178-2000; New Zealand & 011/2688-3170; and the U.K. & 011/2687-2161. The U.S. State Department encourages American citizens visiting India to register at the U.S. Embassy in New Delhi (Shantipath, Chanakyapuri; & 011/2419-8000; fax 011/ 2419-0017; http://newdelhi.usembassy.gov) or at one of the U.S. consulates in India; a booklet entitled “Guidelines for American Travelers in India” is available. The U.S. Consulate General in Mumbai is located at Lincoln House, 78 Bhulabhai Desai Rd., 400 026 (& 022/2363-3611; fax 022/2363-0350; http://mumbai.us consulate.gov). The U.S. Consulate General in Kolkata is at 5/1 Ho Chi Minh Sarani, 700 071 (& 033/2282-3611; fax 033/2282-2335; http://calcutta.usconsulate.gov). The U.S. Consulate General in Chennai is at 220 Anna Salai, Gemini Circle, 600 006 (& 044/2811-2000; fax 044/2811-2027; http://chennai.usconsulate.gov). Emergencies Refer to “Fast Facts” sections in individual chapters for police, ambulance, and emergency contact numbers. Internet Access Although they’re not always fantastic in terms of connection speed (or cleanliness), cybercafes are a roaring trade and usually cheap, albeit frustratingly slow. Keep an eye out for Sify i way (www.iway.com) and Reliance Webworld (www.relianceinfo.com) Internet centers, both offering much faster broadband connections than average stand-alone establishments. Sify, for

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instance, has some 2,500 Internet browsing centers around the country, half of which also offer Internet telephone services (about Rs 3/7¢ per minute for international calls). Log on to their websites to find a list of centers in a particular city. Avoid checking your e-mail in small towns; there’s simply no point in spending hours behind a computer screen in Darjeeling trying to send a single message when you could be admiring Mount Everest. Tip: Business centers at luxury hotels charge exorbitant rates; there’s often Internet connection for 10% of the cost just around the corner. Language You shouldn’t have to battle too much if you speak English with a clear accent. Don’t assume, however, that everyone in India understands or speaks English. Also don’t feel affronted when you run into locals who seem to smile in acknowledgement, only to reveal much later that they haven’t the foggiest notion what you’re talking about; they are simply trying to make you feel more at home. Hindi is widely spoken throughout North India, while all the states are divided linguistically. For example, Tamil is spoken in Tamil Nadu, Kannada in Karnataka, Telugu in Andhra Pradesh, Malayalam in Kerala, Gujarati in Gujarat, and Konkani in Goa; and there are literally hundreds of local dialects. Liquor Laws Attitudes toward alcohol vary considerably. In Gujarat, prohibition is in force and liquor can only be obtained from the permit rooms of luxury hotels, a concession made principally for foreigners and out-of-state businesspeople. In most other non-Muslim areas, alcohol is freely available and exceedingly popular. In top hotels, you’ll find a full range of imported liquor, available to those who can afford the extravagance. In most cities you will encounter “country liquor” bars and insalubrious liquor “dens”; and somewhere on your travels you may be offered local bootlegged stuff—all of which you’re advised to stay clear of. Lost & Found Be sure to contact your credit card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. Also file a report at the nearest police precinct, because your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number. Most credit card companies have an emergency number to call if your card is lost or stolen. They may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa’s U.S. emergency number is & 866/670-0955. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders should call & 905/474-0870. MasterCard holders should call & 636/722-7111. If you need emergency cash over the weekend, when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (in India call & 1-600-44-1851 or 1-600-111-911, or go to www.moneyintime.com; in the U.S. call & 1-800/435-2226; www.westernunion. com). You can call all these numbers collect by using the access code 000-117 (see “Telephones: Toll-free numbers” below). Mail Buy stamps for letters and postcards from your hotel, and have your concierge post them for you. International postage is extremely affordable (letter, Rs 15 first 20 grams), and the Indian postal service is generally efficient. However, sending a package or parcel abroad involves a tedious process of wrapping it in cloth and sealing it with string and wax (again, ask your

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concierge); you’ll also have to complete a Customs declaration form. All this may cost you a great deal of time at the post office (9am–5pm). Also, bear in mind that surface mail runs the risk of spending months in the system, or of never arriving at all. You can spare yourself a great deal of torment by having a local or international courier company deliver important packages or by using registered mail. Newspapers & Magazines Major English dailies include The Hindu (www.thehindu onnet.com), The Indian Express (www.expressindia.com), The Times of India (www.timesofindia.com), and Hindustan Times (www.hindustantimes.com), as well as Kolkata’s The Statesman (www.thestatesman.net) and The Telegraph (www.telegraphindia.com). These make for interesting reading and will keep you up-to-date on local and international events. You may find that much of the writing assumes a great deal on your part, however. If you haven’t been following certain stories for some time, the latest update may be impossible to fathom. For our money, The Economic Times provides the most news-intensive articles, written in a language that’s less colorful but easier to follow. Each week you can pick up fresh issues of The Week, India Today, Outlook, and Frontline (which provide quite venomous analyses of the nation’s social, political, and economic situations. These are available at newsstands and railway stations and not only help you pass travel time but add immensely to your understanding of India. If you’re looking for general travel features, the monthly Outlook Traveller (www. outlooktraveller.com) features colorful articles from an Indian perspective. Passports For residents of the United States: Whether you’re applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. For general information, call the National Passport Agency (& 202/647-0518). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center (& 900/225-5674); the fee is 55¢ per minute for automated information and $1.50 per minute for operator-assisted calls. For residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (& 800/567-6868; www. dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport). For residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency; or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at & 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk. For residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/671-1633; www.irlgov. ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (& 021/272-525) or at most main post offices. For residents of Australia: You can pick up an application at your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian

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Passport Information Service at & 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au. For residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at & 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or & 04/474-8100; or log on to www.passports.govt.nz. Police Emergency and police contact numbers are listed in “Fast Facts” sections for major cities. Restrooms Avoid public restrooms in India. Always carry toilet paper or tissues with you, since they’re not always provided. Walk into five-star hotels to use their facilities even if you are not staying there. Smoking Whatever curbs the government has tried to place on cigarette usage, there are no signs of society giving in to concerns about the hazards of smoking. Nearly every male in India seems to smoke something. An exception is Trivandrum City, where, at press time, smoking in restaurants and public places was banned (and enforced). Smoking is also forbidden on all trains, so if someone is smoking on your train, you are well within your rights to ask them to stop. Most luxury hotels have introduced nonsmoking rooms; if you don’t smoke, request one when you book your reservation. Taxes According to a new tax law, the luxury tax (VAT) on hotel accommodations, restaurants, and hotels is a flat 12.5%. Additional taxes on alcohol vary from state to state. Imported liquors attract a similarly disagreeable sin tax, making local brands far more attractive than their quality might suggest. In Tamil Nadu, for example, a whopping 73.5% tax is levied on imported liquor. Restaurant bills often include additional charges (such as a service tax) that usually account for between 10% and 15% of the total cost of your meal. Telephones Phone numbers in India change at the drop of a hat, and businesses are slow in updating contact information, including websites. To call India: 1. Dial the international access code: 011 (from the U.S. and Canada); 00 (from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand); or 0011 (from Australia). 2. Dial the country code: 91. 3. Dial the city code (these are provided in the relevant chapters), omitting the first zero. 4. Dial the telephone number. Note: To call a cellphone number in India, follow up to step 2 above and then dial the 10-digit cellphone number, which should begin with “9.” Making calls within India: Hotel telephone costs are exorbitant, even when you make a domestic long-distance call. All over India, you’ll see illuminated yellow ISD/STD signs indicating a privately operated “International Subscriber Dialing” and “Standard Trunk Dialing” facility; these are very reasonably priced. Your call is monitored by a computer system, and you pay at the end of your session. Make sure you have the correct phone number with you—and check that the phone is in a quiet spot, or you run the risk of not hearing a word

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during your conversation. To call a mobile phone number that is not in the city in which you are based, dial “0” before the 10-digit number. Making calls from cellphones: When making calls from cellphones, you’ll need to punch in the full area code of the city and telephone number irrespective of where you are calling from. In other words, even if you are in Mumbai and want to call the city’s Taj Mahal Hotel, you’d need to dial 022/5665-3366 from your cellphone. To call a cellphone number within a city, just dial the 10-digit cellphone number; to call a cellphone outside your city, add a “0” before the number. To make international calls: Dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., dial & 00-1-202-588-7800. For directory assistance: Dial 197 if you’re looking for a local number within India, and dial 183 for long-distance numbers within India. Don’t hold your breath for accurate or up-to-date assistance, and speak slowly and clearly. There’s also every chance you won’t be able to get through to the number at all, or that your question will not be correctly answered. In the “Fast Facts” sections for some cities you’ll find listed numbers for private, talking Yellow Pages services; these are more helpful in giving up-to-date information. For operator assistance: If the phone you’re using is not an International Subscriber Dialing (ISD) facility, you’ll need operator assistance and must dial 186. Using an ISD facility without the need for an operator will save you a great deal of time. Toll-free numbers: To call a 1-800 number in the U.S. from India, first contact the international operator through the Direct Access service. For a call to the U.S., call & 000-117 (AT&T Direct Access), which gives you an AT&T operator, through whom you can make your toll-free or collect call. Note, however, that these Direct Access calls cannot be made from everywhere; to ensure you won’t be charged for the call, check with your hotel before dialing. Time Zone Despite India’s vastness, the entire country operates according to the same time zone, 51⁄2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. That’s 91⁄2 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (New York) or 101⁄2 when daylight saving time comes into effect in the U.S. Note: You may find your sense of time threatened while you’re in India; the rule of thumb is don’t panic. Remember that there’s no point in getting worked up about delayed trains and such. In fact, when you arrive on time or ahead of schedule, be thankful. Use “wasted time” to chat with locals. Tipping Tipping in India is an industry unto itself, and it’s a relief to find yourself in an environment like the Oberoi, where individual tipping is not encouraged, for this very reason. Money certainly speeds up most processes, and you’re treated with a certain degree of dignity and respect the moment you produce a wad of cash—don’t tip and you’ll more than likely have to deal with a disgruntled and/or depressed porter/driver/guide. Bear in mind that many of the people who serve you are possibly living on the bread line, and your monetary contribution will be greatly appreciated; handing over an Rs 10 (25¢) or Rs 20 (45¢) note will hardly dent your pocket. Obviously it’s not worthwhile to tip someone who hasn’t eased your journey, but do reward those drivers,

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guides, and hotel staff who go out of their way to make your stay an enjoyable one. A driver or guide who’s been with you an entire day will be most grateful for an extra Rs 100 to RS 150 ($2.30–$3.45). Tipping is but one strain of India’s all-pervasive baksheesh system, which is apparently an accepted means of distributing wealth to the lower echelons of society. As a foreigner, you will be regarded as wealthy, and your endless charity is almost expected by those who are less fortunate. It’s therefore an excellent idea to always keep a stash of Rs 10 notes in an easy-to-access pocket, so that you can hand cash to the person who has just carried your bags or given you an unsolicited tour or looked after your shoes (the list is endless), and is now hanging around hopefully. Occasionally, someone will bluntly demand baksheesh, which is the same term that may be used by beggars, religious mendicants, and barefoot children looking for a handout. You are not obliged to pay anything, of course, but your conscience and irritation level will probably sway you either way. Tip: In Hindu temples, priests will happily encourage you to hand over huge sums of cash, often insisting that the money is for the poor. Be wary of such scams, and bear in mind that many temple officials have grown wealthy on charity intended for the poor.

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3 Suggested India Itineraries ndia is such a vast country and has so Imuch to see that visitors are tempted to pack in as much as possible. Begin any trip to India with the knowledge that no matter how long your vacation, it will not be long enough. Knowing this can help you make the best of your time here and prevent you from planning a punishing schedule that will not only leave you thoroughly exhausted and overwhelmed, but with an uncomfortable feeling that you’ve rushed through most of what you did see. Despite greatly improved accommodations and transportation options, India is still a challenging destination, and you should always be prepared to take in stride a delayed flight, slow check-in, or upset tummy on, say, a long-distance train. Set aside time to acclimatize and simply unwind—this is, after all, a holiday. Ideally, you should use this book’s “Best of ” chapter to work out a route that covers those experiences or sights that really appeal to you, as the range of possible itineraries is endless; what we’ve suggested below is three rather full programs covering either North or South India over a 2-week period. If possible, you should extend your holiday—2 weeks is not enough time to come to grips with India—and set aside more time for those destinations that sound most appealing to you. The fourth itinerary is for those who want to experience India at a languid, easy pace while still taking in key attractions—and there is no better place to do this than in southern India.

You could, of course, combine a trip to both the North and the South, but then you really should stick to one state (even one hotel!) in each area. For instance, you can arrive in Delhi, travel through Agra and then Jaipur, Bundi, and Udaipur, covering this region in 8 days, and then head south to Kerala. In Kerala, you can cover Cochin and Kumarakom (cruising the backwaters) and finish off with a couple of days south of Kovalam, before flying out of Bangalore or Mumbai. None of the itineraries below includes a trip into any of the fabulous Himalayan regions covered in this book. If you do in fact extend your time in India, make your way from Delhi to the Golden Temple in Amritsar, and then explore the remote valleys of Kinnaur, Lahaul, and Spiti before heading into surreal Ladakh; alternatively, you can take a road trip from Delhi through the picturesque Kumaon in Uttaranchal, or take off from Kolkata to Darjeeling (book the famous toy train there) and Buddhist Sikkim. Though the Himalayas represent one geological phenomenon, these different regions offer varied and distinct environments and cultures that are in their own ways intriguing and breathtaking. Whatever you finally decide to do, we highly recommend that you end your holiday in one of India’s natural paradises, at least to recover from the sensual assault you’ll experience exploring the crowded and often polluted urban areas. These oases include the beaches on the Malabar coast and Goa, the backwaters of

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Kerala, the lunar landscapes and wooded hills of the Himalayas, and the wonderful hotels and resorts in Rajasthan. Important: Should limited time force you to include only the most obvious stops in your itinerary, you will invariably only make contact with those locals who depend on you for a living, which regrettably could leave you with a frustrated

sense that many of India’s inhabitants are grasping, manipulative, or downright pushy. This is why it’s so important to get off the beaten tourist track, and book at least one homestay in order to experience firsthand the warmth, hospitality, and generosity of the Indian people and their culture, which celebrates an ancient philosophy of the guest as god.

1 North India Highlights in 15 Days Stunning Mughal architecture, heritage hotels, old palaces, forts, and colorful markets make North India an exciting experience that imparts a heady, sensory feeling in any visitor. No 2-week trip can exhaustively cover all the main sights, but this itinerary covers many of the most popular tourist attractions of northern India. It’s a hectic schedule, so keep in mind that relaxation is required between sights, if only to catch your breath and dwell on what you’ve seen before leaping forward to the next equally striking sight. Days 1–3: Delhi

You’ll most likely arrive in Delhi in the wee hours of the morning. As a general rule, take it easy on Day 1 in India—the country takes serious acclimation. There’s no better way to ease into your trip than to start your vacation at Delhi’s finest hotel, The Imperial. Allow yourself a late morning on Day 2, and hire a car and driver for the day if you want to wander out for some slow-paced sightseeing. Take in central New Delhi’s imperial architecture—beginning at India Gate, built to commemorate those who died in World War I. From there, set off on foot along Rajpath to the beautifully ornate gates of Rashtrapati Bhavan, official residence of the president of India. Then drive south to visit the 12th-century Qutb Minar. For a break, escape to Lodi Gardens, where lawns and golfing greens are studded with the crumbling 15th-century tombs of once-powerful dynasties. A short drive west brings you to the splendid medieval buildings of Humayun’s Tomb and Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia. Finally, stop off at Dilli Haat and check out the range of handicrafts and handmade goods

sold by artisans from around India, before you return to The Imperial’s Spice Route for dinner. On Day 3, explore Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad). Must-sees include Lal Qila (Red Fort) and Jama Masjid, both built by Shah Jahan, the most prolific architect of the Mughal empire. You can also stop off at vibrant Gauri Shankar Temple, which has an 800-year-old lingam (a phallic symbol used in the worship of the Hindu god Shiva); Sisganj Gurudwara, an unassuming but atmospheric and welcoming Sikh temple that marks the spot where Guru Tegh Bahadur, the ninth Sikh guru, was beheaded by Aurangzeb; and Sunehri and Fatehpuri masjids. If you can handle the massive crowds, wander around Chandni Chowk, Khari Baoli (reputed to be Asia’s biggest spice market), and jam-packed Kinari Bazaar—but keep a close watch on your belongings at all times. Days 4 & 5: Varanasi–Khajuraho

Fly into Varanasi, a crumbling maze of a city that rises from the ghats (steps) on the western banks of the Ganges River.

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Varanasi is in many ways quintessential India—it is one of the holiest of Indian pilgrimage sites, home of Shiva, where the devout come to wash away their sins. Many come here to die with the hope that they may achieve moksha, salvation of the soul from the cycle of birth, death, and rebirth. Take a boat cruise past the ghats at dawn; you can repeat this at sunset or, better still, head for Dasashwamedh Ghat to watch the Ganga Fire Arti. For 45 minutes, young Brahmin priests perform age-old prayer rituals with conch shells and burning braziers, accompanied by drummers, while children hawk candles for you to light and set adrift. Aside from these must-sees, you should set aside some time to wander the ancient lanes of the Old City, particularly those around Kashi Vishwanath Temple. When you feel the need for peace and solitude, hire a car and visit Sarnath, where Buddha first revealed his Eightfold Path to Nirvana; spend a few hours exploring the archaeological ruins and the modern Buddhist temple and monasteries. Overnight at Ganga View Guesthouse in Varanasi, a lovely, comfortable colonial lodge at the edge of the river. On the afternoon of Day 5, take a flight to Khajuraho. After you check in at your hotel, head off immediately to either the Eastern or Southern group of temples, with a guide from the Raja Café. The Radisson Jass is the best hotel in Khajuraho, though some of the options aren’t too bad.

time admiring the beautifully rendered friezes of gods, nymphs, animals, and energetically twisting bodies locked together in acts of hot-blooded passion. Cover the Western, Eastern, and Southern groups (unless you visited them the day before), ending your day at the 50minute sound-and-light show held at 6:30pm, which provides a fascinating history of Khajuraho.

Day 6: Khajuraho

Drive to Jhansi, and take an express train to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. Besides the exquisite Taj, visit the city of Fatehpur Sikri and the tombs of Itmad-ud-Daulah and Akbar, as well as well-preserved Agra Fort. If you can afford it (and this one is worth saving up for), overnight at the Oberoi’s luxurious Amarvilas, where your room will have a view of the Taj Mahal. Ideally, visit the Taj at dawn and spend the whole morning there. Built by Shah Jahan as an eternal symbol of his love for his

Khajuraho is known the world over for its transgressive, taboo-breaking erotic sculptures, images that are almost as intimately associated with India as the Taj. But the temples also represent an outstanding synthesis of advanced architecture and refined sculpture. Try to enter as soon as the Western Group of temples opens (sunrise), not only for the light’s quality, but to avoid the busloads of tourists who will arrive later. Take your

Day 7: Orchha

From Khajuraho, drive to Orchha, the deserted royal citadel of Raja Rudra Pratap, on a rocky island on the Betwa River. This is one of India’s most fabulous Mughal heritage sites and a wonderfully relaxing stop sandwiched between the intense huckster-heavy destinations of Varanasi/Khajuraho and Agra. Orchha, founded in 1531, was the capital of the Bundela kings until 1738. Today the weathered temples, palaces, and cenotaphs are the royal quarters of emerald parakeets and black-faced langurs, while traditional whitewashed, flat-roofed structures house the laid-back villagers. Besides the palace complex, three beautiful temples are worth seeking out, as well as 14 graceful chhatris (cenotaphs) commemorating the Orchha rulers, built upstream along the riverbank. Though all these can be covered in a day, get the most out of this surreally tranquil haven by spending the night at the Orchha Resort. Days 8 & 9: Agra

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B ay of B en gal

MAHARASHTRA

Mumbai (Bombay)

Jabalpur

ada Narm

Bhopal

MADHYA PRADESH

New Delhi

Sagar

Lalitpur Shivpuri

New Delhi

Mirzapur Khajuraho Chhatarpur

Orchha

Jhansi

Gwalior Karauli

100 km

100 mi 0

GUJARAT

Ratlam

Udaipur

Indore

Kota 13–15

Ajmer 11

Jodhpur Pushkar

Deogarh Ranakpur Bundi

Sanganer 10

Jaipur

Neemrana R A J A S T H A N Alwar Bharatpur Amber

Murwara

4–5

Varanasi Allahabad

Ga nge s Kanpur

Faizabad

Lucknow Etawah

Farrukhabad

Agra

Bareilly

UTTAR PRADESH

8 Bikaner

Jhunjhunu

8–9

Shahjahanpur

NEPAL Bisalpur Rampur 1–3

New Delhi

DELHI

SHEKHAWATI

HARYANA

Delhi 15

a Yamun

Gha ghar a

North India Highlights in 15 Days

favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal (“Jewel of the Palace”), the Taj has immortalized him as one of the great architectural patrons of the world. It’s not only the perfect symmetry, the ethereal luminescence, the wonderful proportions, or the sheer scale that justifies it as a wonder of the world, but the exquisite detail covering every inch of marble.

though you’ll need a little more time if you want to go to Samode Palace, an hour’s drive away. However, no amount of time is enough for shopping; Jaipur is a bargainhunter’s haven, where you will find gorgeous Rajasthani crafts for sale that are hard to resist. In Jaipur, overnight at Rajvilas or at any of the heritage properties reviewed, which cover a range of budgets.

Day 0: Jaipur

Day !: Pushkar

Drive to Jaipur, where you can explore the Late in the afternoon, drive from Jaipur City Palace and Amber Fort in a day, to the temple town of Pushkar, stopping

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en route to view Dargah Sharif, the top attraction of Ajmer along the way. Get your “Pushkar Passport” as early as possible, which will then free you from further harassment by priests. Spend the night on the shores of Pushkar Lake, preferably at Pushkar Palace.

complete, and remains one of the best examples of Indo-Saracenic Art Deco style. It is topped with a massive dome, beyond which the buildings are perfectly symmetrical. Stop off at The Pillars restaurant, from where you can enjoy a spellbinding view of the fort in the distance. Move on to Rawla Narlai or even Day @: Pushkar–Jodhpur (if you don’t mind a detour) Deogarh Start out early to explore Pushkar, a Mahal to overnight. charming (if now touristy) town surrounding a sacred lake on the eastern Days # & $: Udaipur edge of the Thar Desert. An important Enjoy the morning at Rawla Narlai or pilgrimage site for Hindus, it remains a Deogarh Mahal, then head to Udaipur, hugely atmospheric place despite its pop- stopping at the Ranakpur temples (and, ularity with foreign hippies. Browse the if you’ve left early enough, Kumbhalgarh) street bazaar, where you can pick up the en route. If the waters have returned to most gorgeous throwaway gear, great sec- Lake Pichola, overnight at Lake Palace or ondhand books, and CDs at bargain any of the recommended accommodaprices. Pushkar can be explored entirely tions that have a lake view. Time allowon foot—it will take you about 45 min- ing, take a sunset cruise on the lake. If the utes to walk around the holy lake and its lake is still dry, you’re better of staying at 52 ghats (stairs). From Pushkar, move on Devi Garh, 45 minutes outside Udaipur. to Jodhpur, where you must set aside half The following day, visit the City Palace a day to visit fabulous Mehrangarh Fort and Museum in Udaipur. Prime attracand Museum, arguably Rajasthan’s most tions worth pursuing and doable in the impressive fort, with sheer clifflike walls time available are the temples at Nathdthat soar above the city. Situated on wara and Eklingji. Or spend the rest of another raised outcrop, with sprawling the day lounging around the pool. grounds creating an almost rural ambi% ence, is Umaid Bhawan Palace, built by Day : Udaipur–Delhi Enjoy a leisurely morning roaming Maharaja Umaid Singh as a poverty-relief Udaipur’s lovely bazaars, or relax at the exercise to aid his drought-stricken subDevi Garh pool, before taking an afterjects. Designed by Henry Lanchester, a noon flight back to Delhi. If you have great admirer of Lutyens (the man who designed New Delhi), it was started in space left in your baggage (fat chance!), 1929, took 3,000 laborers 13 years to stop for last-minute souvenirs and gifts before you board your flight home.

2 The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Highlights Though this itinerary includes Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur (the “Golden Triangle”) and captures many of the essential Rajasthan sights, it does not include Jaisalmer, one of Rajasthan’s most wonderful destinations, primarily because it’s not very easy to get to. In a 2-week vacation that also takes in Delhi and Agra, it would be hard (but not impossible) to include Jaisalmer. Best to extend your stay in India by a few days if you want to cover this oldest “living” fortified city in Rajasthan. Located in the heart of the Thar Desert on India’s far western border, Jaisalmer has breathtakingly beautiful sandstone mansions, though its main attraction, Sonar Killa (Golden Fort), is reason enough to travel this far west. Though not as impressive as Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh

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Ganganagar

PAKISTAN

Panipat

Sirsa

HARYANA

SHEKHAWATI Jhunjhunu

Neemrana

RAJASTHAN

Alwar

Bareilly

UTTAR PRADESH Agra

Bharatpur Amber

Jaipur 12

1–3

11 15

Rampur

New Delhi

a Yamun

Bikaner

DELHI

Delhi

4–5

13–14

Etawah

6–7

Pushkar

Jodhpur

Ranakpur

Bundi

Karauli

Sanganer

Ajmer

Deogarh

Gwalior

RANTHAMBHORE NAT'L PARK

Jhansi Mount Abu

Shivpuri

Kota Udaipur

10–11

GUJARAT

Sagar

Gandhinagar 8A

MADHYA PRADESH

Ratlam

Bhopal

Ahmedabad Indore Vadodara

100 mi

Narmada

N Khadwa

100 km

Surat

Daman

DAMAN AND DIU

New Delhi

Dhule

New Delhi

Silvassa DADRA AND NAGAR HAVELI

Aurangabad

Mumbai (Bombay)

Jahna

MAHARASHTRA

Mumbai (Bombay)

Ba y o f Be n g a l

Ahmadnagar

da Go

Pune

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Fort, Jaisalmer has its unique charm as an inhabited medieval fort, and the tiny guesthouses that lie within its ramparts offer fabulous views. This is a place with no heavy traffic, minimal pollution, and a wonderful sense of timelessness. So if you do come to Jaisalmer, plan to spend 2 nights here, not least because it takes so long to get to. Days 1–3: Delhi

After your long flight and no doubt middle-of-the-night arrival, have a car waiting for you and check in at Delhi’s finest hotel, The Imperial, or at Delhi’s best B&B, Master Paying Guest House, which will also arrange an airport transfer. (If you opt for the latter, you’ll need to have booked well in advance.) When you feel you’re ready to face the world, take in a few New Delhi sights, including India Gate, built to commemorate those who died in World War I. Walk from Rajpath to Rashtrapati Bhavan, where the president of India lives. After you cover the 12th-century Qutb Minar complex in South Delhi, grab a rooftop table at Thai Wok with a view of the complex, or at one of the recommended restaurants in the nearby suburb of Hauz Khas. After lunch, visit the garden tombs of Humayun and of Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia (the saint Sheikh Nizamuddin Aulia), one of the holiest Muslim sites in India. Time allowing, stop off at Rajghat, the place where Gandhi was cremated in 1948. Of course if you’re here to shop or want to browse, scrap these and head for Dilli Haat, a great place to check out the range of handicrafts you’ll find on your travels through India. Pick one of Delhi’s excellent restaurants for dinner. Prepare yourself for the chaos of the crowded streets of 17th-century Shahjahanabad, or Old Delhi—just a few kilometers from Connaught Place, it feels a hundred years away, and the pungent smells from the ancient streets are a heady reminder that you are far from home. Still surrounded by crumbling city walls and three surviving gates, the vibrant, bustling Shahjahanabad, built over a

period of 10 years by Emperor Shah Jahan, is very much a separate city—predominantly a labyrinth of tiny lanes crowded with rickshaws and lined with havelis (Indian “mansions”), their balustrades broken and once-ornate facades defaced with rusted signs and sprouting satellite dishes. Start with imposing Lal Qila (Red Fort) and Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. If the crowds haven’t left you exhausted, visit Gauri Shankar Temple, Sisganj Gurudwara, and Sunehri and Fatehpuri masjids. The city’s lanes and back lanes are exciting to wander through, especially Chandni Chowk, Khari Baoli (the spice market), and Kinari Bazaar—but do hold tightly to your belongings. Days 4 & 5: Shekhawati

Make an early start and drive to the Shekhawati region, the open-air art gallery of Rajasthan. Today there are some 30 “painted towns” in the region, but the most essential to include in a first-time itinerary are Ramgarh, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, and Mandawa. Mandawa is a quaint town with a number of beautifully painted buildings; it is also centrally located and has the best accommodations in the area. Overnight at Castle Mandawa or, if you want to stay in a haveli, at Mandawa Haveli. Days 6 & 7: Jaipur–Ranthambhore

Drive to the “Pink City” of Jaipur. If possible, book into the wonderful Rajvilas hotel, though Jaipur is one city that has a host of pleasant heritage options to suit every budget, and you may prefer the authenticity of a real heritage hotel. Explore the City Palace, including a visit to Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar, and

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then focus on sites farther afield: Amber Fort, first royal residence of the Maharajas of Kachchwaha, lies 11km (63⁄4 miles) north, while popular Samode Palace is an hour’s drive away. Jaipur, famous for gems and jewelry, enamel and brassware, blue pottery, embroidered leather footwear, rugs, tie-and-dye cotton fabrics, handblocked prints, fine Kota doria saris, and ready-made linens and home furnishings, is a shopper’s paradise. You could spend days bargain-hunting through the region’s wonderful crafts, so be prepared to extend your stay by at least a day. If this is not possible, set off on the evening of Day 7 to Ranthambhore National Park, and overnight at Sher Bagh, Aman-i-Khás, or Vanyavilas. Day 8: Ranthambhore

raised a meter or more above street level, is wonderful, with photo opportunities everywhere: old men beating copper pots into perfect shape; tailors working with beautiful fabrics on ancient Singers; huge mounds of orange, red, and yellow spices offset by fresh, colorful local vegetables; rickshaws carting women adorned in color-saturated saris; and temples blaring live music. Besides wandering the streets, visit Garh Palace and Raniji-ki-Baori, the state’s most impressive step well. Bundi is also a great place to pick up miniature paintings. Overnight at charming Haveli Braj Bhushanjee. Days 0 & !: Udaipur

Visit Udaipur’s lovely bazaars and towering City Palace and Museum. If Lake Pichola has water, take a boat ride and overnight at either Lake Palace or one of the other accommodations with a lake view. Or spend the night at elegant Devi Garh just 26km (16 miles) from Udaipur. If the lake is dry, tarry no longer than a day, moving on the next day to one of the excursions outside Udaipur. Begin with the temples at Nathdwara, Nagda, and Eklingji; then move on to the awesome Jain temples at Ranakpur (a must on any itinerary), Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, and magnificent Kumbhalgarh Fort. Alternatively, consider another long, full-day trip to Chittaurgarh, site of the most legendary Mewar battles. Overnight on Day 11 at Rawla Narlai or Deogarh Mahal, from where you can head northwest for Jodhpur.

Take an early-morning or afternoon game drive into the park. Set aside a few hours to visit Ranthambhore Fort, whose high, jagged escarpment has towered over the park’s forests for nearly a thousand years. Go tiger tracking; the highlight of a trip here is spotting a tiger. Even if you don’t see a tiger (and do be prepared for this eventuality), the physical beauty of the park is worth experiencing. Other species worth looking for include caracal (a wildcat), crocodile, nilgai (large antelope resembling cattle), chital (spotted deer), black buck (delicate buck with spiraling horns), chinkara (a dainty gazelle), and sambar. The park also holds leopards, wild boars, sloth bears, and rich birdlife. At night, unwind around a campfire and swap stories with other travelers, or discuss Day @: Jodhpur–Delhi the fate of the highly endangered tiger. Make an early start to drive to “the Blue Day 9: Bundi City” of Jodhpur and explore fabulous Drive to the tiny, off-the-beaten-track Mehrangarh Fort and Museum. For town of Bundi, where life goes on pretty many, this looming, 15th-century edifice much as it has for centuries. Approached to Rajput valor is still Rajasthan’s most through a gorge, the town is embraced by impressive fort, with walls that soar like the hills of the Aravalli Range, topped by sheer cliffs 122m (400 ft.) high—literally Taragarh Fort. Exploring Bundi’s narrow dwarfing the city at its base—and a proud streets, with its tiny cupboardlike shops history of never having fallen to its many

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invaders. Don’t miss out on Umaid Bhawan Palace, once the largest private residence in the world—a vivid reminder of the decadence the Rajput rulers enjoyed during the British Raj. Then, catch a flight to Delhi, where you can relax after a rather long day.

time, see beautiful Jama Masjid, built in 1648 by Jahanara Begum, Shah Jahan’s favorite daughter. Overnight at the Oberoi’s Amarvilas, a worthwhile splurge for your last night in India. Ideally, you can visit the Taj at dawn on Day 14 and spend as much time as you like there before you head back to Delhi for your Days # & $: Agra flight out. If you get into Delhi before Drive to Agra to visit the jewel of India, nightfall, you’ll still have time to do lastthe Taj Mahal, stopping en route at minute shopping, as most shops are open Fatehpur Sikri. Visit Itmad-ud-Daulah’s till at least 7pm. tomb and Agra Fort. If you have the

3 South India in 2 Weeks South India is where the great Dravidian kingdoms were established, and anyone interested in ancient history and grand temples must visit Tamil Nadu or Karnataka. Here we’ve included only a few temples, but if you crave more, you’ll find an exhaustive variety of exquisitely carved temples to explore. For natural beauty and rejuvenation, there are few places in India like Kerala, India’s most verdant state, where we recommend you end your trip. This itinerary also takes you through its tea estates, backwaters, and wildlife parks. Days 1 & 2: Bangalore

Fly straight into Bangalore. You’ll probably arrive in the middle of the night, so spend the day relaxing or wandering through Karnataka’s capital city and IT hub. At some point, take in Bull Temple on Bugle Hill. Built by the city’s original architect, Kempe Gowda, this 16th-century blackgranite statue of Nandi (Shiva’s sacred bull “vehicle”) literally dwarfs its “master,” and is kept glistening by regular applications of coconut oil. Stay at either the ultra-modern Park hotel or the Taj West End for old-world charm. If you’re on a budget, book a room at lovely Villa Pottipati. If you arrive in Mumbai instead, you can spend the day relaxing at one of the city’s numerous luxury hotels or at a good-value option like Gordons. Set aside a few hours to wander around and acclimate yourself to India’s most bustling metropolis.

straight down the coast to Fisherman’s Cove resort (1 hr.) or take a detour to Kanchipuram 80km (50 miles) southwest of Chennai to visit the temples there before heading to Fisherman’s Cove. If you prefer to be closer to Mamallapuram, book a room at Temple Bay resort instead. En route, stop along the scenic East Coast Highway at the cultural centers of Cholamandalam and Dakshina Chitra for local arts and crafts. At Cholamandalam Artists’ Village, you can observe artists at work, while Dakshina Chitra is a heritage center showcasing different living styles from India’s four southern states: Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Andhra Pradesh. Day 4: Mamallapuram

Set out early and take in Mamallapuram’s monolithic shrines and rock-cut cave temples, which lie scattered over a landscape heaped with boulders and rocky Day 3: Chennai–Mamallapuram hillocks. Among these, the excellent From Bangalore (or Mumbai), fly to Chen- Shore Temple, built to Lord Shiva, and nai (or take the train). You can either head the Five Rathas, a cluster of temples

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South India in 2 Weeks 100 mi

ANDHRA PRADESH

New Delhi New Delhi

100 km

Houseboat

KARNATAKA

MAHARASHTRA

Mumbai (Bombay)

Tumkur

Mangalore B ay o f B e ngal

1–2

Bangalore

Kanchipuram

Cole ro

Chennai (Madras) 4

Mamollapuram Mamallapuram

Mysore

Cannanore 5–6

WYANAD 14 WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

Mahe PONDICHERRY

Salem

Chidambaram

Erode Coimbatore

TAMIL NADU

Munnar Cochin 12–13 (Kochi) Kumarakom 10

Laccadive Sea

PONDICHERRY

8 7

PONDICHERRY

Cuddalore

Calicut 15 (Kozhikode)

KERALA

Pondicherry

Madurai PERIYAR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

k Pal

it Stra Jaffna

Rameshwaram Quilon

Tuticorin

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) Nagercoil

C. Comorin

named for the five Pandava brothers of Mahabharata fame, are definitely worth seeking out. The celebrated Arjuna’s Penance is the largest relief-carving on earth. When you’ve finished your tour, you can enjoy a great seafood meal at one of the numerous beach shacks or restaurants before continuing down the coast to the French colonial town of Pondicherry. Overnight at Hotel de l’Orient.

Gulf of Mannar

SRI LANKA

of Sri Aurobindo. While wandering the Quarter, you may want to take a look at the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Eglise de Sacre Coeur de Jésus), an 18th-century neo-Gothic Catholic church on South Boulevard; and at the Church of Immaculate Conception on Mission Street. At twilight, stroll to Goubert Salai (Beach Rd.), where you’ll see the colonial Hôtel de Ville (now the Municipal Offices building) and a statue of Gandhi standing Days 5 & 6: Pondicherry at the pier. On the evening of Day 6, drive Besides hanging out in your antiques- to Chennai, from where you can take a filled colonial hotel or sauntering around flight to Madurai. Overnight at the Taj the oceanfront French Quarter, you can Garden Retreat, Madurai. visit Auroville, an interesting experiment in alternative living, also optimistically Day 7: Madurai known as the City of Dawn; or you can Early in the morning, visit Shri Meenakjoin New Age travelers and visit the ashram shi-Sundareshwarar Temple, one of South

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India’s biggest, busiest pilgrimage sites. Garish stucco gods, demons, beasts, and heroes smother the various towers in a writhing, fascinating mass of symbolism, vividly painted a riot of bright colors. Near the inner gate, a temple elephant, daubed with eye shadow and blusher, earns her keep by accepting a few rupees in exchange for a blessing—bestowed with a light tap of her dexterous trunk. From here you can wander at will, finding your way at some stage to the Thousand Pillar Museum, housed in the impressive 16th-century Hall of a Thousand Pillars. This hall has 985 elegantly sculpted columns, including a set of “musical pillars” that produce the seven Carnatic musical notes when tapped. All around the complex of shrines and effigies, various pujas (prayers) and rituals are conducted. Once you’re done exploring the site and have spent an hour or so wandering the lanes adjacent to the temple, drive to Munnar, sometimes referred to as Kerala’s Scottish highlands. Overnight at The Siena Village, a 30-minute drive from Munnar town. Day 8: Munnar

Munnar is a collection of vast green tea estates first established by a Scotsman in the late 19th century. Besides enjoying the rolling mists and endless greenery, you can arrange a tea factory visit and a stopover at the Tea Museum. To get up close to some of the world’s last Nilgiri tahr (a variety of mountain goat or ibex), visit nearby Eravikulam National Park. Existing only in the mountain grasslands of the Western ghats at altitudes above 2,000m (6,561 ft.), the tahr is as endangered as the tiger. Day 9: Periyar

Drive to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, originally the hunting grounds of the Maharajah of Travancore. The park covers 777 sq. km (8,364 sq. ft.) and is divided into core, buffer, and tourist zones. Although this is a tiger reserve, tiger sightings are rare,

particularly in the tourist zone, but the reserve is also home to the elephant, sloth bear, sambar, Indian bison or gaur, wild dog, leopard, spotted deer, Malabar flying squirrel, barking deer, and Nilgiri tahr, as well as some 260 species of birds. More than 2,000 species of flowering plants grow here, including at least 150 different kinds of orchids. Organize a private boat launch ride from where you can view animals coming to drink at the water’s edge. You can also take one of the 3-hour daily walks, which give you the opportunity to admire the stunning flora of the region. To ensure you have a truly close-up encounter with an elephant, go on a 30-minute elephant ride in the park. Overnight at Shalimar Spice Garden Resort. Day 0: Kumarakom

Drive to the heart of Kerala’s backwaters region to Kumarakom, which has by far the best accommodations. Idle away the hours on a backwaters cruise, indulge in Ayurvedic therapies, and laze under the tropical sun—that’s about as busy as your day is likely to get. Overnight at the Kumarakom Lake Resort. Day !: Houseboat

Reset your watch to a rhythm of life that has remained relatively unchanged for centuries: Board a kettuvallam, one of the long, beautifully crafted cargo boats that ply the waterways. The houseboat experience allows you to aimlessly drift past villages, temples, and churches and be thoroughly exposed to the rural lifestyle of the backwaters. As you drift along, you can watch women, unperturbed by your presence, wash their long ebony tresses or pound away at laundry, while children play at the water’s edge, men dive for mussels, and elephants and water buffalo wade at will. Although the onboard facilities might strike some as rather basic, you’ll be spoiled rotten by your private team—a guide, a cook, and a pilot—who work hard to make your experience unique and exceptional.

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Days @ & #: Cochin (Kochi)

Day $: Wyanad

Travel north to Cochin and settle into a hotel in Fort Kochi (we suggest either The Brunton Boatyard Hotel or the Malabar Residency), then explore Fort Kochi on foot. Start your tour at the harbor near Vasco da Gama Square, where you can watch the Chinese fishing nets, then visit St. Francis Church and Santa Cruz Cathedral. Stop to admire the facade of Koder House—built in 1808 by Jewish patriarch Samuel Koder, it’s a good example of the hybrid Indo-European style that developed in Cochin. Also nearby is the Pierce Leslie Bungalow, a charming 19th-century mansion reflecting Portuguese and Dutch influences on local architecture. Take an auto-rickshaw to Mattancherry, where you should visit the Dutch (Mattancherry) Palace and Paradesi Synagogue before discovering the fragrant scents of Kerala’s spice warehouses. Make time to visit a few of the antiques warehouses, where some real treasures are to be found. A sunset cruise around the harbor is another must; it’s the best way to enjoy the most-photographed of Cochin’s historic sights, the Chinese fishing nets that form wonderful silhouettes against a red- and orangehued sky.

From Cochin, take the early Cannanore Express train to Calicut, from where you can catch a taxi for the 2-hour journey to Sulthan Bathery in Wyanad. Without a doubt the best accommodations, Tranquil Resorts is a wonderful homestay on a 162-hectare (400-acre) coffee and vanilla plantation at the edge of Wyanad National Park. Visit tea, pepper, cardamom, coffee, banana, and coconut plantations, or take one of the many splendid walks on this scenic estate; alternatively, take a trip into the park or to Edakkal Caves. Either way, the hospitality of Victor and Ranjini Dey at this gorgeous planter’s bungalow makes for an excellent end-of-trip sojourn. Day %: Wyanad–Calicut–Home

Hearts heavy with regret, you must now make your way back to Calicut to fly to either Mumbai or Bangalore to connect to your flight home. If you arrive in Mumbai, you will need to transfer from the domestic to the international airport. En route, you can stop off for dinner at one of the superb restaurants near the airport (Dum Pukht or Dakshin at the ITC Grand Maratha Sheraton; or Stax, the Italian restaurant at the Hyatt Regency, if you’d prefer a less spice-intense meal), before you catch the late-night flight home.

4 A Leisurely Southern Sojourn South India is perfect for a slow-paced 2-week holiday that’s more unhurried escape than hectic vacation filled with must-see sights. This itinerary does explore a few tourist sites, but mostly it’s about relaxing and enjoying a few beautiful and varied environments. Kerala is the ideal place to unwind and indulge; this is, after all, where succumbing to therapeutic Ayurvedic massages and treatments is as mandatory as idling away an afternoon aboard a slowly drifting kettuvallam, or sipping coconut water under a tropical sun. Days 1 & 2: Mumbai

either to the Taj Mahal Palace and Though Mumbai is India’s busiest city, Tower (only a Heritage Wing room will it’s also a perfect place to begin an unhur- do) or The Oberoi; enjoy the warm ried vacation. From the airport, head weather on a sun-bed by the pool, or

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make your way to the hotel spa for the pampering you deserve after that long journey. Alternatively, a stay at Gordon House Hotel, Colaba’s sexiest lodging option, will suit party animals who appreciate the in-house nightclub. Mumbai doesn’t have a wealth of historical attractions; it’s a city you experience rather than sightsee, and sampling the restaurants’ fare should be high on your mustdo list. From your hotel you can also explore on foot the Marine Drive/ Chowpatty Beach area, and if you’re at all inspired by Gothic Victorian architecture, plan a jaunt through Mumbai’s older districts. Stop off at the Gateway of India, from where it’s a 15-minute walk north to Fort, passing the Prince of Wales Museum as well as a host of Rajera Gothic architectural highlights. From the museum, continue to Flora Fountain and beyond to Victoria Terminus Station. Wander back to the Fountain, taking in the impressive High Court building and the Rajabai Clock Tower, which overlooks the Bombay University complex. Some of the best restaurants in Mumbai are in this general neighborhood, so take your pick. If you want to sample the coastal seafood for which Mumbai is famous, go no farther than Mahesh Lunch Home in Fort. Days 3 & 4: Goa

Fly to Goa, old Portuguese colony and beach paradise. Take your pick of accommodations, from sprawling beachfront five-star hotels to small boutique hotels. If pampering is part of your plan, book into the Pousada Tauma, a gorgeous getaway and Ayurvedic retreat with a superb in-house restaurant. If you can drag yourself away from the beach and poolside, explore Old Goa; most sights are clustered together, so it can be covered in a few hours. These include Arch of the Viceroys, built in 1597 in commemoration of the arrival of Vasco da Gama in India; Church of St. Cajetan, modeled

after St. Peter’s in Rome; and Adil Shah’s Gate, a simple lintel supported by two black basalt columns. Southwest of St. Cajetan’s are the highlights of Old Goa: splendid Sé Cathedral, said to be larger than any church in Portugal; and the Basilica of Bom Jesus (Cathedral of the Good Jesus). Nearby is the Convent and Church of St. Francis of Assisi, while up the hill are the ruins of the Church of St. Augustine; below are the Church and Convent of Santa Monica and the Chapel of the Weeping Cross. Days 5 & 6: Hampi

Take the biweekly train from Goa to Hampi, endure an overnight bus ride, or fly to Bangalore the previous evening, from where you can get a convenient overnight train to Hospet. Check in at Hampi’s Boulders. Spend your time leisurely exploring the ancient city, whose isolated ruins are scattered among impossibly balanced wind-smoothed boulders and immense stretches of verdant landscape. Highlights are fabulous Virupaksha Temple and Vitthala Temple, dedicated to an incarnation of Vishnu and one of the most spectacular of Hampi’s monuments; also make sure to see the royal enclosure, which incorporates the ruined palaces where the Vijayanagara kings would have lived and held court. Not much survives, but you can still visit Hazara Rama Temple (where the royals went to worship), a small stepped tank, and Mahanavami Dibba (a platform where performances and entertainment were held). On the outskirts of the royal complex, you will see the zenana enclosure, marked by the two-story Indo-Saracenic pavilion, Kamala (Lotus) Mahal and, just outside the enclosure, the awesome Elephant Stables. Days 7 & 8: Cochin (Kochi)

Take the train to Bangalore and from there fly to Cochin, where you should get a room in Fort Kochi (at either the Brunton Boatyard Hotel or the Malabar Residency). Fort

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Diu

Daman

Mumbai (Bombay)

200 mi

DAMAN AND DIU DADRA AND NAGAR HAVELI

Ma ha

Silvassa

New Delhi

200 km

New Delhi

nad

ORISSA

MAHARASHTRA

1–2

MAHARASHTRA ri va da Go

Nizamabad

Pune

Mumbai (Bombay)

B a y of B en g a l

Hyderabad

Solapur

Kakinada

Panaji

ANDHRA PRADESH

Kris hna

3–4

Hampi

Marmagao

5–6

GOA

Anantapur Nellore

Ar a b i a n Se a

KARNATAKA

Bangalore

Mangalore

Mysore Mahe

Salem

PONDICHERRY

Chennai (Madras)

Ba y of Bengal

Pondicherry PONDICHERRY

Kavaratti

Calicut Coimbatore (Kozhikode) PONDICHERRY TAMIL NADU KERALA LAKSHADWEEP rait Madurai Cochin 7–8 k St Pal Jaffna (Kochi) L a c c a d i ve Kumarakom 9–10

Se a

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

Kovalam

Gulf of 11–13 Mannar

MALDIVES

Kochi can be explored on foot. Visit St. Francis Church and Santa Cruz Cathedral; stop to gaze at the famous Chinese fishing nets. Drive to Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace) and Paradesi Synagogue before following your nose to the spice warehouses. Antiques lovers will be bowled over by Cochin’s antiques warehouses full of real treasures. Take a sunset cruise around the harbor at dusk and end your day dining on a seafood platter at one of Cochin’s wonderful restaurants. Days 9 & 0: Kumarakom

Drive to Alleppey to experience Kerala’s backwaters. Spend 2 nights at one of the wonderful homestays in the region (Philipkutty’s Farm or Emerald Isle) or on a houseboat; alternatively, book into

Trincomalee

INDIAN OCEAN

SRI LANKA

Coconut Lagoon or Kumarakom Lake Resort. If you opt for the houseboat experience, you bed aboard a kettuvallam, one of the long, beautifully crafted cargo boats that ply the waterways—a wonderful way to experience the rural lifestyle of the backwaters as you aimlessly drift past villages, temples, and churches. If the facilities strike you as too basic, and if you’re not keen on a homestay either, spend the night at the intimate Kayaloram Lake Resort and take a sunset backwaters cruise instead. Days !–#: Kovalam & Beyond

Drive to Trivandrum and continue beyond it to the famous Surya Samudra Beach Garden. Spread over 8 hectares (20 acres) amid terraced gardens, Surya

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has such a glorious setting that as soon as you arrive you will wonder why you didn’t come straight here in the first place. Accommodations are in the centuries-old carved wooden cottages transplanted from villages around Kerala. Much of your time here is best spent lazing by the infinity pool carved out of the rock bed or on one of the two beaches. Spend the rest of your time here enjoying Ayurvedic treatments and massages and figuring out how soon you can return. If you can bear to tear yourself away, take an early-morning excursion to sacred Kanyakumari, the southernmost tip of India, where three oceans meet and crowds worship the sunrise; or to Padmanabhapuram Palace, for several centuries the traditional home of Kerala’s Travancore royal

family. Alternatively, spend a night in the hills nearby at Duke’s Forest Lodge, located on the edge of a river and rubber plantation near Pepara Sanctuary. Book a pool pavilion—each with its own plunge pool—and enjoy a secluded romantic getaway before heading back to Surya Samudra for your final night in India. Day $: Trivandrum–Home

Completely relaxed and rejuvenated, make your way back to Trivandrum, and from there fly to Mumbai or Bangalore for your international flight back home. If you arrive in Mumbai, where you will have many hours before your flight, enjoy dinner at one of the marvelous restaurants in Mumbai’s suburbs, since the airport has no dining facilities.

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4 Mumbai: City of Dreamers umbai will bowl you over. Teetering M on the edge of the Arabian Sea, its heaving population barely contained by palmfringed beaches, India’s commercial capital, formerly known as Bombay, is a vibrant, confident metropolis that’s tangibly high in energy. Originally home to Koli fisherfolk, the seven swampy islands that today comprise Mumbai originally commanded little significance. The largest of the islands was part of a dowry given by Portugal to England, which promptly took control of the six remaining islands and then leased the lot to the East India Company for a paltry £10. Massive land-reclamation projects followed, and by the 19th century all seven islands had been fused to form one narrow promontory and India’s principal port. Today the city continues to draw fortune-seekers from all over India. More than a hundred newcomers squeeze their way in every day, adding to the coffers of greedy slum lords and placing the city, which already has a population density four times greater than New York City’s, on target for a population of 28 million by 2015. A city with a dual identity, Mumbai is as flamboyantly materialistic as it is downright choked by squalor and social drudgery. The citizens of Mumbai pay almost 40% of India’s taxes, yet half of its 18 million people are homeless. While the moneyed groovers and label-conscious shakers retire in luxury behind the security gates of their Malabar Hill man-

sions, emaciated survivors stumble home to cardboard shacks in congested shantytowns or onto tiny patches of open pavement. At every intersection you are accosted by these destitute hopefuls, framed against a backdrop of Bollywood vanity boards and massive advertisements promoting provocative underwear and sleek mobile-phone technology. Feeding into this social schizophrenia are the onedollar whores, half-naked fakirs, underworld gunmen, bearded sadhus, Bhangra VJs and, of course, movie moguls and cellphone-clutching starlets. It’s not just the economic disparities that are bewildering: Looking down from the Hanging Gardens on Malabar Hill, you see the assertively modern metropolis of Nariman Point—but just a little farther south, on Malabar Point, is the Banganga Tank, one of the city’s holiest sites, where apartment blocks overlook pilgrims who come to cleanse their souls by bathing in its mossy waters. Twenty-firstcentury Mumbai is brassy and vital, yet it can also transport you to another epoch. It is, in this sense, a quintessentially Indian city, encapsulating the raw paradoxes of the entire subcontinent. Your plane will almost certainly touch down in Mumbai—it’s the most common point of arrival for visitors, and well connected to the rest of the country (including the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Ajanta and Ellora, also located in Maharashtra, and described at the end of the chapter). If you’re looking for peace and quiet in meditative surroundings,

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Fun Fact

You Say Mumbai, I Say Bombay

In 1995, Bombay, the name the British bestowed upon the city, was renamed in honor of the local incarnation of the Hindu goddess Parvati, “Mumba Devi.” The city’s name change (along with a host of others that harked back to its colonial past) was enforced by the ruling Shiv Sena, a Hindu fundamentalist party that eschews the presence of any other than the Marathi people, a glaring irony given that this is a city of immigrants—a cocktail influenced as much by the grand Gothic monuments left by the British as by the many cultures who’ve set up shop here. Although it’s difficult to understand how goodwill can prevail in a city led by politicians bred on xenophobia, Mumbai’s wellintentioned optimism and its social cosmopolitanism prevail, and many of Mumbai’s English-speaking inhabitants still refer to it as Bombay.

move on as fast as jet lag and arrival times dictate. But if you want to experience modern India at its vibrant best, and dine at what are arguably some of the finest restaurants on the globe, tarry for at least 2 days. You may arrive appalled by the pitiful faces of the poor, shocked by the

paradox of such wealth and poverty, and overcome by the heavy, heady stench and toxic pollution. But give India’s dream factory a little time, and you’ll discover it has a sexy, smoldering soul, and a headspinning groove worth getting hip to.

1 Arrival & Orientation ARRIVING BY PLANE Most Westerners experience moderate shock when they arrive at Mumbai’s sprawling Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (& 022/2682-9000 or -9112), which wears its years of wear and tear with the indifference characteristic of much of India. The airport is located in Sahar, 30km (19 miles) north of the center (which is why it’s often called Sahar Airport). Its flights usually arrive and depart between midnight and dawn, which can make finding your feet difficult. A Government of India Tourist Office (& 022/2682-9000, ext. 3253) at the airport should be open 24 hours but—as is the case in most of India’s tourist offices—it’s certainly not the best place to obtain advice; you’ll find the contents of this book far more useful. Because you will no doubt have to wait in line for foreign exchange (there is only one small booth), it is advisable that you arrange an airport transfer to meet you— important, too, because you will be accosted by a loud, expectant mass of touts and taxi drivers the minute you exit the terminal doors, all of whom need to be treated with a degree of caution. If you are expecting a pickup, don’t get sidetracked or deterred from boarding the correct hotel shuttle—ignore strangers offering help. Should you need to hire a taxi, make use of the reliable prepaid taxi service (& 022/ 2682-9922); a trip to a city-center hotel should cost from Rs 330 to Rs 400 ($8–$9) and an additional Rs 10 (25¢) per bag. (Expect to pay well over double these rates for a hotel airport transfer, but you’ll also get a much better vehicle to travel in.) Because most international flights arrive late at night, traffic delays are usually not a problem, and you should be at your hotel within an hour even if you’re staying downtown.

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Note: Auto-rickshaws are banned from the city’s center, so don’t rely on these unless your hotel is located in the immediate vicinity of the airport. DOMESTIC AIRPORT If you are flying direct from Mumbai’s international airport on to the next destination, note that you will have to transfer (there is a free bus; make sure you get on it) to the Santa Cruz Domestic Airport (& 022/2615-6500; 4km/21⁄2 miles from the international airport and 26km/16 miles north of the city). You will have to spend the rest of the night in a very uncomfortable airport seat. If you have arrived at Santa Cruz and plan to spend some time in Mumbai, you can catch a metered taxi from the airport, which should set you back about Rs 300 ($6.85) for a trip to a hotel in the city center. Since domestic flights are likely to arrive during the day, be prepared for a long, congested, frustrating journey into Mumbai. BY TRAIN If you are traveling from Central, South, or East India, you will no doubt arrive at “VT,” Victoria Station (otherwise known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus or CST). A taxi ride farther downtown, to Colaba, should take about 10 to 15 minutes. From the north, you’ll arrive at Mumbai Central Station; from here you can either cross a footbridge to the local platform and catch another train to Churchgate Station, Colaba, or you can brave the traffic and take a taxi. WHEN TO GO Mumbai’s humidity—even in the small hours of the morning—is felt instantly, and the sun shines year-round, except in the monsoon months. You always seem drenched in warm sweat, and the heat can be terribly cruel, making sightseeing far less agreeable than a tour of the city’s wonderful restaurants and drinking holes. Winter (Nov–Feb) is still hot, although not so entirely unpleasant; the sultry sea air sets the tone for an adventure in exotic dining and an intoxicating jaunt through lively, Victorian-era streets that are constantly crammed with people. The only real relief from the heat comes for brief periods in December and January, and midyear, when the annual monsoon drenches the city with heavy, nonstop tropical rains.

CITY LAYOUT Mumbai city lies on the western coast of India, on a thin peninsula that extends southward almost parallel to the mainland. At the southern end of this peninsula are Colaba and the adjoining Fort area, on the east of which lies Mumbai’s deep, natural harbor and India’s busiest port. West of Fort, hugging the Arabian Sea, is the popular promenade Marine Drive, which begins at the business district of Nariman Point and terminates at Chowpatty Beach and Malabar Hill. These are the focal nodes for tourists who, unlike the locals, often refer to the area as downtown. In fact, locals say they are going “into town,” by which they mean they are going toward South Mumbai, the area stretching south from Mahim Creek to Colaba. South Mumbai is where most tourists choose to base themselves. It is the historic heart of the city, with attractions like the Gateway of India and the Prince of Wales Museum, and the widest selection of restaurants and accommodations. The South Mumbai neighborhoods are described in detail below, but to see where most Mumbaikars (or Bombayites) live, including the jet-set stars, it may be worthwhile to take a trip into one of the suburbs. Of these, the most interesting (and a good alternative to South Mumbai if you’re staying just one night—it’s a great deal closer to the airport) is Juhu. Extending northward of Churchgate is the Western Railway local train line, and moving north of Victoria Terminus (or CST; see below) is the Central Railway network. Together, these two suburban train systems transport over 6 million commuters each day.

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Mumbai

DINING Britannia 13 Dome 7 Excellensea 12 Gaylord Bake Shop 6 Geoffrey's 4 India Jones 3 Kandahar 3 Konkan Café 1 Mahesh Lunch Home/Apoorva 11 Moshe's 2 Noorani 18 Pearl of the Orient 9 Pisces 16 Swati Snacks 17 Salt Water Grill 15 Stadium/Mocha 10 Thackers 14 Tiffin 3

Malabar Point

Banganga Tank

Back Bay

ACCOMMODATIONS Ambassador 9 Chateau Windsor Hotel 8 Hotel Marine Plaza 4 InterContinental Marine Drive 7 The Oberoi/Hilton Towers 3 Sea Green Hotel 5 Taj President 1

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NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF Colaba

the street leading from Churchgate Because of its proximity to most of Station to Marine Drive, is lined with Mumbai’s landmarks and colonial restaurants. buildings, this, the southern tip of Marine Drive/Chowpatty Beach Mumbai, is the real tourist hub. In Marine Drive stretches from Nariman many ways its location has contributed Point in the south to Malabar Hill in to Colaba’s slightly seedy side, though the north. Edged by a broad promecertain areas have recently been rejuvenade that follows the curve of the nated. Many of the city’s budget seafront, this is a very popular place to accommodations are situated along take a morning or evening walk. At Colaba Causeway, punctuated by (at night the streetlights along this drive the northernmost end) the Taj Mahal accentuate the dramatic arch of the Hotel, Mumbai’s most famous, which bay, giving it the name Queen’s Neckis located opposite the Gateway of lace, though obviously this term is less India, Mumbai’s most famous marker, frequently used these days. Marine across from which you can see the oil Drive is a long arterial road that runs rigs of Bombay High. Apollo Bunder along the curve of Back Bay. This road refers to the area around the Gateway ends at Chowpatty Beach and then of India, though the easiest way to get climbs uphill toward the very expenthere is to ask for directions to the Taj. sive and prestigious neighborhood of Southwest of this is Cuffe Parade, an Malabar Hill. upmarket residential neighborhood, and farther south, the restricted navy Malabar Hill/Breach Candy/ Peddar Road Cantonment area. Malabar Hill connects to Napean Sea If you travel west from Colaba to the Road and beyond to Breach Candy, other end of the narrow peninsula until Kemps Corner, and Peddar Road— you hit the sea, you’ll arrive at Nariman all upmarket residential areas. Several Point, starting point of Marine Drive. hotels in this area and particularly Nariman Point was once Mumbai’s along Kemps Corner are good options most bustling business district but is for tourists who want to avoid the now facing decline (though most airheavily touristed parts of Colaba and line offices and several foreign Churchgate. embassies are still situated here).

Fort

North from Colaba is the business neighborhood called Fort. By day the area comprising Fort, Fountain, Ballard Estate, and VT (or CST) Station is an extremely busy commercial district, but at night the neighborhood is rather forlorn, with many of the large parks (maidans) empty. A little beyond VT Station is Crawford Market, which leads to the heart of Mumbai’s congested markets. Just west of the Fort area is Churchgate Station. Veer Nariman Road,

Central Mumbai

Central Mumbai extends beyond Crawford Market through Mohammedali Road and Kalbadevi to Mumbai Central Station and the fast-growing commercial areas of Lower Parel. The greatest developments are occurring around Phoenix Mills, where some of the erstwhile mill buildings have been converted into shopping complexes, restaurants, and gaming and entertainment spots. West from Mumbai Central Station are Tardeo and Haji Ali, where

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Colaba 1/10 mile

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Arabian Sea DINING Café Basilico 17 Café Mondegar 6 Chetna 3 Delhi Durbar 7 Harbour Bar/Souk/ Sea Lounge 11 Henry Tham 5 Indigo 10 Indigo Deli 8 Khyber 2 Koyla 18 Leopold Café 9 Samovar 4 Theobroma 16 Trishna 1

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you drive along yet another of Mumbai’s bays. Suburbs (Bandra & Juhu)

North of Mahim Creek extend Mumbai’s vast suburbs, from where millions commute daily. First up, just across the creek, is Bandra which, along with Juhu and Andheri (West), just north of it, is where Bollywood stars live and hang out. Although it’s not really on the tourist circuit, Bandra, being home to a sizeable portion of the city’s elite, is packed with lively restaurants, steamy clubs, and trendy bars. At night young people gather along Carter Road and Turner Road to drink, smoke (cigarettes or dope), and chill out before making their way to favored clubs. The area around Juhu Beach is where many of the city’s middle classes escape; crowded with a host of vendors flogging popular eats, ice cream, coconuts, and fresh fruit juice, it’s worth a visit to

soak up Mumbai’s carnivalesque atmosphere rather than contemplate sunbathing on the beach, which is filthy, or venturing into the even dirtier seawater. It does, however, have some fine hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs—Enigma at Juhu’s JW Marriott Hotel is one of Mumbai’s most happening spots. Just east of Juhu lie the city’s two airports and a host of upmarket hotels. The area of Andheri (East) around the international airport has become a crowded (and rather polluted) commercial and residential neighborhood. Yet many business visitors prefer to stay in this part of town if their business lies here, to avoid the stressful commute. Farther north in the suburbs is Goregaon, home to Film City, where many Bollywood films are shot; past that is Borivali, where Mumbai’s most popular theme park, EsselWorld, is situated. Beyond, the city goes on (and on), with little to tempt the visitor.

VISITOR INFORMATION Technically, there are tourist information desks at both airports, and these should be open for all flight arrivals. Don’t count on it, however, and don’t expect a lot of help, other than being handed a brochure or booklet and given some bland details of available hotels. That said, an excellent source of visitor information is the comprehensive City Info booklet, published fortnightly (every 2 weeks) and available at tourist information offices as well as upmarket hotels and even certain pubs and restaurants. For the best listings of the city’s current events and what’s hip and happening, look no further than the fortnightly magazine Time Out, available at all newsstands. The main Government of India Tourist Office (123 Maharishi Karve Rd., Churchgate; & 022/2207-4333 or -4334; Mon–Fri 8:30am–6pm, Sat 8:30am–2pm) is where to head for general tourist-related information, but if you’re staying at one of the city’s better hotels, your concierge will be a good source of information on sightseeing, performances, events, and activities.

FAST FACTS: Mumbai Airlines Domestic airlines connect Mumbai to nearly every corner of the subcontinent. For the best service, try Jet Airways, Amarchand Mansion, Madame Cama Road (& 022/5698-6111). It’s open Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm; Saturday 9am to 5:30pm; Sunday 9am to 1pm. Its check-in/reservations desk (& 022/ 5698-6111) is open round-the-clock. Indian Airlines (& 022/2202-3031 or -5654)

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is the state-owned carrier, while Air Sahara (& 022/3030-2020) flies to considerably fewer destinations. The slew of new low-cost airlines includes Air Deccan (& 9892577008 or 080/3900-8888), Spice Jet (&1600/180-3333), and Kingfisher Airlines (& 1600/180-0101). Ambulance Dial 102. You can also contact Bacha’s Nursing Home (La Citadelle, New Marine Lines; & 022/2203-2977 or 022/2200-0963) or Bombay Hospital (12 New Marine Lines; & 022/2206-7676). Or try Swati Ambulance (& 022/23871215), which has 24-hour service. American Express The office is at the Regal Cinema Building at the start of Colaba Causeway (& 022/2204-8291). Hours are Monday to Friday 9:30am to 6:30pm; Saturday 9:30am to 2:30pm. Area Code The area code for Mumbai is 022. ATMs Undoubtedly the most convenient way to get local currency, ATMs are to be found throughout the city, many of them with 24-hour security guards. Your best bet for a quick transaction is to head for an ATM machine belonging to either UTI, HDFC, ICICI, or Standard Chartered banking system. Bookstores Crossword Bookstore (Mohammedbhai Mansion, Kemps Corner, below flyover; & 022/2384-2001 through -2005) has a Western ambience and Mumbai’s largest selection of books. Alternatively, stop at Shankar’s Bookstore (& 022/2285-1887), a tiny stall just outside Café Mondegar, Colaba Causeway; or at Strand Book Stall (Sir PM Rd., Fort; & 022/2266-1994 or -1719), which offers books at great discounts. Inside the Taj Mahal Hotel is Nalanda (& 022/22871306), a good spot to shop for coffee-table books and travel-related selections. Car Hires See “Getting Around,” below. Consulates U.S.: Lincoln House, 78 Bhulabhai Desai Rd., Breach Candy (& 022/ 2363-3611 or -3617); Monday to Friday 8:30am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm; closed second and fourth Fridays of the month. U.K.: 2nd floor, Maker Chambers IV, J. B. Marg, 521 Nariman Point (& 022/5650-2222); Monday to Thursday 8am to 4pm and Friday 8am to 1:30pm. Australia: Maker Chamber VI, Nariman Point (& 022/5669-2000); Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. Canada: 41/42 Maker Chambers VI, Nariman Point (& 022/2287-6027); Monday to Thursday 9am to 5:30pm; Friday 9am to 3pm. South Africa: Gandhi Mansion, Altamount Road, near Kemp’s Corner (& 022/2389-3725); Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm. Currency Exchange Thomas Cook India is located in the Thomas Cook Building, Dr. D. Naoroji Road, Fort (& 022/2204-8556), and is open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 7pm. Or head to the American Express Office (details above). Directory Assistance The main directory inquiry number is & 197 (if you can get through). For talking Yellow Pages service or any other useful information, call the much more helpful Just Dial Services at & 022/2888-8888, Times Infoline at & 022/2600-5555, or Ask Me at & 022/2261-6666. Drugstores In South Mumbai, Bombay Hospital Chemist (& 022/2206-7676) is open 24 hours. Near Juhu, call Empire Chemists (& 022/2671-8970). Emergencies See “Police,” below.

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Hospitals Breach Candy Hospital, 60 Warden Rd., Breach Candy (& 022/23633651, 022/2367-1888, or 022/2367-2888), is open 24 hours and is one of the most advanced and reliable hospitals in Mumbai. Bombay Hospital, 12 New Marine Lines (& 022/2206-7676), is more centrally located and has a 24-hour ambulance service. Internet Access For a cheap (about Rs 30/70¢ per hour), reliable connection, pop into Waghela, 23-B Nowroji Furdunji Rd., Colaba (& 022/2204-8718). Open daily 8:30am to midnight, it’s just around the corner from Leopold’s Café. For better broadband speeds, try Amrut Cyberworld Cybercafé near Churchgate Station (8 Prem Court, behind Samrat Hotel; & 022/2284-0174). Newspapers & Magazines For the scoop on day-to-day city news, buy a copy of the local rag Mid Day, sold on street corners and at intersections from early in the morning. The Indian Express and The Times of India are both good national dailies that provide the lowdown on current and social events. Time Out Mumbai is a fortnightly (twice-monthly) magazine that has the best listings of events and happenings, as well as interesting city features. Police Call & 1090 for a general police emergency number. Local numbers are: Colaba & 022/2285-6817; Cuffe Parade & 022/2218-8009; Juhu & 022/2618-4308; Khar & 022/2649-6030; Malabar Hill & 022/2363-7571; Andheri & 022/2683-1562. Post Office You’ll find the General Post Office near Victoria Terminus, off Nagar Chowk (& 022/2262-4343 or -0956). It’s open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm. Restrooms Make full use of your bathroom facilities before you head out for a day of sightseeing. Use only restrooms in hotels and upmarket restaurants. Taxis See “Getting Around,” below. Travel Agencies Contact IATA-affiliated NAC Travels Pvt Ltd, 412 Raheja Centre, Nariman Point (& 022/2202-8810; [emailprotected]); or the reliable Travel Corporation of India (TCI) in the Chandermukhi Building, also at Nariman Point (& 022/2202-1881 or -7120).

2 Getting Around Mumbai is a city on the go—but don’t expect to get anywhere fast, because traffic is lousy at the best of times. Already, close to a million vehicles crowd the streets, and each week another 1,400 scooters and cars join the congestion caused by battered black-and-yellow taxis, Marutis, expensive sedans and SUVs, copies of leftover red double-decker Routemaster buses, and the occasional cow. You will certainly need to take a taxi to get around (or, if you’re arriving from the airport, arrange a transfer with your hotel; see “Arriving,” earlier in this chapter). If you’re overnighting in the Colaba–Fort area, you will, for the most part, be able to get around on foot.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION BY TAXI Metered taxis (in which you don’t bargain but pay a rate dependent on mileage predetermined by a structured fare card) are available everywhere (flag them down when you see the meter flag up), but note that you’ll be riding in rather battered

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Fiats from the 1960s. That said, Mumbai is one of the few places in India where using the meter is the norm—in fact, no local would go anywhere without a taxi driver using his meter. Typically, the taxi meters in Mumbai are mounted on the vehicle hoods, and taxi drivers are required to carry a conversion chart that tells passengers how much they owe, based on the original fare displayed on the ludicrously old-fashioned meters. Do not start the journey before checking to see if the driver is carrying the correct chart; these are sometimes tampered with, so vital information is missing—for example, the part of the chart informing you that the rates quoted are for nighttime travel, which are higher. If you’re in any doubt, ask a policeman or your hotel doorman to decipher the fare for you, but in essence you can calculate how much you have to pay by multiplying what’s on the meter by approximately Rs 14 (32¢); add on 25% if you are traveling between midnight and 5am, and Rs 5 to Rs 7 (10¢–15¢) per piece of sizeable luggage. Nothing more. If you’re looking for a vehicle for the day, you can strike a deal with a private taxi driver directly, but here you should negotiate the deal upfront—you should pay around Rs 700 to Rs 800 ($16–$18), plus a tip, for an 8-hour (or 80km/50-mile) stint. Note that it’s worth shelling out extra for an air-conditioned cab—you’re likely to spend long stretches waiting in traffic jams at overcrowded intersections. To rent an air-conditioned car and an English-speaking driver privately (which will cost a bit more but may remove the hassle of haggling), the following operators are recommended: Cool Cabs (52 Andheri; & 022/2492-7006, 022/2822-7006, or 022/ 2824-6216); Car Hirers (1403 Arcadia, Nariman Point; & 022/2283-4689; www. carhirers.com); Euro Cars (Suburban Service Station, 261 S.V. Rd., Bandra W.; & 022/2655-2424; www.eurocars-india.com); and Ketan Travels Pvt. Ltd. (R.T. Building, P.M. Rd., Vile Parle E.; & 022/2614-0554; www.ketancars.com). Hertz (& 022/5570-2126; [emailprotected]) offers chauffeur-driven cars throughout the subcontinent. Hiring a taxi through your hotel can get very pricey, but the fleet of cars maintained by some of the upmarket hotels is unlikely to be matched in quality by anyone in the city, and it may be convenient to have taxi charges added to your hotel bill. Do, however, remember to tip your driver directly. BY TRAIN Train travel in the city is strictly for the adventurous, but then again, joining the peak-hour commuters gives you the opportunity to see how the other half lives, as the tracks wend their ways through some of the city’s most squalid slums. A first-class return ticket from Victoria Terminus to the suburb of Thane costs about Rs 210 ($5). Travel only during off-peak times and leave luggage and valuables in your hotel room.

Finding (and Losing) Your Way . . . It soon becomes apparent that Mumbai is not a planned city but has mushroomed according to the needs, wisdom, and follies of its citizens and administrators. Street names in particular can be confusing to first-time visitors; street signs, when they exist, are often ignored—many people continue to use the old colonial names instead. Colaba Causeway, for example, is the colloquial name for Shahid Bhagat Singh Road; Breach Candy for Bhulabhai Desai Road; and Peddar Road for Deshmukh Marg. In times of confusion, refer to a landmark (or hotel); for example, if you’re trying to find Veer Nariman Road and no one understands you, ask for Churchgate Station instead.

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Tips

Dealing with Beggars

When long-time BBC India Bureau Chief Mark Tully was asked: “How do you cope with the poverty of India?” he responded, “I don’t have to; they do.” As a first-time visitor, you will no doubt be struck first and foremost by the seemingly endless ordeal of the impoverished masses. Families of beggars will twist and weave their way around the cars at traffic lights, hopping and even crawling to your window with displays of open wounds, diseased sores, crushed limbs, and starving babies, their hollow eyes imploring you for a few life-saving rupees. Locals will tell you that these poverty performances are Mafia-style rackets, with protection money going to gangs, and sickly babies being passed around to gain more sympathy for their “parents.” In the worst of these tales of horror, children are maimed to up the ante by making them appear more pathetic. The choice is stark: Either lower the window and risk having a sea of unwelcome faces descend on you, or stare ahead and ignore them. To salve your conscience, tip generously those who have made it onto the first rung of employment.

ORGANIZED TOURS & TRIPS You will be offered tours of various descriptions by at least half the people you meet on the streets of Mumbai; everyone from your taxi driver to the man who asks you for the time will have a contact in the tourism industry who’ll be more than happy to take you sightseeing. Use your discretion, watch your wallet, and remember that Mumbai’s traffic makes it impossible to see everything in one day. To arrange a legitimate tour of the city, set it up through your hotel, which should have access to the best guides (meaning those with the best English and best knowledge). Or contact Maharashtra Tourist Development Corporation (Madame Cama Rd., opposite L.I.C. Building; & 022/2202-6713 or -7762) or any Government of India Tourist Office (123 Maharishi Karve Rd., Churchgate; & 022/2203-3144; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm). Bear in mind that there’s little point in seeing Mumbai only from the back seat of a chauffeur-driven taxi; leave time to explore the city on foot. If you’re keen on architecture, a group of young architects conducts Bombay Heritage Walks on Sunday (& 022/2683-5856; mid-Sept to May 5–6:30pm; by prior arrangement only; Rs 100/$2.30)—these tours take in various fascinating parts of the city. Note: One of the best-organized trips in the city is the boat trip departing halfhourly from the Gateway to Elephanta Island (see “What to See & Do,” below).

3 What to See & Do Mumbai doesn’t have the wealth of historical attractions of, say, Kolkata or Delhi. Rather, it is a city that revolves around its manic pace and the head-spin energy exuded by the millions of diverse people who have settled here. This is a city you experience rather than sightsee, and sampling from the fantastic restaurants described later in the chapter should be highest on your must-do list. That said, Mumbai does have a few attractions you should make time for; and be sure to set aside time to explore at least part of the Colaba/Fort area, described below, on foot—do this at the beginning of

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the day before the heat becomes suffocating. Another good area to explore on foot is the Marine Drive/Chowpatty Beach stretch, possibly after a boat trip to Elephanta Island. Finally, you may wish to visit Malabar Hill, also in the South Mumbai area and home to two top attractions (see below), as well as the Hanging Gardens (also known as Ferozeshah Mehta Gardens). Laid out in the early 1880s, the terraced park at the top of Malabar Hill covers (or “hangs over”) the city’s main water reservoir, but unfortunately it fails to live up to its spectacular-sounding name. The best reason to visit here is to wander over to Kamala Nehru Park (across the road from the Hanging Gardens), from where you have a great view of Nariman Point’s skyscrapers and the sumptuous curve of Marine Drive.

EXPLORING COLABA & FORT If you’re at all inspired by Gothic Victorian architecture, then a jaunt through Mumbai’s older districts is essential. Most tours kick off at the Gateway of India (see below), but a more authentic place to start, given Mumbai’s origins, is Sassoon Docks (aka the Fisherman’s Market; daily 4am–noon), which lies just south of the Gateway, off Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg (near Colaba Bus Station). Most of the delicious seafood dishes in the city’s finest establishments start out here, where Koli women in rainbowcolored saris whip the shells off prawns while others gut and sort fish. Get here early (5am), when the boats return with their first catch, for the vibrant, communal spirit as baskets full of fish are moved around the dock through various stages of processing. It makes for absorbing viewing. From here, catch a cab or walk to the Gateway, possibly stopping for a refresher at the Taj Mahal Hotel, situated directly opposite. From here it’s a 15-minute walk north to Fort, Mumbai’s cultural center, where you will find the superb Prince of Wales Museum (see below), nearby Jehangir Art Gallery, and the National Gallery of Modern Art, as well as a host of Raj-era Gothic architectural highlights. From the museum you can either head north along M. Gandhi Road to Flora Fountain, hub of downtown Mumbai, or travel southwest down the famous Colaba Causeway. Surrounded by colonial buildings that testify to the solid architecture of a bygone era, Flora Fountain has, since 1960, had to compete for attention with a Martyrs’ Memorial that honors those who died in the creation of the state of Maharashtra. As you head toward the fountain, take in the impressive High Court building (which overlooks the Oval Maidan, where aspiring cricketers practice their paces), the neoclassical Army & Navy Building, and the 78m (256-ft.) Rajabai Clock Tower, which towers over the Bombay University complex. East of the fountain lies Horniman Circle, where you will find the Town Hall, a regal colonnaded building with original parquet wood floors, wrought-iron loggias, spiral staircases, and marble statues of leaders associated with Mumbai’s history. The major drawing card here is the Asiatic Society Library, which has a collection of around 800,000 valuable texts. You can join the seniors and students who fill the library’s popular reading room to peruse local newspapers and check out the public book collection, but you’ll need special permission if you’re interested in looking at some of the priceless treasures. Also facing Horniman Circle is the late-19th-century Gothic Venetian Elphinstone Building and, opposite it, on Veer Nariman Road, St. Thomas’ Cathedral, thought to be the oldest colonial structure in Mumbai. (Note that if you head west along Veer Nariman Rd., known for its many good restaurants, you will come to Marine Dr.) St. Thomas’ Cathedral is a stark contrast to the pink and blue neoclassical Kenneth Eliyahoo Synagogue, Mumbai’s oldest and loveliest Sephardic synagogue, located off

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Need a Break? Besides the options listed under “Where to Dine,” below, the following are pleasant places to pop in for a snack or drink if you don’t feel like having a full meal. In the Colaba area are several superb spots. The recently opened Indigo Deli was created very much in the image of an upmarket New York delicatessen (& 022/5656-1010; open until midnight). It serves typically Western breakfasts from 7:30 to 10:30am, but buzzes all day long. The Indigo has a variety of imported cheeses, cold meats, and fresh breads—all of exceptional quality— which can be transformed into sandwiches of your choice. Prices are steep, especially the for wines, but you’re also paying for the ambience. At the south end of the Causeway is Theobroma, a small bakery run by sisters Tina and Kainaz, who make you feel immediately at home. You can sit at one of the few tables and nibble on brownies (six varieties!), a chicken pesto sandwich, or one of the other innumerable desserts (Cusrow Baug, Shop no. 24, Colaba Causeway; & 022/5629-2929; sandwiches Rs 55–Rs 75/$1.15–$1.75; desserts Rs 15–Rs 55/35¢–$1.15). Across the street and toward the sea is Café Basilico (Sentinel House, Arthur Bunder Rd., next to Radio Club, Colaba; & 022/5634-5670 or -5671; sandwiches Rs 145–Rs 210/$3.40–$4.75; mains Rs 190–Rs 320/$4.50–$7), which does lip-smacking waffles, muffins, breads, cereals, and juices for breakfast, and sandwiches, pastas, and much more throughout the day. Sunday brunch here is a feast and great value at Rs 400 ($9.10). The cafe is also one of the few places in the city where you can get a bagel, though we can’t vouch for its authenticity. At Cuffe Parade is Moshe’s (Minoo Manor; & 022/2216-1226; breakfast Rs 85–Rs 175/$2–$4; sandwiches Rs 175–Rs 210/$4–$4.75; mains Rs 190–Rs 320/$4.50–$7), an upmarket restaurant that offers Middle Eastern fusion food (plus wine), sandwiches, snacks, good breakfasts, and a fairly decent bagel with cream cheese (Rs 45/$1). Avoid dinnertime, when it’s crowded and unbelievably noisy. Moshe’s also has a little cafe at Kemp’s Corner inside the Crossword Bookstore. Stadium (& 022/2204-6819) is a cheap, unpretentious Irani restaurant outside Churchgate Station where you can sip chai or a cold drink while you contemplate your next move. Across the street (though you will have to walk all around to get there) is Gaylords Bake Shop, with fresh breads, croissants, and assorted bites available all day. Geoffrey’s (& 022/2285-1212), at the Marine Plaza Hotel, is a cozy bar, with a somewhat overdone English-pub decor. More casual is New York (& 022/5608-4187) on Hughes Road—not to be mistaken for the New Yorker restaurant, also at Chowpatty nearby, where you can sip a beer anytime; it’s one of the few places in the city with a jukebox. On Chowpatty, Cream Centre (see Marine Dr. and Chowpatty Beach in “Top Attractions: Downtown”) serves good food, but it’s not the kind of place you can linger. You can hang around almost endlessly at any of the numerous coffee shops that have opened all over the city. Barista and Café Coffee Day outlets are everywhere, but more atmospheric is Mocha, which also serves specialty coffees (and fruit-flavored hookahs outdoors) at its cafes at Churchgate (Nagin Mahal, Veer Nariman Rd.; & 022/5633-6070), Bandra (Hill Rd., near Holy Family Hospital; & 022/2643-3098), and Juhu (just across from the beach; & 022/2617-7524).

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K. Dubash Marg, on Forbes Street. North of Flora Fountain, up Dr. Dadabhai Naoroji Road, is the Art Deco–style Parsi fire temple, Watcha Agiary. Built in 1881, it features carvings in a distinctly Assyrian style. If you prefer shopping (albeit of a tourist-trap nature) to architecture, opt for the famous Causeway (now officially renamed Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, though, thankfully, no one refers to it as such). Budget travelers have long been drawn to this vibrant street, but in recent years Colaba and its side streets have begun to slip into an increasingly urbane and upmarket second skin. Hip bars, swinging clubs, and tasteful restaurants are drawing the smart crowd. Anything and everything seems to be available from the hawkers on Colaba’s sidewalks and back alleys, whether it’s fruit, cheap cigarettes, currency, or hashish. Shop in exclusive boutiques or rummage through heaps of cheap trinkets sold on the sidewalks, where you can bargain for everything from imitation perfume to piles of cheap, tasteless T-shirts, all the while avoiding the advances of streetwise beggars and con artists sporting half-moon smiles and incongruous American accents. Beyond the southernmost end of the Causeway (that’s if you manage to get this far south before grabbing a taxi and heading for the peace of your hotel room!), in the restricted Navy Nagar area, you will see the neo-Gothic Afghan Memorial Church of St. John the Evangelist. Dating back to 1858, it memorializes those who fell in the First Afghan War—proof yet again of Mumbai’s mosaic past.

TOP ATTRACTIONS: DOWNTOWN Easily the most recognizable remnant of the British Raj, the Gateway was designed by George Wittet (also responsible for the Prince of Wales Museum). The Gujarati-inspired yellow basalt structure was supposed to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary, who arrived in 1911 to find a fake cardboard structure instead; the Gateway was eventually completed in 1924 and was the final departure point for the British when they left Indian soil in 1947. It is the most obvious starting point for any tour of Mumbai (and is where the boats to Elephanta are launched), and to this end it draws large numbers of visitors as well as hordes of locals keen to take money off unsuspecting foreigners. The area makes for a quick-fix introduction to Mumbai tout dynamics; expect to be offered everything from photographs of yourself posing here to hashish to young girls. Opposite the Gateway is an equestrian statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji, the Maratha hero who gives his name to several renamed Mumbai institutions. More impressive—in beauty and size—is the hotel behind the Gateway, which in many ways symbolizes Mumbaikars’ determined and enterprising attitudes. Inspired by its namesake in Agra, the Taj Mahal Hotel (see “Where to Stay,” below) was built just over a century ago by an ambitious industrialist named Jamshedji Tata—according to legend, because he wanted to avenge the whites-only policy of Watson’s, then the city’s poshest hotel. Designed by a European architect who mailed the plans to India, it has been said that the hotel was mistakenly constructed back-to-front, so what was meant to be a fantastic sea-facing facade actually overlooks a side street— patently untrue, as you will see if you walk around the palatial edifice. What cannot be refuted is how much it dominates Colaba’s waterfront, its six-story domed structure best viewed from an offshore boat. Alternatively, for a great view of the Gateway, head inside the Taj and make for the Sea Lounge or Harbour Bar.

Gateway of India & Taj Mahal Hotel

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Marg. Gateway information: & 022/2202-3585 or -6364. Half-hour harbor cruise Rs 40 (90¢) deluxe.

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Elephanta Island Caves For a taste of Mumbai’s early history and an opportunity to view the city’s skyline from the water (not to mention escape from the tumult of the streets), grab a ferry and head out to Elephanta Island, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. The hour-long trip also provides a good introduction to Hinduism; the guides on board describe the religious significance of what you’re about to see, though the origins of the Shiva temple caves—thought to date from the revivalist Hindu movement between A.D. 450 and 750—remain obscure. Entry is via the main northern entrance to a massive hall supported by large pillars, where the enormous Trimurti statue is housed. At 6.3m (18 ft.), the remarkable sculpture depicts Shiva in his three-headed aspect: as Creator (Vamadeva, facing right), Protector (Maheshmurti, the crowned face at the center), and Destroyer (Bhairadeva, facing left, with serpents for hair). Left of the Trimurti is Shiva as both male and female: Ardhanarishvara, an aspect suggesting the unity of all opposites. Other sculptures refer to specific actions of the god and events in Hindu mythology, but many were damaged or destroyed by the Portuguese, who apparently used the Hindu gods for target practice. It’s practical to bring along a local guide (free) even though they rarely speak very good English. Watch listings for music and dance performances. Tip: Plan your trip so that you can witness sunset over the Mumbai skyline on your return journey, then pop into the Taj Mahal Hotel for a post-culture cocktail. Note that music and dance festival performances are held here every year in February. 9km (51⁄2 miles) from Mumbai. Tickets and ferries from the Gateway of India. Admission Rs 250 ($5.70), Rs 25 (55¢) camera, Rs 25 (55¢) video. Ferry ticket Rs 110 ($2.50). Boats depart from the Gateway of India every half-hour Tues–Sun 9am–3:30pm.

Prince of Wales Museum Renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, but thankfully also known by its colonial name, this is Mumbai’s top museum and arguably the best in India, providing an extensive and accessible introduction to Indian history and culture. The Indo-Saracenic building itself is rather lovely, but it is the collection that is outstanding, not least because it is well laid out (unlike the collections of most museums throughout the subcontinent) and aided by a useful audioguide highlighting “Curator’s Choice” exhibits. The central hall features a “précis” of the collection, but don’t stop there—from sculptures of Hindu deities to beautiful temple art, Buddhist thangkas from Nepal and Tibet to gruesome Maratha weaponry, there is much to see. Highlights are found on the first floor: Among them are the spectacular collection of more than 2,000 miniature paintings representing India’s various schools of art (look for the portrait of Shah Jahan, creator of the Taj Mahal), and the exhibit relating to the Indus Valley Civilization (which is remarkably civilized considering that it dates from 3500 B.C.). Least impressive is the natural history section with its collection of stuffed animals. Note: Art lovers may wish to include a visit to Jehangir Art Gallery (& 022/ 2284-3989), located a little farther along M Gandhi Road, and open daily from 11am to 7pm, free of charge. You can probably give the main exhibition halls on the ground floor a miss—the exhibits there are fairly mediocre. Instead, head upstairs to Gallery Chemould (& 022/2284-4356; daily 10:30am–6:30pm), a tiny, history-filled gallery that often features some of India’s best contemporary artists. For reviews of current art exhibitions, consult Time Out Mumbai or “The Hot List,” the entertainment supplement in the local rag Mid Day. 159/161 Mahatma Gandhi Rd., Fort. & 022/2284-4519. [emailprotected]. Rs 300 ($6.85), includes audioguide. Tues–Sun 10:15am–5:45pm.

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Also rechristened in Mumbai’s nationalist-inspired anti-Raj drive, but more often than not referred to as “VT,” this baroque, cathedral-like building must rank as Mumbai’s most marvelous Raj-era monument. India’s very first steam engine left this station when it was completed in 1887; today at least a thousand trains leave every day, carrying some 2.5 million commuters in and out of the city. With its vaulted roofs, arches, Gothic spires, flying buttresses, gables crowned by neoclassical sculptures, stone carvings, and exquisite friezes, the terminus is an architectural gem, worth entering to see the massive ribbed Central Dome (topped by a statue of the torch-wielding “Progress”) that caps an octagonal tower featuring beautiful stained-glass windows with colorful images of trains and floral patterns. But come, too, for the spectacle of the disparate people, from sari-clad beauties to half-naked fakirs, that makes up Mumbai. Get here just before lunch to watch the famous dabba-wallas stream out into the city: A vast network of dabba-wallas transfer some 200,000 cooked lunches, prepared by housewives for their office-bound husbands, and kept warm in identical dabbas (metal tiffin containers), through a unique sorting and multiple-relay distribution system; later in the afternoon these empty dabbas are returned to their home of origin. The success of this system (no one gets the wrong lunch) is proof of how well India works, despite its reputation for obstructive bureaucracy. In fact, following a study of this network, U.S. business magazine Forbes gave it a Six Sigma (99.99% accuracy) performance rating, which means that just one error occurs in six million transactions.

Victoria Terminus (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus)

Dr. Dadabhai Naoroji Rd., Fort.

Marine Drive & Chowpatty Beach Marine Drive (renamed Netaji Subhash Chandra Marg) follows the sweeping curve of sea that stretches north from Nariman Point’s high-rise buildings to infamous Chowpatty Beach, located at the foot of Malabar Hill. It’s the ultimate seaside promenade, where Mumbaikars come to escape the claustrophobia of central Mumbai, gratefully eyeing an endless horizon while strolling or jogging along the broad windswept promenade. In the evenings, casual, single-item snack stalls are set up for brisk trade. This is the city’s ultimate sunset spot, when—having watched the orange globe sink into the Arabian Sea—you can witness the street lights transform Marine Drive into the aptly named Queen’s Necklace, a choker-length of twinkling jewels adorning Back Bay. The scene is perhaps best enjoyed with cocktail in hand at one of Marine Drive’s classier establishments: either the rooftop restaurant at the InterContinental Marine Drive or The Oberoi’s Bayview Bar, which also offers jazz music and cigars. Once the sun has set, catch a ride (or walk) north along Marine Drive to Chowpatty, Bombay’s oldest seafront. Chowpatty is no longer the filth-ridden extravaganza its longacquired reputation suggests (though it’s still not in any state for sunbathing or swimming), and at night it assumes the demeanor of a colorful fair. Children of all ages flock to ride the ancient Ferris wheels and tacky merry-go-rounds, and fly-by-night astrologers, self-styled contortionists, snake charmers, and trained monkeys provide the flavor of the bazaar—and bizarre—especially on weekends. This is where locals love to consume the city’s famous street snacks, especially bhelpuri: crisp puffed rice, vegetables, and fried lentil-flour noodles doused in a pungent chutney of chili, mint, and tamarind, then scooped up with a flat puri (puffy deep-fried bread). Chowpatty bhelpuri is renowned throughout India, sold here by the eponymous bhelwallas, who now ply their trade in Bhel Plaza, where other traditional treats like kulfi are on offer at dirt-cheap prices. Tip: It’s inadvisable to eat here—unfortunately, flavor, not hygiene, enjoys top

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priority. After you’ve watched the multitudes gorging vast quantities of assorted snack foods, cross the street and get your own chaat at Cream Centre (25 Fulchand Niwas, Chowpatty Beach; & 022/2367-9222 or -9333; all credit cards accepted; noon–midnight). For close to half a century, this vegetarian snack place has been serving up delicious food—so good, in fact, that whenever you pass Chowpatty Beach in the evening, you’ll see a queue of people waiting to get in. Alternatively, make a meal of the signature channa bhatura (spiced chickpeas and a large puri), a typical Punjabi dish that is made everywhere but rarely so well as here. When you’re done, step out of the restaurant, turn left, and walk down to the end of the pavement to a hole-in-the-wall (but very hygienic) juice shop called Bachelorr’s (yes, with two r’s) for deliciously refreshing seasonal fresh fruit ice creams and juices—but do make sure you ask for your juice without ice, water, or masala. To experience Mumbai at its most exuberant, head to Chowpatty Beach for the culmination of Ganesh Chaturthi , the city’s biggest and most explosive celebration. Held in honor of the much-loved elephant-headed god (here called Ganpati), the 10-day festival culminates on the last day, when a jubilant procession is held and thousands of huge Ganpati idols are immersed in the sea. Ganesh Chaturthi is held in September; for exact dates contact the Government of India Tourist Office. Jain Temple This is arguably the prettiest temple in Mumbai (indeed, Jain temples are generally the prettiest in India). If your itinerary does not include a visit to one elsewhere (the most famous being in Rajasthan), do make the time to visit Mumbai’s. Members of the Jain community are known to be exceptionally adept in the world of business, and although they believe in self-restraint and aestheticism (orthodox Jains will not tread on an ant, and at their most extreme wear masks to

Moments

Touching God

There were still hundreds of people streaming onto Chowpatty Beach for the finale on Monday, when idols of Ganpati are immersed in the sea. I had expected to see the shore where it normally is, but today it extended another quarter-mile—thousands of people were already in the water! Trucks with 6mhigh (20-ft.) Ganesh idols lined up on the sand, awaiting their turn alongside families wanting to drop their small, lap-sized idols into the sea. Engulfed by teeming masses and deafened by the sound of singing devotees and driving drumbeats, Vanessa and I locked hands so that we wouldn’t lose each other. As we navigated the crowds, one of the large Ganesh idols rocked forward off its flatbed, prompting a small stampede as people standing nearby tried to escape. Luckily, the men holding the ropes managed to steady and pull the giant idol upright. Hundreds of volunteers and security officials worked to maintain order, many thankfully eager to help two conspicuously foreign women—one official even held an entire line of men at bay. As he ushered us to a less crowded space, a giant Ganesh adorned with plastic grass and flowers passed en route to the shore. The security guard watched the two of us admiring the decorations and asked, “Would you like to touch God?” “Sure!” I exclaimed. As I reached over to touch Ganesh’s feet, I wondered why every Monday couldn’t include an intimate moment with the divine. —Megan Neumeister, Indophile

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Bollywood Celebrity: High-Octane Overdrive It’s inevitable that the world’s biggest film industry (twice as many films are made here as in Hollywood) would produce a host of celebrities, but in India stars are worshipped with the fervor usually reserved for gods and goddesses. Sadly, the virtues associated with religious idols often don’t apply to the stars themselves. In 2002, when one of Bollywood’s high-octane celebrities, 37-year-old Salman Khan, got slam-drunk and skidded onto a sidewalk, killing a man who—like so many of Mumbai’s citizens—lived on the pavement outside the laundry where he worked, it turned out to be one of the media events of the decade, with arresting officers ordering prints of the front-page photos of themselves “posing” with the superstar, and readers rallying behind the “unfair” treatment of their hero. Khan’s stardom proved to be his “get-out-of-jail-quick” card; he spent a mere 17 days in prison, claiming it was his chauffeur who had been behind the wheel. Frankly, it will be a miracle if he is ever convicted.

avoid breathing in even tiny insects), they pour large sums into the construction and maintenance of their places of worship. Officially called Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple, this beautifully decorated and adorned temple has an entrance flanked by two stone elephants. The downstairs area houses an array of deities and saints, including an image of Ganesh that recalls historical links between Jainism and Hinduism. Ridge Rd., Walkeshwar (Malabar Hill). & 022/2369-2727. Daily 5am–9pm.

Mahatma Gandhi lived in this quaint Gujarati-style house from 1917 to 1934, and it was here in November 1921 that he conducted a 4-day fast in order to restore peace to the city. This quiet three-story home on a beautiful Laburnum tree-lined avenue now preserves the spirit of the man who selflessly put his nation before himself. There’s a library of Gandhi-related works, as well as displays of photographs, posters, slogans, and other items that document and explain Gandhi’s legendary life; dioramas depicting major events and turning points in his fight for the nation’s freedom draw particular attention to his devotion to the poor. You can see Gandhi’s old charkha (spinning wheel), which in many ways symbolized the struggle for independence, as it represented a return to roots and to sustainable home industry, where anyone can weave his or her own cloth. A visit to this tranquil spot makes a welcome change from the continuous hubbub of life in Mumbai—go up to the roof to really appreciate the relative stillness of the surrounding neighborhood.

Mani Bhavan Gandhi Museum

19 Laburnam Rd., near Malabar Hill. & 022/2380-5864. www.gandhi-manibhavan.org. Donations appreciated. Daily 10am–5:30pm.

Here the paradox of traditional life coexisting with unbridled modernization is all too vivid. Near the edge of the Arabian Sea at the southern tip of Malabar Hill, several small, crumbling, stone-turreted temples and flower-garlanded shrines surround a rectangular pool of holy water in an area of looming modern-day skyscrapers and encroaching urbanization. Ritual bathers who come here believe the mossy waters have healing powers and originated from a natural spring created by an arrow shot by Rama (the hero of the Ramayana), who rested here while on a mission

Banganga Tank

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to rescue his beloved Sita from the demon king’s abode in Lanka. The source of the spring is said to be an underground offshoot of the Ganga, and the waters are considered just as sacred as those of the great river itself. In the shadow of one of present-day Mumbai’s most prosperous neighborhoods, Banganga continues to function as an outof-time devotional hub, its tolling bells and mantra-chanting pujaris drawing devotees to worship the divine. If you’re here in December, scour local newspapers for news of the open-air concerts held at the Banganga Festival. Walkeshwar Rd., Malabar Hill.

TOP ATTRACTIONS OUTSIDE DOWNTOWN MUMBAI Dhobi Ghat It’s a fascinating spectacle, looking down on row upon row of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone, while Bombay’s dhobis (around 200 dhobi families work together here) relentlessly pound the dirt from the city’s garments in a timeless tradition. Known as the world’s largest outdoor laundry, Dhobi Ghat is where Mumbai’s traditional washerfolk—or dhobis—provide a wonderful service, collecting dirty laundry, washing it, and returning it neatly pressed, all for a very small fee. Stubborn stains are removed by soaking garments in a boiling vat of caustic soda; drying takes place on long, brightly colored lines; and heavy woodburning irons are used for pressing. At the very least, it’s a great photo opportunity, though most locals think it rather amusing that their everyday work arouses such curiosity. (Note that there is another Dhobi Ghat off Capt. Prakash Petha Marg, Colaba, which may be more accessible.) Dr. E. Moses Rd. (near Mahalakshmi Station).

MARKETS Mumbai has more than 70 markets, and it’s worthwhile to spend a couple of hours exploring at least one, not so much for the shopping (for that, see “Shopping,” later in this chapter) as for the human spectacle of it all. Flowers are an intrinsic part of Indian culture, and Bhuleshwar Wholesale Flower Market (CP Tank Circle; dawn–noon) is the best place in the city to witness the Indian romance with color and fragrance. Note that according to Hindu beliefs, if you touch or sniff the flowers, you’ll ruin them—so don’t. Chor Bazaar (Thieves’ Market) (Mutton St., off Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Rd.; Sat–Thurs 11am–7pm) conjures up Arabian Nights’ cloak-and-dagger intrigue and

Moments

Bewitched by Alphonso

Along with the unbearable heat, summer brings forth crops of beauteous mangoes, dozens of varieties of which are available only in India. King of them all is unquestionably the Alphonso. You may have eaten mangoes in Mexico, Thailand, or even other parts of India, but until you’ve sucked on the succulent bright orange pulp of the Alphonso, with its bewitching scent and unimaginably divine flavor, you’ll miss a sensory experience like no other. The best Alphonsos originate from Ratnagiri in rural Maharashtra. To make sure you’re getting the real thing, ask your hotel to find you one, or explore the fruit section at Mumbai’s Crawford Market. Prices start at Rs 1,000 ($23) a dozen in March and go down to Rs 160 ($3.45) a dozen when the season peaks in May; note that these mangoes often need to be kept a day or two to ripen before eating.

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Moments

Catch a Bollywood Blockbuster

You can’t say you’ve properly done the biggest film-producing city on earth if you haven’t gone to the cinema to catch a blockbuster, or tried to. Listings are found in daily newspapers, where you can also determine quality and even figure out the storyline by reading reviews written by contenders for the world’s bitchiest critic; alternatively, ask your hotel concierge for recommendations. Of course, you can always get completely into the swing of things by picking up a copy of one of Bollywood’s gossip magazines. Filmfare and Stardust not only fill you in on what’s hot or what’s not, but are crammed with glossy, airbrushed close-ups of silver-screen idols. Cinemas that also offer historic Art Deco appeal include once wonderful but now run-down Eros Cinema (opposite Churchgate Station; & 022/2282-2335); and lovely Liberty Cinema (& 022/2203-1196; a short walk from Eros, near Bombay Hospital), where upper-stall tickets (the best in the house) still cost just Rs 60 ($1.35). Besides the Bollywood melodrama, you get to admire the wonderful Art Deco interiors, with majestic high ceilings, white cedar and teak paneling, ’60s-style soda fountain, magnificent huge etched mirrors on the stairwells, mock fountains, and old movie posters.

visions of precious rings sold with the finger of the former owner still attached, but in reality this is a fun place to rummage through an extravagant assortment of antiques, fakes, and junk and get into the rhythm of that favorite Indian pastime: bargaining. If you visit only one market, make it Crawford Market (Lokmanya Tilak Marg and Dr. Dadabhai Naoroji Rd.; Mon–Sat 11:30am–8pm), Mumbai’s quintessential fresh-produce shopping experience, now officially known as Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Market. Dating back to the 1860s, it combines the traditional Indian bazaar experience with both Norman and Flemish architecture. (Note: Above the main entrance is a bas-relief frieze designed by Rudyard Kipling’s father.) Admire the colorful pyramids of heavenly mangoes (see box on “Bewitched by Alphonso,” above) and ripe bananas, but steer clear of the disturbing pet stalls. Clothing is one of Mumbai’s major exports, and at Fashion Street (Mahatma Gandhi Rd., across the road from Bombay Gymkhana), a motley collection of shops and stalls, you will pay a fraction of the prices asked in foreign stores. Much of what is here is surplus stock; other garments have been rejected by quality controllers. Start your haggling at under half the quoted price. Taxi drivers get nervous when you tell them you want to visit Zaveri Bazaar (Sheik Memon St.; Mon–Sat 11am–7pm). You’ll soon discover why. Shoppers and space-fillers shuffle and push their ways endlessly through narrow gaps in this cluttered, heaving market, and it’s often impossible to inch forward by car—or even on foot. Behind the street stalls and milling masses, glittering jewels are sold from family shops. If the glitzy accessories don’t fascinate you, perhaps you’ll be drawn to packed Mumbadevi Temple, where the city’s namesake deity is housed. Activity around the temple is chaotic, with devotees splurging to prove their devotion to the powerful goddess.

CRICKET Although hockey is India’s official national sport, cricket is by far the best-loved game, and even watching a group of schoolboys practicing in a field is an experience unto

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itself. Mumbaikars play the game with an enthusiasm that’s quite intoxicating— almost as if it provides some measure of relief from the hardships of daily life. In cricket-crazy India, the stars of the game are worshipped as keenly as film stars and gods, and Indian spectators at international games have the ability to transform even the blandest match into an exciting event. During the season (Oct–Mar), several matches are held each week at Wankhede Stadium (Churchgate), which is where Mumbai’s big national and international games are hosted. Tickets are sold by the Mumbai Cricket Association (& 022/ 2281-9910 or 022/2281-2714), but it’s worth asking your concierge to arrange good seats for you at a decent price (top-tier tickets can go for as much as $100 officially, and up to $300 on the black market). There’s no doubt that watching a cricket match in an Indian stadium with tens of thousands of fans is one of the more fascinating experiences to be had in India, but if crowds make you nervous, watch the World Cup, Sharjah Cup, or any major cricketing event live at a local bar or lounge, with a few dozen cricket-crazy Indians to provide the spectacle.

4 Where to Stay With greater supply than demand for rooms in Mumbai over the last few years, and the emergence of numerous five-star properties in the suburbs, rooms in downtown Mumbai can often be booked at good rates. Don’t always go by a hotel’s published tariff; ask about seasonal or daily discounts and cruise the Internet for bargains. It’s not uncommon to find ridiculously cheap deals for rooms in hotels like the Taj President, available even during the popular winter season. That said, budget travelers should be prepared to spend more on lodging in Mumbai than in any other city on the subcontinent; standards at the low end can be difficult to stomach, so you’re better off forking out a little more for a decent place to stay. Marine Drive is a great option if you want a prime view of the Arabian Sea, but it’s pricey. With a variety of options to suit every budget (top choice obviously being the Taj Mahal Hotel, reviewed below), Colaba-Fort is where most tourists end up. If you’re on a really tight budget, a cheap, decent option worth noting is Bentley’s Hotel (17 Oliver Rd., Colaba; & 022/2284-1474 or -1733; [emailprotected]), which has old, threadbare accommodations with enough character and antique furniture to make it livable. You can get a room with wooden floors, a balcony, and an attached bathroom for under Rs 1,385 ($32); be warned that at least several days’ advance reservation might be necessary. If you are literally overnighting and have no desire to spend time in Mumbai, a number of options are located close to the international airport, but no bargains here. A good compromise is Juhu, which has cheaper choices and a great nighttime atmosphere, and is only a 30-minute drive from the airport. Note: The prices below are sometimes given in rupees, with U.S. dollar conversions; others are stated in U.S. dollars only, which is how many hotels targeting foreign markets quote their rates.

MARINE DRIVE Within walking distance of the city’s commercial center, Marine Drive is a great place to base yourself, not least for the sea views and sense of space these provide—offering a relief from the hustling, bustling streets that lie east. Expect to pay for the privilege, however. If your budget can’t stretch to pay for the suggestions below, check out Sea Green Hotel (& 022/5633-6525 or 022/2282-2294; www.seagreenhotel.com) or

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the slightly better South Sea Green next door. The Sea Green is the best budget option on Marine Drive, where relatively large guest rooms with French doors (and flaking paint) open onto balconies overlooking Back Bay. It has a slightly seedy air, and furnishings are quite awful, but the attached shower-toilets are large and clean, and each room comes with TV, air-conditioning, and a minibar. You can bed down on your foam mattress for Rs 2,820 ($65) double. VERY EXPENSIVE Hotel Marine Plaza

Any address along Marine Drive is highly sought after, and the blue-mirrored glass facade of this self-styled “fashionably small” upmarket establishment is no exception, though it’s not in the same class as The Oberoi or InterContinental. Like the hotel, the marble lobby is small, its main stairway concealing a quaint lounge from which you can stare up at people swimming in the glass-bottom pool on the fifth floor. Most of the accommodations are suites, some of which are relatively well-priced but require neck-straining to get a look at the view; make sure to specify a room with a direct sea view. Besides swimming, the pool deck affords wonderful views over Back Bay and the entire Queen’s Necklace strip. Like many other upscale hotels in Mumbai, Marine Plaza gets busy at weekends, especially on weekend nights and at Sunday lunch, when the popular Bayview and Oriental Blossom restaurants are filled with locals, and the bar, Geoffrey’s, buzzes until 2am. 29 Marine Dr., Mumbai 400 020. & 022/2285-1212. Fax 022/2282-8585. www.sarovarparkplaza.com. hmp@hotel marineplaza.com. 68 units. $275 superior double; $300 executive suite, $400 deluxe suite, $575 special suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; pastry shop; bar; pool w/Jacuzzi; gym; business center; Wi-Fi enabled; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility, electronic safe.

When it comes to views, few contenders can match those of the new InterContinental, which opened in 2003. Designed with business travelers in mind, yet relatively intimate (only 59 rooms), the hotel spared no expense in ensuring you a good night’s sleep—there’s even a “Pillow and Quilt Menu”: Will it be a set of “air” pillows tonight or a mix of Korean and bamboo pillows? Satin or silk quilts? Beside the bed is your choice of oils for clarity of thought, stress relief, or peaceful sleep; in the bathroom are heavenly toiletries from Bvlgari. At a whopping 42 sq. m (450 sq. ft.), the rooms here must be largest in the city. (While all rooms offer some view of the sea, best are the “deluxe seafront.”) All rooms come with 42inch plasma TV and DVD player. Bathrooms are large, separated from the main room only by sliding doors (in the suite) or windows, creating a feeling of spaciousness. Although the in-house dining isn’t exceptional, the rooftop Dome bar (see “Hot Spots with Views,” below) is perfect for a romantic evening drink. Also pleasant is the lobby lounge with its leather sofas, where you can enjoy coffee, tea, and snacks; watch a humungous plasma TV; or peruse the interesting book collection. InterContinental Marine Drive

InterContinental Marine Dr., 135 Marine Dr., Mumbai 400 020. & 022/5639-9699. Fax 022/5639-9600. www. intercontinental.com. 59 units. $315 deluxe double, $350 deluxe bay-view double, $380 deluxe seafront double; $600 deluxe bay-view suite, $700 deluxe corner suite, $1,900–$2,300 presidential suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; health club; travel desk and car hire; tour guides, business center; currency exchange; 24-hr. room service; in-room massages and salon treatment; laundry and dry cleaning; DVD and CD library. In room: A/C, plasma TV, Wi-Fi, fax, DVD player, minibar, hair dryer, electronic safe, aromatherapy.

The Oberoi What do Bill Gates, Richard Gere, Michael Jackson, Rupert Murdoch, and the leaders or the heads of state of the United States, Russia, Greece, China, Indonesia, and Iceland have in common? Yes, they’ve all stayed at the best hotel

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on Marine Drive, and arguably the best in Mumbai. It’s particularly from a service point of view that The Oberoi wins hands-down; touches like a personal butler on each floor summoned by the touch of an “Ask Jeeves” button, and genuflecting staff members who go out of their way to make you feel revered, are always welcome. And the genteel atmosphere is a relief—tranquil, sophisticated, and relaxed, this is where you want to retreat after spending a few hours out on the street. You can head for the toprated Banyan Tree spa, or make a beeline for the azure pool where you can soak up the Mumbai sun next to a dramatic faux-rock waterfall. For those who can really splurge, choose the immaculate Kohinoor Suite, which covers 152 sq. m (1,634 sq. ft.) on a corner with smashing 270-degree views of Marine Drive and the bay. All accommodations are spacious, with tasteful decor, but the best rooms are the corner suites on each floor, which showcase Marine Drive almost as beautifully as the plush Kohinoor Suite but make a smaller dent in your wallet. If you can afford it, ask for the deluxe suite, which exudes pure luxury and comfort: In soothing pastel green and white hues, it offers a canopied four-poster bed, an eclectic collection on the bookshelf, a lavish bathroom with a lovely separate shower and tub, a telescope with which to survey the bay, and dramatic views of Queen’s Necklace—a dazzling pre-dinner spectacle. Note: If the rates at The Oberoi are a tad stiff for your budget, overnight instead in the adjoining Hilton Towers (owned and run by The Oberoi Hotels with a Hilton tie-in). No, a stay here is by no means as luxurious as what’s on offer at its more exclusive neighbor (and rooms are smaller), but this is still an excellent hotel, offering good value—plus you’ll have access to all the facilities next door. Rates vary daily and can be as low as $150 a night, including breakfast (www.hilton.com; & 022/56324343, in the U.S. dial 800/HILTONS). Nariman Point, Mumbai 400 021. & 022/5632-5757; reservations 022/5632-6887. Fax 022/5632-4142. www.oberoi hotels.com. 333 units. $355 superior city-facing double, $375 premium bay-view double, $425 deluxe ocean-view double; $805 executive ocean-view suite, $1,080 deluxe ocean-view suite, $1,500–$2,280 presidential suite. Airport transfers and breakfast included. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; an additional 3 restaurants and bar in adjoining Hilton Towers; pool; spa, salon, and health club; concierge; sightseeing, travel, and limousine service; business center; currency exchange; shopping arcade; bookshop; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning; doctor-on-call; floor butler. In room: A/C, TV, fax machine, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, electronic safe, scale. Sea-facing rooms and suites have DVD players; suites and deluxe rooms include CD players.

EXPENSIVE Ambassador

Capped by the city’s only revolving restaurant, this kitsch 1940s hotel welcomes you with a baroque-inspired marble lobby adorned with cheap cherub statues, giant decorative vases, and an eclectic, extravagant mix of furniture, all under a gold-painted molded ceiling dripping with chandeliers. If you want a sea view (and that’s why you’re on the Drive), opt for one of the “superior” guest rooms: Clean, neat, and functional, these occupy the second, third, and fourth floors; carpeted passages are decorated with Mughlai miniatures and the theme is red and white. The slightly cheaper “executive” rooms on the upper floors include some units with partial sea views: Ask for room no. 8, 9, or 10. On the plus side, executive rooms are reasonably sized and have a slightly less overwhelming white, cream, and blue decor; roomy white-and-gray marble bathrooms feature large tubs. Apart from the enthusiastic turbaned doorman and the dedicated restaurant staff, service here is unexceptional, with some irritating heel-dragging that’s particularly evident behind the crowded reception counter.

Veer Nariman Rd., off Marine Dr., Churchgate 400 020. & 022/2204-1131. Fax 022/2204-0004. www.ambassador india.com. 110 units. $150 executive double, $170 superior double, $225 premier double; $475 suite. $25 extra bed. No charge for children under 12 sharing parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; travel assistance

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and car hires; business center; currency exchange; florist; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning; doctor-oncall. In room: A/C, TV, bedside console, minibar, hair dryer on request, electronic safe.

INEXPENSIVE Chateau Windsor Hotel

With clean, very basic rooms on the second, fourth, Value and fifth floors of an apartment block, this “hotel” is approached via an ancient elevator that may have you panicking before check-in. Don’t. It may be unspectacular but it’s cheap—perhaps the best accommodations in its price bracket—and you get to hang out with real Mumbaikars. Do specify that you want an air-conditioned room with attached bathroom; these units have small balconies, stone tile floors, and foam mattresses with clean white sheets and towels. The simple furnishings include an armless “sofa,” a linoleum-topped table, and a small, narrow cupboard. Management is generally helpful. Although there is no restaurant, you can sit in the terrace garden and nosh, or get room service; you’ll have few reasons to do this, however, given the neighborhood’s large number of excellent restaurants. The kitchen is also available for you to do your own cooking—as long as it’s vegetarian.

86 Veer Nariman Rd., Churchgate, Mumbai 400 020. & 022/2204-4455. Fax 022/2202-6459. www.chateauwindsor. com. [emailprotected]. 55 units. Rs 1,590 ($35) small non-A/C double, Rs 1,890 ($43) standard non-A/C double, Rs 2,190 ($51) standard A/C double. Rs 300 ($6.85) extra person; Rs 150 ($3.40) children ages 3–12 sharing parent’s room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Travel assistance; free Internet access in lobby; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in some).

COLABA With the city’s densest concentration of sights, hotels, and restaurants (of which the best are reviewed below), Colaba is an ideal location. The Taj Mahal is here, as is the excellent-value Gordon House, a personal favorite. VERY EXPENSIVE The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower

George Bernard Shaw famously claimed that after staying here, he no longer had any need to visit the original Taj Mahal in Agra. But seriously stiff competition from the nearby Oberoi and InterContinental (and even from so-called “suburban” hotels like the JW Marriott, Hyatt Regency, Grand Hyatt, and ITC Maratha Sheraton) has The Taj in the process of reinventing itself to keep its crown as the most celebrated address in Mumbai. As such, it is launching the brand-new Jiva spa and a number of new restaurants and watering holes (see “Top Attractions: Downtown,” earlier in this chapter). Then again, the history here is tangible: Public areas are decorated with carefully chosen antiques and vintage artwork. Bombay’s very first licensed drinking establishment, Harbour Bar, can be found here, as can the still trendy Insomnia nightclub (now open to all). If you do opt for The Taj Mahal Palace, you’ll want to wallow in the luxurious old-world splendor of the Heritage Wing; individually themed high-ceilinged suites transport you to another era, when the likes of Somerset Maugham and Duke Ellington bedded down in the city’s best hotel. For a view of the Gateway, book a Taj Club sea-view or luxury sea-view room, but if money is no object, nothing less than the Rajput Suite will do. As the crowning glory of one of India’s most prominent hotel chains, The Taj Mahal Palace may well double as the nerve center for moneyed mischief, but it remains a great blend of old-world charm and modern conveniences. That said, its reputation for service has in recent years been less than stellar, something we hope will be addressed along with the physical revamping of the hotel. Note that the hotel’s looming Tower Wing is more business-oriented, and a bit of a letdown once you’ve explored the original parts of the hotel.

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Hot Spots with Views With the waters of the Arabian Sea lapping the entire length of the city on both its eastern and western flanks, Mumbai enjoys a fabulous seaside location, yet the city has relatively few nightspots with views worth mentioning. Most can be found in five-star establishments. With the dark blue horizon just beyond the terrace’s glass railing and a star-studded sky above, Dome (& 022/5639-9600; reservations recommended on weekends), on the rooftop of the InterContinental Marine Drive, commands the best vista. Sink into the inviting off-white sofas and overstuffed armchairs that surround scented candles and order a Caipiroska or a Mohito, or even a Long Island Iced Tea. Give the food a pass, although you may want to sample the mango gelato with champagne. Farther along Marine Drive at the Hotel Marine Plaza, Bayview (& 022/2285-1212) is a 24-hour restaurant. Its drinks and buffets (Rs 250–Rs 450/$5.70–$10) are great value for money; avoid weekends when the place is packed with noisy families. Alternatively, get right on the beach and grab a hammock at Salt Water Grill (see full review later in this chapter) on Chowpatty (H2O Water Sports Complex; & 022/2368-5459). Drink in lovely views of the Arabian Sea along with heady cocktails. For an elegant evening, Pearl of the Orient (& 022/2204-1131), the revolving restaurant atop the Ambassador Hotel, offers more lovely views of Mumbai and good service; the food is fairly satisfying and includes Korean barbecue, inauthentic Japanese, and a sprinkling of Thai and Chinese dishes. On the opposite shore of Mumbai’s southern tip, overlooking the harbor, you’ll find another set of views, quite different but every bit as remarkable. For a refined setting with a splendid view of the Gateway, make your way

Apollo Bunder, Mumbai 400 001. & 022/5665-3366. Fax 022/5665-0300. www.tajhotels.com. mahal.mumbai@taj hotels.com. 565 units.Tower Wing doubles: $275 superior city-view, $295 superior sea-view, $315 deluxe city-view, $335 deluxe sea-view. Heritage Wing doubles: $355 luxury city/pool-view, $370 luxury sea-view, $375 luxury grande city/pool view, $405 luxury grande sea-view, $435 Taj Club city/pool view, $465 Taj Club sea-view. Heritage suites: $600 junior, $800 executive, $1,200 luxury, $1,600 grand luxury, $2,300 presidential. (Taj Club and suites include limousine airport transfer, club floor check-in, breakfast, personal valet, buffet breakfast, high tea, business services, and cocktail hour.) AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; pastry shop; 3 bars; nightclub; swimming pool; sports arrangements on request (golf, badminton, squash, billiards, tennis, table tennis); fitness center; concierge; travel desk; car hire; business center; currency exchange; shopping arcade; salon; wireless newspaper service; babysitting; laundry; doctor-on-call; valet service; personal valet service for Grand Luxe and Presidential Suite guests. In room: A/C, TV (plasma in some), fax machine on request, DVD player, MP3 stereo, 2-line speaker phones, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, electronic safe. Suites have inbuilt personal spa.

EXPENSIVE Taj President

It may not be the most beautiful or luxurious hotel in Mumbai, but this classy business property offers ultra-efficient service, excellent restaurants, and a convenient location in a smart neighborhood not too far from the maelstrom of busy Colaba. Shades of purple combine with marble, wood, and metal, and are playfully offset by elegant bonsai trees in a brand-new lobby that pays homage to the 1970s. Standard rooms are decently sized, with solid wooden furniture, brown-red carpets,

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to the Harbour Bar in the Taj, where martinis, champagne, and cigars are the order of the day. Also in the Taj is Souk (& 022/5665-3366), the rooftop restaurant that pretentiously calls its food “Eastern Mediterranean”; the cuisine it serves is generally known elsewhere as Middle Eastern or West Asian. Best is the mezze buffet offering the usual suspects (hummus, salads, baba ganoush, tabbouleh, falafel, and assorted olives), as well as three interesting meat- or seafood-based salads, all accompanied by delicious, hot pita breads. Souk’s location is great, but the tables near the window are placed in such a way that only one person at a table for two gets the harbor view. Go figure. If you bag a window table at Sea Lounge (& 022/ 5665-3366), the Taj’s renowned coffee shop, you can watch the boats float by while demanding more Earl Grey. Although you don’t have to be a guest in the hotel to enjoy any of these Taj options, do note that your manner of dress (and perceived status) has a direct effect on how well you are treated. Moving north of the city, you can take a break at Vista, the cafe at the Taj Land’s End in Bandra; or at Ming Yang, the hotel’s Szechuan Chinese eatery. Both afford diners fine views of the Arabian Sea and the Portuguese fort, if you can snag a table near the window (both & 022/5668-1234). Farther north near Juhu Beach is a personal favorite, the low-key, reasonably priced seaside-veranda restaurant at Citizen Hotel (& 022/5693-2525), which serves formulaic Indian and Continental fare in a tranquil setting that provides one of the best unobstructed views of the sea. An air-conditioned, glass-walled section also has good views.

and an emphasis on paisley fabrics. It’s worth paying a little extra for a room on the Executive Floor, which has received an ultra-contemporary makeover by one of Bombay’s leading designers; pale tones and modern works of art combine to make this, the 17th floor, quite different from the other, old-fashioned floors. 90 Cuffe Parade, Mumbai 400 005, Maharashtra. & 022/5665-0808. Fax 022/5665-0303. www.tajhotels.com. [emailprotected]. 300 units. $220 standard city-facing double, $230 standard sea-facing double, $240 executive double; $300 executive suite. $20 extra bed. Executive rooms and suites include breakfast. Ask about daily discounts. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; pastry shop; bar; pool; fitness center (gym, steam, massage); concierge; travel desk; car hires; business center; currency exchange; shops; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; safe deposit lockers; doctor-on-call; Wi-Fi enabled. In room: A/C, TV (satellite), dataport, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, scale. Fax machines in executive rooms and suites.

M O D E R AT E The Gordon House Hotel

Set among a rash of rather ordinary old-fashValue ioned hotels, Colaba’s sexiest lodging option and Mumbai’s only boutique-style hotel is perfect for those raring to have a good time. Originally owned by Arthur Gordon, an early-20th-century trader who made his fortune in Bombay, and now the pride of Sanjay Narang, one of Mumbai’s most high-profile restaurateurs, this trendy pad with its toothpaste-white interiors comes as a breath of fresh air, as does the slick, attentive service that starts with the super-fast check-in. There are three themed guest room

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floors: The Scandinavian level offers smart, contemporary rooms with parquet floors and sleek Ikea-style furniture, timber blinds, and large Euro-themed black-and-white photographs. Mediterranean rooms are equally charming, with bright blues and yellows, tiled floors, cane chairs, John Miller posters, and cool aqua-toned bathrooms. Rooms on the feminine Country Floor are strictly floral, patchwork, and pastel fans. Accommodations are small but well proportioned, with comfortable beds and extras like a stereo system with VCD (video compact disc, a media format popular in Asia that never really caught on in the West) and CD player so you can rent a movie or request complimentary music from the hotel’s library. A selection of magazines, bowls of sweets, designer toiletries, free Internet access, and complimentary ironing are more thoughtful touches. The bathrooms may be tiny, but they offer great walk-in showers. Opulent and over the top, the one and only suite has been themed on the Sun King’s palace at Versailles, complete with crystal chandeliers and lavish gilded furniture (and available at the price you’d pay for a regular room elsewhere). All Stir Fry, the pleasant do-it-yourself Asian restaurant, is quite good, but look for a new rooftop restaurant (serving Hyderabadi cuisine) to open in early 2006. Sadly, the place has one drawback: The nonstop thumping from the in-house nightclub Polly Esther’s, which particularly affects rooms on the second floor. 5 Battery St., Apollo Bunder, Colaba, Mumbai 400 039. & 022/2287-1122. Fax 022/2287-2026. www.ghhotel.com. [emailprotected]. 29 units. Rs 6,000 ($137) double; Rs 10,000 ($230) Versailles Suite. Tariff includes American breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; nightclub; health club privileges; exercise equipment; concierge; travel, transport, and sightseeing arrangements; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning; complimentary ironing; doctor-on-call; express check-out. In room: A/C, TV, CD and VCD player (CDs on request); bedside console, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility, hair dryer, iron and ironing board on request, electronic safe.

INEXPENSIVE Hotel Godwin The facade of this nine-story budget hotel harks back to the 1930s

and suggests a faded grandeur that is sadly not realized in most of the rooms. Because the range of accommodations varies a lot here, you should specifically request a centrally air-conditioned deluxe room that has been refurbished. Also insist that it’s one of the eighth-floor units blessed with a view (distant as it is) of the Taj Mahal Hotel. Note: Guest rooms at the Godwin’s sister establishment, the Garden Hotel (& 022/ 2284-1476; [emailprotected]), immediately next door, are slightly cheaper but are cluttered and a bit grubby. Jasmine Building, 41 Garden Rd., Colaba, Mumbai 400 039. & 022/2287-2050. Fax 022/2287-1592. godwinht@ vsnl.in. 52 units. Rs 2,750 ($63) standard double, Rs 2,850 ($66) deluxe double; Rs 2,950 ($68) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; currency exchange; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility on request, hair dryer on request.

A friendly doorman sporting an elaborate moustache welcomes you politely to this small, rather nondescript hotel not far from the Gateway of India. Despite the side-street location and total absence of views, a full upgrade in 2001 rendered it bright and spotless, with renewed focus on service (such as 24-hr. room service—always useful). Accommodations are on the small side, and there are no bedside lamps, but the Suba will suit the traveler looking for a reasonably smart option (as opposed to character-filled, like Shelleys) that offers good value.

Hotel Suba Palace

Near Gateway of India, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai 400 039. & 022/2202-0636 or 022/22885444. Fax 022/22020812. www.hotelsubapalace.com. [emailprotected]. 51 units. Rs 2,844 ($65) double, breakfast included. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; travel assistance; foreign exchange; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

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Ignore the gruff bloke at reception; for this type of money you Value won’t find a better location (on the waterfront and near the Gateway) with the same degree of comfort, a fact that makes up for the lack of facilities. Shelleys has, for instance, no restaurant, but there is no shortage of options in the neighborhood. Try to book one of the six sea-facing rooms (preferably one of the two with tile floors, which look fresher); each features blue or green bedcovers and color-coordinated drapes over shallow bay windows, large dark wood cupboards, a desk, and—inexplicably—a big, fake orange-painted “oak” tree. The large, clean bathrooms have tubs and natural light, and there’s even small dressing areas. Public sea-facing terraces with deep, black leatherette sofas catch the sea breeze and afford lovely views. Budget rates mean putting up with wall-attached air-conditioning units and ancient elevators, but many find the old-fashioned ambience very agreeable.

Shelleys

30 P.J. Ramchandani Marg (opposite Radio Club), Colaba, Mumbai 400 039. & 022/2284-0229 or 022/2284-0270. Fax 022/2284-0385. www.shelleyshotel.com. [emailprotected]. 17 units. Rs 1,935 ($44) sea-facing double, Rs 1,622 ($40) non-sea-facing double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Tea-cum-waiting room; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

JUHU & BANDRA A 60- to 90-minute drive from the heavily touristed downtown area, the seaside suburb of Juhu attracts a predominantly local, moneyed crowd, and as such affords in many ways a truly genuine introduction to Mumbai. Juhu’s relative proximity to the airport (it’s a 30-min. drive) makes it the ideal stopover if you have no strong desire to engage with the historical side of the city, or if you need to recover from jet lag before moving on, but aren’t keen to fork over the exorbitant rates demanded by the airport hotels. VERY EXPENSIVE JW Marriott Hotel

Designed by the renowned architect Bill Bensley, the opulent JW is Juhu’s most luxurious hotel and top choice if you choose a hotel by the quality of its in-house dining. Lotus Café, the sprawling 24-hour coffee shop at the bottom of the split-level lobby, is a popular hangout with the local trendy crowd, who enjoy its consistently good daily buffets; at Mezzo Mezzo, friendly chef Sebastiano Mastrangelo serves light, healthy dishes using locally available ingredients (which for Mumbai means an emphasis on seafood); and BBC (Bombay Baking Company) is quite simply the city’s best bakery. Set over five floors, the guest rooms are comfortable, with modern, albeit rather predictable, decor and amenities; each has some kind of sea view, though most are side views. The best aspect of the hotel, aside from its dining, is the expansive tropical seaside garden, with torch-lit pathways, a lotus pond, and Indian sandstone sculptures crafted by artisans from Rajasthan. It’s also got two wonderful pools, as well as a well-equipped fitness center and spa—definitely required after all the extra calories you’re likely to consume at BBC while staying here. Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu Beach, Mumbai 400 099. & 022/5693-3000. Fax 022/5693-3100. 358 units. $300 superior double, $340 executive double, $360 executive deluxe double; $600–$750 suite. All rates except superior double include breakfast and transfers. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bakery and cafe; 2 bars; nightclub; 2 pools; kids’ pool; fitness center/spa; personal trainer; game room and video games; concierge; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; babysitting w/advance notice; laundry and dry cleaning; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, Web TV, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility, hair dryer, iron and ironing board, electronic safe.

EXPENSIVE Holiday Inn Until the JW opened, this rather anonymous hotel was Juhu’s best, no

doubt because of its beachfront location and extensive facilities. The superior deluxe rooms feature pale-blue partially wallpapered walls and granite floors covered with carpets

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that match the curtains; beds are comfortable, if a little low. Costing just 10 euros more (and worth it) are the more spacious Club Select rooms on the sixth and seventh floors; these have a breezier feel, with bright blue carpets and bedcovers in pink, beige, and blue—guests here also have access to an exclusive lounge. Direct sea views are only available from the suites. Balraj Sahani Marg, Juhu Beach, Mumbai 400 049. & 022/5693-4444. Fax 022/5693-4455 or -4466. www.holiday innbombay.com. [emailprotected]. 191 units. 150€ ($186) standard double, 170€ ($210) superior deluxe double; 180€ ($224) Club Select, 300€ ($373) special suite, 350€ ($435) deluxe suite, 400€ ($497) superior deluxe suite, 550€ ($683) presidential suite. Rates include breakfast and airport transfers. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; pub; pool; health club; travel agency; car hires; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, bedside panel, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility, hair dryer, safe, scale. Suites include stereo system and kitchenette w/microwave and fridge.

Location, location, location! It may be away from the central tourist area of Colaba, but this hotel enjoys a lovely seaside setting in one of Mumbai’s hippest suburbs. It originally opened in 1999 as the Regent, but in 2002 the Taj Group took it over and refurbished it, turning it into one of the city’s finest hotels, with each and every guest room affording views of the Arabian Sea through palm trees. The lobby is done up in earth tones and has potted plants, huge metal pots, and sculptures of horses; the atrium, with its grand piano, hosts live music every evening. Plush and slightly over the top, the carpeted guest rooms feature wonderful, solid, king-size mattresses covered in soft, cool white linen. Pale pink or darker maroon walls are decorated with contemporary prints and watercolors, and the rooms feature quality embroidered fabrics and plenty of wood—only the slightly ruddy carpets could do with a makeover. If you don’t mind shelling out the extra $85, get a Taj Club room on the 21st floor, which has wonderful wood floors, a personal butler, express checkin and -out, and a separate lounge area with complimentary French wine and exotic dry fruits. (Ask about special promotions and rates, which the hotel has been using to entice new visitors.)

Taj Lands End

Land’s End, Bandstand, Bandra (West), Mumbai 400 050. & 022/5668-1234. Fax 022/5699-4488. www.tajhotels. com. [emailprotected]. 508 units. $305 superior double, $325 deluxe double, $355 luxury double; $390 Taj Club, $450 executive suite, $600 luxury suite, $1,000 grand luxury suite, $1,500 presidential suite. Taj Club rooms have complimentary breakfast, cocktail hour, high tea. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; pool; spa; fitness center; concierge; travel desk; car hires; business center; currency exchange; bookshop; salon; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning; doctor-on-call; butler on call; luxury and club lounge floors; Wi-Fi enabled. In room: A/C, TV, electronic bedside console, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, tea- and coffee-making facilities, electronic safe, scale, magnifying shaving mirror. Taj Club rooms have plasma TV.

M O D E R AT E Sun-n-Sand

This small, old-fashioned beachfront hotel was getting a muchneeded overhaul at press time; however, the revamp includes an attempt to conserve water (making bathtubs now available only in the suites). Specify a sea-facing standard double room: Breakfast, cocktail hour, and airport transfers are included in the rate. Rooms have flatscreen TVs, and the hotel is Wi-Fi enabled. The luxury suites are done in various themes—“Suko Thai” has wooden floors, Thai rocking chair, figurines, lamps, flower-painted columns, and a pleasant circular seating area, while Galleria is apparently inspired by a contemporary art gallery, with mod lights, curved wall paneling, and a Jacuzzi bath and exercise area—but for the same rate you might as well be at the JW Marriott, which has infinitely better service and amenities. Service borders on the adequate, with staff a little too lethargic; this doesn’t seem to matter much to yesteryear Bollywood stars frequenting the bar.

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39 Juhu Beach, Mumbai 400 049. & 022/5693-8888. Fax 022/2620-2170. www.sunnsandhotel.com. reservations@ sunnsandhotel.com. 120 units. $190 superior double, $ 210 superior sea-facing double, $230 executive double, $250 deluxe double; $300–$450 suite. Rates include buffet breakfast, airport transfers, and cocktail hours. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; pool; health and fitness center; massage; Jacuzzi; travel desk; business center; shops; salon; babysitting; laundry; doctor on call; Wi-Fi enabled. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility (in suites), hair dryer, electronic safe.

NEAR THE AIRPORT The reasons for staying here are obvious, but with the exception of the Hyatt, it seems a pity to stay in these cocoons when The Taj Mahal and Oberoi beckon from Colaba. Note that cheaper airport options are less than salubrious. An airport choice you may come across, but one that’s not in the same league as those described below, is the Leela (& 022/5691-1234; fax 022/5691-1212; www.theleela.com; [emailprotected]). A stalwart of Mumbai’s hospitality industry (and favored by the Dalai Lama), the Leela has considerably lowered its rates since the competition heated up in the form of several new hotels ($265–$675 double; ask for daily discounts). Relative to new competitors like the Hyatt Regency, the Leela appears rather old-fashioned. Still, it’s a good hotel, and you may want to check it out. Hyatt Regency With all the dramatic design-intensive joie de vivre of Value a modern art gallery, this is the latest newcomer to vie for the tourist and businessman’s buck, and we think it wins hands-down (especially if you can get a room at a particularly low rate—these change daily, so call or check out the online rates). Stacked glass walls, brilliant mood lighting, floating ebony ceiling effects, and Italian marble are offset by marigolds in tailored cube bouquets—and that’s just the lobby. Sleek and stylish, guest rooms deliver great comfort. The ultra-contemporary designconscious accommodations ignore typical hotel-room configurations, the dramatic interiors enhanced by the judicious use of space, imaginative lighting concepts, and elegant fittings. One entire wall is a mirror, floors are Malaysian teakwood, desks are swivel-top slabs of glass, and the televisions are flatscreen. White-marble bathrooms offer a choice between large rain showers or separate step-down bathtubs—a welcome treat after a long plane journey or a day in Mumbai. The Club Prana spa is a popular pre- and post-flight venue; while Stax, the newly revamped Coastal Italian restaurant, is a classy dining option if you’re ever in the vicinity of the airport. Sahar Airport Rd., Mumbai 400 099. & 022/5696-1234. Fax 022/5696-1235. www.hyatt.com. 397 units. Rates on day-to-day basis. $212 standard double; $240 Regency Club. Rates include breakfast and airport transfers. Club rate includes use of private lounge, dedicated concierge, complimentary use of meeting room, all-day tea and coffee service, and evening cocktails and canapés. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; pool; lighted tennis and squash courts; spa and fitness center; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, teaand coffee-making facility, electronic safe.

Since its opening in 2001, the Grand Maratha has already been recognized with at least one award as the country’s best hotel. An imposing pink-sandstone neoclassical building topped by a futuristic dome, the Sheraton recalls elements of India’s rich architectural legacy: thick columns, imposing contours, arches, a cobbled entrance flanked by two wooden horses and, in the porte-cochere, a Goan-inspired coffered ceiling. Rooms don’t disappoint: Beds are fabulously comfy, London-based interior designer Francesca Basu has captured the local love of bright colors, and the garden views in some rooms (ask for one) are lovely. The six different restaurants, all of excellent quality, are reason enough to stay here: Both Dakshin, offering the cuisines of South India; and Dum

ITC Hotel Grand Maratha Sheraton & Towers

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Pukht, its specialties inherited from the Nawabs of Awadh, are good places to go, particularly if you haven’t had (or won’t have) a chance to sample these cuisines elsewhere in India. Sahar, Mumbai 400 099. & 022/2830-3030. Delhi reservations: & 011/2614-1821. Fax 022/2830-3131. www.welcom group.com. 386 units. $350 Executive Club double, $400 Sheraton Towers double, $425 ITC One double. Daily discounts available. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 6 restaurants; bar; pool; golf by arrangement; wellness center w/gym, steam, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage and spa treatments; concierge; travel and tour desk; car hires; business center; currency exchange; shops and boutiques; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry and valet service; doctor-oncall. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility, hair dryer, electronic safe, scale. Sheraton Towers rooms include butler service. ITC One rooms include step machine, hand-held massager, massage chair, fax machine.

Wrapped in wall-to-wall marble and dripping with chandeliers, the small lobby of this lavish baroque-style hotel sports a winter garden off the atrium balconies and a wood-paneled cigar-and-brandy bar near the lobby; at night live jazz replaces the daytime piped harpsichord-inspired Western classical music and keeps the lobby abuzz. Ask for a corner room—these are larger. If it’s views you’re after, ask for a room on the first, second, or third floor. Royal Club rooms have wooden floors and include playfully eccentric touches like plastic ducks in the bathrooms and teddy bears on the canopied king-size poster beds; dark wooden chests with inlaid metalwork, beautiful glassware bedside lamps, and wall prints and photos reflecting local history create a strong sense of luxury. Standard rooms are less spacious but no less luxurious. Unfortunately, the in-house dining, particularly the at 24-hour La Brasserie, is rather disappointing, and all in all is a pricey option.

Le Royal Meridien

Sahar Airport Rd. & 022/2838-0000. Fax 022/2838-0101. www.mumbai.lemeridien.com. [emailprotected]. 171 units. Doubles include airport pickup. $315 standard double, $325 deluxe double; $360 Royal Club (includes airport drop and other club perks), $500 suite, minimum $500 (rate on request) presidential suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; health club w/steam, sauna, and massage; business center; salon; doctor-on-call; library; florist; Wi-Fi enabled. In room: A/C, TV, fax machine, DVD player, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility, electronic safe.

The Orchid In a city this polluted, a stay at this multiple-award-winning ecofriendly hotel at least serves to relieve some tourist guilt. But that’s not the only reason to stay here: Thankfully, the hotel’s commitment to preserving the environment is combined with reasonably good taste and impressive service. Environment-friendly considerations include solar-powered terrace lights, wastewater treatment technology, in-room recycle bins, and a UV-treated chlorine-free swimming pool. You’ll find plants in all the rooms (which are comfortable) and understated furniture made from Nuwud Medium Density Fibre “wood,” the eco-conscious alternative to ripping down entire forests. Emphasizing the eco-theme, paintings and prints of orchids and flowers are found throughout the hotel, and the lobby features a six-story water curtain— recycled water, of course. The rooftop pool with its Mexican hacienda–style barbecue restaurant offers interesting views—particularly if you enjoy watching Mumbai’s heavy air traffic come and go. Adjacent Domestic Airport, Nehru Rd., Vile Parle (East), Mumbai 400 099. & 022/2616-4040. Toll-free 1-600-225432. Fax 022/2616-4141. www.orchidhotel.com. [emailprotected]. 245 units. $270 deluxe double; $285 executive suite, $310 Club Privé room, $325 Club Privé suite, $435 Orchid suite, $800 presidential suite. $40 extra bed. Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; pool; fitness center; travel desk; airport transfers; business center; foreign exchange; gourmet shop; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning; Wi-Fi enabled. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, iron, scale, magnifying shaving mirror.

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5 Where to Dine Nowhere in India is dining more rewarding than in Mumbai. The city literally holds thousands of restaurants, and being a city of migrants, every kind of Indian cuisine is represented—though Konkan, or coastal food, is considered the local specialty. You can mingle with the city’s crème de la crème at fine-dining or hip venues, or choose from a vast array of inexpensive eating places. Restaurants serving South Indian fast food (also called Udipi restaurants) can be found on every street, but if you sample only one, make it either Madras Café (& 022/2401-4419; Tues–Sun) in Matunga or A. Ramanayak Udipi Shri Krishna Boarding (Main Market Building, 1st floor, near Matunga Railway Station; & 022/2414-2422). The latter’s authentic Madras-style meal is served on a banana leaf (Rs 60/$1.35), and you eat with your hands. Other Indian cuisines you will come across everywhere are neighborhood kebab places (Noorani ; Haji Ali; & 022/2494-4753 or -3054, serves good kebabs and will even deliver to your South Mumbai hotel); restaurants specializing in local favorites like pau bhaji (mixed vegetables and bread); Irani restaurants serving fresh inexpensive breads and pastries; and Chinese restaurants offering “Indianized Chinese.” Not surprisingly, vegetarians are particularly well catered for, even in specialty seafood restaurants.

Seafood Thrillers Anyone with a penchant for seafood will love dining in Mumbai—whether it’s Coastal, Konkani, Manglorean, or Malvani cuisine, you are in for a treat. Besides Mahesh Lunch Home and Trishna (see reviews below), you can try Apoorva (Brelvi Marg, near Horniman Circle; & 022/2287-0335 or 022/22881457), which has similar Manglorean fare, as does Excellensea (Mint Rd., near RBI; & 022/2261-8991). The latter is on the first floor above Bharat Restaurant , a non-air-conditioned economy version of Excellensea serving the same food. Note that if you are in a Konkan restaurant, you may want to try the soul kadi, a slightly pungent coconut milk drink and a great appetizer. Also sample fresh appams and neer dosas—both these Southern breads make excellent accompaniments to your seafood. Closer to central Mumbai is Pisces (& 022/2380-5886 or -4367), done up in the standard fish-themed decor but offering more variety in cooking styles. You haven’t lived until you’ve tried the tamarind prawns (not on the menu; they can be requested)—these alone are worth the trip. Also try the malai chingri (a cashew nut–based coconut curry with prawns). Manohar Shetty, the owner of Pisces, believes patrons should know exactly what they are getting, so the uncooked fish, prawns, and crab are paraded before you before they are transformed into one of these delectable dishes. In the suburbs in Bandra, you’ll get real value for money and atmosphere at Soul Fry (& 022/2604-689), which makes great flaky stuffed grilled rawas (a local fish). Monday is karaoke night, and even if you can’t sing to save your life, it’s a great experience to watch extremely talented locals unabashedly take the mic and have the whole place rocking till at least 2am. Soul Fry is an extremely lively and friendly restaurant. On weekends, live music often accompanies the home-style Goan dishes.

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Tip: Bear in mind that Mumbaikars usually venture out to eat late, around 9pm, so if you’re intent on eating at a popular fine-dining restaurant and don’t have a reservation, ask if you can arrive at 7:30pm.

COLABA (INCLUDING MARINE DR.) & FORT EXPENSIVE Henry Tham

CHINESE Dining at this exclusive eatery makes you feel like royalty, beginning with the red velvet throne-like chairs that extend several feet behind your head. Sleek black tables dip gently in the center and counterpoint the straight, modern lines of this chic restaurant, reflected in a larger-than-life mirror on the wall. Take your pick from three seven-course set menus: Emperor, Empress, or Princess (vegetarian), which change periodically. First to be delivered is dim sum (small bites), each with matching sauce. Next up is Silken Pillow Talk, superb miso soup with seaweed and squares of tofu. Then, if you ordered the Emperor set menu, you’ll be served delicately steamed grouper (aubergine for the vegetarian option) with a hint of scallion, followed by shredded lamb that’s been slow-cooked to perfection and topped with garlic cream, served in a martini glass. King prawn comes next, or grilled zucchini and broccoli florets, the latter with a strong wasabi mayonnaise. By the time the main course (unagi, tenderloin, or chicken, infused in Chinese rice wine, or the vegetarian counterpart of mixed mushrooms, sautéed snowpeas, and broccoli) arrives, you’ll probably be sated, which is just as well— the finale, the fruit-based “tree of life,” deserves full marks for presentation but is something of a letdown. Overall, this is a classy affair—perfect for a celebration dinner or a special treat. Note that the restaurant offers an a la carte menu (though it’s not what Henry Tham is famous for) and a separate (much cheaper) lunchtime set menu.

Dhanraj Mahal, Apollo Bunder. & 022/2202-3186. Reservations essential. Dinner set menus Rs 925–Rs 1,625 ($21–$37); lunch set menus Rs 485–Rs 810 ($11–$19); a la carte main courses Rs 315–Rs 810 ($7–$19). AE, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30pm–midnight.

India Jones SOUTHEAST ASIAN The menu, in the form of an old traveler’s map and diary, is a treasure trove of exciting Asian dishes. Start by sharing an appetizer platter—among the superb array are fried prawns in egg noodles, chicken/ shrimp siu mai, satay chicken, and cucumber salad with lime, mint, and basil, served with a selection of dips. Or two of you can share the platter of spring rolls from across Southeast Asia: Vietnamese rice-paper rolls, fried rice-paper rolls with crab, deep-fried mango and prawn rolls, bean-curd and chicken rolls—you name it, they roll it. But the hands-down favorite, certainly with locals who want to sample as much as possible of the extensive menu, is the “India Jones Grand Platter”: an appetizer assortment; soup (tom yam or tom kha); and a platter of green chicken curry, wok-fried prawns, stir-fried sea bass with celery, barbecued pork with honey, wok-fried mixed vegetables in black-peppercorn sauce—and the list goes on. At Rs 2,700 ($62) for two, it’s pricey, but it’s a feast that will leave you bursting. For the not-so-ravenous, there’s plenty more: the Wok Platter (also highly recommended), live seafood (try the grouper in soy-ginger broth), a separate dim sum menu, a teppanyaki counter—controlled by chef Sam Wong—and outstanding sushi, which is not even on the menu but is ordered all around. As expected of any Oberoi restaurant, the service and decor are exemplary. HiIton Towers, Nariman Point. & 022/5632-4343. Main courses Rs 195–Rs 1,200 ($4.50–$25); platters Rs 395–Rs 1,350 ($9–$31) per head. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–11:45pm.

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Indigo INTERNATIONAL Well-known restaurateur-chef Rahul Akerkar has created a restaurant that tops every food critic’s A-list and has been listed by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the 60 best restaurants in the world. Credit for the tasteful understated elegance of this bi-level restaurant goes to co-owner Malini Akerkar; we recommend you sit upstairs in the open-air terrace section with its frangipani trees. Indigo’s chic ambience is enhanced by the clientele: By 9:30pm the entire bar section is heaving with the city’s Beautiful People. The international/fusion menu is not extensive, changing once a year, but specials are on offer, with something for every appetite. Start with the flavorful beet and coconut soup; or the herbed goat cheese, spinach, and grilled apples, drizzled with walnut vinaigrette. The lobster risotto is perfect, as is the seared tuna loin rubbed with cracked mustard seeds and served with sesame bok choy, oyster mushrooms, and a roast tomato drizzle. Also recommended is the chargrilled beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola, served with black-eyed-pea ragout, asparagus tips, and a tandoor-roasted onion. The Camembert soufflé was a bit too eggy for our taste. End the meal with the unique chocolate fondant with jalapeño peppers or the out-of this-world cappuccino soufflé (not always on the menu, but ask for it anyway), made by pastry chef Suresh Kumar. 4 Mandlik House, Colaba, Mumbai 400 001. & 022/5636-8999 or 022/2202-3592. Reservations essential. Main courses Rs 325–Rs 735 ($7–$17). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11:45pm.

Kandahar NORTHWEST FRONTIER This classy, well-appointed restaurant, also located in The Oberoi, is a great place to sample the traditionally rich cuisine of the Northwest Frontier as well as lighter, home-style dishes. Kebabs are a specialty here, and the robust Kabuli raan (soft, fragrant, and utterly delicious, prepared a day in advance to enable the meat to stew in its own juices and assorted spices) in particular has long been hailed the best in the city. Home-style dishes include dahiwali bhindi (okra cooked in yogurt) and lasuni palak (delicately flavored garlicky spinach); the latter, especially, is a perfect complement to the heavier meat dishes. Mop up the butter-soaked, sinfully rich Kandahari or Kaali dal (black dal) with pudina paratha (mint bread) or zaafraani naan cooked with saffron and poppy seeds. One letdown was the laal maas (literally translated, “red meat”), a Rajasthani specialty, that didn’t live up to its potential—it was smothered rather than spiced with clove. Skip ahead to dessert: The malpua with rabri (pancake topped with sweet, thickened milk and nuts) is excellent. Or ask for one of the homemade kulfis (ice creams). Wash it all down with a refreshing shikanjvi, a tall glass of lemonade with masala spices and a slice of lime. The meal is accompanied by live Indian classical instrumental music. (Note that Kandahar hosts regular food festivals; if you’re around, don’t miss one—you’re sure to sample some unrivaled delights.) The Oberoi, Nariman Point. & 022/5632-5757. Average meal Rs 1,500 ($35) per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:45pm and 7:30–11.30pm.

Khyber NORTH INDIAN Khyber has been going strong for decades now, so much so that there is not even a sign outside to mark the restaurant, but its classic Mughlai cuisine and tender kebabs remain outstanding. Start with kali mirch rawas (fish seasoned in black pepper), firm yet meltingly good; or chicken badami (in rich almond sauce) and paneer shashlik (grilled Indian cottage cheese, spices, and vegetables). Follow these with Khyber raan (lamb) or mutton chaap Mughlai and piping-hot naan bread. To cleanse the palate (Mughlai cuisine is very rich), order the fresh seasonal fruit or the ras malai. Besides the great food, Khyber is an experience in royal

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dining: The opulent decor includes original paintings by some of India’s most famous artists (the likes of M. F. Hussain and Anjolie Ela Menon). Seating is intimate and maximizes privacy—perfect for a romantic dinner (ask to be seated in the Anjolie Ela Menon Room). Recent experiences were marred by patchy service—you may have to remind your waiter of a request. 154 MG Rd., Kala Ghoda. & 022/2267-3227 through -3229. Reservations usually required on weekends. Main courses Rs 230–Rs 280 ($5–$6.30); average meal Rs 600 ($14) per person. MC, V. Daily 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30–11:30pm.

PACIFIC RIM/FUSION The only way to do justice to Tiffin’s impressive 89-item, all-day dining menu featuring food from China, Mexico, Japan, and Australia (along with some Indian) is to come back repeatedly. Eating is a celebration here, enhanced by presentation and a lively decor. We recommend the following: salad of palm hearts, fennel, thin slices of tart apple, and water chestnut; chargrilled lamb chops served with string beans and prosciutto chips; grilled basil chicken teamed with a zucchini risotto, flavored with just the right amount of Parmesan; or pork chops and apple tatin. You can also get a rigorously Japanese sushi and sashimi platter at the interactive sushi bar, where Filipino chef Francesco Balanquit takes orders. Don’t miss pastry chef Manuel’s house-special ice creams, which combine unusual flavors such as wasabi and caramelized brown sugar, green tea and candied ginger (refreshing), or rose and lychee (a local favorite). Wash it down with a fresh juice, though some of the “healthier” ones containing amla (Indian gooseberry) can run a tad sour; opt instead for the more sane apple, red beet, and celery blend.

Tiffin

The Oberoi, Nariman Point. & 022/5632-5757. Main courses Rs 450–Rs 850 ($10–$19); champagne brunch Sun Rs 1,500 ($35). AE, MC, V. Daily 6.30am–11.30pm.

SEAFOOD Another restaurant frequented by the who’s who of Mumbai, Trishna, presided over by owner Ravi Anchan, is a seafood legend in Mumbai and is considered one of the best in the world. Butter pepper garlic king crab is Trishna’s signature dish, but you’ll also find jumbo pomfrets and tiger prawns (done in any style) cooked to perfection. Despite its reputation as a somewhat snobbish restaurant, Trishna isn’t about ambience (the decor in fact is somewhat tacky and, yes, staff do have a reputation for snootiness)—everyone is here for the food. Recommended dishes include pomfret Hyderabadi—barbecued with black pepper, it’s a true masterpiece; pomfret hariyali enveloped in green masala and baked in a tandoor; fish sholay kebab; Kolhapuri prawns (spicy, so order a drink); or squid expertly prepared with butter, pepper, and garlic. Don’t expect to get in any night without a reservation, unless you’re willing to arrive by 7pm and be out by 8pm. Trishna

Birla Mansion, Sai Baba Marg (next to Commerce House), Kala Ghoda, Fort. & 022/2270-3213 or -3214. Reservations essential. Main courses Rs 140–Rs 780 ($3.40–$18) depending on fish size; crab/lobster Rs 500–Rs 1,050 ($11–$24). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3:30pm and 6pm–12:15am (from 7pm on weekends and holidays).

M O D E R AT E / I N E X P E N S I V E

Now in its 28th year, Delhi Darbar (& 022/2202-0235; daily 11:30am–midnight; average meal Rs 300/$6.80) is a Mumbai institution serving rather standard (and oily) Mughlai food. It has several branches in Mumbai, but we recommend only the one at Colaba. No one comes here for the ambience or service—most come for the tandoori dishes or the mutton or chicken biryani. Ignore the Chinese menu. No alcohol is served or allowed.

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The Skinny on Street Food

Street food is something you should be careful about experimenting with anywhere in India. The spots we recommend are not on the street; they serve sanitized (yet authentic) versions of what is available on the street. One place where you can safely try street food while sipping chilled beer is Vithal Bhelwala , near the Excelsior Theatre, Fort (& 022/5631-7211 or -7212; daily 11am–11pm). You get to eat real Mumbai-style street food under very sanitary (if busy and noisy) conditions at Swati Snacks , in Tardeo (& 022/5680-8405 or -8406; daily 11am–11pm). This is the best street food that’s not actually on the street. Try the sev puri, bhel, dahi batata puri (Rs 41/90¢ each), or any of the numerous snack items topped with delicious sweet, sour, and spicy chutneys and sauces (ask for milder sauces if you prefer). Round out your meal with homemade fruitflavored ice creams. Locals come here more for the traditional Gujarati dishes not found anywhere else. If you want to experiment, try the superb peru nu shak (spiced guava eaten with Indian bread) and panki (thin pancakes steamed in banana leaf). Come for a late lunch, or you will have to wait at least 15 minutes for a table—a wait that’s justly rewarded once you’re inside.

Britannia This no-nonsense, no-frills, 90-year-old Irani (PerMoments IRANI sian) restaurant is the last of a dying breed of establishments once found on every corner of South Mumbai. The environment is simple and functional, with little room for extras like presentation and ambience. Most people come here to consume one or more of three excellent dishes: Berry pulao (a version of the Iranian zereshk polow) is the outstanding signature dish, made with succulent spiced boneless mutton (or chicken), fragrant long-grain basmati rice, and tart barberries imported from Iran. Patra ni machchi is pomfret fish coated in chutney made with cilantro, coconut, and assorted spices; wrapped in a banana leaf; and steamed—always moist and flaky with flavors all the way down to the bone. The mutton dhansak is a combination of fragrant brown rice and thick dal in which the meat has been cooked—a dense, hearty meal that tastes a million times better than it looks. (Vegetarians, though catered to, should give this restaurant a miss.) Opposite New Customs House, Ballard Estate Fort. & 022/2261-5264. Berry pulao Rs 160–Rs 180 ($3.45–$12); dhansak or patra ni machchi Rs 150 ($3.40). AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch only Mon–Sat 11:30am–3:30pm.

Konkan Café KONKAN Chef Ananda Solomon has earned an enviable reputation for his inspired specialties, garnered from up and down the Konkan coast and served with style. Although the menu is constantly reinvented, look for specialties like the red snapper cooked in a spicy tomato-onion sauce and baked in banana leaves; and the heavenly sukha mutton. You can also sample such Goan specialties as chicken cafreal (chicken marinated with chilies and spices and roasted or barbecued) or pomfret recheado (a hot and spicy masala) with feni (the Goan liquor distilled from coconuts or cashews). Savor the spectacular crab cakes with a fine bottle of wine from an extensive selection. Taj President Hotel (see “Where to Stay,” earlier in this chapter). & 022/5665-0808. Thali Rs 375 ($8.40) vegetarian, Rs 450 ($10) non-veg; a la carte Rs 600 ($14) per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:45pm and 7–11:45pm.

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Koyla INDIAN/HOOKAH BAR Come here primarily for the leisurely ambience and setting: a candlelit terrace with Arabian music playing in the background. The restaurant is located on the rooftop of the Gulf Hotel in Colaba (torn down by the municipality in early 2005 for unregulated structures, but because it’s owned by the son of a local politician, it was up and running again within months). The most popular item on the menu is not food, but the sheesha (hookah or pipe), with fruity flavors like green apple and strawberry. For just Rs 100 ($2.30), several friends can share a pipe that lasts about 20 to 30 minutes. The fairly regular fare might be worthwhile just to enjoy the cool evening breeze (rare in humid Mumbai) and partial view. Or come after dinner relax, sit back, and linger over a “mocktail” (no alcohol is served). The atmosphere is laid-back and no one will hustle you out—but service can be painfully slow. Reservations are recommended; even then, expect a wait. The Rs 100 ($2.30) per-person cover charge is redeemable against your bill. Gulf Hotel, next to Radio Club, Colaba, Mumbai 400 005. & 022/5636-9999. Kebabs Rs 135–Rs 165 ($3–$3.70); Main courses average Rs 250 ($5.70). AE, DC,MC, V. Daily 8pm–2.30am.

CONTINENTAL/INDIAN/CHINESE It’s not uncommon to walk into this Colaba institution and not see a single Indian face around. Why it’s such a hit with foreigners is a mystery, since the food is good but not exceptional, and the atmosphere can be noisy and rather smoky. All the same, it is consistent, and because it’s one of those popular places where tourists like to share stories with other tourists over a beer, it deserves mention. It caters to Western tastes by providing items like cereals, eggs and toast, fish and chips, and club sandwiches side by side with chicken biryani and Indian-Chinese fare. The fresh fruit juices and lassis (yogurt drinks) are always a good bet if you’re looking for a light pick-me-up during shopping forays on the causeway. And if you’re keen to get the inside scoop on how Bollywood films are made, hang out here; casting agents looking for foreigners to work as extras on current productions frequently scan the clientele for able bodies at this favored travelers’ hangout. Tip: Check your bill before you pay it to make sure it doesn’t contain anything you didn’t order. Leopold Café

Colaba Causeway, Mumbai 400 005. & 022/2287-3362. Lassis/juices/milkshakes Rs 50 ($1.15); Mughlai main courses Rs 95 ($2.15); Chinese main courses Rs 110 ($2.50). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–midnight.

SEAFOOD The ceiling may be too low and the tables too close together, but this Manglorean seafood restaurant should not be missed if you love fish—it’s one of Mumbai’s best restaurants, consistently dishing out pleasing specialties. Everything is incredibly fresh, but favorites include surmai fry, pomfret curry, and tandoori pomfret—all outstanding. The latter (listed as a starter, but you can order it as a main) is served flawlessly moist; eaten with butter naan, it provides the most heavenly gastronomic experience imaginable. Also try the scrumptious prawns Koliwada, crab tandoori, pomfret in green masala, or any of the fish curries or gassis, all first-rate. (Note that gassi refers to the thick, spicy, coconut-based Manglorean curry, while the “curries” on the menu are a thinner version of the same.) Mahesh also serves meat, chicken, and Chinese dishes, but only the misguided would come here and skip the sensational seafood.

Mahesh Lunch Home

8D Cowasji Patel St., off Pherozeshah Mehta Rd., Fort, Mumbai 400 001. & 022/2287-0938 or 022/2202-3965. Fish fry/curry/gassi Rs 85–Rs 140 ($2–$3.20); jumbo pomfret/crab/lobster Rs 500–Rs 1,200 ($11–$28); other main courses Rs 200–Rs 325 ($4.55–$7.25). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3:30pm and 6pm–midnight.

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Samovar INDIAN This long, narrow restaurant inside Jehangir Art Gallery is another South Mumbai institution that has retained its charm and low prices in spite of its popularity. With quick, efficient service and a policy of not hurrying diners even if others are waiting, this is the perfect stopover after a day roaming the Prince of Wales museum and other local landmarks. Start with a delicious seasonal fruit juice— the guava juice is the best when it’s in season. Boti rolls (spiced meat wrapped in chapatis) rival with parathas (fried breads with a great assortment of stuffings) to satiate the taste buds along with the yummy bean-sprout salad. A stop here is a must: This is as close to home cooking as you are likely to get on a short visit to Mumbai. Jehangir Art Gallery, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai 400 023. & 022/2284-8000. Average meal Rs 150 ($3.40). No credit cards. Mon–Sat 11am–7:30pm. Closed Sun.

BEYOND DOWNTOWN: CHOWPATTY TO WORLI Copper Chimney KEBABS/MUGHLAI For more than 23 years, Copper Chimney has delighted those looking for the perfect kebabs. To this end, two pages of the menu are dedicated to kebabs, from the popular reshmi kebab (chicken) to the jhinga nisha (prawn) and tandoori prawn kebabs. These tender, creamy, smoky-flavored, melt-in-your-mouth kebabs can be followed by traditional Dum Pukht specialties such as chicken makhani (butter chicken) or the even more exquisite Peshawari lamb. No matter what you pick, you will leave satisfied. There’s also a daily buffet lunch, but don’t be swayed by the variety—some of the best items on the menu (such as the unfailingly wonderful butter chicken) are not offered at the buffet. Note that although Copper Chimney branches are found all over the city, the one at Worli is the only one to patronize. Dr. Annie Besant Rd., Worli, Mumbai 400 018. & 022/2492-0505 or -5333. Mains Rs 135–Rs 180 ($3.05–$4); tiger prawns Rs 575 ($13). AE, DC, MC, V. daily noon–4pm and 6pm–midnight.

Salt Water Grill INTERNATIONAL Alongside Chowpatty’s watersports complex H2O, this newly opened restaurant sits on the edge of the beach, a few feet from breaking waves. Well-lit terra-cotta sculptures add to the serene atmosphere of this absolutely stunning location. Pick from a variety of seating options—hammocks, lounge chairs, sofas, or traditional tables—and wiggle your toes in the sand, enjoying the sea breeze. Ask for the bartender’s special (hopefully it’s the plum vodka—made in-house—with peach schnapps and cranberry juice), or try one of the fresh fruit cocktails. Restaurant manager Naveen Kotyankar, who also designed the bar menu and is the in-house alchemist, tries hard to move customers away from mundane cocktails; he made us a Watermelon Caipiroska, definitely one of the best drinks on offer. Unfortunately, things go rather downhill from here: We sampled several chicken and fish main courses, but found them all below average. In the works, however, are a sangria bar and a sundowner snack menu, as well as casual upper-level seating on beanbags and coconut-leaf beach-umbrella-sheltered sun beds. H2O Water Sports Complex, next to Mafatlal Swimming Club, Marine Dr. & 022/2368-5459. Main courses Rs 280–Rs 650 ($6.35–$15); cocktails Rs 275–Rs 400 ($6.30–$9.10). AE, MC, V. Daily 7pm–12:30am.

SUBURBS—BANDRA TO JUHU & NEAR THE AIRPORT For prime people-watching, spend some time at Prithvi Café (& 022/26174118) in the Prithvi Theatre compound in Juhu. This pleasant, unpretentious cafe is where many of Mumbai’s up-and-coming and/or struggling artistes come to nosh and discuss their art. The cafe serves great fresh parathas and a variety of teas and coffees

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over which you can linger undisturbed. If it’s stargazing you’re after, the restaurant that takes the prize is the Olive Bar and Kitchen (Pali Hill Tourist Hotel, 14 Union Park Khar [W]; & 022/2605-8228), the trendiest restaurant in Bandra. This Mediterranean restaurant is expensive and the food inconsistent, but it’s the place to see and be seen. At the other end of the spectrum is Govinda (& 022/2620-0337), at the Hare Krishna Temple in Juhu, where you can gorge from a 56-item all-vegetarian buffet (no onions or garlic, either). Everything is cooked in pure ghee (clarified butter), however, so expect the meal to be extremely heavy. Some great dining options are available in the numerous five-star hotels in the vicinity of the airport. Dum Pukht and Dakshin at the ITC Grand Maratha Sheraton are worth mentioning, as are Stax at the Hyatt Regency near the international airport, and M Bar at the Grand Hyatt, closer to the domestic airport. M O D E R AT E Papa Päncho PUNJABI

Done up in honor of the thousands of truck drivers who endlessly careen around the roads of India, this gorgeously atmospheric restaurant is a faux take on the ubiquitous roadside dhaba (roadside eatery). Outside, beautiful Mumbaikars sit or lie on traditional manjis (beds), often whiling away the entire afternoon; you can join them, or sit indoors at copper-covered tables. A recently added larger section allows you to imagine yourself escaping to the peace and quiet of a Punjabi village, with Phulkari embroidery and handicrafts displayed on the stucco walls and dangling from the ceiling, along with old Punjabi folk music albums. The kitchen churns out authentic home-style dishes, but with a health-conscious emphasis on less butter and cream, making the food lighter than you’d find in a real village. Ask the charming hostess-cum-co-owner, “Mamta” Sekhri, about any specials, and insist that she bring you at least one chaat (snack) to whet your appetite. Papdi chaat topped with yogurt is cool, fresh, and delicately spiced—simply wonderful.

Shop no. 12, Gaspar Enclave, Dr. Ambedkar Rd., near Rupee Bank, Bandra W. & 022/2651-8732 or -8733. Main courses Rs 85–Rs 175 ($1.90–$3.95). MC, V. Daily 12:30pm–midnight.

EXPENSIVE M Bar GRILLHOUSE

This American-style, fine-dining grillhouse is a good place to kill a few hours before your domestic flight (the airport has no in-house dining options). Decor is a tad bland—in fact, more that of an executive-class airport lounge than a fine-dining restaurant—but the restaurant’s focal point is its wine library, which stocks over 90 labels and 1,400 bottles in ceiling-to-floor glass display cases, as well as its menu of 40-odd martinis (in part what the M stands for). For starters, sample the smoked salmon served on a bed of wild rice with sour cream and garnished with finely chopped onions; or order the asparagus and sun-dried tomato salad with toasted pecans. Meats are grilled or barbecued, and come with a sauce of your choice; try the marinated boneless chicken with green-peppercorn sauce. In the dessert department, both the New York cheesecake and coffee mousse disappoint; skip them and opt for another delicious fruit-flavored martini.

Grand Hyatt Mumbai Hotel, off Western Express Hwy., Santa Cruz (E). & 022/5676-1234. Main courses Rs 250–Rs 320 ($5.70–$7.25) vegetarian, Rs 450–Rs 1,300 ($10–$30) non-vegetarian. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6pm (bar), dinner 7pm–midnight; Sun brunch 11am–4pm.

Saffron INDIAN The decor may be of the generic interior-decorating-magazine type, but if you like your kebabs, this is the place to come, with unlimited kebab platters on offer, served with a buttery dal cooked in a clay pot (thikri ki makhni dal), a

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curry, and choice of flaky naan or kulcha (pita-like bread), salad, and dessert. Particularly spectacular is the pink salmon kebab, which is beautifully moist with just the right light touch of spices. The garlic butter naan is so good it hardly needs accompaniment. Chicken and mutton mains like bhuna gosht and dum ki murg are good, but we doubt you’ll get beyond the kebab platters! Warning: The food is rich and heavy, so don’t come here for a light meal. Service, like that at all the restaurants in this hotel, is exceptionally good. Some tables are a bit too close to each other; ask for corner seating. JW Marriott, Juhu-Tara Rd. & 022/5693-3000. Kebab platters Rs 695–Rs 1,250 ($16–$29); mains Rs 395–Rs 595 ($9–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7pm–midnight.

Stax ITALIAN/SEAFOOD Very near the international airport, this is another good place to kill time if you’re waiting for a flight (again, the airport has no in-house dining options). Focusing on food from the coastal provinces of Italy, it has a wonderful fresh seafood tank. Chef Giovanni Parrella produces great antipasti, from the basic insalata caprese to the Naples-style seafood salad with zucchini and peppers. Or order classic Sicilian seafood soup, so good you’ll want to order a refill. Pasta-lovers should order the delicate Sardinian linguine with lobster, mint, and saffron sauce, though we favored the lamb shank, cooked Milanese style, with saffron risotto. Portions are large, so it may be difficult to eat both an Italian-style primi and a secondi, but that probably has more to do with the clientele than the chef. The decor here is modern and mostly pleasant, except for the large tacky Styrofoam shapes overhead. Tables are placed far enough from each other so that even when the restaurant is packed, you can enjoy a

The Thali: Gujarati & Rajasthani Cuisine at its Best You can’t leave this city without consuming at least one thali, the meal that really tests the size of your appetite! It works like this: Sit down, and in less than a minute you’re expected to declare which thali you want—ordinary, special, and so on. Seconds later, a large, stainless-steel (or silver) plate (thali) arrives along with six to eight small bowls (katoris) resting on it. The waiters then fill every one of the multiple katoris as well as the rest of the plate with a large assortment of steaming-hot, spiced vegetables, savories, dals, beans, rotis, puris, and so on. To wash it down, you’re served water and a glass of delicious, super-thin, cumin-flavored buttermilk (chaas). As you eat, your katoris will be topped up, so indicate what you want for seconds, thirds, fourths—a veritable onslaught that won’t stop until you say so. Then it’s a round of rice or khichdi (a mixture of rice and dal) and, in some restaurants, dessert. Not only are thalis a great value (you pay Rs 50–Rs 250/$1.15–$5.70), but they come pretty close to the home cooking of the country’s Gujarati (or Rajasthani) population. A personal favorite is Panchvati Gaurav (& 022/2208-4877; opposite Bombay Hospital, Marine Lines; Tues–Sun 11am–3pm and 7–10:30pm; Mon lunch only), where you’ll pay Rs 105 to Rs 180 ($2.40–$4.10) for an excellent meal. Alternatively, try Thackers (& 022/2205-3641; 116 Marine St., Marine Lines; daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11pm) for a Surat-style Gujarati meal served on silver plates at perhaps a more relaxed pace. Chetna Restaurant and Bar (& 022/2284-4968; Fort; daily 12:30–3:30pm, 4:30–6:30pm [snacks only], and 7:30–11:30pm) has many options and even serves a diet thali (Chetna Lite)—but doesn’t that miss the point?

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private conversation and dinner. Service is exemplary, as is the wine selection, and the desserts are just divine, with the crowning glory definitely the heavenly hazelnut gelato. Hyatt Regency, Sahar Airport Rd., Mumbai 400 099. & 022/5696-1234. Main courses Rs 380–Rs 950 ($8.65–$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7pm–midnight.

Zenzi ECLECTIC Overstuffed sofas scattered with plump cushions beckon as you enter this hip, warm-hued, lounge-bar-restaurant on Bandra’s restaurant-happy Waterfield Road. Candles in chai glasses illuminate the glossy wood tables, and funky tunes foment a laid-back atmosphere. You can sit in the quieter restaurant area or at a table near the long bar that is filled with expats, upwardly mobile couples, and office workers. Better still, if the weather is fine, sit outside on the terrace. Fortunately, the great atmosphere comes with good food. Begin with Zenzi Dream, a salad with arugula, cherry tomatoes, and goat cheese doused in a honey-ginger dressing. Or start with the soft-shell crab roll, wrapped in roasted nori-sheet glass noodles. Main-course portions are large; we recommend the Zenzi Wok with neatly leaf-wrapped sliced lamb tenderloin. Drinks are also good but cost as much as a main course. In a place where the food looks as pretty as the decor, the art for sale on the walls can be a bit disconcerting—especially when said art includes a larger-than-life fetus being slashed with barbed wire. On varying nights, you may encounter live bands, DJs spinning modern tracks, or stand-up comedy acts adding perk to your meal. 183 Waterfield Rd., Bandra (W), Mumbai 400 050. & 022/5643-0670. Fax 022/56490135. www.zenzi-india.com. Main courses Rs 200–Rs 480 ($4.55–$11). MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am (separate menus for snacks, Sun brunch, lunch, drinks, wine, dinner, and specials).

6 Shopping From internationally renowned haute couture to dirt-cheap one-season wonders, intricate jewelry and unique antiques to tawdry gifts and fabulous textiles, Mumbai is known as a shopper’s paradise, and you’ll find pretty much everything the country has to offer here. If you’re shopping on the street or in the markets (see “Markets,” earlier in this chapter), take your time, sift and sort, establish authenticity and, if necessary, don’t be afraid to bargain hard. That said, bear in mind that (as elsewhere in India) a “bargain,” particularly when it comes to jewelry and antiques, is probably a cheap bauble or reproduction—fakes are a dime a dozen, as are the con men who sell them. Besides the areas described below, you will find that the suburb of Bandra has become a local shopping haven, with Linking Road, Hill Road, and several other streets overflowing with shops and street stalls selling clothes, shoes, and everything else under the sun. In addition, Western-style multistory department stores like Shopper’s Stop and Globus are filled with all kinds of garments and fashions. If you’re shopping in Bandra, make time to visit the very upmarket Frazer and Haws store (Landmark Building, Pali Naka, Bandra; & 022/5675-0200), which carries eclectic and funky silver objets d’art, including sleek idols of Indian gods and goddesses like Ganesha and Laxmi. Also in Bandra are Fab India (see below) and dozens of trendy jewelry stores.

CLOTHING, FABRICS & HOME TEXTILES COLABA, FORT & MARINE DRIVE

Central Cottage Industries Emporium (behind Regal Cinema; & 022/2202-6564 or -7537; daily 10am–7pm) is the large, government-owned, fixed-price shop aimed at tourists, with a reputation for carrying well-crafted items that offer relatively good value (not the cheapest stuff out there but you won’t get ripped off ). Established dur-

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ing the 1950s in an attempt to sustain traditional handicrafts, the massive showroom is crammed full of everything and anything that’s likely to remind you of India. At the very least, a visit here will give you an idea of what items should more or less cost. A better shopping experience, at least from a store and design point of view, is the Bombay Store (Sir P.M. Rd., Fort; & 022/2288-5048, -5049, or -5052; Mon–Sat 10:30am–7:30pm, Sun 10:30am–6:30pm), where you’ll find every imaginable Indian handicraft and design, from bed linens and crockery to incense and aromatherapy oils. And if you’re looking for another reason to book into the Taj Mahal Hotel, it’s worth knowing that the in-house shops are stocked with sought-after international and Indian brands and products (particularly Pashmina shawls, from simple water Pashminas at around Rs 600/$14 to high-end quality ones for around Rs 6,000/$137), though obviously you pay a price for the convenience of location, and the shopping experience is relatively sterile. The same holds true for the in-house shop at the Hilton Towers. Having created garments for Hillary Clinton, Demi Moore, and Liza Minneli, and earned the accolades “Crystal King” and “Czar of Embroidery,” Azeem Khan is one of Mumbai’s best-known designers. To find your very own slice of Indian haute couture, visit Azeem Khan Couture in Colaba (1 Usha Sadan; & 022/2215-1028; www. azeemkhan.com). Ensemble (Great Western Building, 130/132 Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Kala Ghoda/Fort; & 022/2287-2882, 022/2284-3227, or -5118) is an upmarket boutique where you will find the greatest variety of East-meets-West evening wear; prominent designers to look for here include Shahab Durazi, Tarun Tahiliani, Rajesh Pratap, Monisha Jaisingh, Tarana Rajpal, Abhishek Gupta, and Sunita Shankar. At Indian Textiles (Taj Mahal Hotel; & 022/2202-8783 or 022/2204-9278), you’ll find some of the best Benarasi woven silks and brocades in the country, sold by the yard, as well as authentic Pashmina shawls. Also look for hand-dyed silk stoles by Jamnadas Khatri (& 022/2242-5711 or 022/2374-0947), made with vegetable dyes using the Rajasthani tie-and-dye technique. Hand-loomed products are found in abundance at fabulous Fab India (Jeroo Building, 137 M.G. Rd., Kala Ghoda; & 022/2262-6539; other outlets in Bandra). If you’ve loved the furnishings at many of the Taj hotels around the country, make your way to Zeba in Colaba or Worli (Bhaveshwar, 148–B, Dr. Annie Besant Rd., Worli Naka; & 022/2495-3711; also at Royal Terrace, 58 Wodehouse Rd., Colaba; & 022/2218-8797) for extensive collections of highly desirable home textiles, accessories, carpets, and dhurries in great original styles. Zeba is owned by the young, flamboyant Krsna Mehta, whose outfit creates in-house designs for its textiles in cotton, silk, jute, and a range of graceful fabrics, using both earthy and vibrant colors. Zeba will custom-design any living space. Yamini (President House, Wodehouse Rd., Colaba; & 022/2218-4143 or -4145; also in Bandra, & 022/2643-7667) stocks designer linen, tablecloths, bolsters, curtains, bed covers, napkins, and even lampshades. Mumbaikar Reva Sethi is the fashion designer responsible for the collection, and her designs have even been used on board the prime minister’s private jet. If quality is all that matters and price is not a concern, Ravissant (17A Cooperage Rd., New India Insurance Centre; & 022/2287-3405) has a selection of sterling-silver teapots, vases, photo frames, and assorted stylish collectibles that sport clean modern lines and hark back to the Deco period. C H O W PAT T Y, P E D D E R R O A D, N A P E A N S E A R O A D

Contemporary Arts and Crafts, in the residential neighborhood of Napean Sea Road (near Kemps Corner; & 022/2363-1979; Mon–Sat 10am–8pm, Sun 10am–7pm),

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has tasteful and sometimes uncommon gifts from all over India. Famous Indian designer Ritu Kumar has several outlets specializing in silk and cotton designer-ethnic wear, much of it a blend of Western and Indian influences. Ritu’s Boutique can be found on Warden Road (& 022/2367-8593 or -2947) as well as at Hilton Towers and Phoenix Mills. Another boutique that is a must-see for fashionistas is Mélange (33 Altamount Rd., Kemps Corner; & 022/2385-4492 or 022/2386-9628), known for its ultra-feminine designer dresses made from delicate chiffon. If you don’t plan to visit Jaipur, stop at the Mumbai branch of Anokhi (Rasik Nivas, Metro Motors Lane, off Hughes Rd.; & 022/2368-5761), for its East-meets-West garments, accessories, and housewares. Nearby is Cottons (& 022/2368-5950 or 022/2368-5987), also headquartered in Jaipur, a boutique that sells both Indo-Western and ethnic Indian wear at more affordable rates. India’s most famous dhurrie designer is Shyam Ahuja (78 India House, Kemps Corner; & 022/2386-7372; also an outlet store in the far-out suburb of Thane), known for outstanding and expensive hand-woven products. Besides gorgeous home furnishings, table linen, bathrobes, and towels, you can purchase authentic Pashmina shawls here.

JEWELRY Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri (241/43 Zaveri Bazaar; & 022/2342-5001 or -5002), stretching over five separate floors, has a reputation for exceptional gold and diamond jewelry that dates back to 1865. It’s very popular with Mumbai’s wealthier crowd, so don’t expect exceptionally good prices. Gazdar (Taj Mahal Hotel shopping arcade; & 022/2202-3666) has been selling Indian, Western, antique, and contemporary jewelry for more than 70 years; again, the prices go with the territory. Serious buyers looking for one-of-a-kind pieces should consider contacting master craftspeople Viren Bhagat (& 022/2361-1171 or -1172) or Panna J. Jhaveri (& 022/2369-0751), both by appointment only. And prices aren’t that ridiculous; you can pick up a pair of diamond earrings from Panna J. Jhaveri for under $100.

ANTIQUES, ART & FURNITURE For real antique finds and colonial furniture, there’s no place like Chor Bazaar’s Mutton Street (see “Markets,” earlier in this chapter; closed Fri), which is a wonderful place at which to browse and discover hidden treasures. You’ll spot plenty of imitation antiques and faux products here, but these are usually pretty easy to identify. Store owners will often (but not always) tell you which are genuine items and which are reproductions. If, however, walking through dirty streets and sifting through dusty shops is not your cup of tea, head straight for the more established antiques stores in the city, some of the best of which are downtown in Colaba. Natesan’s Antiqarts (& 022/2285-2700), conveniently located at Jehangir Art Gallery, deals principally in stone, wood, and bronze items. Whether you pick up an ornate teak and sandalwood carving, a bronze piece created using the 4,500-year-old lost-wax process, or a refurbished antique, Natesan’s will arrange shipment. Nearby Phillips Antiques (opposite Prince of Wales Museum, Colaba; & 022/2202-0564 or 022/2282-0782; www.phillipsantiques.com) offers a similar service; besides four-poster beds, armchairs, writing tables, and hat stands, you’ll find gorgeous porcelain and pottery, brass and silverware, and a range of marble items for the home, not to mention ornamental pieces, antiquarian maps, lithographs, engravings, old photographs, and lovely lamps. Filled with beautiful objects, Heeramaneck (Readymoney Building, Battery

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Leaving Mumbai

The trip from central Mumbai to either of the airports can take far longer than expected—even outside peak traffic hours. Because most international flights are scheduled at similar, unusual hours, you will not be the only traveler racing to catch a plane. For international flights, you’ll also need 3 hours at the airport to negotiate the endless security checks and long waits at passport control. If you’re flying out after midnight, plan to leave the city at least 4 hours ahead of your flight. For daytime and earlier evening flights, you may want to add another hour to contend with the slow-moving traffic. Adventurous travelers who’ve already spent some time in Mumbai can cut down on time spent in traffic by catching a train from Churchgate Station to Vile Parle (around Rs 80/$1.80 for a first-class ticket) and then taking an autorickshaw (also Rs 80/$1.80) or taxi to the airport.

St., Colaba; & 022/2202-1778 or 022/2285-6340) is another essential pit stop for antiques lovers. It has an especially good collection of Victorian and Indian silverware, including tea sets, candle stands, and cutlery.

7 Mumbai After Dark BARS & CAFES Join the backpackers and other Western tourists for a cold Kingfisher beer at Leopold’s Café (& 022/2287-3362 or 022/2282-8185) on Colaba Causeway; or step into smoky, popular Café Mondegar or Mondy’s (near Regal Cinema; & 022/ 2202-0591), where the atmosphere is always lively and the jukebox fires up popular Western music. Indus, behind the Taj Mahal Hotel, is another bar/restaurant (& 022/2202-1661) with recently revamped interiors that’s become a popular local hangout—not only because it serves relatively inexpensive alcohol, but because the inhouse DJ provides a pleasant change from the overdose of Hindi remixes you hear everywhere else. Nearby is the Sports Bar (& 022/5639-6681), perfect for beer-quaffers who can get a huge pitcher of beer (3 liters) for just Rs 475 ($11), and where you can also play pool or shoot hoops. If rock ’n’ roll is more your taste, head for Tavern (Hotel Fariyas; & 022/2204-2911), farther down Colaba, where the jeans-and-Tshirt clique groove to classic rock and cheap drinks. Or grab a drink and request a song at popular but small Ghetto (& 022/2351-4725) at Mahalaxmi, near Haji Ali. This is where you’ll find collegians and after-workers rubbing shoulders with graying hippies who still salute Bob Marley and Jim Morrison; live bands are on tap some nights (entry free). If you’re in the hip suburb of Bandra, you’ll find a similar scene at Toto’s Garage (Pali Naka; & 022/2600-5494), where the main attraction, apart from the music, is the shell of a car hanging from the ceiling over patrons’ heads. For über-trendy, you can’t beat Indigo (& 022/5636-8999 or 022/2202-3592; see “Where To Dine,” earlier in this chapter). At Colaba’s hippest joint, low tables with flickering candles light up the who’s who of Mumbai as they sip fine wines and other drinks. Similarly chic but in Bandra is Olive Bar and Kitchen (Pali Hill Tourist Hotel, 14 Union Park Khar [W]; & 022/2605-8228), where celeb-spotting is the acknowledged pastime.

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Hidden behind two massive glass doors, the Library Bar (& 022/5665-0808) at the Taj President Hotel is a classy watering hole whose clientele consists of whiskeyswilling businesspeople and high rollers; check out the leather-bound books and live music (Tues–Sun) provided by a youthful Filipino duo. Despite the plush, sophisticated decor, the atmosphere is pleasantly laid-back. Vivacious Maria, the singer, is especially known for her ability to make the most crusty barfly dance. If your holy grail is a chic, exclusive lounge bar, nothing beats Opium Den at the Hilton Towers (& 022/5632-6320), which attracts well-heeled 30-something locals, expats, and hotel guests. Not far away is Geoffrey’s (Hotel Marine Plaza; & 022/2285-1212), which is always packed, especially with its post-10pm happy hour. Around the corner from Geoffrey’s is Not Just Jazz By the Bay (& 022/2282-0957), which has live bands Wednesday to Saturday and karaoke Sunday through Tuesday. If you’re in Central Mumbai’s new business districts, Dublin (& 022/2410-1010) in the ITC Grand Central Sheraton and Towers, with its cool green walls, leather sofas, and stained-glass panels, is a good place for a quiet drink. For more options, see “Hot Spots with Views,” earlier in this chapter.

MUSIC, THEATER & CINEMA The best way to figure out what’s going on in the city is to pick up a copy of Time Out Mumbai, the fortnightly (twice-monthly) magazine that has the most comprehensive Mumbai listings. “The Hot List” supplement in the daily tabloid Mid Day also carries extensive listings of live music events, stage productions, and film screenings. The Times of India features an extensive “Bombay Times” section that lists and advertises cultural activities, entertainment happenings, and movies. Mumbai has numerous performance spaces, including its premier National Centre for the Performing Arts (Nariman Point; & 022/2283-3737). The NCPA houses several stages, including the city’s “first opera theater,” Jamshed Bhabha Theatre, which saw its first operatic production in 2003. English dramas and lavish musical concerts are held in Tata Theatre; the aptly named Little Theatre features work of a more intimate scale. For offbeat drama, student work, and small-scale music and dance, the black-box Experimental Theatre, with its audience proximity, is the place to go. The NCPA may occasionally host special film events and festivals, but these are open only to members. Lunchtime concerts in the foyer of Tata Theatre are a pleasant new addition; the buffet (1–2pm) may be lackluster, but the accompanying live musicians are usually good. Not far from Juhu Beach is one of Mumbai’s best-known theaters, Prithvi Theatre (Janki-Kutir, Juhu-Church Rd.; & 022/2614-9546; www.prithvitheatre.org), which is owned by Bollywood’s founding family, the Kapoors. Prithvi has a small, intimate, and excellent performance space with great acoustics, and the aisles and steps are often crammed with enthusiasts. The country’s best plays are staged here during an annual drama festival (Nov–Dec), and the garden cafe outside is popular with the city’s culturati. Over the first weekend of every month (except June–Sept), free play readings and other performances are held in the gardens at Horniman Circle in the Fort area; contact Prithvi for details. Both Indian and Western theater and music performances are staged in the main auditorium of Nehru Centre (Dr. Annie Besant Rd., near Mahalaxmi Race Course, Worli; & 022/2493-2667). There’s also a smaller stage for experimental work. Nehru Centre also houses Nehru Science Museum and a Planetarium (& 022/24920510), with (not exceptional) shows Tuesday through Sunday at 3pm.

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NIGHTCLUBS You could spend your entire stay in Mumbai partying in fantastic clubs each night and recovering the following day in your hotel room—this is one Indian city that loves to party. Although Western music is popular and has the buff and the gorgeous strutting their stuff every night of the week, Mumbaikars (thankfully) have a deep passion for contemporary Hindi songs as well, and it’s not unusual to spot young studs demonstrating the choreographed rhythms of MTV India’s latest local video, much to the delight of their female companions. There are literally dozens of nightspots in the city, the most attractive being in the five-star hotels. However, over the last 2 years the nightclub scene has shifted so far into the suburbs of Colaba, Bandra, and Juhu that even affluent South Mumbaikars who wouldn’t normally venture to the ’burbs make a beeline for the happening clubs there. For the most up-to-date news on what’s hot and what’s not, talk to your concierge, because the nightclub scene changes rapidly. Here’s a list of some of the most popular nightspots in mid-2005—and the ones most likely to continue to stay in top gear. Entry fees differ depending on the night, and prices are often per (heterosexual) couple; usually this entitles you to coupons that can be exchanged for overpriced drinks of a stipulated value. Note that many nightclubs charge extra for males entering alone, while most don’t allow “stag” entry at all, though foreigners may sometimes sidestep this rule. Closing times vary each night; there are “official” (currently 1:30am) and unofficial hours—which essentially means that most clubs stay open later than the time stipulated by law. The popularity of a club is sustained only if it can keep the cops out and stay open into the wee hours of the morning (five-star clubs can remain open until 3am, since they are inside private hotels). Tip: Take a page out of a hard-partying Mumbaikar’s book and tank up at one of the city’s watering holes before heading to a nightclub, where drink prices are usually exorbitant. In general, party-loving locals hit more than one nightclub/bar/lounge per evening throughout this island city; if you hook up with a group, you may want to join them. Note: If you crave Latin and ballroom dancing, including salsa, merengue, tango, jive, and the like, several spots in the city have Latin Ballroom Nights. Call Starters & More (& 022/2281-4124) at Churchgate (which also holds Jazz Nights the first Wed of the month) or Trafalgar Chowk (& 022/2645-9151) in Bandra for details. Enigma This is one of Mumbai’s hottest nightspots and a celeb-magnet. A 2004 face-lift gave it a circular central bar, a large dance floor, and a huge, colorful chandelier that shines almost as brightly as the Bollywood stars in attendance. Drinks are as expensive as the cover charge, but when well-known DJs Ryan Beck and Aqueel get behind the console, most don’t really care. Music is very modern—a combination of commercial Western music and Bollywood. Enigma is invariably packed to the hilt with a long queue of people waiting outside, though hotel guests can jump the line. It’s open Wednesday to Saturday only, and entry costs Rs 800 to Rs 1,500 ($18–$35) per couple, with coupons redeemable for drinks. JW Marriott, Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu Beach. & 022/5693-3000. Hawaiian Shack This popular Bandra club turns from beer bar on slow weekdays to happening nightspot on weekends. A boat-shaped bar, waiters in colorful Hawaiian shirts and straw hats, mostly Western ’80s music, and an extremely laidback atmosphere make this more popular than many of the more expensive clubs. Avoid Saturday night, when the dance floor is packed with swaying, sweaty bodies from bar to washroom. The music is dance-friendly, as is the crowd. and once your feet start tapping, it’ll be hard to resist jumping into the melee. It opens at 7pm, 2 full

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The Spirit of Mumbai: 944 Millimeters, But Not Out On July 26, 2005, it was pouring in Mumbai, a typical day in monsoon season. Until 2pm, that is, when a sudden, massive downpour began. It was later learned that this downpour was caused by an offshore vortex that created a giant cloudburst, mostly over the north of the city. In a single day, 944 millimeters (37.2 in.) of rain was spilled on Mumbai, the highest rainfall level ever recorded anywhere in India in one day, and well above the annual rainfall of cities like Chicago. Within hours, millions of people were stranded getting home as streets were dangerously flooded and traffic came to a standstill. The city’s lifeline, the dependable suburban train system that ferries some 6 million people each day, shut down, power outages occurred everywhere, cellphone networks failed, and phone lines were either dead or erratic. Those who could, began to walk home (some 10, 15, and up to 40km/25 miles away) through waist-deep, sometimes chest-deep water. But there were many who couldn’t. Busloads of schoolchildren were stranded in floodwaters higher than their heads, with parents clueless about their whereabouts. In this catastrophic situation, the spirit of Mumbai came through, in hundreds of little incidents reported throughout the city. In Juhu an elderly couple went downstairs in pouring rain and arranged to evacuate 40 schoolchildren trapped in a flooded bus outside their building; they corralled the kids into their modest 93-sq.-m (1,000-sq.-ft.) flat upstairs. They rounded up a few cookies, laid sheets on the ground for the kids to spend the night, and tried all the while to contact

hours before most other clubs, with an entry fee of Rs 400 to Rs 600 ($9.10–$14) per couple. Hotel Real Palace, 16th Rd., Pali Village, Bandra W. & 022/2605-8753. Insomnia The crowd that comes to this hugely popular upmarket, multi-space club is here to see and be seen, and the decor is comparable to that of some of the most fashionable nightclubs in the world. It’s also a fun place where guests can wangle free drinks, depending on the playful announcements: Women wearing more than two ear-studs get a Bacardi Breezer on the house; the guy who dances the longest on the bar wins a vodka—you get the picture. See if you fit the bill to cop a gratis entry: Some nights it’s women, or bankers, or journalists who get in free—but hey, professional ID required. The entry fee of Rs 600 to Rs 1,000 ($14–$23) buys two to four drinks; entry is free for hotel guests. Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Colaba. & 022/5665-3366. J49 Named after its postal address—Juhu, zip code 400049—this suburban nightclub booms with Bollywood beats each Sunday. Bollywood Nights celebrate the end of the week with a party that starts just before midnight (though the club opens by 8:30pm, and attracts minor ramp and big-screen celebs). It’s also one of the most reasonably priced places to get the local flavor: Weekend entry is only Rs 400 ($9.10) per couple; weeknights, Rs 200 ($4.55). Hotel Juhu Presidency, 148/B Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu. & 022/2618-4546. Polly Esther’s Recently expanded, this Colaba nightclub (and rip-off from the American chain of nightclubs) attracts a mixed crowd, from teenyboppers to 40-somethings, with its mix of Bollywood, pop, and ’80s music. The retro theme is echoed in posters of Michael Jackson and Madonna, managers with clown noses and multicolored

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frantic parents whose phones, like most in the city, were malfunctioning. Young men stood for all-night vigils around old open manholes in waist-deep water to forewarn people who might accidentally step in. People used old tires, construction equipment, huge rolls of cables, empty drums, and whatever they could find to rescue folk and give them shelter in their neighborhoods. Men and women cooked everything they had and stepped out of their homes to feed strangers trapped in unbelievable 40-hour traffic jams on highways all over the city. Strangers took strangers into their homes and fed and clothed them, vehicles that could move stopped to give pedestrians a ride, and some auto-rickshaw drivers ferried people short distances through the night without charging a rupee. Several men drowned rescuing others, and the death toll in the city eventually rose to nearly 1,000. During all this, there was no disaster management plan in place and no government announcement forthcoming; no politician even bothered to go on air to tell people what to do. Instead, private radio stations began airing messages between lost loved ones who could not reach each other. People communicated through radio jockeys who kept the announcements going nonstop, telling people what was going on, what to expect, what not to do, and how to stay safe. The disaster exposed the unique, never-say-die spirit of Mumbai, the can-do attitude that gets people up and going, to act when those who should be responsible and accountable fail to do so. On July 26, Mumbai showed itself as a community that put humanity first.

frizzy wigs, and a Polaroid man who’ll take your picture for Rs 50 ($1.15). The club’s spaciousness provides a welcome break from the cramped, smoky rooms found in other clubs around the city. Drinks are relatively reasonably priced, and the entry fee is Rs 600 to Rs 1,000 ($14–$23) per couple. Gordon House Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Colaba. & 022/2287-1122. Ra In the gentrified Phoenix Mills Compound, three nightclubs sit cheek-byjowl—Lush, popular with young adults; Provogue Lounge, store by day and club by night; and the latest entrant, Ra. Designed as an upmarket version of Lush, Ra plays the latest rage in loud music, from hip-hop to Hindi remixes. Entry is steep (Rs 1,000/$23 on Wed, Rs 1,500/$35 on Fri and Sat per couple), topped only by the drink prices (G&Ts cost Rs 450/$10). But judging by the numbers the bouncers turn away on weekends, nobody seems to mind. Phoenix Mills Complex, Lower Parel. & 022/5661-4343. Vie Lounge and Bar Set in a bungalow at the edge of Juhu Beach, Vie has three spaces: a restaurant (average), an enclosed nightclub area, and the pièce de résistance—an open-air lounge overlooking the Arabian Sea. We recommend the outer area for its sea breeze and laid-back ambience. Inside it’s louder (house and commercial music) and more like a traditional nightclub, with the DJ console nestled against the bar. Vie is open daily and earlier than most counterparts (8pm), but it is sometimes booked for a private party, so call ahead. Friday- and Saturday-night entrance fees are Rs 1,000 ($23) per couple; Wednesday is Ladies’ Night, with free alcohol for women while men pay Rs 700 ($16); and the rest of the week, entry is free. 102 Juhu Tara Rd., diagonally opposite Maneckji Cooper High School, Juhu. & 022/2660-3003.

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8 Aurangabad & the Ellora and Ajanta Caves The ancient cave temples at Ellora and Ajanta are among the finest historical sites India has to offer, and a detour to this far-flung region of Maharashtra to view these World Heritage Sites is well worth the effort. You can cover both Ellora and Ajanta comfortably in 2 days, but for those who are truly pressed for time, it is possible to see both sets of caves in a single (long, tiring) day. To do this, you’ll need a packed lunch from your hotel, and plenty of bottled water. Set out for Ajanta at about 7am, reaching the ticket office as it opens (recommended for the tranquillity of the experience, even if you’re not trying to cover both in a day). Spend no more than 3 hours exploring Ajanta, before heading for Ellora; your driver should be aware of the detour along the Ajanta–Aurangabad road that will get you there much faster. The caves at Ellora are spread out, so don’t drag your heels, and be sure not to miss the ultimate jaw-dropper, known as “Cave 16”: the Kailashnath temple complex is more carved mountain than cave. The world’s largest monolithic structure, it is twice the size of the Parthenon. Note that Ajanta is closed on Monday and Ellora on Tuesday.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE The quickest way to get here is to fly to Aurangabad’s airport (in Chikalthana, Jalna Rd., just 10km/61⁄4 miles from the city center) with Jet Airways (& 022/2285-5788 in Mumbai, 0240/244-1770 in Aurangabad). The flight from Mumbai lasts 45 minutes to an hour and costs around $85. You can also try Indian Airlines (& 0240/248-5421 or -3392). For a cheaper and fairly comfortable journey, book an air-conditioned chair car seat (Rs 369/$8.45) on the Tapovan Express train that leaves Mumbai’s VT/CST Station at 6:10am and reaches Aurangabad at 1:30pm. An alternative is the Devagiri Express, an overnight train that reaches Aurangabad at an inconvenient 4:10am (second-class air-conditioned sleeper berth Rs 731/$17). VISITOR INFORMATION You’ll find a tourist information booth at the airport arrivals hall, where you can pick up brochures on Aurangabad, Ajanta, and Ellora. The India Tourism Development Corporation (ITDC) office, in the MTDC Holiday Resort (Station Rd., Aurangabad 431 001; & 0240/233-1143; www.maharashtra tourism.gov.in; daily 7am–1pm and 3–8pm), is where you can book governmentoperated guided tours to both sets of caves. You can also book a private guide for the caves here, although it’ll work out cheaper to pick one up at the caves themselves. GETTING AROUND Taxis and auto-rickshaws are widely available in Aurangabad, and you’ll be approached at the airport by the usual touts offering you a “good deal.” Though the scamsters and touts here are far less aggressive or annoying than those you encounter farther north, always arrange the fare upfront; a taxi from the airport into the city should cost about Rs 200 ($4.55). Classic Travel Related Services (at the MTDC Holiday Resort; see above; & 0240/233-7788 or -5598; classic [emailprotected]) lives up to its name, and will arrange just about any type of transport for travel within Aurangabad and environs (count on around Rs 1,800/$40 for a full day with a car and driver; less if you’re only going to Ellora), and beyond. All hotels have travel desks that will organize a car with a guide for any of the sights in the area. AJANTA TRAVEL ADVISORY The drive from Aurangabad to Ajanta takes between 2 and 3 hours, so you’re advised to set off early in the day to avoid as much of the midday heat as possible. There are two ways of getting to the caves. Generally,

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visitors are dropped off in the public parking lot, several kilometers from the caves themselves; here you’ll find stalls selling awful souvenirs, snacks, and tourist paraphernalia, and “guides” flogging their services. You’ll also find green, eco-friendly buses that are the only vehicles allowed in the vicinity of the caves. Purchase a ticket and hop aboard for the short drive to the Ajanta ticket office. A far more rigorous but rewarding alternative is to have your driver drop you at the “Viewpoint,” reached via a turnoff some distance before the official parking facility. From here you can take in a panoramic view of the site across the river, then make your way down the rather difficult pathway (don’t attempt this route if you’re unsteady on your feet) and eventually to a footbridge that spans the Waghora River. Make for the ticket booth and proceed to the caves. Be sure to arrange to have your driver collect you from the parking lot when you’re done. ELLORA TRAVEL ADVISORY These caves are only 30km (19 miles) from Aurangabad, but you should rent a car and driver for the day for transfers between certain caves. Starting at Cave 1, visit as many of the principal caves as you have time for, until you reach Cave 16, where you should arrange for your driver to pick you up and then drive you to Cave 21, which is worth investigating. Having seen this cave, again have your driver take you to Cave 29, located alongside a waterfall, reachable via a rather dangerous pathway. Another short drive will take you to the Jain Group of temples, of which Cave 32 is the best example. Be warned that Ellora is enormously popular—especially during weekends and school vacations. Time your visit accordingly, or get here as soon as it opens, preferably not on a weekend. Ellora can be explored independently or with a guide (who may or may not understand English and who may sound like a recorded message); currently, the official rate is Rs 350 ($8) for the first 4 hours, or—if you’re really enthusiastic—Rs 500 ($11) for up to 8 hours.

AURANGABAD 388km (240 miles) E of Mumbai; 30km (19 miles) SE of Ellora; 106km (66 miles) SW of Ajanta

Aurangabad takes its name from the last of the great Moghul emperors, the hardedged Aurangzeb, who enacted an almost Shakespearean drama in the 17th century when he took control of the empire by murdering his siblings and imprisoning his father, Shah Jahan (see chapter 9), before leaving Delhi in 1693 to make this city his base. Today the sprawling city of Aurangabad is one of the fastest-growing industrial cities in India, and not a destination in its own right. However, time allowing, it has

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The Finest of Fabrics

Aurangabad is the only place in the world where himroo is still practiced, a millennia-old brocade-weaving craft that combines silk and cotton yarn into an almost satinlike fabric. Weavers spend around 2 to 3 months working on a single sari, even longer on more intricate and detailed designs. A custom-woven sari featuring a design based on one of the Ajanta murals takes a year to produce and costs about Rs 90,000 ($2,100)—which makes a beautiful himroo shawl with gold-plated silver thread for Rs 2,300 ($53) seem a real bargain. Head for Paithani Silk Weaving Centre, 54 P1 Town Center, behind Indian Airlines Booking Office, opposite M.G.M. College (& 0240/248-2811; daily 11am–8pm).

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a few attractions worth noting. Best known is Bibi-ka-Maqbara, the “Mini-Taj,” a mausoleum built for Aurangzeb’s empress by his son, Azam Shah, and a supposed replica of the more famous mausoleum built by his grandfather in Agra. Set amid large landscaped gardens and surrounded by high walls, it’s primarily interesting from a historical point of view, lacking as it does the fine detail and white marble of its inspiration (the builders were forced to complete the project in stone and plaster because of financial constraints). Although you can’t enter the tomb itself, an amble through the grounds (daily sunrise–10pm; admission Rs 100/$2.30) affords you the opportunity to compare this project with the original Agra masterpiece. If you follow the dirt road that leads past Bibi-ka-Maqbara up into the hills for some 2km (11⁄4 miles)—a stiff climb—you will come across the Aurangabad Buddhist Caves (Rs 100/$2.30), a series of nine man-made caves dating back to the 6th to 8th centuries. Similar to the Buddhist Caves at Ajanta (but not in the same class), they feature original painting fragments and offer spectacular views of the city and the landscape beyond. On the way to Ellora is Daulatabad Fort (Rs 100/$2.30). Built by the Yadavas between the 10th and 11th centuries A.D., it comprises an elaborate system of mazelike tunnels that served as an ingenious defense system: Once intruders were holed up deep within the tunnels, guards would welcome them with flaming torches, hot oil, or burning coals, effectively grilling them alive. A place largely untouched by tourism is Lonar Crater—created some 50,000 years ago when a meteorite careered into the basalt rock. It has a diameter of 1,800m (5,760 ft.), making it the largest crater in the world. Filling the bottom of the crater is water in which Ram and Sita are believed to have bathed while they were exiled from Ayodhya; temple ruins lie at the water’s edge. Tranquil and remote, the crater is about 150km (93 miles) east of Aurangabad.

THE BUDDHIST CAVES OF AJANTA During the 2nd century B.C., a long, curving swath of rock at a sharp hairpin bend in the Waghora River was chosen as the site for one of the most significant chapters in the creative history of Buddhism. Buddhist monks spent the next 700 years carving out prayer halls for worship (chaitya grihas) and monasteries (viharas) using little more than simple hand-held tools, natural pigments, and oil lamps and natural light reflected off bits of metal or pools of water. They decorated the caves with sculptures and magnificent murals that depict the life of the Buddha as well as everyday life. The caves were abandoned rather abruptly after almost 9 centuries of activity and were only rediscovered in 1819 (by a British cavalryman out terrorizing wild boars). Time has taken its toll on many of the murals, and modern-day restoration projects have even contributed to the near-ruin of some of the work. Despite this, the paintings continue to enthrall, and it’s hard to imagine the patience and profound sense of spiritual duty and devotion that led to the creation of this, arguably the best Buddhist site in India. It takes some time to explore all 29 caves (which are numbered from east to west), and the sensory overload can prove exhausting; try at least to see the eight described below. It’s a good idea to make your way to the last cave, then view the caves in reverse numerical order—in this way you won’t be running with the masses, and you won’t have a long walk back to the exit when you’re done. Richly decorated with carved Buddha figures, Cave 26 is a chaitya hall featuring a stupa (dome-shaped shrine) on which an image of the Master seated in a pavilion appears. In the left-hand wall is a huge carved figure of the reclining Buddha—a

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depiction of the Mahaparinirvana, his final salvation from the cycle of life and death. Beneath him, his disciples mourn his passing; above, celestial beings rejoice. Featuring the greatest profusion of well-preserved paintings is Cave 17, where maidens float overhead, accompanied by celestial musicians, and the doorway is adorned with Buddhas, female guardians, river goddesses, lotus petals, and scrollwork. One celebrated mural here depicts Prince Simhala’s encounter with the man-eating ogresses of Ceylon, where he’d been shipwrecked. Cave 16 has a rather lovely painting of Princess Sundari fainting upon hearing that her husband—the Buddha’s half-brother, Nanda—has decided to become a monk. Cave 10 is thought to be the oldest Ajanta temple, dating from around the 2nd century B.C. Dating to the 1st century B.C., Cave 9 is one of the earliest chaitya grihas, and is renowned for the elegant arched windows carved into the facade that allow soft diffused light into the atmospheric prayer hall. A large stupa is found at the back of the prayer hall. Cave 4 is incomplete, but its grandiose design makes it the largest of the Ajanta monasteries. Take a quick look, then head for Cave 2. The facade features images of Naga kings and their entourage. Inside the sanctum, a glorious mandala dominates the ceiling amid a profusion of beautiful floral designs, concentric circles, and abstract geometric designs with fantastic arrangements of flying figures, beasts, birds, flowers, and fruits. On the walls, well-preserved panels relate the birth of the Buddha. Cave 1 is one of the finest and most popular of the viharas at Ajanta, especially renowned for the fantastic murals of two bodhisattvas (saintly beings destined to become the Buddha) that flank the doorway of the antechamber. To the right, holding a thunderbolt, is Avalokitesvara (or Vajrapani), the most significant bodhisattva in Mahayana Buddhism. To the left is bejeweled Padmapani, his eyes cast humbly downward, a water lily in his hand. Within the antechamber is a huge seated Buddha with the Wheel of Dharma (or life) beneath his throne—his hands are in the Dharmachakra pravartana mudra, the gesture that initiates the motion of the wheel. On the wall to the right of the Buddha is an image of the dark princess being offered lotuses by another damsel. Last but not least, for a magnificent view of the entire Ajanta site and an idea of just why this particular spot was chosen, visit the viewing platforms on the opposite side of the river; the natural beauty of this horseshoe-shaped cliff is the perfect setting for a project so singularly inspired by spiritual fervor. It may even be the ideal starting point for your exploration. Note: You will be required to remove your shoes before entering many of the caves, so take comfortable (and cheap) footwear that slips on and off easily. Rs 250 ($5.70). Tues–Sun 9am–5:30pm; closed national holidays. No photography inside caves.

EXPLORING ELLORA Ellora’s 34 rock-sculpted temples, created sometime between the 4th and 9th centuries, were chiseled out of the hillside by Buddhists, Hindus, and Jains. A visit here allows for an excellent comparison of the stylistic features and narrative concerns of three distinct but compatible spiritual streams. Of the 12 Buddhist cave-temples, carved between the 6th and 8th centuries, the largest is Cave 5. The “cave of the celestial carpenter, Vishwakarma” (Cave 10), is acknowledged to be most beautiful of the Buddhist group. A large ribbed, vaulted chamber, it houses a big figure of the Teaching Buddha, while smaller figures look down from panels above. The atmosphere here is chilling, a place for the suspension

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Ambient Dining For a pleasant lunch on the way back from Ellora, try Ambience, which belongs to the same group that owns the excellent Tandoor restaurant in Aurangabad (see review below). It’s set in pleasant gardens 12km (71⁄2 miles) outside the city, in the vicinity of Daulatabad Fort. The place is also a lovely, atmospheric venue for dinner. Contact Ranjit (& 0240/261-5995; daily noon–midnight), or inquire at Tandoor.

of worldly realities and for complete focus on things divine. In the three-story vihara (monks’ domicile) of Cave 12, note the monks’ beds and pillows carved out of rock. Cave 13 marks the first of those carved by the Hindus which, when viewed in combination, offer a wealth of dynamic, exuberant representations of the colorful Hindu pantheon: Shiva as Natraj performs the dance of creation in Cave 14 (where he is also seen playing dice with his wife Parvati and piercing the blind demon Andhaka with a spear); and in Cave 15, the manifold avatars of Vishnu tell numerous tales while Shiva rides the divine chariot and prepares to destroy the palaces of the demons. Created over 150 years by 800 artisans, Kailashnath Temple (Cave 16) is the zenith of rock-cut Deccan architecture, and Ellora’s star attraction. A dazzling visualization of Mount Kailash, the mythical sacred abode of Shiva in the Tibetan Himalayas, it is unlike the other caves at Ellora, which were excavated into the hillside—it is effectively a mountain that has been whittled down to a free-standing temple, measuring 1,700 sq. m (18,299 sq. ft.). The intricacy of detail is remarkable; the temple basement, for example, consists of a row of mythical elephants carrying lotuses in their trunks as they appear to support the entire structure on their backs. Sculpted detail abounds in the temple and its excavated courtyard, with hardly an inch of wall space left unadorned—demons, dwarfs, deities, humans, celestial asparas, and animals occur in abundance. In the Nandi Pavilion facing the entrance is a beautiful carving of Laxshmi surrounded by adoring figures; seated in a pond, she is being bathed by attendant elephants carrying pots in their trunks. Also be on the lookout for mithunas—male and female figures in erotic situations. Ellora: Caves free. Entry to Kailashnath Temple Rs 250 ($5.70), free for children under 15. No filming of interiors. Wed–Mon 9am–5:30pm.

WHERE TO STAY If you want ultra-cheap and functional and intend to eat out, then by all means endure a night or two at the government-run MTDC Holiday Resort (Station Rd., Aurangabad 431 001; & 0240/233-1513), which offers relatively clean rooms in a central location (near restaurants, the taxi hub, and travel agencies) but little else. Insist on an air-conditioned unit. Standard rooms are Rs 750 ($17) and family rooms are Rs 780 ($18). The Ambassador Ajanta Set amid lovely lawns with fountains and well-maintained flower beds, The Ambassador offers good facilities and a comfortable environment—ideal for relaxing after a hectic day of cave exploration. Moghul artworks fill the white-and-beige marble lobby, creating a pleasant atmosphere (if not as stylish as at the Taj), and the public spaces are decorated with statues and objets d’art that reflect the creative spirit of Ellora and Ajanta. The best units overlook the swimming pool

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Ellora Parasnath

Indra Sabha

Jagannath Sabha

New Delhi

Cave 33

New Delhi

Cave 32

Cave 34

Cave 31

MAHARASHTRA Ellora

Mumbai (Bombay)

Chhota Kailasa

Jain JainGroup Group

Bay of Bengal

Caves 30–34 Caves 30-34

Cave 30

Dumar Lena Cave 29

Hindu HinduGroup Group Caves 13–29 Caves 13-29

Cave 28 Cave 27

a irij

Rive r

Cave 26

Cave 25 Cave 24

Cave 22 Cave 23 Cave 21

Rameshvara Temple Cave 20 Cave 19 Cave 18

Ghrishneshvara Temple

Cave 17

Ticket Office Cave 16

Kailashnath Temple Dashavatara Ravana-ki-Khai

Cave 15 Cave 14

Cave 13

Buddhist BuddhistGroup Group

Tin Thal Do Thal

Caves 1–12 Caves 1-12

Vishwakarma 0

Cave 8

100 meters

N 0

Cave 4

100 yards

To Aurangabad

Cave 12 Cave 11 Cave 10 Cave 9 Cave 7 Cave 6

Cave 1

Cave 5

Cave 2 Cave 3

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(ask for room nos. 201–204 or 220–225). Service here is personal and attentive but certainly not up to the standards set in larger cities. Jalna Rd., CIDCO, Aurangabad. & 0240/248-5211, -5212, -5213, or -5214. Fax 0240/248-4367. www.ambassador india.com. 92 units. $75 executive room double, $85 superior room double; $95 deluxe suite double. Ajanta and presidential suite tariffs on request. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; putting green; tennis court; badminton court; squash court; jogging track; health spa; travel assistance and car hires; business center; Internet access; currency exchange; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; babysitting on request; laundry and dry cleaning; doctoron-call. In room: A/C, TV, electronic bedside console, fridge, hair dryer, safe (except executive rooms), DVD player on request.

Surrounded by 5.2 hectares (13 acres) of pleasKids ant gardens, this small resort—built in 1996—is great if you’d rather stay out of town. Accommodations are in a variety of simple cottages, the size and level of privacy varying according to price. Deluxe cottages, while recently repainted, are quite basic, so opt for the superior category (ask for G1), with white marble flooring, stiff cane chairs, and tiled bathrooms with drench showers. There’s plenty here to keep young children occupied (including rabbits) while you relax in a quiet corner after sightseeing under the Maharashtrian sun. Breakfast is served poolside, under large, umbrellalike canopies; exotic birds, wild parrots, and busy butterflies provide the entertainment. Service tends to be a tad amateurish when guest numbers are down, so you may need to exercise patience.

Quality Inn The Meadows

Gat no. 135 and 136, Village Mitmita, Mumbai-Nasik Hwy., Aurangabad 431 002. & 0240/267-7412, -7413, or -7414. Fax 0240/267-7416. Reservations (Mumbai): & 022/5654-8361 or -8362. Fax 022/5635-0032. 48 units. Rs 2,900 ($66) deluxe cottage double, Rs 3,500 ($80) superior cottage double; Rs 5,500 ($126) 1-bedroom suite, Rs 8,500 ($194) 2bedroom suite. Rs 600 ($14) extra bed. Rates include airport/station transfers and breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; health club; skating rink; children’s playground; currency exchange; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning. In room: A/C,TV, minibar in suites, tea- and coffee-making facilities (except deluxe cottages), hair dryer and DVD player on request.

Taj Residency This is the best hotel in town, catering to Aurangabad’s high society crowd as well as to business and leisure travelers. A brand-new wing with 24 deluxe rooms opened in 2005, so ask for a room there. Located away from the center, the tranquil retreat is surrounded by verdant gardens overlooked or accessed by guest rooms; ground-floor patios also have swings. Don’t expect the type of ultra-luxurious decor you’ll find in major city hotels (the mattresses are foam and the carpeting slightly tatty in places), but accommodations are reasonably spacious, with teak furniture, Mughal arch-shaped mirrors, and miniature paintings on the walls. Ask for one of the corner units (no. 201 or 221)—these have extra balcony space. Suites, which include all meals, are large and plush and have wonderful private terraces. 8-N-12 CIDCO, Aurangabad 431 003. & 0240/238-1106 through -1110. Fax 0240/238-1053. www.tajhotels.com. [emailprotected]. 66 units. $75 standard double, $90 executive double, $100 deluxe double; $135 executive suite double. $180 deluxe suite. All rates except standard include breakfast and airport pick-up. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; fitness center; travel assistance and car hires; banqueting; business center; Internet access; currency exchange; 24-hr. room service; babysitting on request; laundry and dry cleaning; doctoron-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities (except in standard rooms), hair dryer.

WHERE TO DINE Most foreign visitors end up at Food Lovers (Station Rd. E., MTDC Holiday Resort), a palace of kitsch done in bamboo and fish tanks, with a separate entrance for “Families, Foreigners and Non-drinking Gents.” Backpackers swear by the food (the Chinese is actually better than the Indian), and prices are very reasonable. Our money’s

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on Tandoor, however (see review below). Another spot worth noting is Angeethi Restaurant & Bar (Jalna Rd.; & 0240/244-1988; Rs 38–Rs 225/90¢–$5), one of Aurangabad’s most popular restaurants, particularly with the business set. Try the Afghani chicken masala (pieces of boneless chicken cooked in a cashew-nut gravy), or the popular—and spicy—tandoori chicken masala. For something authentically Maharashtran, order chicken kolahpuri (not on the menu, but ask for it anyway), a spicy-hot chicken dish with a sharp chili, onion, and garlic base; if you can handle the sting, it’s delicious. But if it’s real authenticity you’re looking for, head to the no-frills Thaliwala’s Bhoj (Bhau Phatak Smruti Kamgar Bhavan, opposite Hotel Kartiki; & 0240/235-9438) and order a thali for a mere Rs 60 ($1.35). (See “The Thali: Gujarati & Rajasthani Cuisine at its Best,” earlier in this chapter.) Waiters (who generally don’t speak a syllable of English) will fill your platter with wonderful concoctions—mop it all up with savory, freshly prepared chapati. Tandoor INDIAN/MUGHLAI/CHINESE A large square door swings open to reveal this stylish eatery with walls of clay face-brick, tiled flooring, and a bold collection of Egyptian figures (King Tut’s head emerges incongruously from the brickwork). Though a bit far from the main hotels, this hot favorite since 1988 is our choice for Aurangabad’s best eating experience. It’s greatly enhanced by wonderful service and welcoming management. You can spend ages pondering the extensive menu, or you can ask the manager, Mr. Hussain, for his choices. Okra (bhindi) is a house specialty. The fenugreek-leaves-flavored kasturi kebab (chicken) and kabuli tandoori chicken (marinated in creamy yogurt and flavored with ginger, garlic, turmeric, and white pepper) are both outstanding. If you’re looking for a mild curry that’s been delicately prepared to bring out the most subtle flavors, ask for chicken korma—the sauce is made from cashew nuts, poppy seeds, sweet-melon seeds, and white sesame seeds. Shyam Chambers, Station Rd. & 0240/232-8481. Main courses Rs 45–Rs 360 ($1–$8.15). MC, V. Daily 11am–4pm and 6:30pm–last order.

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5 Goa: Party in Paradise N

irvana for dropouts, flower children, and New Age travelers since the late 1960s, Goa’s hippie invasion peaked in the ’70s, when Anjuna Beach became a rocking venue for party demons and naturalists who would sell their last piece of clothing at the local flea market for just enough cash to buy more dope and extend their stay. For many, Goa still conjures up images of all-night parties and tripping hippies sauntering along sunsoaked beaches. But there is more to this tiny western state than sea and sand, hippies and hedonists. A rich amalgam of Portuguese and Indian influences, its history alone has ensured that its persona is unlike any other in India. Arriving in 1498, the Portuguese stayed for almost 500 years (kicked out, finally, in 1961— the last Europeans to withdraw from the subcontinent), leaving an indelible impression on the local population and landscape. Goans still take a siesta every afternoon; many are Catholic, and you’ll meet Portuguese-speaking Mirandas, D’Souzas, and Braganzas, their ancestors renamed by the colonial priests who converted them, often by force. Garden Hindu shrines stand cheek-by-jowl with holy crosses, and the local vindaloo (curry) is made with pork. Dotted among the palm groves and rice fields are dainty villas bearing European coats of arms and imposing mansions with wrought-iron gates—built not only for European gentry but for the Brahmins who, by converting, earned the right to own land.

Over the past 8 years Goa has become more hip than hippie, with well-heeled Indians frequenting the new rash of flashy international-style restaurants and design-conscious furniture and lifestyle stores at which they shop in order to adorn their ostentatious Goa mansions. Joining them every winter are the whiteskinned package tourists, come to indulge in the rather commercialized trance culture, and Indian youngsters who cruise from beach to beach, legs wrapped around cheap motorbikes and credit cards tucked into their Diesel jeans. Goa is very much “India Light,” a cosmopolitan tourist-oriented place of fivestar resorts and boutique guest houses, and in many ways this is the perfect introduction to a country that, elsewhere, can be very challenging indeed. Of course, when the crowds arrive, particularly over New Year’s, Goa’s beaches and markets are anything but tranquil. Sun beds and shacks line the most commercial beaches, and hawkers haggle ceaselessly with droves of fresh-off-the-charter-plane Europeans here to sample paradise at bargain prices while Mumbai and Bangalore puppies crowd the shoreline bars and restaurants. If it’s action you’re after, you will run into endless opportunities for allnight partying and reckless abandon, but Goa’s true pleasures are found away from the crowds, on the more remote beaches to the far north and south, on the semiprivate beaches adjoining expensive luxury resorts, or in the charming

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Mayhem in Paradise

Every year from December 23 to January 7, tens of thousands of world tourists, both domestic and foreign, descend on Goa, so if you plan to spend Christmas or New Year’s here, expect to negotiate crowds everywhere, particularly along the bursting-to-the-seams Baga–Calangute stretch. You can avoid the crowds to some extent by confining yourself to your hotel or guesthouse, but all the popular bars and restaurants will be filled to capacity, with queues so long they can cause traffic jams. Besides, everything—particularly accommodations—will be extremely expensive at this time. Almost every hotel charges a separate endof-year tariff, most with an accompanying surcharge for the in-house “festive party” (even if you don’t plan to attend). If loud and raucous merriment is not your style, avoid Goa during this time; your money will go twice the distance here once the revelers have departed.

guesthouses located farther inland. Come world have done. However you decide to for at least 3 days, and you may end up play it, live the local motto—“Sossegade”: staying for a lifetime—as a number of “Take it easy.” very content expats from around the

1 Arrival & Orientation ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE By Air The state capital is Panjim (also called Panaji), which is pretty much centrally located; Dabolim Airport lies 29km (18 miles) south. Many travelers to Goa arrive on charter flights as part of ever-popular package deals direct from the U.K. Or you can fly in from Mumbai (nine flights per day) or Delhi (two flights per day), as well as from Kolkata, Chennai, Cochin, Hyderabad, Bangalore, and Ahmedabad. The flight from Mumbai is a mere 40 minutes, and the best service is offered by Jet Airways (& 022/5698-6111 in Mumbai). A helpful government tourist desk (& 0832/251-2644) is in the baggage-claim hall. If you have a hotel or resort reservation, a courtesy bus or taxi will probably be waiting for you. If not, use a prepaid taxi (see chapter 2) or bargain directly with a driver; the trip to Panjim should cost Rs 400 to Rs 500 ($9.10–$11). As is the case everywhere, prebook your accommodations, and don’t fall for a tout’s offer of “discount” lodgings. By Train Goa’s three main jumping-off points are Thivim in the north (20km/12 miles inland from Vagator), Karmali (12km/71⁄2 miles from Panjim), and Madgaon in the south (also known as Margao). If you’re going straight to Palolem in the far south (almost on the border with Karnataka, where the fabulous Om Beach is) on a train bound/originating farther south, jump off at Canacona. Several trains travel daily from Mumbai to Goa along the Konkan Railway; most of these take a good 10 to 13 hours, so it’s best to book the overnight Konkan Kanya Express, which leaves Mumbai at 11pm and gets into Madgaon at 12:30pm. For a slightly quicker option, you’ll need to get up early for the 5:30am Mumbai-Madgaon Jan Shatabdi (from Dadar Station; Thurs–Tues) that reaches Madgaon by 4pm. If you’re traveling from the south, catch the 11am Matsyaganda Express from Mangalore to Madgaon (61⁄2 hr.); the trip offers mesmerizing views along the Konkan coast.

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Note that it’s worthwhile to book your train reservation in your home country, especially if you plan on moving to Goa soon after your arrival in India or in peak season when trains between Mumbai and Goa are often fully booked. By Bus If you want to travel to Goa but all trains and flights are full, or if you want to save on airfare, your next-best option is a bus from Mumbai, Pune, Hyderabad, Bangalore, or Mangalore. Numerous overnight buses leave from Mumbai (near Metro Cinema–Fashion St.) every day at 7pm; try to book an air-conditioned bus. Preferably, this should be a sleeper, not advisable if you are traveling alone, as you will sleep beside a stranger; in this case, buy two tickets for Rs 800 to Rs 1,000 ($11–$23). Or you can opt for a semi-sleeper or “slumberette,” a comfy 135-degree reclining seat for Rs 500 to Rs 800 ($11–$18), depending on the season and quality of the bus. Some companies provide blankets and bottled water. Paulo Travels (Mumbai: & 022/ 2643-3023 or -6764; Goa: & 0832/243-8531 through -8537) is a reliable private operator; all bookings are made at the small ticket booths near St. Xavier’s College, Mumbai. If you are booking through other agents, make sure you ask for a Volvo bus (better suspension, more spacious seating) and that you get a confirmed ticket with your seat number. For the north Goa beaches, jump off at Mapusa; for the south, at Panjim. Tip: A single woman can request to have another woman seated beside her, though this may not always happen. Seats in the first few rows have more legroom. VISITOR INFORMATION For general information on the state, visit the Government of Goa Department of Tourism office in Panjim (Patto Tourist Home; & 0832/243-8750 through -8752; http://goatourism.nic.in; Mon–Fri 9:30am–1pm and 2–5:45pm). Branch offices are in Mapusa (in the shopping complex next to Mapusa Residency; & 0832/226-2390) and Margao (Margao Residency; & 0832/ 271-5204). There’s also an information counter at the Konkan Railway Station in Madgaon (& 0832/270-2298). GETTING AROUND Note that it shouldn’t take much longer than 4 hours to cruise the entire coastline, so everything in this chapter is within easy reach. By Motorbike Motorbikes are trés cool in Goa, and you’ll encounter an endless barrage of young backpackers and old hippies zipping around Goa’s roads on two-wheelers—sans helmets. At press time there was some talk of introducing a law that would make wearing helmets mandatory, so check if this has been enforced (certainly it’s worth wearing one on the main highways and in the main cities). Renting a bike gives you absolute freedom to move from beach to beach, village shack to all-night party. Have your international two-wheeler driver’s license handy (just in case; you’ll rarely be asked for a license, and most visitors simply pay off the authorities if caught), and check the bike thoroughly before handing over any cash; bank on paying around Rs 300 ($6.80) a day (or Rs 200/$4.55 for gearless bikes—which are easy to use even if you’ve never ridden them before). Note that at these prices, these two-wheelers don’t come with insurance, so if you seriously damage one, you must pay for the repairs. You can find motorbikes practically everywhere; in Panjim, try across the road from the post office. Riding on the back of someone else’s motorbike is another popular way to get around; this can be both invigorating and terrifying. When someone stops to ask if you need a lift (and they will), negotiate a price in advance. And, if you don’t like the pace or style of driving, say something immediately. By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Negotiate privately with one of the many taxi drivers found around tourist areas—including those near your hotel entranceway (you can get

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Tira col

Tiracol

20 mi

MAHARASHTRA

20 km

PERNEM KARNATAKA

Pernem pora Cha

Arambol Aswem Morjim

BICHOLIM

Siolim

BARDEZ

Chapora Vagator Anjuna

Bicholim

SATARI

Mapusa Baga

Sanquelim Valpoi

Calangute

Candolim

Sinquerim

Old Goa

Panjim

Fort Aguada

TISWADI Mardol

Dona Paula Mormugao

Vasco da Gama

Bogmalo

Dabolim Airport Pequeno Island

Tisk

BONDLA SANCTUARY

PONDA Ponda

MORMUGAO

Cansaulim

Colem

SANGUEM o Jorge Sáo Island

Betalbatim

Molem

Dudhsagar Falls

SALCETE Sanguem

Vacar Varca

RANG E

Quepem Cavelossim

YADR I

Mobor

SAH

Don Bosco

QUEPEM 17

Cabo da Rama

Malikarjun Agonda

Chaudi

Palolem Canacona

COTIGAO SANCTUARY

CANACONA

New Delhi New Delhi

BHAGWAN MAHAVEER SANCTUARY

Margao

Colva Benaulim

Arabian Sea

Tambdi Surlu

Talpona

Polem

MAHARASHTRA

Mumbai GOA (Bombay)

Bay of Bengal

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one through your hotel, of course, but at a five-star lodging the cost will almost double). Figure on spending Rs 600 to Rs 750 ($14–$17) for a 6-hour outing, but specify which locations you hope to cover, or agree to pay up to Rs 8 (15¢) per kilometer for a non-air-conditioned cab (80km minimum distance). Remember that if you need a one-way lift to a more remote region, you’ll be asked to pay for the return journey. If you plan to take a day trip to a far-off beach, you’re better off fixing a price for the day (Rs 1,800/$42 for a trip to Palolem from north Goa). Auto-rickshaws are considerably cheaper than taxis, but a great deal more uncomfortable. Dalesh is a reliable taxi driver (& 98221-02964) who can be booked for the whole day or for a pickup or drop-off (Rs 500–Rs 800/$11–$18 for an airport ride from Calangute). Note: All rates vary according to demand and season. By Car Goa is also perhaps the only place in India where you can hire self-drive cars (Rs 800–Rs 1,200/$18–$25 for the day for a basic model; souped-up open-air jeeps cost Rs 1,000–Rs 1,500/$23–$35) but, like many of the motorbike rental services, most of these outfits aren’t registered or licensed to commercially rent out vehicles. Consequently, you may not be properly insured—you hire at your own risk; if you have an accident, you pay for the repairs. For better, fully insured cars with or without a chauffeur, call Dominic of Velankini Car Rentals (& 0832/248-9047, 0832/ 309-0584, or 98221-01598). By Bus Buses ply their ways up and down the state, stopping in a rather chaotic fashion whenever someone needs to get on or off. If you’re in a hurry, try to catch an express bus; otherwise you could be in for an endless series of stop-starts. By Boat Andy of Marin Boat Trip (stationed at Reggie’s Café) will organize seagoing excursions anywhere in Goa. For trips to Terakol (Goa’s northernmost point), he charges Rs 900 to Rs 1,000 ($21–$23) each, including refreshments, for a minimum of seven passengers. Goan Bananas (& 0832/227-6362 or -6739, at Calangute Beach) organizes dolphin-spotting trips as well as jet-skiing and parasailing. At Kenilworth Beach Resort in south Goa, Sea Adventure (Utorda; & 98221-61712) organizes bird-watching and a backwater cruise that takes in basking river crocodiles. The operation runs from late October until the end of April. For a more comfortable and luxurious cruise, book a trip on the 27-seater yacht Solita (immortalized in a song by India’s most famous Goan rock musician, Remo). Choose among an early-morning dolphin-spotting cruise on the sea or an evening sunset cruise on the Mapusa and Mandovi rivers (Rs 1,000/$23 plus taxes). You can charter the boat (Rs 7,500/$171 per hour for 2-hr. minimum) for a romantic dinner cruise or party (Odyssey Tours; & 0832/227-7124 or 98221-80826; www.traveljadoo.com).

TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS The Goa Tourism Development Corporation (Trionara Apartments, Dr. Alvares Costa Rd., Panjim; & 0832/222-6515, -4132, or -6728; www.goacom.com/goa tourism; daily 9:30am–5:30pm) has full-day tours of the north and the south aimed primarily at domestic tourists. For personalized adventure expeditions to any number of Goan destinations, try Kennedy’s Adventure Tours and Travels (& 0832/2276493, -9381, -5076, or 98-2327-6520; [emailprotected]). MGM International Travels has offices in both Panjim (Navelcar Trade Centre, opposite Azad Maidan; & 0832/222-5150) and Calangute (Simplex Chambers, Umtavaddo; & 0832/227-6073). Other reliable travel agents include Trade Wings (1st floor, Naik Building, opposite Don Bosco School, Panjim; & 0832/243-2430).

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SCUBA DIVING Barracuda Diving India (Goa Marriott Resort, Miramar, Panaji; & 0832/246-3333, ext. 6807, or 98221-82402; fax 0832/246-3300; www. barracudadiving.com; [emailprotected]) is a PADI-recognized dive center where you can rent equipment or take diving courses and get certified (from beginner to advanced levels). Venkatesh Charloo and Karen Gregory, both master diver-trainers, offer dive safaris south, in Karnataka, where visibility can reach up to 30m (100 ft.). Bookings can also be made through Atlantis Water Sports (see below). WATERSPORTS Most of the upmarket resorts offer a range of watersports facilities. Goa’s best-established watersports company is Atlantis Water Sports (& 0832/ 309-2909 or 98900-47272). Jet-skiing, parasailing, windsurfing, wakeboarding, scuba diving, and other ocean-going pastimes are available from a makeshift structure roughly halfway along the beach between Baga and Aguada (at the foot of Vila Goesa Rd., Cobra Vaddo, Calangute). Just outside the Taj Holiday Village is Thunderwave, a higher-priced watersports outfit that provides jet-skis and cruises for Taj guests, but is also open to the public.

FAST FACTS: Goa Airlines Even the smallest hotels are able to make air travel arrangements for you, and usually charge a small fee to process tickets, which saves you the hassle of having to travel all the way to Panjim. Jet Airways, the best domestic airline, is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm (Patto Plaza, near the Patto Tourist Hotel and the bus stand, Panjim; & 0832/243-8792 or -7497). Ambulance Dial & 102, or you can call the Panjim City Round Table (Panjim; & 0832/222-7997). In Margao, call the local Ambulance Trust (& 0832/273 1759). In Mapusa, call & 0832/226-5119. American Express Call American Express in Panjim (& 0832/222-2945 or 0832/ 222-8557). Area Code The area code for Goa is & 0832. ATMs Ask your hotel for the nearest ATM with credit card facilities. In Panjim. There’s an ICICI ATM at the Sindur Business Centre on Swami Vivekananda Road. In Candolim there’s an HDFC machine at Regal Villa (opposite SBI), and a UTI machine in the Dona Alcina Estate (also at the Brangaza Complex, opposite the Kadamba bus depot in Mapusa). Banks & Currency Exchange For the best rates, you can exchange cash and traveler’s checks at Thomas Cook in Panjim (8 Alcon Chambers, D. B. Marg; & 0832/222-1312; Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm; in winter, also Sun 10am–5pm). Another location is between Baga and Calangute, at the State Bank of India, in the Hotel Ofrill Building (& 0832/227-5693). Car Rentals Try Sita World Travel (101 Rizvi Chamber, Caetano Albuquerque Rd., Panjim; & 0832/222-0476, -0477, -3134, -6477, or 0832/242-3552). Drugstores Go to Farmacia Salcete in Panjim (18th June Rd.; & 0832/222-5959; Mon–Sat 9am–7:30pm). Walson and Walson Chemist can be found on Calangute (& 0832/227-6366; daily 8:30am–1:30pm and 3:30–9:30pm).

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Emergencies In Panjim, dial & 102 for an ambulance, and & 101 in case of fire. See “Police,” below. Hospital Dr. Bhandari Hospital (& 0832/222-4966 or -5602) is in Panjim’s Fontainhas area. For hospital emergencies in Margao, call Margao Hospital (& 0832/270-5664). In Mapusa, Vrindavan Hospital (& 0832/225-0022 or 0832/ 225-0033) is reputed to be the best. Internet Access High numbers of backpackers mean plenty of Internet facilities (Rs 25–Rs 80/55¢–$1.80 per hour), particularly in tourist areas. Wherever you are, ask or look out for Sify i way cybercafes (see “Fast Facts: India” in chapter 2). You can also try Reliance Webworld in Mapusa (& 0832/309-5011 or -5010). Police Dial & 100. Panjim Police Headquarters (& 0832/242-8400 or -3400) is on Malaca Road, at the western edge of Azad Maidan. Post Office Panjim’s General Post Office is at Patto Bridge and is open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm.

GOA’S BEST BEACHES Goa’s reputation for having some of the world’s best beaches is well-deserved, but inevitable commercialization has taken its toll, with the infamous Baga-to-Calangute area (north of Panjim) now part of a tourist-infested strip of sun loungers, backed by beach shacks serving beer, cocktails, and fresh seafood—the sort of packaged beach experience best avoided. A little north of Baga, Anjuna comes alive with parties and trance music during the winter, when full-moon festivals get the crowds howling. It also has a fabulous Wednesday market. Just north of Anjuna is lovely Vagator , with Chapora Fort overlooked by stark red cliffs. But the real northern paradise starts at Asvem , which has somehow managed to remain off the beaten tourist road. A little north of Asvem, Arambol , seductively far away from the package-tour masses, is one of the last refuges of hard-core hippies. Though there are no private beaches in Goa, the southern beaches generally become the private domain of the fivestar resorts fronting them, because of the sheer sizes of property they occupy. In the far south, gorgeous Palolem has just one large resort close by (the InterContinental Grand, a few kilometers south in Cancona), and gets our vote for the best beach in Goa: Although it’s become increasingly popular in the high season and is home to a sizable hippie community, it has yet to be overwhelmed by day-trippers. Just 7km (4 miles) north of Palolem, Agonda is even more isolated and peaceful, while to the south, Galgibaga is another remote haven with eucalyptus trees and empty stretches of sand. And then, of course, there’s Om Beach, just over the border, an hour into neighboring state of Karnataka, considered by many to be the best beach in India and one of the most beautiful in the world. However, the hippies have zeroed in on it, so don’t expect seclusion.

2 Panjim (Panaji) & Old Goa Located at the mouth of the Mandovi River, the state capital of Panjim (moved here from Old Goa in 1759) is a breezy, laid-back town that lends itself to easy exploration. The chief attraction is the wonderful colonial Portuguese architecture, particularly in the eastern neighborhoods of Fontainhas and Sao Tome, where the atmospheric cobbled

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streets are lined with old mansions and churches dating as far back as the mid-1700s— look for Fontainhas’s Chapel of St. Sebastian, where the crucifix from Old Goa’s “Palace of the Inquisition” is now kept. The figure of Christ on the crucifix here is unusual, with head upright and eyes wide open, unlike the usual figures who feature lowered head and eyes. Dominating Panjim’s town center is the imposing Church of the Immaculate Conception, built in the Portuguese baroque style in 1541. Nearer the water’s edge is the Secretariat; an old palace of Adil Shah of Bijapur, this became the Portuguese viceroy’s residence when the colonial administration moved here. Wandering around Panjim on foot shouldn’t take more than a few hours. If you’re pushed for time, skip the walk and hop onto an auto-rickshaw or on the back of a bike to Old Goa (30 min. from Panjim), reviewed in detail below. From Old Goa, it’s a short trip (and a great contrast) to view the popular Hindu temples that lie north of the dull town of Ponda, on National Highway 4. Very few Hindu temples dating back earlier than the 19th century still exist. (Affronted by the Hindus’ “pagan” practices, the Portuguese tore them down.) Sri Mangeshi Temple was built specifically as a refuge for icons of deities smuggled from the coast during the violent years of the 16th-century Inquisition. A path lined with palm trees leads to a colorful entranceway, behind which the tiled, steep-roofed temple exemplifies a fusion of Hindu and Christian architectural styles, hardly surprising considering that it was constructed by Goan craftsmen weaned on 200 years of Portuguese church-building. Walking distance from here (15 min. south) is the slightly less commercial (no temple “guides”) Sri Mahalsa Temple.

EXPLORING OLD GOA ON FOOT The once-bustling Goan capital is said to have been the richest and most splendid city in Asia during the late 16th and early 17th centuries, before a spate of cholera and malaria epidemics forced a move in 1759. Today, this World Heritage Site is tepid testament to the splendor it once enjoyed. The tranquillity behind this well-preserved tourist site (barring the grubby stands selling refreshments and tacky souvenirs) belies the fact that it was built on plunder and forced conversions, though you’ll see little evidence (like the basalt architraves) of the mass destruction of the Hindu temples initiated by fervent colonialists. The entire area can easily be explored on foot because the most interesting buildings are clustered together. To the northwest is the Arch of the Viceroys, built in 1597 in commemoration of the arrival of Vasco da Gama in India. Nearby, the Corinthianstyled Church of St. Cajetan (1651) was built by Italian friars of the Theatine order,

Moments

Carnival!

Each year in February, during the festivities leading up to Lent, the people of Goa get down for 3 days and nights of hedonistic revelry as King Momo commands them to party hard. Goa’s most famous festival—a Latin-inspired extravaganza of drinking and dancing—traces its roots to ancient Roman and Grecian ritual feasts. Cities and towns come under the spell of colorful parades, dances, floats, balls, and bands, concluding with the red-and-black dance at Panjim’s Club National.

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Hindu Christians In 1623 the pope agreed to tolerate converted Brahmin Catholics, who were then allowed to wear the marks of their Hindu caste. This extraordinary concession played its part in allowing Goa to ultimately adopt a practice of syncretism that embraced Hindus and Christians alike, though it drew its fair share of criticism from the more narrow-minded: The British adventurer Sir Richard Burton once noted that the “good” Hindus converted to Catholicism by the Portuguese were simply “bad” Christians.

who modeled it after St. Peter’s in Rome. Under the church is a crypt in which embalmed Portuguese governors were kept before being shipped back to Lisbon—in 1992, three forgotten cadavers were removed. St. Cajetan’s is a short walk down the lane from Adil Shah’s Gate, a simple lintel supported by two black basalt columns. Southwest of St. Cajetan’s are the highlights of Old Goa: splendid Sé Cathedral , which took nearly 80 years to build and is said to be larger than any church in Portugal; and the Basilica of Bom Jesus (Cathedral of the Good Jesus) . The so-called Miraculous Cross, housed in a box in a chapel behind a decorative screen, was brought here from a Goan village after a vision of Christ was seen on it—apparently a single touch (there is a hole in the glass for just this purpose) will cure the sick. The surviving tower of the Sé’s whitewashed Tuscan exterior houses the Golden Bell, whose tolling indicated commencement of the auto da fés, brutal public spectacles in which suspected heretics were tortured and burnt at the stake. Nearby, the Convent and Church of St. Francis of Assisi (now an unimpressive archaeological museum) has a floor of gravestones and coats of arms; note that the images of Mary and Christ are darker-skinned than usual. Opposite the Sé, the Basilica of Bom was built between 1594 and 1605 as a resting place for the remains of the patron saint of Goa, Francis Xavier (one of the original seven founders of the Jesuit order and responsible for most of the 16th-c. conversions). The withered body of the venerated saint lies in a silver casket to the right of the altar, his corpse surprisingly well-preserved (although one arm is on display in Rome and a missing toe is believed to have been bitten off in 1634 by an overzealous devotee looking to take home her very own relic, during the first exposition of the body—now a decennial event). Up the hill from the Basilica are the ruins of the Church of St. Augustine; below is the Church and Convent of Santa Monica and Chapel of the Weeping Cross, where a miraculous image of the crucified Christ is said to have once regularly bled, spoken, and opened its eyes. Basilica de Bom Jesus: Mon–Sat 6am–6:30pm. Sé Cathedral: daily 7:30am–6pm. Archaeological Museum: daily 9am–12.30pm and 3–6.30pm; admission Rs 5 (10¢). Convent and Church of St. Francis of Assisi: Mon–Sat 7:30am–6:30pm. Church of St. Cajetan: daily 9am–5:30pm.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE In the unlikely event that you will stay this close to the capital, two good options are reviewed below: The Marriott is an upmarket resort situated on the outskirts of the city (avoid Cidade de Goa, which is looking tired and is overpriced), while Panjim Pousada, Panjim Inn, and Panjim People’s, situated in the heart of the Fontainhas neighborhood, have more character; Pousada is also very affordable.

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Panjim is filled with shabby-looking “pure veg” udipi eating halls. If you’re in the mood for an Indian snack or a quick cheap dish, aren’t afraid to get your hands dirty, and feel like hanging with the locals, try one out; Vihar (31 Janeiro Rd.; & 0832/ 222-5744) is a good option. Opposite the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, George Restaurant is convenient; if a really spicy chorizo-style sausage appeals to you, order Goan sausage. For more atmosphere, make a reservation at Luiz D’Souza’s Hospedaria Venite (31st January Rd., Fontainhas; & 0832/242-5537), a tiny upstairs restaurant in a 200-year-old building where you can sit on the balcony and order wonderful Goan specialties (or try the delicious shrimp salsa and stuffed crab). Catering to a steady stream of tourists who are told that it’s the best restaurant in town for North Indian cuisine, Delhi Darbar (M.G. Rd.; & 0832/222-2544; 11am–4pm and 7–11pm) turns a heavy trade, but it’s an unexciting experience. Instead, head across the Mandovi Bridge to Povorim where O’Coquiero’s (near Water Tank; & 0832/2417271) has been churning out traditional Goan food for decades (try the squid masala or chicken cafreal). For more on Goan food, see “The Unique Flavors of Goa,” below. Down the road from the Goa Marriott Resort (which, incidentally, has a marvelous seafood restaurant, Simply Fish, an outdoor venue overlooking the bay) is Mum’s Kitchen (Martin’s Building, D. B. Marg, Miramar; & 98221-75559 or 3100873; daily noon–midnight). It has a laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere and does wonderful crab xec-xec (cooked in thick, spicy coconut gravy) and pomfret recheado (fish stuffed with hot spices and pan-fried). The owner, Rony Martins, not only invites you to examine his kitchen for standards of hygiene and his fish for freshness, he is on a mission to revive authentic Goan cuisine. He sources and adopts old “grandma” recipes and has started “A Cry of Goa”: an exercise to save Goan cuisine, in which locals are invited to eat at his restaurant free or at nominal cost and provide constructive criticism/suggestions for improvement. To sample traditional Goan sweets while wandering Fontainhas, pop into Confeitaria 31 de Janueiro, one of the oldest bakeries in the state (31 Janeiro Rd.; & 0832/222-5791). Goa Marriott Resort With its gorgeous rim-flow pool (and swim-up bar) situated as near as possible to the edge of riverside Miramar Beach, this stylish business hotel claims to have the only PADI-recognized diving center on the subcontinent. This is definitely the capital’s smartest hotel, with great facilities and within convenient walking distance of Panjim. Guest rooms are tastefully furnished, if a little cramped. Each one has its own tiny balcony; however, be sure to book a sea-facing executive room. Airport transfers are included. Miramar, Goa 403 001. & 0832/246-3333. Fax 0832/246-3300. www.marriott.com. 165 units. Oct 15–Mar 31, excluding Dec 23–Jan 6: $210 executive garden-view double, $210 executive bay-view double, $190 bay-view double, $180 garden-view double; $300–$400 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; dance club; tennis courts; health club (including Ayurveda); squash; table tennis; watersports; dive center; tours and travel desk; vehicle rental with chauffeur and taxi hire; boutique; salon; room service; babysitting; laundry; house doctor; on-site astrologer. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer.

Panjim Inn, Panjim Pousada, and Panjim People’s Situated in Panjim’s historic Fontainhas district, these are the only authentically Goan guesthouses in Panjim. Retired engineer Ajit Sukhija and his son Jack provide warm Goan hospitality, regaling you with local history while proudly pointing out family photographs. The best option is the recently opened Panjim People’s, a four-room heritage hotel (until

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The Unique Flavors of Goa If you don’t know your xacuti from your baboti, here’s a short guide: Chicken cafreal is chicken marinated in green herb and garlic marinade and then fried. Vindaloo is a curry usually made with pork and marinated in vinegar, garlic, chilies, and assorted spices. Prawn Balchao is a shrimp preserve made with spices and coconut feni. Ambot-tik is a hot curry soured with kokum berries and usually made with baby shark. The state’s favorite fish, kingfish (isvon) recheado, is stuffed with chilies and spices blended in vinegar. Xacuti is a coconutbased masala; baboti is a sweet and spicy ground-beef dish. Sorpote—not for the fainthearted—is traditionally a spicy concoction of pork, offal, feni, vinegar, red chilies, and spices. Bebinca is the traditional layered dessert made with lots of eggs and coconut milk. Goa is famous for its cashew nuts available in many forms; get the roasted salted variety (great with any drink) from Zantye’s or Kajuwala in Panjim. Speaking of which, feni is the deceptively light alcoholic spirit distilled from the cashew fruit (or coconut); try it, but be wary.

recently a prominent local school) with spacious rooms and modern bathrooms; ask for the room in which Ajit’s mother’s lovely rosewood four-poster bed is the centerpiece. There’s nothing particularly luxurious about the restored colonial-era Hindu Pousada, but it offers a taste of Panjim’s 19th-century upper-class lifestyle (along with hot water). The simple rooms are furnished with antiques (including four-poster beds) arranged around an empty courtyard. Windows and balconies look onto the back streets and backyards of Panjim’s old “Latin Quarter.” The Pousada’s older Catholic sister, Panjim Inn, is located on an old family property dating back to 1880; as with the Pousada, rooms vary in size and price, so it’s best to look around before deciding. You can also browse the latest offering, Gallery Geetanjali, which showcases up-andcoming artists. Panjim Inn reception: E-212, 31st January/31 Janeiro Rd., Fontainhas. & 0832/222-8136 or -6523. Fax 0832/2228136 or -6523. 9 units. Rs 810–Rs 2,880 ($18.25–$66) double. Panjim Pousada, House no. 156, Circle no. 5, Cunha Gonsalves Rd., Fontainhas. www.panjiminn.com. [emailprotected]. 9 units. Rs 720–Rs 1,710 ($16–$40) double. Rs 270–Rs 360 ($6.15–$8.15) A/C charge; Rs 60–Rs 450 ($1.35–$10) extra person. Panjim People’s (opposite Panjim Inn): 4 units. Rs 3,000–Rs 5,850 ($68–$133) double. Rs 450–Rs 900 ($10–$21) extra person. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; foreign exchange; room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C in all but 4 units.

3 North of Panjim Goa’s reputation as a hangout for hippies during the ’60s and ’70s was made on the northern beaches of Calangute, Baga, and Anjuna. Along with the relaxed lifestyle and good times came busloads of Indian men keen to observe free-spirited foreigners and, finally, a crackdown by local government. This forced fun-loving hippies to head to more remote tracts of coastline, leaving the door open for backpackers and package tourists. Thus were the north’s most famous beaches transformed into tanning lots for the masses—even Anjuna has become an Ibiza-like experience—and today no cardcarrying hippie would deign to set foot on the beach that stretches between Calangute and Baga (defined by resort-centered Sinquerim in the south to Vagator in the north). That said, you can’t deny the beauty of the beaches (in south Vagator, Ozran Beach is peaceful and beautiful, with relaxed swimming in a bay at its southernmost

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end)—certainly this is where you’ll want to be if you’re here to party during the season. Baga is the smaller, slightly less-developed area of activity. Beach shacks like Britto’s (Baga) and Fisherman’s Paradise (Calangute) are crowded with beer-quaffing visitors recovering from the previous night’s adventure at the legendary bar-cumnightclub, Tito’s. (Be warned that the “special lassis” served at some Goan beach shacks will dramatically increase your amusement at the cows sunbathing alongside the tourists on Baga Beach.) For a sense of Goa’s hippie origins, head for Arambol, Goa’s most northerly beach (36km/22 miles northwest of Mapusa). It also offers better bodysurfing—the water’s a little more turbulent. It draws quite a crowd during the season (you arrive through a lane crammed with stalls selling CDs and T-shirts, and laid-back restaurants playing competing brands of music), but the setting is nevertheless lovely, with a hill looming over a small freshwater lake fed by a spring. The farther north you walk, the more solitude you enjoy. Besides looking at beautiful bodies, you can spend hours watching the surf glide. Better still, head a little farther south from Arambol for Asvem Beach. For a bite to eat, the best shack (at the south end of Asvem) is white-curtained La Plage (& 98221-21712), run by the same French trio who own Le Restaurant Français (see review later in this chapter). Feast on great steak or fish barbecued in a banana leaf, or just sip a cool mint lassi (daily 8.30am–sunset; closed May to mid-Nov). Just south of Asvem is the dark sand beach of Morjim, more popular with the Olive Ridley turtles that have been coming here for centuries than with either package tourists or hippies.

WHERE TO STAY Naturally, Goa offers a wide range of accommodations, but the luxury resorts tend to offer the best proximity to secluded beaches. If you’re design-conscious and keen on a “non-hotel” experience, Goa’s best options by far are Nilaya Hermitage and Pousada Tauma, both reviewed below, or—if you’re looking for something more mid-range— Presa di Goa, also reviewed below. If the beach is not a priority, we recommend these options for their tranquil surroundings. Another good choice is the two suites (Rs 1,000–Rs 2,000/$23–$46) at Hotel Bougainvillea (& 0832/227-3270 or -3271) at Anjuna (closed May–Oct); book the one with its own garden. Inherited by Betina Faria, it was built by her grandfather and is consequently also known as Grandpa’s Inn. The small accommodations are quiet and cool; there’s a lovely garden, swimming

Shopping in the Global Village Markets Anjuna is the site of Goa’s wonderful Wednesday market , where a nonstop trance soundtrack sets the scene, and a thousand stalls sell everything from futuristic rave gear to hammocks that you can string up between two palm trees on the nearby beach. It’s a wonderful place to meet people from all over the world as well as Rajasthanis, Gujaratis, Tibetans—even droughtimpoverished Karnataka farmers with “fortune-telling” cows. It’s a bit like London’s Camden, but everyone’s tanned and the weather’s almost always wonderful. When the crowd gets too much, pull up a chair at Mango Shade, an outdoor family-run restaurant at the edge of the market. Come the weekend, Goa’s global residents head for Ingo’s Saturday Night Bazaar, where most of the spending seems to involve liquor and food. Scores of happy-go-lucky revelers dance and cruise, exchanging plans for the remainder of the evening.

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pool, and old pool table. At Goa’s very northernmost point is the rather remote enclave of Tiracol, where the owners of Nilaya Hermitage have restored seven rooms in their characteristic Euro-chic style. Although the views from Hotel Tiracol Fort (Querim, Pernem; & 02366/22-7631; [emailprotected]; Rs 3,480/$80 standard, Rs 5,480/$125 suite) are outstanding and the food superb, you may find life a little dull (no pool, and the beach is a 3-min. ferry away) and isolated (90 min. from Baga). However, it’s hard to beat if you want to really get away from it all. Casa Britona Far away from the crowds, this 17th-century Customs warehouse, located on the riverside in the fishing village of Charmanos, has been converted by owner Sheela Dhody and architect Dean D’Cruz (talk about a proven track record!) into a colonial-style boutique hotel. With just eight individually furnished rooms, you are ensured privacy, though sound travels fairly easily between rooms. Ask for a room on the first floor; these share a long veranda (with planter’s chairs) overlooking the pool. Almost 40 minutes from the shore, this may not be the ideal location for beachlovers, but you are assured of peace, excellent service from managers Sunny and Poppy, and a multitude of chirping birds as backdrop while you unwind on the lounge deck by the pool or on the wooden boardwalk on the Mandovi River. On the boardwalk are tables where you can be served a lovely dinner by candlelight. Charmanos, Badem, Salvador-do-Mundo, Bardez. & 0832/241-0962 or 98505-57665. Fax 0832/241-3389. www. [emailprotected]. 8 units. Apr 1–Sept 30, Octt 1–Nov 30, Dec 1–Dec 22, Dec 23–Jan 3, Jan 4–Jan 15, Jan 16–Jan 30, Feb 1–March 31: Rs 4,000/6,000/8,000/20,000/12,000/8,000/6000 ($91/$137/$182/ $460/$274/$182/$137). Rates include breakfast and 2 laundry items. Taxes extra. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; fax and Internet; Ayurvedic treatment on request; complimentary airport transfers; car hire; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call; TV lounge. In room: A/C, hair dryer on request.

Fort Aguada Beach Resort & Hermitage Situated on the short peninsula upon which the Portuguese built their defensive Fortress of Aguada, this resort complex (comprising the Beach Resort, Hermitage, and Taj Holiday Village) has one of the most spectacular locations in all of Goa, with picture-postcard views of the beach, which stretches all the way to Baga, 8km (5 miles) away. Behind the main Beach Resort block are 42 cottages tucked almost invisibly among groves of lantana, cashew, and bougainvillea bush; these are the best places to stay at the Beach Resort. Alternatively, for absolute privacy (ideal for groups or families), consider one of the 15 top-end Hermitage cottages, built as a retreat for delegates during the 1983 meeting of the Commonwealth heads of government. The cottages are set among terraced gardens of exotic orchids, bougainvilleas, cashew trees, jasmine, and Krishna ficus. Each villa has a separate living room; a dining area; one, two, or three bedrooms; two bathrooms; a balcao (balcony); and a private garden. Interiors are luxurious and include all modern amenities; request a villa near Sunset Point, where cocktails are served while the sun descends over the Arabian Sea. It’s quite a stiff climb between the cottages and the hotel lobby (shared with the Beach Resort); courtesy vehicles are available for the short transfer. Also sharing the facilities offered by Fort Aguada Resort is Taj Holiday Village, fronted by Sinquerim Beach, with cottages and villas scattered among towering coconut trees and lush vegetation. Accommodations at this resort vary considerably, ranging from lavish sea-facing villas to less desirable suites in clustered or duplex cottages. Sinquerim, Bardez, Goa 403 519. & 0832/479123-136. Fax 0832/479200. www.tajhotels.com. fortaguada.goa@ tajhotels.com. 130 units. Sept 1–Dec 22, Jan 8–Aug 31, Dec 23–27, Dec 28–Jan 5: $180–$345 superior double, $205–$370 superior sea-view double, $215–$380 cottage garden-view double, $300–$465 suite. Hermitage villas (Sept 1–Dec 22, Jan 8–Aug 31, Dec 23–27, Dec 28–Jan 5): $275–$440 1-bedroom garden-view, $300–$465 1-bedroom sea-view, $500–$665 2-bedroom sea-view, $900–$1,065 3-bedroom sea-view. Taj Holiday Village doubles

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(Sept 1–Dec 22, Jan 8–Aug 31, Dec 23–27, Dec 28–Jan 5): $155–$380 standard, $805–$405 superior, $190–$415 cottage garden-view, $235–$460 villa, $215–$440 cottage sea-view villa, $225–$450 deluxe cottage sea-view. Ask about multiday or monsoon specials that may include transfers, food, and other conveniences. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; tennis; volleyball; squash; badminton; billiards; table tennis; adventure activities (trekking, rock climbing, rappelling); cycling; watersports; fitness center; spa; activity center; airport transfers; currency exchange; shop; salon; room service; babysitting; laundry; house doctor. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.

From the moment you arrive, you know you’re going to be very comfortable indeed. Ex-Parisian fashion stylist Claudia Derain and her Indian husband, Hari Ajwani, started this exclusive hillside resort when they fell in love with Goa during a vacation from Europe. Together with Goan architect Dean D’Cruz, they have created something out of Arabian Nights, with 12 cosmic-themed guest suites featuring vibrant colors, terrazzo flooring, and minimalist decor. Giant mosquito nets hang from a high-beamed ceilings, and sweeping archways lead off to open-plan bathrooms with views of the tropical garden. Like a chic harem, the split-level, saffron-colored “Music Room” is where guests unwind on sprawling mattresses, or meditate while soothing music plays beneath a high blue-domed ceiling. Overlooking paddy fields and coconut palm groves, the setting is romantic and classy, and despite being 6km (4 miles) from the nearest beach, Nilaya is one of Goa’s most perfect getaways, as its extensive celebrity guest list (Kate Moss, Peter Lindbergh, Phillippe Starck) indicates. Do also look into Hotel Tiracol Fort, their new venture overlooking the sea at Goa’s northernmost point.

Nilaya Hermitage

Arpora Bhati, Goa 403 518. & 0832/227-6793, -6794, -5187, or -5188. Fax 0832/227-6792. www.nilayahermitage. com. 12 units. 140€ ($175) double low season; 280€ ($348) double high season; 450€ ($560) double Dec 20–Jan 10. Rates include breakfast, dinner, and airport transfers. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; breakfast area; bar; cultural performances; pool; tennis court; Ayurvedic center; spa; travel assistance; room service; laundry; doctor-on-call; meditation room. In room: Some have A/C; TV and DVD players can be arranged.

If you’re looking for a little peace and quiet in a soul-stirFinds ring setting and don’t care too much for phones, air conditioners, bathtubs, and the like, then Isla (Loulou) Van Damme’s place is the ultimate refuge from the overwhelming frenzy of India. Most people come to Goa for the beaches, but Loulou’s guesthouse (also her home), with its stunning location on a hill on Corjuem Island, is where you come to put your feet up and relax, take a dip or yoga instruction, or contemplate life. With thoughtful landscaping and innate good taste, this charming Belgian woman, who provides simple, spacious rooms and Western-style set meals, has created an extraordinary getaway. Tariff includes three meals (and soft drinks)—and they are meals to die for, served on the large open colonnaded balcony that overlooks the valley. In Loulou’s inimitable style, there are no latches or locks on any of the doors—even the bathrooms are curtained off from the bedrooms with only thin cotton saris. Book one of the four rooms that open onto the large balcony (the rest overlook a central courtyard and garden). A music room is stacked with CDs and a small collection of nonfiction books. The pool is fabulously placed—on the edge of a hill. When you want to experience the beach, however, you’ll have to hire a taxi for the 30minute schlep there.

Panchavatti

Collomuddi, Corjuem Island, Aldonna, Bardez, Goa 403 508. & 98225-80632. [emailprotected]. 7 units. Doubles Rs 7,000 ($160); includes all meals. No credit cards. Closed except for yoga workshops June to mid-Oct. Amenities: Pool; music room; travel assistance; limited room service; yoga and meditation; Ayurvedic massage; babysitting; laundry. In room: Fan, electronic safe, iron and hair dryer on request.

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Pousada Tauma This is Goa’s top Ayurvedic retreat (a professional doctor presides over two excellent treatment rooms), and even though it’s located in the heart of a bustling tourist center (a 10-min. walk from popular Calangute Beach), it is sheltered from the high-season madness by thick, verdant vegetation. Neville Proenca, the charming owner-manager, takes a hands-on approach—a far cry from the packagementality tourism that’s swept through the state. Working with award-winning architect Dean D’Cruz (who also created Nilaya), it took Neville 31⁄2 years to create his retreat, fashioned entirely out of distinctively Goan laterite stone and set around a pool with cascading water. Each suite has its own balcony, overlooking either the garden or pool, and is themed with eccentric pieces (a cradle-turned-table; dentist chairturned-recliner). The stylish bathrooms are done in shattered tile mosaics. Pousada is the perfect getaway for artists and sophisticated socialites—filmmaker Mira Nair stayed in the Mountain Suite after filming Monsoon Wedding, while French designer Michéle Klein enjoys the deluxe Castle Suite, a fairy-tale tower with two living rooms off a single bedroom. In addition to its Goan menu, the excellent Copper Bowl Restaurant offers Ayurvedic meals. Porba Vaddo, Calangute, Bardez. & 0832/227-9061. Fax 0832/227-9064. www.pousada-tauma.com. 12 units. 130€–370€ ($162–$460) standard suite, 140€–420€ ($175–$525) superior suite, 170€–495€ ($210–$620) deluxe suite. Off season (June 1–Sept 30) 130€–170€ ($162–$210). Rates include breakfast. MC, V. No children. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; gym; Ayurvedic center; travel services, airport transfers; room service (until 11pm); Internet access. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer on request.

Presa di Goa Luxembourg native Edouard Spaeck and his adopted Goan Value son Judas (with wife, Cynthia) have turned this country house in Nagoa into a cool retreat, with friendly staff and good service. Unless you want a room close to the pool, book one of the value-for-money junior suites upstairs, which have their own balconies. Rooms, each named after a flower (we recommend Crossandra), are cozy and tastefully furnished with well-restored antiques that include four-poster beds, sofas, desks, and wardrobes or chests of drawers; the simple bathrooms contain bathtubs. Unfortunately, the closest beach is overrun Calangute, though frankly, it’s hard to believe this quiet place is just 10 minutes away (complimentary drop-offs 9–11am, pickups 4–7pm). If you want to head to a better beach, ask the hotel to arrange a taxi. The poolside restaurant, Turkish Grill, serves the only Turkish food in Goa. Recommended dishes are the vegetarian starters, followed by Anatolian beef stew cooked in red-wine sauce and served with a glass of ayran, the Turkish national drink (much like a salty lassi with herbs). 353/1 Arais Wado, Nagoa, Calangute, Bardez. & 0832/240-9067. Fax 0832/240-9070. www.presadigoa.com. [emailprotected]. 7 units. Apr 1–Dec 19, Dec 20–Jan 10, Jan 11–Mar 31: 30€/120€/66€ ($37/$148/$80) standard double; 50€/180€/98€ ($62/$224/$123) junior suite; 10€/20€/20€ ($12/$25/$25) extra bed. Children under 6 stay free in parent’s room. Children 6–12 pay 50% of extra bed rate. Half-board supplement 10€ ($12) per person, full-board supplement 17€ ($20) per person. 7€ ($8.70) A/C surcharge in summer. Rates include breakfast, taxes, airport transfers, service charges, and daily beach transfers. Ask about special rates for stays of 1 week or more. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; wine cellar; pool; Ayurvedic treatment on request; airport transfers; car and motorbike hire; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer on request.

Siolim House Leafy Siolim village (30 min. from the busy market town of Mapusa—delightfully far from the madding crowd) is where you will find the 300year-old former residence of a governor of Macau, which has been wonderfully restored by London-based investment banker Varun Sood (who, incidentally, designed the wrought-iron furniture mixed in with the antiques). Located around an open

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courtyard with a lovely blue-tiled fountain, spacious guest rooms feature whitewashed walls with hand-painted friezes, solid wood-beamed ceilings, decorative terra-cotta tile floors, mother-of-pearl windowpanes, and wonderful open-plan showers. Too bad the new manager is far from eager to expedite bookings, being obsessive about screening guests to get just the “right kind”—in essence, he lacks traditional Goan hospitality. Meals are prepared according to personal requests, so let your imagination wander. Waddi (opposite Wadi Chapel), Siolim, Bardez. & 0832/227-2138. Fax 0832/27-2941. www.siolimhouse.com. [emailprotected]. 7 units. 58€ ($73) standard suite, 72€ ($88) superior suite. Children under 12 say free in parent’s room but not always welcome. Rates include breakfast. 25% extra during peak season (Dec 19–Jan 10). MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; bicycles; airport transfers; car and motorbike hire; room service; Ayurvedic massage; babysitting; laundry; doctor-on-call; Internet access; TV lounge; library.

WHERE TO DINE Beach-shack dining is one of the essential Goa experiences—sipping feni while you feast on grilled tiger prawns or masala shark at unbelievable prices is a must. With at least 200 licensed seasonal shacks between Candolim and Baga, you certainly won’t go hungry, but with names like Lover’s Corner, Fawlty Towers, and Goan Waves, don’t expect culinary magic. And if you don’t like the look of the kitchen (ask where the dishes are washed), opt for Britto’s (at Calangute, reviewed below) or one of the following. Also at Calangute, Souza Lobo’s seafood enjoys a legendary reputation, and deservedly so. Reserve a table on the beachfront patio and order the tandoor kingfish and crab-stuffed papad, or the expensive but excellent grilled lobster or tiger prawns (& 0832/228-1234 or 0832/227-6463; reservations taken before 8pm; after that, wait in line). While in Baga, check out Casa Portuguesa (Baga Beach; & 0832/2277024; closed Mon and May–Oct), set in a charming old bungalow near the beach; the chicken cafreal is highly recommended. Or stop at Fiesta (7/35 Saunta Vaddo; & 0832/227-9894) just for the ambience (and decent pizzas but slow service) or a pick from their dessert menu. It’s perched on the sand dunes near Tito’s and run by Yellow and Maneck Contractor. A number of good restaurants can also be found along the stretch of road between Arpora Hill and Baga Creek, leading inland from Baga Beach. When Indian spices begin to take their toll, Lila Café (Baga River)—Goa’s number-one breakfast and lunch cafe (and apparently where Gregory Peck, David Niven, and Roger Moore hung out when filming Sea of Wolves)—is the perfect place (with views of paddy fields and coconut groves) to enjoy a decent breakfast: muesli and cereals, along with a selection of breads and croissants served with a variety of toppings. The fresh salads are also good, as is the catch of the day and the goulash with spaetzle. Famous J & A’s Little Italy (& 0832/228-2364 or 98231-39488; closed end of Apr to mid-Oct) is where Jamshed and Ayesha Madon serve fantastic pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and amazing organic salads in a great alfresco setting. During peak season there’s always a long wait (well worth it), so do make reservations. The regalo di mare (prawns and squid in a tomato vinaigrette dressing served with pesto crostini) and crespelle coi gamberi (crepes stuffed with seafood) are personal favorites. Or try the delicious steaks or the perfect al dente pastas tossed in heavenly sauces. Nearby, in an unusual orange house near the Baga River, is Moon Crest Restaurant (& 0832/2275790; closed May–Oct), a popular hangout where hip locals enjoy the casual atmosphere and the friendly vibe conjured up by the personable host, David Gonzalves. You can sit outside on long-backed wooden chairs, and on Thursday a live jazz band entertains you.

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Choices range from chateaubriand to chicken stuffed with crabmeat, but it’s the seafood that you simply must try; the crusty fried prawns are superb. After Eight EUROPEAN It’s definitely worth tracking down this difficultto-find restaurant (located between Calangute and Candolim near the Sarkar ice factory), for it’s one of Goa’s best. Owned by the gracious Leo D’Souza and superchef Soumyen Chakraborty (both spent years at Taj hotels), this alfresco restaurant is set on the lawns of Leo’s house. You can watch your meal being cooked in the glassfronted kitchen, and discuss how you liked it afterward, when the chef visits every table. Begin with the best Camembert soufflé east of France, and move on to the delectable “Ocean’s Fantasy” seafood platter, or the chargrilled filet steak with blue cheese sauce, both marvelous. Finally, whether you have room for dessert or not, we must recommend the chocolate mousse with orange Curaçao or the unbelievably light and delicious orange soufflé. Service is top-notch. 1/274B Gaura Vaddo, Calangute, Bardez. & 0832/227-9757 or 92261-88288. Reservations essential. Main courses Rs 230–Rs 895 ($5.25–$20). AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30–11:30pm.

THAI Each year since 1988, a different Thai chef is imported from Thailand to spruce up the menu and add a personal touch. Set back from the main road behind a 320-year-old banyan tree within the gardens of the Taj Holiday Village, this upmarket Asian eatery is proud of its herb garden, where essential Thai ingredients like lemon grass, kha (Siamese) ginger, pandanus leaves, kachai (a peppery ginger), and bird chilies are grown. Start with spicy talle tom yam seafood soup, a hotand-sour concoction of mushrooms, calamari, chili, and ginger (not for the fainthearted); or try the very tangy som tham papaya salad, which comes with a peanut sauce. This being Goa, the seafood creations are a must; try the tasty poo gathi—a curry-sauce infusion of river crabmeat that’s spicy yet flavorful—or the rather pricey (not always on the menu, so ask) choo chi goong mangkon (diced lobster in a makrut [lime]-infused red-curry sauce). If you’ve overdone the chili and spice, spoil yourself with refreshing tab tim grob—water chestnuts soaked in rose syrup and dusted with tapioca flour—with or without coconut-flavored ice cream.

Banyan Tree

Taj Holiday Village, Sinquerim, Bardez. & 0832/564-5858. Main courses Rs 215–Rs 975 ($4.75–$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:45pm and 7:30–10:45pm.

Two years ago Lisa Camps Kids ORGANIC/VEGETARIAN decided to open this wholesome, clean organic-food restaurant at Vagator, as an alternative to the predominantly non-vegetarian food available all over Goa. Meat-lovers won’t miss anything once they sample Lisa’s tofu lasagna or one of the daily house specials. But most delicious are the huge salads Lisa promises are the “safest in Goa.” Expect soya in almost everything at this “Soya Station,” including tofu ice cream and tofu cheesecake. If all this sounds too over-the-top healthy and New Age for you, you can sip on the unusual but tasty drinks and juices while you watch a movie (Thurs) or a dance performance or live Spanish band (Sun). Kids are well taken care of in the kids’ corner, with its comfy floor mattresses and cushions, reading and coloring books and—yes, ’fraid so—a TV playing Cartoon Network.

Bean Me Up

House no. 1639/2 Deul Vaddo, Anjuna-Vagator, Bardez. & 0832/227-3479. Reservations suggested for dinner during peak season. Main courses Rs 60–Rs 150 ($1.35–$3.40). MC, V. Sun–Fri noon–4pm and 7–11pm.

Britto’s Moments GOAN BEACH SHACK At this terrific food stop, you can sit in the beach shack or in the restaurant section. Cajie Britto, the owner-chef, dishes out a wicked pork vindaloo and excellent prawn curry, their tastiness corroborated by the

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number of locals who come here. If something less spicy is more your style, dig into the seafood platter or a juicy steak, and round it off with the Alpine chocolate mousse. And to quench your thirst, there are always bottles of chilled Kings beer available. A live one-man band plays on Monday night, karaoke is offered on Thursday, and a barbecue is held on both nights (make a reservation in peak season). Calangute Beach. & 0832/227-7331 or 0832/227-6291. Main courses Rs 60–Rs 190 ($1.35–$4.30). MC. Daily 8.30am–midnight. Closed June 21–Aug 10.

Copper Bowl GOAN/ECLECTIC It’s not just the setting that makes dining here so pleasurable, it’s the food, which is sensational. Graciously served from quaint copper pots, the typically Goan dishes are exquisite; try coconut-based chicken xacuti (pronounced cha-cooty) or fragrant prawn balchao, a mouthwatering combination of crispy prawns, aromatic spices, chili, onion, and prawn powder. If your taste leans more toward non-spicy cuisine, try the seafood in coconut-milk soup, followed by the “Seafood Treasure”—baby lobster, prawns, and two kinds of fish served in a banana leaf. Guests at the Pousada are even allowed to take over the kitchen and prepare their own specialties, but nothing will be served unless it’s fresh. Pousada Tauma, Porba Vaddo, Calangute. & 0832/227-9061. Main courses Rs 300–Rs 1,400 ($6.85–$33). MC, V. Dining all day, but reservations essential if you’re not a resident.

Le Restaurant Français FRENCH/FUSION Lit by the moon, the stars, and a number of old chandeliers dangling from the branches of surrounding trees, this charming slice of Gaul shares the same magical garden venue as the daytime eatery, Milky Way, where Janis Joplin and The Beatles once hung out. Those erstwhile pop stars would have loved the elegantly laid-back atmosphere that fun-loving accidental restaurateurs Morgan, Florence, and Serge brought with them from the Continent. The menu (beautifully handwritten by Florence in French, with lively English translations) features imaginatively innovative dishes concocted by Morgan, who likes to “escape” (read: “experiment”), so dishes change regularly, along with the decor. Musttries include the baby calamari stuffed with a ratatouille of prawns, and the filet of sardines on phyllo pastry with mint coulis. This is also the only place in Goa where rabbit is served, and the fresh (nonfrozen) beef is specially flown in from Bangalore. Be sure to leave space for the addictive chocolate cake, whose recipe Morgan once used as baksheesh at airport Customs. Baga Rd., Calangute. & 98/2212-1712. [emailprotected]. Main courses Rs 260–Rs 690 ($5.75–$15). No credit cards. Dec 10–Apr 28, Tues—Fri 7:30pm–late.

SHOPPING Besides the vibrant markets (see “Shopping in the Global Village Markets” box, earlier in this chapter), Calangute has a variety of options worth checking out. Casa Goa is a stylish boutique featuring designer wear by celebrated Goan designer Wendell Rodricks, as well as local artwork, silk drapes, and a variety of antiques (Khobra Vaddo, Baga Rd.; & 0832/228-1048). Then take a look at Leela Art Palace nearby; with any luck, proprietor Ravi will be in. You might find yourself agreeing to accompany him on an exotic journey into some of the country’s remotest regions, where he regularly treks to source tribal art. Also in Calangute, Subodh Kerkar Art Gallery, run by Goa’s well-known watercolorist, showcases contemporary Indian art including ceramics, hand-painted chests, and Rajasthani sculptures (Gauro Vaddo; & 0832/ 227-6017). Each Tuesday (6:45–8pm; Rs 300/$6.85), an interesting classical dance and music performance is held at the gallery.

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Psychedelic Journeys Rave parties are now almost as synonymous with Goa as hippie culture. If you want to attend one of the winter rave parties, held around full moon, you have to ask around at shacks (at little Vagator, Anjuna, or Arambol). Location is often kept secret until late in the evening to avoid harassment from cops, and is disclosed only few hours before the party starts. These underground dance and music parties usually start at 11pm and go on till at least 8am; sometimes they carry on for 3 to 4 days, as the party moves from one location to another. Various intoxicants are freely available and consumed, and local women set up stalls outside selling chai and snacks. DJs play techno/psychedelic/trance music (or psy-trance); ravers often dress up in old-fashioned costumes and wear rave belts and colorful clothes, all part of setting the mood for their psychedelic journey. Regulars insist that these are not just massive techno freak-outs where everybody is “tripping,” but a mystical, devotional experience akin to a spiritual encounter.

Located in a 200-year-old Portuguese mansion, Sangolda is the lifestyle boutique venture by the dynamic duo behind the boutique hotel Nilaya Hermitage; here you can shop for unusual home accessories and furniture sourced from all over India— from rattan loungers from Kerala to Rajasthani chests. Attached is a gallery-cum-coffee-shop (Chogm Rd., Sangolda; & 0832/240-9309 or -9310). Also in Sangolda is Monsoon Heritage, a contemporary design studio created by internationally renowned designers Yahel Chirinian and Doris Zacheres (recently selected as one of the 23 most happening designers in the world by UrbanO magazine), who pair huge discarded tropical trees with mirrors and glass to create exclusive design pieces for the (very) rich and famous. You’ll find their showrooms in Paris and Santa Monica, but their main base (and inspiration) is Goa (276/1 Livrament Vaddo, Sangolda; & 0832/240-9800; www.monsoonheritage.com). For authentic Goan souvenirs, proceed to Velha Goa Galleria (& 0832/2426628) in Fountainhas, Panjim, for azulejos, attractive Portuguese-style hand-painted tiles and ceramics. They will also pack these delicate items carefully so that they survive the journey home. Also in Panjim, the government-run Craft Complex (& 0832/ 222-6448) stocks basic handicrafts from all over Goa. Fashionistas will be pleased with Wendell Rodricks Design Space in Altinho, Panjim (& 0832/223-8177). Wendell believes in affordable designer wear, and his store has everything from evening gowns to casual wear. And then there’s Sosa’s, a trendy fashion store stocking couture by Goan designer Savio Jon as well as other young and rising designers (E-245 Rua de Ourem; & 0832/222-8063). Not far from Panjim on Ribander Road, Camelot (& 0832/244-4503; closed Apr–Sept) is an über-chic store housed in an old villa on the Mandovi River. Surrounded by walls painted gold, fuchsia, and royal blue, you can shop for designer clothing as well as exquisite silks, objets d’art, linen, and furniture.

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WHERE’S THE PARTY? Your best bet for finding a good party is to hang out around whatever appears to be the most popular beach shack of the season, and chat up the locals (but be wary of getting lifts to unknown venues with strangers). Other excellent spots for picking up the scent of out-of-the-way parties are Ingo’s Saturday Night Bazaar, Anjuna’s Wednesday Market, or ever-popular Tito’s (& 0832/275028)—still the most happening nightclub in Goa (closed off season). This local institution has been going for years and attracts anyone and everyone who’s up for a party. For a less rocking atmosphere accompanied by fairly good food, check out Kamaki (& 98232-76520), a lounge bar up the road from Tito’s that’s open 24 hours; or hang out at Mambo’s, an open-air pub where DJs Ajit and Yuri spin 1980s rock music (but no trance). For a cooler, more fashionable night out, try Congo Lounge (Souza Vaddo; & 0832/5644226)—its pink and jungle-green decor forms a great backdrop for the designer-wearclad patrons.

4 South of Panjim Compared with the beach playgrounds of north Goa, the south is more about solitude and stretches of virgin sand (with the north only a short ride away). For the most part, you’ll be sunning yourself on whatever beach is slap-bang in front of your resort hotel—each with its own idyllic setting, these stretches of largely untouched beaches are paradise. If you’re on a tighter budget or want a bit more atmosphere, head farther south to picturesque Palolem . Remote and tranquil (yet only 40km/25 miles from Madgaon), this is one of Goa’s most beautiful stretches of coastline, a gorgeous sandy crescent cove lined with coconut palms and a few shacks and stalls. Although it’s becoming increasingly popular over the high season, it remains free of sun beds, day-trippers, and large resorts, with accommodations limited to thatched tree houses or wooden houses on stilts. At sunset, Palolem becomes a natural meditation spot; the sun disappearing slowly behind the beach’s northernmost promontory casts a shadow over local fishing boats, swimmers, joggers, and cavorting dogs, as the rusticated bars come to life with pleasant lounge music. Just 7km (41⁄2 miles) north of Palolem, Agonda is even more isolated and peaceful, while to the south, Galgibaga is another remote haven with eucalyptus trees and empty stretches of sand. Getting There From Panjim you can travel directly to your beachfront resort by taxi or motorbike (the latter should take no more than 2–3 hr.), possibly stopping off for a swim at Bogmalo. One of the quietest of south Goa’s popular beaches, it has quaint shacks (as well as a number of ugly concrete buildings), fishing boats, and a view of two small islands some distance out to sea—ask about trips to the islands at the Watersports Goa shack, which also has equipment for activities like windsurfing and water-skiing. Farther south, you can stop for lunch at Martin’s Corner (& 0832/2880061 or -0413; 11am–3pm and 6:30–11pm; follow the back road between Majorda and Colva to Betalbatim), where Martin Pereira’s widow, Carafina, runs the kitchen with an iron fist. She began cooking wonderful dishes for this family restaurant back in 1994, when it opened with only two tables. Now Martin’s sons operate a successful and extremely popular courtyard establishment, surrounded by mango, coconut, and jackfruit groves. Order snapper recheado, butter-garlic prawns, or pomfret caldin made with a coconut milk curry. Carafina makes a mean homemade masala, prepared according to a secret family recipe with fresh Goan spices.

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Alternatively, consider a meandering trip via the Goan interior, traveling past Ponda to the Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary to view Goa’s oldest Hindu temple, Mahadeva Temple in Tambdi Surla, and the 600m-high (190-ft.) Dudhsagar (Sea of Milk) Falls. Constructed from slabs of black basalt, the 11th-century Mahadeva Temple is one of the few to have survived the Portuguese, thanks largely to its distance from the coast (some 75km/46 miles from Panjim). To reach the falls, you will need a jeep, so either set off with one from the outset (see “Arrival & Orientation,” earlier in this chapter), or hire one in nearby Collem. Take lunch (look out for greedy monkeys) and a bathing suit for a swim in the deep, icy pool surrounded by rocks and wild greenery. There is no reason to stop in Goa’s second city, Madgaon (Margao), which has little more to offer than a stroll through the sprawling spice-scented town market—a maze of covered stalls selling everything from garlands of flowers and peeled prawns to sacks bursting with turmeric, chilies, and tamarind—but two worthwhile house museums are nearby. In Loutolim (10km/61⁄4 miles north of Margao), you can tour the Araujo Alvares family home, Casa Araujo Alvares (arrangements through Loutolim’s Ancestral Goa Museum; & 0832/277-7034; daily 9am–1pm and 2–6pm), while 13km (8 miles) west lies the old Portuguese village of Chandor and impressive Casa de Braganza , Goa’s largest residence. The two-story facade of this Indo-Portuguese mansion—which practically takes up an entire street—features 28 balconies fronted by a lush, narrow garden. The land-owning Braganzas rose to prominence during the 17th century and today are divided into two clans, the Pereira-Braganzas and the MenezesBraganzas, who occupy separate wings of the house. The large, high-ceilinged rooms (including a 250-year-old library) are filled with original antiques, rosewood fourposter beds, mosaic floors, and Belgian glass chandeliers. Sun-lit galleries and parlors are filled with bric-a-brac, and French windows open onto an interior garden. You can arrange (& 0832/278-4201) to have a private tour conducted by Mrs Braganza; concentrate on the west wing, which is in the best condition.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE South Goa has more five-star resorts than north Goa, and the number is added to annually (raising the hackles of eco-watchdogs). The upmarket newcomer farthest south is humongous InterContinental The Grand Resort, which sprawls over 34 hectares (85 acres) and an exclusive stretch of beach; its 255 luxurious suites are

Om Beach: Escape to Paradise Often cited as the top beach in India and one of the best in the world, Paradisiacal Om Beach lies south in Gokarna, an hour across the border into Karnataka. Black rocks divide the superb white sand into three interconnected bays that more or less resemble the Sanskrit “om” symbol, the invocation that created the universe. Infrastructure here remains practically nonexistent, but new shacks and small “guesthouses” emerge every season. Alternatively, tranquil Devbagh Beach Resort (& 08382/22-1603, 080/2559-7021, -7024, or -7025; www.junglelodges.com) in Karwar, slightly north of Gokarna, makes for a pleasant getaway. Guests stay in log cabins on stilts among groves of casuarina trees—spend your days snorkeling (through General Thimayya National Academy of Adventures; & 080/221-0454), visiting outlying islands, beachcombing, or lazing in your hammock.

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currently being offered at good rates (from $200). At the other end, closest to Panjim, with the biggest pool in Goa, is the Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa (& 0832/2721234; www.goa.park.hyatt.com; from $300)—spread over 18 hectares (45 acres) on the virgin beach of Arrossim. Midway down the south coast are Radisson White Sands Resort (& 0832/272-7272; from $250) at Varca Beach; and Taj Exotica at Benaulim (see review below). Note that all of these resorts are very child-friendly, often with separate pools and activities, and babysitters are always available. The beach of Palolem is one of the last areas of south Goa free of resorts; here you’ll have to venture back to nature at one of many budget options, or cozy up at the wonderful Bhakti Kutir eco-resort, reviewed below. Even if you’ve just come for the day, dine at Aahar, where you’re served inexpensive, delicious organic health food under a giant cloth draped from the surrounding trees—try the dal and red spinach, served with organic rice, coconut chutney, and fresh, nutty hummus; or sunflower seed and moong (mung) bean-sprout salad with steamed spinach, toasted nuts and seeds, and tofu, served with homemade whole-wheat rice-bread. The stir-fried bean, paprika, and mushroom salad is also good. The fish curry is light and not too spicy, made with coconut gravy, and is delicious mopped up with the wheatgrass chapati. Bhakti Kutir This is by far Palolem’s most atmospheric and comfortValue Kids able option, though don’t expect any real luxury. It’s the brainchild of Panta Ferrao, a Goan lawyer who (aided by his German wife, Ute) dropped out to start an ecologically sensitive resort that would empower local people with skills and provide comfortable accommodations in a fantastic location. Bhakti Kutir offers a selection of mud-plastered bamboo “cottages” made entirely from natural materials, with en-suite ablution facilities—squat toilets (organic, of course) and bucket showers. Windows are ingeniously crafted from seashells, while the cushions, fabrics, beds, and even mattresses (some comfortable, others hard) are all made by locals. Try to book room no. 6, which is built on different levels; no. 8, a double-story unit with an upstairs balcony; or the “stone house” (built with Panta’s German in-laws in mind) with more traditionally Western facilities (like a toilet). Come prepared for mosquitoes, dark pathways, and plenty of back-to-nature experiences. Set a short distance from the beach, the resort features a health-conscious, mostly vegetarian restaurant (fresh seafood is the exception), a bar serving beer and wine, and an assortment of esoteric activities like Ayurvedic treatments, yoga, and meditation. Workshops and cooking classes are held for those wishing to extend their knowledge of local culture. They’ve recently added an alternative school to keep the kids happy and busy. It’s very popular, so reserve well in advance. Palolem. & 0832/264-3469 or -3472. [emailprotected]. 22 units. Jan 15–Dec 15 Rs 3,000 ($68) stone house, Rs 1,200–Rs 1,500 ($28–$35) cabana, Rs 2,500–Rs 2,800 ($58–$64) 2-bedroom cabana. Ask for off-season discounts; rates are flexible (higher Dec 15–Jan 15). No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; amphitheater; pool table; airport transfers; Ayurvedic and healing center, massage, yoga, meditation, mud baths, cooling baths; boutique; babysitting; laundry; kitchen; tailor; school. In room: Mosquito net.

Just when we thought you couldn’t go any farther south, the mother of all luxurious Goa resorts opens at Canacona Beach, south of Palolem. Its first plus, over other five-star resorts, is its long, exclusive beachfront, followed by its (very Grand) architecture—an impressive two-level yellow baroquePortuguese quinta is topped with a red-tile roof. Interiors flaunt classic mahogany furniture, patterned terrazzo flooring, and old-fashioned ceiling fans. And then, of course, there are all the trappings of a luxurious resort, including a Champneys spa

InterContinental The Grand

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with an exhaustive list of revitalization treatments. As at The Leela, however, you will need a golf cart to take you to the beach or pool, or just about anywhere. Ask for one of the lovely, spacious, sea-facing suites that also overlook the expansive golf course. Numerous restaurants offer a variety of cuisines: most interesting is Sea BQ, the openair restaurant where your meal is cooked on a Japanese barbecue grill on your table. The resort also owns a three-bedroom yacht, Blue Diamond, which is rented out to guests. On the downside, The Grand is a 2-hour traipse to Panjim, which means you’ll spend half your day traveling if you want to venture out. Raj Baga, Canacona, Goa 403 702. & 0832/264-4777. Fax 0832/264-4711. www.thegrandhotels.net. 255 units. $200–$375 garden-view suite; $250–$425 sea-view suite; $350–$750 luxury suite; $1,000–$2,200 presidential suite. $40 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; children’s pool; 18-hole golf course; tennis courts; squash courts; jogging tracks; health club; table tennis; billiards; spa; yoga; watersports; children’s activity center; travel desk; airport transfers; business center; conference room; salon; 24-hr. room service; laundry; dry cleaning; doctor-on-call; valet. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, Wi-Fi enabled, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, weighing scale, safe.

The Leela Spectacularly positioned at the edge of the bleached-white sands of a near-private stretch of beach with scattered coconut palms, the resort—fashioned after the palaces of the great 14th-century Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar—straddles the slender Mobor peninsula where the Sal River flows into the sea. Most of the accommodations are in an expansive “pavilion,” all with views overlooking the lagoon—an unfortunate use of the superb location. No doubt you’d much rather face the Arabian Sea (as you can at most rooms at the Taj Exotica and InterContinental). Cavelossim, Mobor, Goa 403 731. & 0832/287-1234. Fax 0832/287-1352. www.ghmhotels.com. 152 units. Apr 1–Sept 30, Oct 1–Dec 27, Dec 28–Jan 2: $165/$320/$420 pavilion double; $275/$495/$715 lagoon suite; $330/$540/$880 lagoon deluxe suite; $605/$1,155/$1,980 royal villa; $1,595/$2,200/$3,300 presidential villa. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 bars; casino; pool; children’s pool; 12-hole golf course; tennis courts; health club; Ayurvedic spa; watersports; yoga; children’s activity center; travel desk; airport transfers; shopping arcade; salon; 24hr. room service; babysitting; laundry; dry cleaning; doctor-on-call; valet. In room: A/C, TV, VCR, hi-fi with DVD player, dataport, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, iron on request, electronic safe.

Packing much the same punch as The Leela, this resort features lovely surrounds (23 hectares/56 acres of landscaped gardens with 36 varieties of hibiscus trees), great accommodations, warm service, and a kick-ass beach that might as well be private. It’s not as expensive as The Leela (it may look cheaper during the monsoon season, but most of the year you’re looking at about $100 to $150 more for a comparable room), and even the cheapest “deluxe” guest rooms are spacious, with large picture windows and private patios or balconies. Ask for one on the ground floor—these are accessed via their own garden areas. The private villas are ideal if you don’t want to be in the main block, which looks something like a large Portuguese hacienda—specify a sea-facing room for a sea view (the cheaper villas have garden views). The sunset pool villas have all been recently upgraded and have private plunge pools—plus, the main pool is large and inviting. Another good reason to book here is Alegria, where the most delicious home-cooked Goan, Portuguese, and Hindu Goan Saraswat meals are prepared. Mainstay dishes include komdeche lomin (gently spiced grilled chicken), sungtachi koddi (prawns in a fragrant gravy of coconut milk and mild spices), galinha cafreal (chicken in garlic, fresh coriander, and ginger), and authentic Goan sorpotel (a spicy pork stew). Upstairs, Miguel Arcanjo makes some of the best pizzas in Goa. Taj Exotica Goa

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Calwaddo, Benaulim, Salcete, Goa 403 716. & 0832/277-1234. Fax 0832/277-1515. www.tajhotels.com. exotica. [emailprotected]. 140 units. Sept 1–Dec 22, Jan 5–Oct 31, Dec 22–Jan 5: $270/$330/$445 garden-facing villa double, $295/$355/$470 deluxe sea-facing double, $370/$430/$545 luxury double; $320/$380/$495 sea-facing villa, $445/$505/$620 sunset pool villa, $700/$760/$1,100 luxury suite. $20 extra bed. Mandatory $115 per person Christmas Eve dinner and $250 New Year’s Eve dinner. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 4 bars; pool with Jacuzzi; kids’ pool; 9-hole pitch and putt golf course; 2 tennis courts; fitness center, Ayurvedic spa, yoga, aerobics; beach volleyball; jogging track; table tennis; pool tables; watersports; children’s activity center; concierge; currency exchange; travel desk, car rental; complimentary airport transfers; helipad; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.

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6 God’s Own Country: Kerala & Lakshadweep T

he god who made Kerala, according to a popular Malayali saying, had a green thumb. Indeed, India’s most verdant state—rated by National Geographic Traveler as one of the world’s 50 must-see destinations—is a paradisiacal landscape of palm-lined beaches, steamy jungles, plantation-covered hills, and tropical rivers and lakes. Visitors come here primarily to unwind and indulge; this is, after all, where succumbing to a therapeutic Ayurvedic massage is as mandatory as idling away an afternoon aboard a slowly drifting kettuvallam, or sipping coconut water under a tropical sun before taking in a wonderfully ritualized Kathakali dance. Eastward, the spice-scented Cardamom Hills and wild elephants of Periyar beckon, while a short flight west takes you to the little-known but sublime tropical reefs of the Lakshadweep islands. All of which make Kerala not just a must-see on your India itinerary, but a major destination in its own right. A thin strip on the southwest coastline, sandwiched between the Lakshadweep Sea and the forested Western Ghats that define its border with Tamil Nadu to the east, Kerala covers a mere 1.3% of the country’s total land area, yet its rich resources have long attracted visitors from across the oceans—it is in fact here that the first seafarers set foot on Indian soil. Legend has it that King Solomon’s ships traded off the Malabar coast between 972 and 932 B.C., followed by the Phoenicians, Romans, Christians,

Arabs, and Chinese, all of whom came to stock up on Malabar’s monkeys, tigers, parrots, timber and, of course, the abundance of spices that were literally worth their weight in gold. Seafarers not only brought trade but built synagogues and churches in the emerging port cities, while an entirely Muslim population set up shop on the islands of Lakshadweep. Despite its religious cosmopolitanism (many locals will tell you they subscribe to both Hinduism and Christianity), Kerala’s Hindu tradition is deeply engrained in daily life. Most temples do not permit non-Hindus to enter, but almost every month brings magnificent temple processions involving chanting devotees and squadrons of elephants adorned in flamboyant caparisons. Contemporary Kerala was created in 1956 from the former princely states of Travancore, Kochi, and Malabar. Largely ruled by benevolent Maharajas who introduced social reforms emphasizing the provision of education and basic services, Kerala remains one of the most progressive, literate, and educated states in post-independence India. In 1957, it became the first place in the world to democratically elect a Communist government, and the first Indian state to introduce a family-planning program. Despite its high population density, Keralites have the country’s highest life expectancy and the lowest infant mortality rates. Kerala is considered one of the cleanest and most peaceful parts of India,

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Ayurveda: Kerala’s Healing Balm An ancient healing tradition that draws on 3,000 years of Vedic culture, Ayurveda is the subcontinent’s traditional science of “life, vitality, health, and longevity” or, to tap into a more contemporary buzzphrase, “the science of well-being.” Kerala has long been considered the home of Ayurveda, no doubt due to the abundance of herbal and medicinal plants that thrive in its tropical environment. You will find therapists, physicians, and commercial Ayurvedic shops selling roots, herbs, and bark throughout the state. Renowned for its curative and rejuvenating powers (and a gift from no other than Lord Brahma), Ayurveda works on your physical, mental, and emotional well-being by rectifying any imbalances in the three doshas— vata (air), pitta (fire), and kapha (water)—that are believed to make up the human constitution. In fact, in one ancient tome on Ayurveda, the Caraka Samhita, it is stated that the mind, body, and soul are like a tripod, and that the world’s continued existence relies on their combination. It takes 51⁄2 years of training to qualify as an Ayurvedic doctor, who is then able to prescribe the herbal remedies and related therapies. While much of what is practiced in Ayurvedic medicine has similarities to Western medical practice (the first 3 years of training in anatomy are basically the same), the most significant difference lies in the area of pharmacology, since Ayurvedic medicines are all natural. Some may scoff, but no one can deny the sheer pleasure of the treatments—Ayurveda will suit those skeptics who merely seek the ultimate in pampering, whether you opt for a soothing facial treatment, in which the face is massaged and steamed with herbal oils, or for an energizing full body massage performed with hands and feet (and often by several masseuses simultaneously). Skeptics take note: To truly experience the strange bliss and resultant high of Ayurveda, book a sirodhara treatment, wherein 5 to 6 liters of warm herbal oil (selected according to the body constitution) are poured steadily onto your “third eye” (the forehead) for the better part of an hour while (or after which) you are massaged—this is said to retard the aging process (by arresting the degeneration of cells) and to relieve the body of all stress. No matter which balm you choose, you’ll find that the well-practiced masseuses of Kerala will treat your body like a temple; for them, the massage or treatment is a spiritual exercise. Of course, it helps to know that your body is being worshipped when you’re lying there in your birthday suit (note that in strict accordance with Indian piety, you will be assigned a same-sex therapist). Whatever its purported virtues and pleasures, Ayurveda lures thousands of Westerners to Kerala, which in turn sustains a thriving industry that puts food on the table for many people. For our selection of the best Ayurvedic resorts, see chapter 1.

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a claim substantiated by its prosperity— the state remains a major source of India’s bananas, rubber, coconuts, cashews, and ginger. While much of Kerala retains an untouched charm, this prosperity has a downside: A highly educated population has meant that many are unwilling to do menial jobs, creating extensive unemployment. Others head for the Gulf to seek their fortunes, returning with sufficient cash to tear down the traditional carved wood dwellings that so greatly characterize the region and replace them with “modern” status symbols. Many of these traditional homes have been bought and reassembled at top-notch resorts like Coconut Lagoon and Surya Samudra, a

practice vilified as exploitative by Kerala native Arundhati Roy in her Booker Prize–winning The God of Small Things. Others applaud their preservation. For visitors, a stay in these tharavadu cottages is one of the most charming aspects of a trip to Kerala. If you’re interested in ancient history and grand temples, you should include a visit to neighboring Tamil Nadu or Karnataka, but if all you need is rejuvenation, head straight for Fort Cochin, then south to cruise the backwaters and wash up on some of the world’s most beautiful beaches. “God’s Own Country” is one tourist slogan that really does deliver.

1 Cochin (Kochi) 1,080km (670 miles) S of Mumbai

Cochin is not the capital of Kerala, but it is its most charming city, blessed with its own international airport and a relatively good infrastructure, making it the ideal gateway to the state. This has been the case since 1341, the year nature carved out Cochin’s harbor with a massive flood. As a result, Cochin became the first port of call for Arabs, Chinese and, finally, European sea merchants, who sailed for barter into what came to be known as the “Queen of the Arabian Sea.” Lured by the promise of pepper, the Portuguese under Vasco da Gama arrived in 1500, and the Franciscan friars who accompanied the explorer Pedro Alvarez Cabral established a church and set about converting the locals. By 1553, the Maharaja of Cochin had granted permission for the construction of the first European fort in India, and what had been an obscure fishing hamlet became India’s first European settlement. In 1663, Cochin fell to the Dutch, and then to the British in 1795. Each of these foreign influences left their mark, resulting in a distinctly Indo-European culture, most evident in the architecture. Today, Cochin (or Kochi, as it has been renamed) comprises three distinct areas. Down at heel, but wonderfully atmospheric, the historic districts of Mattancherry and Fort Cochin lie on one of two peninsular arms that shield the Kochi harbor—this is where you should try to find accommodations and spend most of your time. Opposite it, on the mainland that creates the eastern peninsula, lies modern Ernakulam. Between the two are the islands, well connected to the mainland by bridges. Fort Cochin, the oldest European settlement in India, retains an old-world charm. Its battlements no longer stand, but the combination of Portuguese, Dutch, Jewish, British, and local influences is evident in the tiled, steep-roofed bungalows that line its quaint streets, and it’s home to the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth. Plan to spend at least 2 nights in Cochin, enjoying its charming atmosphere and low-key sights at a lazy, relaxed pace. Take in a Kathakali performance, dig into the delectable seafood, enjoy a romantic sunset cruise around the harbor and, if you’re at all interested in bargains in antiques, get ready to wade through stores packed with unexpected curiosities.

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ACCOMMODATIONS Bolgatty Palace 16 The Brunton Boatyard Hotel 8 Casino Hotel 14 Cherai Beach Resorts 7 Fort Heritage 1 The Fort House 9 Le Meridien 18 Malabar House Residency 2 The Old Courtyard 5 Taj Malabar 13 Taj Residency 17 Trident Hilton Cochin 15

Air India

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ATTRACTIONS Chinese Fishing Nets 6 Matancherry/ Dutch Palace 11 Paradesi Synagogue 12 Pepper Exchange 10 Santa Cruz Cathedral 3 St. Francis Church 4

DINING Fort Cochin 14 The History 8 Malabar Junction 2 Rice Boat 13 Terrace Grill 8 Thai Pavilion 13

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ESSENTIALS VISITOR INFORMATION Kerala has perhaps the best tourism bureaus in India, and Cochin is no exception. In Ernakulam and on Willingdon Island, you will find the helpful Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC, Shanmugham Rd., Ernakulam; & 0484/235-3234; Willingdon Island branch near Taj Malabar Hotel; both daily 8am–7pm). The best one-stop place for info is probably the privately run Tourist Desk Information Counter (& 0484/237-1761; daily 8am–6pm), located at Ernakulam’s Main Boat Jetty. Be sure to pick up Hello Cochin, a bimonthly free booklet filled with useful contacts and information. If you’re traveling farther afield and need general information, visit the Government of India Tourist Office (near the Taj Malabar, Willingdon Island; & 0484/266-8352; Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat 9am–1pm). A Tourism Information Counter (& 0484/261-0113, ext. 2105) at the airport is usually open for all arrivals. GETTING THERE & AWAY By Air Kochi International Airport (& 0484/ 261-0115 or -0116) is one of India’s best. It’s located alongside National Highway 47, in Nedumbassery, which is 42km (26 miles) from the historic heart of Fort Cochin. There are flights to and from Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, Goa, Lakshadweep, Kozhikode, Tiruchirappalli, Thiruvananthapuram, and Bangalore; international flights are mostly through the Middle East, with flights also arriving from Singapore, the Maldives, and Sri Lanka. A prepaid taxi service into the city is available at the airport; transfers to Fort Cochin cost about Rs 590 ($13) plus Rs 10 (25¢) per piece of luggage. Kerala Adventures (29/1027A Vyttila; & 98470-35627 or 93888-17544; touch@keralaadventures. com) operates a taxi service between the city and the airport (Rs 650/$14.80); e-mail them your arrival plans, and a taxi will be waiting for you, or look for them when you exit. By Train Cochin is well connected by rail to almost every part of India. Some of the journeys can be long and grueling, however, so check on times, or opt for train travel only within Kerala. Departing from Delhi, the biweekly (Tues and Sat) Trivandrum Rajdhani makes its way to Calicut, Cochin, and Trivandrum; this is one of the best connections in Kerala—some of the journey is very scenic but it’s a punishing 48 hours if you start from Delhi. Cochin has three principal railway stations: Ernakulam Town Station (& 0484/ 239-0920 or -5198), Ernakulam Junction (& 1364), and Willingdon Island’s Cochin Harbour Railway Station (& 0484/266-6050); ask your hotel which is best to disembark from. The computerized reservations office is at the Junction Railway Station (Mon–Sat 8am–2pm and 2:15–8pm; Sun 8am–2pm). By Road Traveling around Kerala with a rented car and driver can be wonderful and exhilarating; there’s plenty of natural beauty worth taking in. Compared with roads in other parts of India, Kerala’s roads are in good shape. North of Cochin, coast-hugging National Highway 17 passes through Calicut and runs all the way to Mangalore in Karnataka. Traveling south between Cochin and the capital Trivandrum (6 hr.), National Highway 47 has been resurfaced in recent years, and the highway really spreads out for the popular segment between Cochin and the backwater town of Alleppey. For journeys between Tamil Nadu and Kerala, you can expect long but beautiful stretches along National Highway 47, which traverses hairpin mountain passes. Private and state buses connect Cochin with many cities and towns throughout South India; these provide

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something bordering on a theme-park experience, however, and have a reputation for thrill-ride speeds. GETTING AROUND By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Speak to your hotel management about the most up-to-date rates. For the most part, it’s best to negotiate a mutually agreeable fare before starting off; auto-rickshaws should charge around Rs 8 (20¢) for the first kilometer, with the rate dropping to Rs 4 (10¢) for each additional kilometer. For longer journeys, you’ll be asked to pay for the return trip. Many auto-rickshaws will refuse to travel between Ernakulam and Fort Cochin; some drivers even pretend they’ve never heard of it. Taxicabs are reasonable, charging around double the auto-rickshaw rates: A one-way trip between Fort Cochin and Ernakulam should cost in the region of Rs 175 ($4). Note that the New Mattancherry Bridge between Fort Cochin and Willingdon, built in 2001, charges a Rs 10 (25¢) toll for cars, jeeps, and vans. By Ferry The ferry is a quick, convenient, and cheap way to get between any of Kochi’s main areas and to travel to any of the islands. Ernakulam’s two most important jetties are the Main Jetty off Fore Shore Road, for services to Willingdon Island (about 15 min.), Fort Cochin (about 30 min.), and Vypeen; and High Court Jetty off Shanmugham Road, from where you can get to Bolgatty Island. Ferry services begin at 6am and continue until 9:30pm; fares are nominal. GUIDED TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC, Shanmugham Rd., Ernakulam; & 0484/235-3234) and the privately run Tourist Desk (Main Boat Jetty, Ernakulam; & 0484/237-1761) offer half-day boat cruises of Cochin as well as daily tours and longer kettuvallam houseboat cruises of the backwaters near Cochin. Sita Travels (Tharakan Building, M.G. Rd., Ravipuram, Ernakulam; & 0484/236-3801 or 0484/237-4122; [emailprotected]) is useful for private tours of the entire state; they can also help with booking arrangements. You can also tailor splendid packages to destinations all over Kerala through Cox & Kings (www.coxandkings.co.uk). The same company can arrange tours by train or with car and driver, as well as trips of varying duration on Kerala’s famous backwater houseboats. Babu John of Kerala Adventures (& 98470-35627 or 9388817544; fax 0484/230-7544; [emailprotected]) is a reliable local agent who has a fleet of vehicles for rent. He can customize itineraries and is well-versed in the needs of foreign clients, with all services provided at going rates. If you’re the kind who doesn’t plan ahead, you can even call Babu from the airport, request a pickup, and ask to be shown a few hotels in your preferred price range before deciding where to stay. The Kerala Tourism Development Corporation Limited (KTDC) offers a wide range of tours and packages to suit different budgets, but be aware that most of these will include accommodations at state-run hotels, which are of varying standards, usually on the poor side. For details and bookings, contact their central reservations in Trivandrum, the capital (Mascot Sq.; & 0471/231-6736; fax 0471/233-4780; www.ktdc.com; [emailprotected]; Mon–Sat 8am–6pm, Sun and public holidays 10am–4pm). Contact TourIndia Holidays (31/670 Narayani Nivas, Sahodaran Ayyappan Rd., Vyttila, Kochi; & 0484/238-9862; fax 0484/238-9029; [emailprotected]) for trekking in Periyar; they also arrange houseboat trips. WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Kerala is between mid-October and April, with December and January the most pleasant months, though many resorts charge

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Homestays in Kerala A homestay, in which you board with a local household, is a great way to immerse yourself in real Indian culture and hospitality. It is highly recommended as an alternative or addition to the one-size-fits-all hotel experience. Kerala has a number of homestay options, including the sublime Tranquil Resorts (see “In & Around Wyanad,” later in the chapter), our favorite in all of India, as well as homestays in Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary and Kottayam and the backwaters. Check them out on www.homestayskerala.com, or call the agency Homestay Kerala at & 0484/231-0324.

accordingly, some even doubling their rates. The backwaters are best visited from midNovember to February, when the muggy heat and mosquitoes are less bothersome. From about August to May, caparisoned elephants take to the streets in spectacular festivals; by far the biggest festival is the Pooram Temple festival, which takes place in April/May in Thrissur (Trichur), 74km (46 miles) north of Cochin. Contact the tourist offices in Cochin (through whom you can reach almost any of the festivals) for exact dates.

FAST FACTS: Cochin Airlines For the Jet Airways city office (Elmar Sq., M.G. Rd., Ravipuram, Ernakulam), call & 0484/229-3231; for the airport counter, call & 0484/2610037. The Indian Airlines city office (Durbar Hall Rd., Ernakulam; & 0484/2371141) is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 4:30pm; or call the airport counter at & 0484/261-0101 or 0484/261-0041. Ambulance Dial 101. Area Code The area code for Cochin is & 0484. ATMs This is always the best way to get instant cash in Indian cities. Cochin now has several ATMs at which you can use your Visa or MasterCard, if it has been encoded in your home country. Banks See “Currency Exchange,” below. Bookstores Both branches of Idiom Books are wonderful for a wide variety of books on India, its culture, and its literature. In Fort Cochin, the store is at the corner of Bastion and Quirose streets (& 0484/221-7075; Mon–Sat 9am–9pm, Sun 9am–6pm). In Mattancherry, it’s opposite the Boat Jetty on Jew Street (& 0484/222-5604; daily 10am–6pm). Car Hires & Taxis On average, you can expect to pay Rs 8 to Rs 10 (20¢–23¢) per kilometer for a car and driver. More expensive cars include air-conditioning, which will prove invaluable in Kerala’s sultry climate. Also count on paying an overnight fee for each stopover. The Government of India Tourist Office (near Taj Malabar Hotel, Willingdon Island; & 0484/266-8352; Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat 9am–1pm) has a fleet of vehicles. Also try: Sita Travels (Tharakan Building, M.G. Rd., Ernakulam; & 0484/237-4122) and Kerala Adventures (see “Guided Tours & Travel Agents,” above).

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Currency Exchange Your best option is Thomas Cook (M.G. Rd., Ernakulam; & 0484/237-1337; Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm), which also has a branch at the airport (& 0484/261-0052 or -0032). Canara Bank in Fort Cochin (Kunnumpuram Junction, Amaravathy Rd.; & 0484/221-5467; Mon–Fri 10am–2pm and 2:30–3:30pm, Sat 10am–noon) can exchange traveler’s checks and give cash advances against your credit card. Also try Standard Chartered (M.G. Rd., Ernakulam; Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:30pm, Sat till 1pm). Drugstores Medilab (Doraiswamy Iyer Rd., Ernakulam; open around the clock.

0484/236-8963) is

Emergencies For fires and other emergencies, including medical services, call & 101. Hospitals In Ernakulam, head for Medical Trust Hospital (M.G. Rd.; & 0484/ 235-8001) or Lissy Hospital (Lissy Junction; & 0484/240-2668). If you have a medical emergency in Fort Cochin, your hotel should be able to organize good medical assistance. Internet Access Cochin has plenty of Internet cafes. These generally charge more than any of the options in Ernakulam. Call’n’Fax/Shop’n’Save (Princess St.; & 0484/221-5438; Mon–Sat 8am–10pm, Sun 9am–10pm) charges Rs 40 (90¢) per hour. Police Dial & 100. Post Office In Ernakulam, use the General Post Office on Hospital Road. The Kochi Head Post Office is in Fort Cochin (behind St. Francis Church). Website Visit www.keralatourism.org for up-to-date information.

WHAT TO SEE & DO Lazy and laid-back, Fort Cochin offers a tranquillity that is in complete contrast to the heaving city experience of Ernakulam, which is ultimately missable. Comprising Mattancherry and Jew Town, Fort Cochin has a historic atmosphere—it is, after all, a town where 14 different languages are spoken, and tumbled-down mansions line narrow ancient lanes. Near the water’s edge, old warehouses (or godowns) are filled with the state’s treasured cash crops—pepper, tea, Ayurvedic herbs, whole ginger, and betel nuts—being dried, sorted, and prepared for direct sale or auction. The area is wonderful for historic walks, particularly into Jew Town, which hosts a community that dates back to the 1st century A.D. and was augmented during the 16th century when the Inquisition brought a fresh wave of Jewish immigrants here. Today only a handful of aging “white Jewish” families remain in Cochin, but their residential quarter retains a charming ambience, with cobbled streets and fascinating antiques shops and spice markets. Man-made Willingdon Island, a short ferry ride or bridge journey away, was created in the 20th century by large-scale dredging. There are several good hotels here, but the island is primarily concerned with naval and commercial port activity and is not worth visiting unless you’re based here. Bolgatty Island, reached by ferry, is of no interest other than the rather lovely palace, which has been converted into a government-run hotel.

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EXPLORING FORT COCHIN ON FOOT Start your tour at the harbor near Vasco da Gama Square, where you can watch fishermen hoisting their catch from the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets that line the shore, then head along Church Road to St. Francis Church. Keep going toward Parade Road (near the Malabar House Residency; see “Where to Stay,” below), making a left onto Peter Celli Street to explore a few local shops before you drift down Bastion Street, in the direction of Santa Cruz Cathedral. Then head back toward Princess Street, where you can see Koder House. Built in 1808 by Jewish patriarch Samuel Koder, this is a good example of the hybrid Indo-European style that developed in Cochin. It’s still occupied, so you’ll have to appreciate it from the sidewalk. On the same road, the Pierce Leslie Bungalow is a charming 19th-century mansion reflecting Portuguese and Dutch influences on local architecture. Take a break at Kashi Art Café (Burgher St.; & 0484/221-5769), where the food and service are uninspired but the contemporary art and vibrant atmosphere provide a colorful contrast to the historic surroundings. Afterwards, catch an auto-rickshaw to Mattancherry, where you should visit Mattancherry (Dutch) Palace and Paradesi Synagogue (see below) before discovering the fragrant scents of Kerala’s spice warehouses. Make time to visit a few of the antiques warehouses, and don’t be put off by the layers of dust and grime—there are some real treasures to be found. End your day full circle with a sunset cruise around the harbor; this is the best way to enjoy the most-photographed of Cochin’s historic sights, the Chinese fishing nets that form wonderful silhouettes against a red- and orange-hued sky. Chinese Fishing Nets Said to have been introduced by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, these cantilevered nets, set up on teak and bamboo poles, are physical remnants of Fort Cochin’s ancient trade with the Far East. Fishermen work the nets all day long, lowering them into the water and then hauling them up using a remarkably efficient pulley system. The best place to watch them at work is from Vasco da Gama Square or from a boat at sunset. Nearby, the Indo-European Bastion Bungalow (now the official residence of the Sub Collector) dates back to 1667; built on the site of the old Dutch Fort’s Stromberg Bastion, it is believed to stand above a network of secret tunnels. Vasco da Gama Sq. is on the water’s edge along River Rd.

Also known as the Dutch Palace, this large two-story 16th-century building was actually built by the Portuguese, who gave it to the Raja of Cochin as thanks for trading rights and favors granted to them. When the Dutch claimed Cochin in 1663, they took control of the palace and gave it a makeover. The large two-story building with its sloping roofs and pale walls is now a shadow of what it must have once been. Part of it is open to visitors, and displays include a collection of coronation robes, palanquins, and royal family portraits, but the real reason to visit is to view the bedroom chamber, where vibrant murals, executed in vivid red, green, and yellow ocher, are truly exquisite. Particularly notable are erotic scenes of the divine lover, Krishna, surrounded by enraptured female figures. Vishnu, Shiva, and various Hindu deities fill the large walls, their eyes wide and bodies full. These are among the first examples of a school of painting specific to Kerala.

Mattancherry Palace

Palace Rd., Mattancherry. Admission Rs 2 (5¢). No photography. Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm.

Cochin’s first Jewish settlers arrived from Yemen and Babylon as early as A.D. 52; this—the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth—was Paradesi Synagogue

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originally built 1,500 years later. Set in a corner of Jew Town and rather hemmed in by other buildings, with only the 18th-century clock tower visible from the outside, it must be entered before you can view its most interesting feature: the beautiful blueand-white Cantonese ceramic floor tiles—each individual tile hand-painted, so no two are alike. Above, glorious Belgian chandeliers dangle from the ceiling. At one end of the hall, old Torah scrolls are kept behind the gilded doors of the holy tabernacle. At press time, only a handful of Jews were living in Cochin, though they uphold the traditions of their ancestors, and the synagogue is moving testament to the effects of the Diaspora. The number remaining are not enough to form a minyan (the number of men needed to sustain a synagogue), so Jews from outlying areas travel to Cochin to worship in this historic Judaic monument. The synagogue elders are understandably concerned about tourist numbers, and numerous signs warn that NO ONE IS ALLOWED UPSTAIRS, NO ONE IS ALLOWED INSIDE THE PULPIT, and NO ONE IS ALLOWED TO TOUCH ANYTHING. Jew Town Rd., Mattancherry. Admission Rs 2 (5¢). No video. Sun–Thurs 10am–noon and 3–5pm; closed for Jewish holidays.

India’s earliest European church was originally constructed in wood, but this was replaced by a stone structure in 1546. It was also originally Roman Catholic, but under the British it became Anglican. Vasco da Gama was originally buried here when he died in Cochin on Christmas Eve, 1524; although his body was later moved to Lisbon, he is still memorialized here with a tombstone. Having passed through the hands of Franciscan friars, Dutch Protestants, and Anglicans, the presiding Church of South India continues to hold its services here every morning at 8am. Note that, as at Hindu temples and Muslim mosques, you are required to remove your shoes before entering.

St. Francis Church

Church St., Fort Cochin. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm; Sun 9:30am–noon.

Pope Paul IV elevated this Portuguese church to a cathedral in 1558, but the original building was destroyed by the British in 1795. A new building was commissioned on the same site in 1887; it was declared a basilica in 1984 by Pope John Paul II. The basilica’s interiors are worth a look, especially the

Santa Cruz Basilica

Black Gold In Kerala, pepper is still referred to as karuthu ponnu, or “black gold,” and represents the backbone of the state’s international spice trade. Although the furious trade around spices has subsided considerably these days, the sorting houses, warehouses, and auction houses from which these valuable products find their way to the rest of the world still operate in much the same way they have for centuries (though given the current crises surrounding many of the traditional cash crops, there is a possibility that these side-street sights will not be around forever). Ask your guide or auto-rickshaw driver to take you to the ginger, black pepper, betel nut, and Ayurvedic medicine warehouses, reminiscent of Salman Rushdie’s The Moor’s Last Sigh; or head for the Kochi International Pepper Exchange (Jew Town Rd., Mattancherry), which you can visit from Monday to Saturday (10am–5pm) to see Kerala’s black gold being furiously sold off to the highest bidder. Call & 0484/222-4263 to organize a pass.

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caryatids and exquisite stained glass. If the basilica is closed, ask the priest, who lives in the same complex, if he will open it for you. Parade Rd. and K. B. Jacob Rd., near Bastion St., Fort Cochin. www.sanatcruzbasilica.org. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm; Sun morning Mass only.

WHERE TO STAY The best area to stay is Fort Cochin. Alternatively, opt for Willingdon Island or Vypeen Island, just across the bay. Ernakulam is a busy, rather ugly city but it does have more affordable accommodations, and Fort Cochin is then a short, pleasant ferry journey away. A general note of caution: If you plan to be in Cochin in December or January, be sure to book well in advance. If you don’t mind being far from the ambience of Fort Cochin and the harbor, a truly upscale option is the new Le Meridien (NH 47 Bypass, Kundannur Junction, Kochi 682 304; & 0484/270-5777 or -5451; from $175). Guests have access to a superb range of resort facilities and services, including a top-rated Ayurvedic spa— check it out on www.cochin.lemeridien.com. If, on the other hand, you want a budget to mid-range option, and everything in Fort Cochin is full, consider a stay on Vypeen Island, where you can get quality Ayurvedic massages at laid-back Cherai Beach Resorts , 30km (18 miles) north of Cochin by road, or 15km (91⁄3 miles) from the Vypeen jetty. Offering both beach and backwaters, this is a good option for those in search of a little relaxation. Ask for a heritage cottage with an open-air bathroom and patio on stilts overlooking the backwaters. Although the newer rooms are sleeker, they lack the charm of the heritage cottages, with their bamboo and canework. The resort is simple, but the Ayurvedic rejuvenation massages are excellent, and you get decent Kerala food. Staff are helpful and friendly. The rate offers very good value (& 0484/ 248-1818 or 0484/241-6949; www.cheraibeachresorts.com; Rs 1,000–Rs 4,000/ $23–$90). Note: The prices below are sometimes given in rupees, with U.S. dollar conversions. But a number of others are given in U.S. dollars only or in euros with U.S. dollar conversions—which is how hotels targeting foreign markets quote their rates. FORT COCHIN

If you’re on a tight budget, consider Spencer’s Tourist Home (Parade Rd.; & 0484/ 221-5049; [emailprotected]), which has rooms with attached bathrooms for Rs 400 to Rs 1,000 ($9.10–$23). Located in a lovely 300-year-old house with a shared sitting room and a garden, its guest rooms are spotlessly clean and spacious, and the beds are comfortable. The Brunton Boatyard Hotel Situated at the water’s edge on the site of a bustling boatyard, this is considered by most to be Fort Cochin’s most elegant hotel. A smart whitewashed colonial warehouse-style building with sloping tiled roofs, deep verandas, and terra-cotta floors set around a large open grassy courtyard, Brunton certainly captures the gracious ambience of a bygone era. An open-plan lobby—decked out with a billiards table, antique furniture, and overhead fans—spills into spacious passages that lead to the guest rooms, all of which overlook the busy harbor. Each room has its own balcony from which to enjoy views of the fishing boats and ferries that cruise between the islands; those on the second floor are better for views. Original and reproduction antiques include typical Kerala four-poster beds, high enough off the ground to make the footstools a necessity. A sunset cruise from the hotel’s own jetty is a great way to kick off the evening. The only possible drawback to staying here

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is the hotel’s proximity to the boatyard—you are literally berthed steps away from the very active waterways, though others may argue that the low-level soundtrack lends an air of authenticity. Near Aspinwall, Calvathy, Fort Cochin. & 0484/221-5461, -5462, -5463, -5464, –5465, or 0484/221-5557. Fax 0484/221-5562. [emailprotected]. www.cghearth.com. 26 units. $260–$280 sea-facing double; $360–$410 deluxe suite. $40 extra person. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; tea lounge; pool; Ayurvedic center; sunset cruise; boat rental; car hire; business facilities; shop; room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, scale, electronic safe. Suites include personal butler, kitchenette.

This small heritage hotel, built by the Dutch East India Company in 1668, features huge, airy, simple guest rooms. The rooms have teak ceilings and floors and both traditional and antique furniture, as well as attached bathrooms and modern amenities. Ask for an upstairs room, preferably with air-conditioning and a private balcony. There are two double suites in a newer building, but avoid these— they lack atmosphere and are rather dowdy. After a full day of sightseeing, you can return for a wonderful Ayurvedic massage and steam bath. Or relax in the lovely upstairs lounge, where there’s a romantic swing and chaise longue in which you can curl up with a book from the small library. Fresh, local seafood is served in the Heritage Zone restaurant. Service is patchy, but the rates are great.

Fort Heritage

1/283 Napier St., Elphinstone Rd., Fort Cochin. & 0484/221-5333, -6901, or -5455. Fax 0484/221-5333. www. fortheritage.com. 12 units. $59 heritage double; $85 deluxe suite. $10 extra bed. Rates include breakfast and taxes. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; steam; Internet access; houseboat hire; travel assistance; sightseeing arrangements; car hire; Ayurvedic massage; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV.

The best features of this small budget hotel are undoubtValue edly its location right on the waterfront—it even has a private jetty and a boat—and its homey, laid-back atmosphere, centered around a garden with pleasant outdoor seating. You can request to dine on the jetty, or sit there all day watching the world go by. Standard veranda rooms are clean and basic, and beds have mosquito nets; bamboo rooms are more atmospheric and, in typical traditional Kerala style, dimly lit. There’s a pleasant cafe, but you are welcome to buy your own fish and vegetables and ask that the cook prepare them—or even try your hand at experimenting with owner Nova Thomas’s Portuguese-inspired recipes. Local guides and sightseeing can be arranged, and an in-house tailor can whip up casual clothing in a matter of hours at incredibly low prices. Though it has no pool, Fort House has an arrangement with Malabar House that allows guests to swim there for a Rs 200 ($4.55) fee. Bottom line: What Fort House lacks in amenities and heritage, it makes up for in price.

The Fort House

2/6 A, Calvathy Rd., Cochin 682 001. & 0484/221-7103 or 989/519-6236. www.forthousecochin.com. [emailprotected]. 9 units. Rs 1,400–Rs 1,800 ($32–$43) A/C double, Rs 950–Rs 1,200 ($22–$27) non-A/C double. Rates include breakfast. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; travel desk; boat rental; room service; babysitting on request; laundry and dry cleaning; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C (2 rooms only).

Malabar House Residency Bright, vibrant colors infuse this 18thValue century mansion with a contemporary edge, creating a boutique hotel that is charmingly arty without being pretentious. Conceived, converted, and run by Joerg Drechsel and his Basque wife, Txuku, Malabar House is a chunky white colonial British bungalow at the edge of the Parade Maidan, a grassy expanse for schoolboy cricketers and frolicking goats. Its tharavadu-style sloping terra-cotta roof is typically Keralan, while the tropical inner courtyard (trees, potted shrubs, and stone pathways) features a lovely plunge pool, wooden foldaway chairs, a small open-air theater area, and a covered restaurant. Rooms feature waxed black Kadapa stone floors offset by

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bright red or yellow walls and, in some rooms, a hint of turquoise. Each contains a selection of paintings, sculptures, and period furniture reflecting the cultural heritage of Kerala, while the beds, solid in every sense, are made from carved teak and rosewood. Discarded pillars from traditional 18th-century Tamil Nadu houses up the atmosphere ante and dramatically enhance the use of space in the generous suites. Five of the (marginally more) expensive guest suites have private roof gardens—these are the best on offer in the main house; alternatively, book room no. 4. Best of all, book a room in the Trinity annex just across the street, with its own plunge pool and sun deck—it’s worth every penny, with tasteful designs and probably the best bathrooms in Cochin (large, open-air, beautifully painted, with sunken zinc shower, plants, flowers, and a shivalingam, a carved stone phallic symbol). Although you don’t have views of the harbor, this hotel is better value than Brunton and scores high on privacy, class, and tranquillity. And if this doesn’t convert you, it was also the first operation in India to be certified by Green Globe, the global environmental certification program for travel and tourism. 1/268, 1/269 Parade Rd., Fort Cochin 682 001. & 0484/221-6666. Fax 0484/221-7777. www.malabarhouse.com. 17 units. 110€–210€ ($136–$260) deluxe double; 175€–325€ ($217–$404) Malabar suite, 145€–275€ ($180–$343) roof garden suite. 25€ ($31) extra bed. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; Ayurvedic spa; bicycles; boat rental; airline bookings; travel desk; car hire; currency exchange; boutique; 24-hr. room service; babysitting (with prior notice); laundry; doctor-on-call; tailor. In room: A/C, TV, mosquito net.

The Old Courtyard This pleasant, intimate heritage hotel, located in the heart of Fort Cochin’s quiet back streets, is well maintained, and accommodations are generally well priced. Each of the eight guest rooms in the 200-year-old Portuguese mansion is different, but all have wooden floors and high beamed ceilings, and most are furnished largely with antique furniture. The rooms are located in wings that lead off a central cobblestone courtyard, which has its own working well. Adjacent to the courtyard is a semi-enclosed restaurant serving a wide range of cuisines; traditional dances are performed here during the season. Premium rooms and suites have lovely original Portuguese four-poster beds and large, clean bathrooms (the cheapest room is strictly for bargain-hunters). A good option if you’re looking for a heritage atmosphere, but service is a drawback. 1/371–372 Princess St., Fort Cochin 682 001. & 0484/221-6302. www.oldcourtyard.com. 8 units. Rs 2,000 ($46) regular non-A/C double, Rs 3,000 ($68) superior non-A/C double, Rs 3,500 ($80) premium non-A/C double, Rs 4,000 ($91) superior A/C double, Rs 4,500 ($103) premium A/C double; Rs 4,500 ($103) suite. Rs 500–Rs 750 ($12–$17) extra bed. Children under 12 free in parent’s room. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; cultural performances; travel assistance; airport transfers; currency exchange; laundry; doctor-on-call; small book collection.

WILLINGDON ISLAND

A good option if those hotels below or in Fort Cochin are full is Willingdon’s Casino Hotel (& 0484/266-8221 or -8421; www.cghearth.com; from $90 double, rate includes breakfast). The name may set off alarm bells, suggesting as it does Las Vegas–style showgirls, but the atmosphere of this 1950s hotel is decidedly tame. The Casino has good facilities, staff are hospitable, and accommodations, though nothing to write home about, are clean, relatively spacious, and convenient—the nearest jetty for the harbor ferry to either Fort Cochin or Ernakulam is just over 1km (a half-mile) away. Taj Malabar A hostel built for those traveling by steamship from England is today the Heritage Wing of Willingdon’s only waterfront hotel, an elegant property that includes a more contemporary (and less desirable) pagoda-style low-rise Tower Wing. The generously proportioned Heritage Wing rooms feature wood floors,

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period-style furniture, and assorted knickknacks—make sure to book one with a view of the channel. The chic Ayurvedic center in the Tamara spa occupies its own traditional-style building overlooking the gorgeous rim-flow pool. Enjoy sunset drinks on the pool deck or on one of the hotel’s daily harbor cruises. Or—for those who prefer privacy—book Cinnamon Coast, the private yacht available for hire. Note that the Taj Malabar has two excellent restaurants (see “Where to Dine,” below). Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 009. & 0484/266-6811 or -8010. Fax 0484/266-8297. www.tajhotels.com. malabar. [emailprotected]. 96 units. Tower Wing: $180 superior double, $205 superior sea-view double, $230 deluxe sunsetview double; $325 executive suite. Heritage Wing: $180 superior double, $230 superior sea-view double; $375 deluxe suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; pool; gym; Jacuzzi; Ayurvedic center; travel desk; sightseeing; car hire; boat rental; business center; Wi-Fi enabled; currency exchange; salon; florist; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry; doctor-on-call; valet service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility, hair dryer, electronic safe.

Trident Hilton Cochin This upmarket business hotel is quiet, tasteful, and replete with modern conveniences. Conceived by a Thai architect, the design blends Kerala and Thai elements, and the hotel has the ambience of a large villa. Accommodations surround a pleasant courtyard where you can swim in the pool and dine alfresco. Traditional artifacts and ornaments have been used to capture the ethos of Kerala; wooden cooking implements and earthenware pots converted into lamps adorn the walls, while the entrance is dominated by a giant uruli cooking pot mounted on old black-and-gold snake-boat prows. The modestly sized guest rooms have wooden floors and blue-and-beige decor and furnishings; bathrooms are small with marble surfaces. Bristow Rd., Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003, Kerala. & 0484/266-9595 or -6816. Fax 0484/266-9393. www. trident-hilton.com. [emailprotected]. 85 units. $160 superior double; $265 suite. Ask for daily rates. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; gym; travel desk; sightseeing; car hire; business center; Wi-Fi enabled; currency exchange; gift shop; book shop; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry valet service. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility, hair dryer, electronic safe.

ERNAKULAM

If you can’t get a room at Fort Cochin or Willingdon Island, the following Ernakulam options are worth considering, but do note that all these are far from the main sights. Avenue Regent (39/2026 Mahatma Gandhi Rd.; & 0484/237-7977 or -7688; www. avenueregent.com; from Rs 2,900/$66 double) is a spruce six-floor business hotel located on a busy, noisy main road. Guest rooms are fairly large, with dull Westernstyle decor, potted palm trees, an abundance of floral fabric, and rather soft mattresses. Note that the same owners have opened the smart new Avenue Center Hotel in an attractive white neo-colonial building (Panampilly Ave., Panampilly Nagar, Ernakulam; & 0484/231-5301 or -5302; fax 0484/231-5304; www.avenuecenter.com), where doubles are Rs 1,600 ($37) and up. The Woods Manor (Woodlands Junction, Mahatma Gandhi Rd.; & 0484/238-2055 through -2059; www.thewoodsmanor. com; Rs 2,277–Rs 3,440/$52–$78 double, includes breakfast) is another neat, clean hotel. Set in the center of Ernakulam on a busy street, it has no views (but a great rooftop pool). The sixth-floor “Kerala” guest rooms are centrally air-conditioned. Beds have firm mattresses; the smallish attached bathrooms have small tubs. The hotel is well-located for the railway station and has a 24-hour check-out policy. The Grand (Mahatma Gandhi Rd., Ernakulam 682 011; & 0484/238-2061 or 0484/236-6833; www.grandhotelkerala.com; Rs 1,600–Rs 2,800/$37–$64 double) is Ernakulam’s oldest hotel, but ongoing renovations (begun in 1998) have slowly brought improvements. Deluxe rooms have balconies and large black marble bathrooms. Popular with locals, the Grandeura Bar gets busy in the evenings.

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If you are going to stay in Ernakulam for business reasons, this luxury business hotel, which sits right on the harbor’s edge and has its own jetty, is by far the best option. At press time the hotel was being given a major overhaul for a brighter, trendier look, but you should still make sure to book a harbor-view room. Also overlooking Cochin’s busy port is the popular Bubble Café, a cheerful eatery on a glass-enclosed terrace with tables arranged around a brightly tiled fountain mosaic; or come around sunset and order a drink at the Harbour View bar. Taj Residency

Marine Dr., Ernakulam, Cochin 682 011. & 0484/237-1471. Fax 0484/236-5161. www.tajhotels.com. residency. [emailprotected]. 108 units. $120 standard double, $130 harbor-facing double, $135 sea-facing double; $145 residency (includes breakfast), $200 junior suite (includes breakfast). $20 extra bed. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; patisserie; bar; fitness center; boat rental; sunset cruises; travel desk; car hire; business center; currency exchange; shops; florist; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry; dry cleaning; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities.

B O L G AT T Y I S L A N D Built in 1744 by a Dutch trader and later used as the British Bolgatty Palace

Residency, this government-run hotel occupies 6 hectares (15 acres) of the southern tip of Bolgatty Island. Accessible only by ferry, the setting here is quite lovely, if a little inconvenient for sightseeing and exploring. Most guest rooms are situated in the Kerala courtyard–style Nalukettu Wing, pleasantly refurbished to blend well with the original palace. Accommodations are spacious, with high ceilings, wood furniture, bathtubs, and balconies with sea views. Rather pretentiously named after Dutch master painters—Vermeer, van Gogh, Rembrandt, and others—the massive suites in the original palace mansion have dark teak ceiling beams, reproduction period furniture, large beds, and thick drapery; bathrooms are enormous and have bidets, tubs, and separate glass-enclosed showers. Avoid the “honeymoon cottages” on stilts at the water’s edge; these show signs of damp and disrepair. Kathakali performances, presented by the Bolgatty Performing Arts Centre, are held each night. Bolgatty Island, Mulavukadu, Kochi 682 504, Kerala. & 0484/275-0500 or -0600. Fax 0484/275-0457. bolgatty@ vsnl.com. www.ktdc.com. 26 units. Rs 2,700–Rs 3,450 ($62–$78) waterfront cottage double, Rs 3,000–Rs 4,250 ($68–$97) deluxe double; Rs 4,000–Rs 5,250 ($91–$120) executive suite, Rs 5,500–Rs 7,250 ($126–$165) palace suite. Rates include breakfast and dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; beer parlor; pool; golf course; indoor recreation room; Ayurvedic center; travel assistance; backwater cruise; speedboat; conferencing; board room; currency exchange; limited room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer on request.

WHERE TO DINE Kochi’s best eating establishments are located in the hotels at Fort Cochin and Willingdon. Seafood, always fresh and wonderful, is generally what you should order. Have protection against mosquitoes ready, particularly in outdoor restaurants, where nighttime attacks can be incessant. Fort Cochin SEAFOOD Considered one of the state’s best seafood restaurants, this casual catch-of-the-day semi-alfresco pad is something of a Kerala institution. The atmosphere is charmingly rustic: The excellent food is prepared at an open grill adjacent to a large waist-level fish tank filled with Chinese carp. Tables are set around a huge banyan tree and under light shades made from Chinese fishing baskets. Choose from a range of freshly caught seafood displayed on a cart that makes its way from table to table, and decide how you would like it prepared—grilled whole with heaps of spices, or delicately sliced with subtle herbs; the obliging maitre d’ will help you make up your mind. The popular mixed-seafood platter is a selection of grilled fish, tiger prawns, and other shellfish. Call ahead after 4pm to hear what’s on the evening cart.

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A Traditional Keralite Feast Don’t pass up the opportunity to enjoy a traditional sadhya feast while in Kerala. This multicourse festive-occasion feast, served on a plantain leaf, will give you a very good overview of the state’s cuisine. Expect rice and ghee (unclarified butter), served with various stews and curries with names like sambar, rasam, kootu, pacchadi, appalam, and payasam, all of which will be heaped endlessly upon your ela (leaf). Seafood in Kerala is exquisite and plentiful. A popular dish is meen moilee, a delicate fish curry tempered with fresh coconut milk. Coconut is a staple used in many dishes: Avial is a mixed-vegetable curry prepared with coconut, cumin, and turmeric; and aadu olathiyathu is a coconut-based curry made with cubes of fried mutton. A steamed rice pancake known as appam is very popular and is served with stew.

Casino Hotel, K.P.K. Menon Rd., Willingdon Island. & 0484/266-8221 or -8421. Prices determined on the day and by weight. Mixed-seafood platter Rs 875 ($20). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7–11:45pm.

KERALITE The Terrace Grill, the alfresco section of the superb upstairs restaurant at Brunton Boatyard, serves only seafood platters with assorted lobster, tiger prawns, scampi, shrimp, squid, and catch of the day. Inside, The History serves seafood platters but also has seven cyclical menus that rotate through the week, depending on guest preferences. Most of the recipes are local, many borrowed from the kitchens of Cochin families. Depending on which day of the week you go, you could start with mildly spiced and steamed tiger prawns served with mango chutney, followed by meen pollichathu—fish marinated with shallots and spices, wrapped in a banana leaf, and grilled. Another lovely fish dish is chuttulli meen, marinated according to a local Jewish recipe in pearl onions and green spices. Kuttanadan konju is a delicious, slightly sour curry of king prawns cooked in fenugreek, kokum berries, and coconut milk. If you’ve had your fill of seafood, try tharavupiralan, tender duck cooked in onion and tomato and finished with coconut milk, which is not overly spicy. Another specialty is Chuttirachi, chunks of lamb cooked in a mixture of shallots and spices; it was first prepared by Jew Town’s Hallugua family.

The History & Terrace Grill

The Brunton Boatyard Hotel, 1/498 Fort Cochin, Kochi 682 001. & 0484/221-5461 through -0465. Main courses Rs 275–Rs 450 ($6.25–$10). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:30–10:30pm.

Malabar Junction MALABAR-MEDITERRANEAN FUSION Cochin’s Malabar House Residency is the setting for this fine, sophisticated alfresco restaurant where guests sit in a small area covered by a ceiling of traditional Kerala woodwork, watching (at night) a performance on the adjacent stage. Start off with crispy fried prawns tempura, then have fish curry Malabar, which is rather mild for local tastes (if you prefer it spicy, say so). Chef Suresh also makes good seafood salads and pastas as well as a delicious tuna tartare. Malabar House Residency, 1/268–1/269 Parade Rd., Fort Cochin. & 0484/221-6666. Menu changes regularly, but expect to pay Rs 250–Rs 550 ($5.70–$13) for a main course, Rs 850 ($19) for a seafood platter. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7–10:30am, noon–3pm, and 7–10:30pm.

KERALITE/SEAFOOD One of the places to dine in India, Rice Boat is a small specialty restaurant where guests sit in, well, a rice boat. It’s an excellent place to indulge in fresh seafood, including prawns, lobster, and crab. Find out

Rice Boat

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what the catch of the day is, and have the chef add a touch of Kerala with a spicy, coconut-based gravy. Or get the mixed seafood grill and at least one traditional curry; we recommend the delectable Alleppey prawn curry. Lobster fans should order the amazing lobster olathiyathu (but note that it costs a whopping Rs 2,000/$46 per kilo). Whatever you order, leave room for one of the house-specialty spice ice creams; the Black Pepper Gelato is not to be missed. Taj Malabar, Willingdon Island. & 0484/266-6811 or -8010. Average prices Rs 275–Rs 1,200 ($6.20–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:30–11:30pm.

Thai Pavilion THAI Dishes here not only taste wonderful, they look fabulous, too. Kai haw bai toey is a starter of marinated chicken pieces wrapped in pandanus (a type of pine) leaves and deep-fried. Vegetarians should try man jian—potatoes flavored with ginger, mushroom, pimento, and a light soy sauce—or fok thong kapprao, a delightful combination of pumpkin, basil, and chilies. Here, the spiciness of traditional Thai red curry (gaeng phad) is toned down with coconut milk and fragrant lemon grass; served in a small earthenware bowl, it is prepared with your choice of meat, vegetables, or seafood. There’s a number of stir-fried prawn dishes, each prepared with a delicate blend of spices and herbs—try koong phad kapprao, a hot combination of garlic, chili, and Thai basil leaves. Taj Malabar, Willingdon Island. & 0484/266-6811 or -8010. Main courses Rs 150–Rs 750 ($3.40–$17). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:45pm and 7:30–11:30pm.

SHOPPING Ernakulam has scores of shops trading in Indian artifacts and treasures. However, you’ll have far more fun exploring the antiques dealerships in Mattancherry and Jew Town, most of which are jam-packed with weird, wonderful, and genuine pieces from Kerala’s multifangled past. Cinnamon Don’t be fooled by the gallery-like ambience; the lovely furniture and fashions available here are entirely homegrown. Find fishing nets made into pillowcases, vintage prints of Hindu deities, silk caftans, and designer tunics ideal for the Indian heat. This new addition, a branch of Bangalore’s trendy store, is Cochin’s most fashionable outlet. 1/658 Ridsdale Rd. & 0484/221-7124. Crafters In the heart of historic Mattanchery’s Jew Town, Crafters is an antiques fetishist’s dream come true. A huge selection of antiques ranging from religious curiosities to that perfect doorway are displayed in three different outlets and piled up in massive warehouses that will leave your jaw hanging open. After you’ve had a really good poke around, you can have your purchase shipped abroad. VI/141, Jew Town. & 0484/2223346, -7652, or 0484/221-2210. www.craftersantique.com. Galleria Synagogue Art Gallery Local artists are well represented at this Jew Town art gallery, where you can purchase works by some of Cochin’s most celebrated artists. 6/8 Jew Town. & 0484/222-2544 or -1458. www.galleriasynagogue.com.

COCHIN AFTER DARK When the sun starts to sink, you should be on a harbor cruise or watching the boats from either the Taj Malabar on Willingdon Island or the Taj Residency in Ernakulam—both sit more or less at the water’s edge and offer different venues for cocktails. After this, a Kathakali or Kalaripayattu demonstration (see below) can easily fill the gap before a fine seafood dinner.

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Kathakali & Kalaripayattu: Kerala’s Colorful Art Forms A stay in Cochin affords you the opportunity to sample Kerala’s best-known classical art form—Kathakali, a performance style that delves into the world of demons, deities, soldiers, sages, and satyrs, taken from Indian epics such as the Mahabharata. Combining various theatrical and performance elements, it is said to have developed during the 16th century under the auspices of the Raja of Kottaraka, and today the best Kathakali school is in Kalamandalam, founded by a poet named Vallathol Narayan Menon in 1930. Here, students undergo a rigorous training program that lasts 6 years and includes massage techniques, extensive make-up training, and knowledge of the precise and subtle finger, body, and eye movements that constitute the language and grand emotions of Kathakali. There is also a host of instruments that may be mastered, as no performance is without musical accompaniment. So striking are the costumes, make-up, and jewelry associated with this form of dance-theater, that the image of the elaborately adorned, heavily made-up, and almost masklike face of the Kathakali performer has become the state’s most recognizable icon. Performers employ exaggerated facial expressions (only enhanced by the make-up—bright paint applied thickly to the face) and a highly technical set of symbolic hand gestures (known as mudras). Vocalists and musicians help set the mood, utilizing the chengila (gong), elathalam (small cymbals), and chenda and maddalam (drums). Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire nights, often as part of festival events. In Cochin, however, a number of Kathakali groups stage short extracts of the longer pieces specifically for tourist consumption. Kerala is also renowned for its unique martial arts form: the supremely acrobatic Kalaripayattu, believed to be the oldest defense-combat system in the world. Apparently discovered in ancient times by traveling Buddhist monks who needed to protect themselves against marauding bandits, Kalaripayattu is believed to predate more recognizable forms, like kung-fu, that emerged farther east. For demonstrations of Kathakali and Kalaripayattu, see recommendations below.

K AT H A K A L I P E R F O R M A N C E S

In Fort Cochin, Kerala Kathakali (River Rd.; & 0484/221-5827) hosts the best Kathakali demonstration in the city (see “Kathakali & Kalaripayattu: Kerala’s Colorful Art Forms,” above). This rustic, atmospheric “theater” also hosts occasional cultural events showcasing diverse dance forms and Karnatic music (the classical music of southern India). Performances are held daily from 6:30 to 8pm, with makeup demonstrations from 5pm; admission is Rs 100 ($2.30). Note that alongside the theater is Old Port Restaurant (& 0484/221-5341), a good venue for pre- or postshow meals; fresh fish dishes and various Keralite specialties are served right near the water’s edge (bring mosquito repellent for both the show and the restaurant). If you’re interested in attending a proper all-night Kathakali performance at a temple, speak to one of the organizers at Kerala Kathakali; some of their top performers are often involved in authentic rituals. Other Kathakali venues worth noting are Fort Cochin’s (air-conditioned) Cochin Cultural Centre (CC 2/10–A, near Seagull Hotel, Calvetty Rd.; & 0484/221-6911), which has daily shows from 6:30pm, but get there by 5:30pm to watch the artists

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putting on their elaborate make-up. Music, dance, and other performances are sometimes held at Draavidia Art and Performance Gallery (1/2002 YMCA Rd., Fort Cochin). K A L A R I PAYAT T U P E R F O R M A N C E S

While there are a number of dedicated training schools (kalaris) where Kerala’s traditional martial arts form, Kalaripayattu, is taught for its intended purpose, it is usually performed in a staged environment for tourists. Shiva Shakti Kalari Kshetram (Kaloor, Ernakulam; & 98952-90635 or 0484/253-9453) holds daily demonstrations of Kalaripayattu; the institute also provides training and Ayurvedic massage based on principles derived from the art of Kalari.

2 The Backwaters Alleppey is 1,150km (713 miles) SE of Mumbai

Kerala’s backwaters comprise a web of waterways that forms a natural inland transport network stretching from Cochin, the northern gateway, to Kollam (or Quilon), the backwaters’ southernmost town. At its heart is Vembanad Lake, on the shores of which lie the top-notch resorts of Kumarakom and nearby Bird Sanctuary. Inland, just 12km (71⁄2 miles) east of Kumarakom, is Kottayam, the bustling town described by Arundhati Roy in her Booker Prize–winning The God of Small Things. Located at the foot of the Western Ghats, it has two historically significant (but ultimately missable) early Syrian Christian churches. Kumarakom has by far the best accommodations, but unless you’re a keen birder, there’s not a great deal to do here. Idle away the hours on a houseboat cruise, indulge in Ayurvedic therapies, and laze under the tropical sun—that’s about as busy as your day is likely to get. Between November and March, the local Bird Sanctuary becomes home to numerous migratory flocks, many of which fly in from Siberia. Regularly seen here are little cormorants, darters (or snake birds), night herons, golden-backed woodpeckers, tree pies, and crow pheasants. Given its exclusivity and sublime setting, Kumarakom does not offer accommodations for budget-oriented travelers; for that you’ll need to look farther south to Alleppey (or Alappuzha), also the focal point of backwater cruises.

Snake Boat Races Every year Kerala’s backwater canals host the world’s largest team sport, when scores of streamlined chundan vallams, the ram-snouted boats commonly known as snake boats, are propelled across the waters at impressive speeds, cheered on by an exuberant audience. Typically, snake boats are manned by four helmsmen, 25 singers, and up to 100 oarsmen rowing in unison to the terrific rhythm of the vanchipattu, or “song of the boatman.” The oldest and most popular event is the Champakulam Moolam Boat Race, held in monsoonsoaked July, but the most famous water battle is undoubtedly the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, held on the second Saturday of August on the Punnamada backwaters of Alleppey in conjunction with Kerala’s important Onam harvest festival. Tickets for the event, which features at least 16 competing chundan vallams and attracts thousands of excited supporters, are available from the District Tourism Promotion Council office (see “Visitor Information,” below).

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Home to the coir (fibers made from coconut husks) industry, Alleppey once bore the nickname “Venice of the East” because of its famed palm-fringed canal network, the intricate byways and narrow streams that allow boats to transport huge bales of coconut fibers. Of the many snake boat races (see “Snake Boat Races,” below) that take place in the backwaters throughout the year, Alleppey’s Nehru Trophy event is the most significant. If you’re keen to witness the event, it may be useful to find accommodations close to town. The entire backwaters region is a tranquil paradise, and sustains a delightfully laidback way of life that has endured for centuries—perfect for sultry, languid, do-nothing houseboat adventures that take you into the heart of Kerala country life. Besides booking into one of the resorts recommended below, a trip on a specially converted kettuvallam is a must (see “Hiring a Houseboat,” below).

ESSENTIALS VISITOR INFORMATION The authority responsible for dishing out information to visitors is the District Tourism Promotion Council, which has various offices in the different backwaters towns. In Alleppey, it’s on Boat Jetty Road (& 0477/2253308; daily 9:30am–5pm). In Kollam, there are tourism centers at the bus stand and at the railway station. In Kottayam, you can contact the District Tourism Office (& 0481/256-0479; Mon–Fri 10am–5pm). If your main interest is houseboats, contact TourIndia Holidays (see “Hiring a Houseboat,” below). GETTING THERE By Road Taxis are easily available in all major towns and cities. From Cochin a taxi should cost about Rs 600 ($14) and get you to Kottayam in about 11⁄2 hours. By Air For the northern backwater towns, the nearest airport is at Cochin (Kochi); to save time you’ll probably want to head down the 76km (47-mile) road by car to Kottayam (for Kumarakom) or Alleppey (for a backwater cruise). For Kollam, located at the backwaters’ southern end, Thiruvananthapuram Airport is 66km (40 miles) away. By Train Though there are railheads in Kottayam (for Kumarakom), Alleppey, and Kollam, your best bet is to get to Trivandrum or Cochin and then head out by road. GETTING AROUND By Water-Taxi & Ferry Kottayam, Alleppey, and Kollam are all connected by ferries that ply the route daily. State Water Transport Department ferries between Alleppey and Kottayam depart from the tourist boat jetty near the bus station. Ferries between Alleppey and Kollam take 8 hours, departing from both the Alleppey and Kollam boat jetties at 10:30am and arriving in Kollam/Alleppey around 6:30pm. GUIDED TOURS & CRUISES Alleppey’s helpful District Tourism Promotion Council (Boat Jetty, Alleppey; & 0477/225-3308) has a daily backwater cruise to Kuttanad and back. The 3-hour trip departs at 10am and costs Rs 100 ($2.30). DTPC also offers private cruises for Rs 200 ($4.55) per hour; a cruise to Kumarakom takes 7 hours. See “Hiring a Houseboat,” below, for guided overnight trips on traditional houseboats. Alternatively, any of the accommodations listed below can organize backwaters cruises or speedboat trips for you.

CRUISING THE BACKWATERS Reset your watch to a rhythm of life that has gone unchanged for centuries by boarding a kettuvallam, the long, beautifully crafted cargo boats that ply the waterways with cargo (if you don’t mind being referred to as such). An engineering feat, a kettuvallam

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Cruising Kerala on the World’s Smallest Luxury Liner Leave it to Oberoi to take the traditional backwater cruise to new heights with the MV Vrinda—not exactly a liner, but the ultimate in luxury on Kerala’s backwaters, and very Agatha Christie. After all, only on board the MV Vrinda can you find yourself watching life along the river from a comfy rattan chair on the breezy upper-deck lounge, or from your plush settee in the air-conditioned dining room while staff keep a watchful eye out for a raised finger. On the first night, you dock at Lake Vembanad for dinner (a thoroughly elegant affair accompanied by local entertainment), then bed down in one of only eight smart cabins, each decked out with luxuries like TV and DVD, en-suite showers, and lovely king-size beds. The following day, the boat makes its way to Lake Pamba, where you can climb aboard a small rice boat to explore the narrower backwaters. Three nights later you wend your way back to Cochin. Typical of the Oberoi, food is outstanding and you are treated like royalty—perfect if you prefer to see Kerala in a somewhat sanitized manner and sans its blemishes. The package costs $1,900 all-inclusive for 4 nights (3 on the cruiser, 1 at the Trident Hilton Cochin). For reservations, call the Oberoi at & 1600/11-2030 (www.oberoihotels.com).

is made from lengths of ironwood, anjili, or jackwood, and not a single nail is used in the construction—it’s joined together with thick coir ropes. The boat is then sealed with fish oil and coated with a black caustic resin produced by boiling cashew kernels. Today, numerous houseboat operators work out of the Alleppey area, but the original concept of turning cargo boats into tourist cruise vessels was the brainchild of Babu Varghese of TourIndia, an outfit that remains the top operator in the backwaters, with excellent guides and innovative boat designs that are upgraded annually. Varghese transformed the kettuvallam into a livable houseboat by expanding the original size to include two or three rooms, a flush toilet, a functioning shower, and a small viewing or sunbathing platform. Bamboo scaffolding is constructed over the hull, and a thatched roof of plaited palm leaves and walls of bamboo matting are added to create a rustic but very comfortable floating dwelling. With designs that owe some allegiance to the Chinese junk but that more closely resemble a small Sydney Opera House, these beautiful crafts may be propelled by pole (if you’re in no particular hurry) or by a small, quiet motor. The houseboat experience allows you to aimlessly drift past villages, temples, and churches and be thoroughly exposed to the rural lifestyle of the backwaters. As if you’re on the very large set of a reality TV show, you can watch as women, unperturbed by your drifting presence, wash their long ebony tresses or pound away at laundry; children play at the water’s edge and men dive for mussels; and elephants and water buffalo wade at will. Fishermen suavely holding umbrellas above their heads suddenly drift by, their nets at the ready, while floating vendors using single-log canoes and other modest craft deliver commodities such as rice and coir fiber. On the shore, toddy tappers whisk up palm trees (note that you can ask to stop at a village to buy unforeseen necessities like beer or coconut toddy); see “Toddy Tappers,” below. And when the sun sets, the sky lights up in magnificent shades of orange and red. Gliding

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past the rural communities that cling to the banks is without a doubt one of the most relaxing and romantic ways to witness a timeless lifestyle, where people rely on impossibly tiny tracts of land to cultivate subsistence crops and keep a few animals, using slender jackfruit wood canoes to get around, deliver goods, and do a spot of fishing. Kettuvallam houseboats are available at various levels of luxury, and may be rented for short trips or for sleep-in journeys of several days. Try to spend at least one night on board, since the major attractions are watching the setting sun and witnessing the lakeside activities of households at dawn and dusk. A great plan is to have a houseboat collect you from one resort (we suggest Coconut Lagoon or Kumarakom) and drop you off at your next destination (say, Kayaloram Lake Resort or—if your budget won’t stretch that far—Keraleeyam Lake Resort). While the general idea is to wind your way aimlessly through the waterways, one of the most popular stop-off points for visitors is Mata Amritanandamayi Ashram (& 0476/289-6179 or -6278), home of a female guru endearingly known as the Hugging Mother. Another possible stop is Champakulam, where 500-year-old St. Mary’s Church shows definite traces of Hindu influence, from a small statue of Christ assuming a pose typical of Krishna, to the custom of leaving one’s footwear outside. H I R I N G A H O U S E B O AT

TourIndia Holidays has a number of houseboats in a range of designs and accommodations to suit your requirements. These feature solar-panel power and heating, bio-toilets, and an average cruising speed of 8 to 10km (5–6 miles) per hour. Although the facilities might strike some as rather basic, you’ll be spoiled rotten by your private team—a guide, a cook, and a pilot—who work hard to make your experience unique and exceptional (and discreetly manage to leave you to experience the backwaters in peace). Meals are authentic Kerala fare—served on a plantain leaf and eaten with your fingers. Bring your own drinks if you want something other than mineral water. And if you’re curious about Kerala cuisine, you’re welcome to observe proceedings in the tiny kitchen at the rear end of the boat. For reservations, contact TourIndia at Post Box no. 163, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Trivandrum 695 001; & 0471/233-0437 or -1507; fax 0471/233-1407; www.tourindiakerala.com. Other reliable houseboat operators are Spice Coast Cruises (House Boats, Puthenangadi, Alleppey; & 0484/266-8221 or 0478/258-2615; spicecoastcruise@ cghearth.com), run by the excellent Kerala-based Casino Hotel group; and Soma Houseboats (Nehru Trophy Finishing Point, Thathampally P.O., Alleppey; & 0477/ 226-8101; reservations: Chowara P.O., Trivandrum 695 501; & 0471/226-8101; www.somahouseboats.com). Expect to pay between $150 and $250 per night for a one-bedroom houseboat. For the ultimate in luxury, see “Cruising Kerala on the World’s Smallest Luxury Liner,” above.

Toddy Tappers For generations, agile young village men have been clambering up coconut palms to tap into the sweet sap known as toddy, or kallu. Like their fathers and their fathers’ fathers, these “toddy tappers” have made a good living over the years harvesting the sap to drink right away (sweet and refreshing, but definitely an acquired taste) or to ferment into an alcoholic drink. The morning’s toddy is already a heady tipple by evening—by the next day, it’s prodigiously potent.

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WHERE TO STAY ON LAND KUMARAKOM Coconut Lagoon

If private alfresco showers and hammocks rather than Kids room service and television are your idea of bliss, then this is your kind of lakeside idyll (and was for Paul McCartney). Comprising reassembled wooden tharavads (traditional Kerala houses) set among coconut trees, hibiscus flowers, and specially grafted orchids, and boasting quite splendid views of Lake Vembanad and the Kavanar River, it’s not surprising that this family-friendly resort is one of the most popular in Kerala. Most accommodations are in the traditional tharavads—choose between duplex-style mansions (nos. 201–204 have views of the lake) or simpler heritage bungalows (nos. 219–221, 223, and 225–228 face the river). Some of the homes here date back to the early 1700s, and each historic teak, anjili, or jackfruit building has been reassembled according to ancient carpentry rules known as thachu shashtra. The emphasis here is on providing an authentic Kerala feel and having as little impact as possible on the natural environment. Indeed, much of the resort’s rustic charm lies in its simplicity; guest rooms are uncluttered and furnished with traditional Kerala cane and teak pieces, and have neither TVs nor (less satisfactorily) room service. Rooms were recently refurbished, and if the hotel is not too busy, ask if you can look around and pick yours. Better still, splurge on a pool cottage, which (you guessed it) has its own private pool and is situated right at the river’s edge.

Kumarakom, Kottayam, Kerala. Contact c/o Casino Hotel, Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003, Kerala. & 0481/2525834 through -5836. Fax 0481/252-4495. www.cghearth.com. [emailprotected]. 50 units. $173–$200 bungalow; $220–$245 mansion; $350–$410 pool villa. $40 extra person. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; traditional performances; pool (cottages also have private pools); Ayurvedic center; houseboat; boat shuttle service; sunset cruise; hamper service; butterfly garden; village walks; bird-sanctuary visits; cooking demonstrations; shop; 48-hr. external laundry service. In room: A/C, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility.

Situated on the edge of Vembanad Lake, in a remote, tranquil location, this is the swankiest and best of Kumarakom’s backwater resorts. Like so many, it comprises exquisite tharavadu-style carved teak and rosewood houses with curved terra-cotta tiled roofs, many of them reassembled originals salvaged from Kerala villages. The interiors are decidedly more luxurious than those of their neighbors, however, with exquisite antiques and lovely examples of temple mural art. Each room has a beautiful, private small garden into which an open-to-the-air sunken bathtub and granite-floored drench showers have been installed. The cheaper lake-facing cottages offer the best value for money—they have a truly authentic heritage feel and are perfect for enjoying the setting sun (standard villas face a canal that reaches all the way to the lobby). In the resort’s newest section, a second meandering freshwater pool snakes its way past the private balconies of luxurious cottages—which means you can swim around the property directly from your back door (which may

Kumarakom Lake Resort

Mohiniattam: The Dance of the Enchantress Mohiniattam is another classical dance form, and one of the few performed by a woman. Dressed in white and gold, with her hair gathered and adorned with jasmine, the dancer performs graceful, gliding movements together with elaborate mudras and exaggerated facial expressions. Any resort promising evening shows that showcase the region’s performance arts (like Coconut Lagoon and Spice Village) will include at least one act of Mohiniattam.

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Dining-Room Murder The beautiful dining room at the Coconut Lagoon is apparently part of the house where the awful murder in Arundhati Roy’s The God of Small Things actually occurred. The acclaimed writer has been very critical of the removal and reassembly of Kerala’s traditional homes in what she calls “theme park” resorts, but resort owners argue that they have saved these historic properties from certain destruction. (The dining room at the Coconut Lagoon is not haunted, by the way, and the food is good.)

compromise your privacy, however, because others can choose to do the same). Should you fancy a night or two on the lake, the resort has two of its own fully equipped houseboats. The resort is also home to an excellent restaurant and an extensive Ayurvedic spa—one of Kerala’s best, offering a wide range of treatments. And if that isn’t enough to persuade you, staff are wonderfully efficient and go all out to make you feel like royalty. Kumarakom N., Kottayam 686 566. & 0481/252-4900, -4501, -5020, or -5021. Fax 0481/252-4987 or toll-free 1 600 425 5030. www.klresort.com. [emailprotected]. 50 units plus 3 houseboats. $195–$250 heritage garden-view villa, $225-300 heritage lake-view and meandering pool villa, $300–$375 meandering pool duplex villa. $50–$125 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. Tariffs increase Dec 10–Jan 10, plus Christmas/New Year’s dinner supplements. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 pools; gymnasium; Jacuzzi; Ayurvedic center; yoga; billiards; table tennis; children’s play area; activity room; travel desk; sightseeing; business center; currency exchange; curio shop; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry; computer rentals. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, electronic safe.

Taj Garden Retreat, Kumarakom This charming resort sits around the edges of a lagoon linked to Vembanad Lake by a narrow channel, just moments away from Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary. It’s in much the same price range as the buzzier Coconut Lagoon, but the advantage here is near-absolute peace and privacy. Built in the late 1800s, Baker Bungalow was home to four generations of the Baker missionary family before the Taj group converted it into a tranquil resort. Lake-facing guest cottages (nos. 7–17 have the best views) have spacious bedrooms and small private patios that look directly onto the resort’s private lagoon—even the lovely bathrooms have views, albeit of a tiny paved courtyard decorated with tall, narrow clay pots. For a few dollars more, the four cottages situated at the pool have slightly bigger bedrooms; ask for no. 18, since it overlooks the length of the lake. If it’s colonial history you want, reserve one of the five massive rooms in the original Baker Bungalow. Furnished with antiques, these, too, have their own romantic atmosphere. Alternatively, you can stay in one of two air-conditioned, permanently moored houseboats, each with two roomy bedrooms, bathroom with tub, and attached private deck. The resort organizes romantic dinner cruises with music and entertainment on a kettuvallam. 1/404, Kumarakom, Kottayam 686 563. & 0481/252-4377, 0481/252-5711, or -5712 through -5716. Fax 0481/2524371. www.tajhotels.com. [emailprotected]. 28 units. $160 standard lake-view and houseboat double, $200 cottage lake-view double, $225 deluxe lake- and pool-view double; $400 luxury villa with private pool. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; Ayurvedic center; fitness center; bicycle rentals; backwater cruises; watersports (wind sailing, water skiing); boating (speedboats, kayaking, canoeing, rowboats, water skis, water scooters); fishing; bird-watching; cultural performances; indoor games; travel desk; business center; currency exchange; florist; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer (all except standard).

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KO T TAYA M Lake Village Heritage Resort

This is far from the best lagoon resort, but the rates aren’t bad (they include all meals), and if you get the room choice right, you can literally fish from your balcony. The resort is set amid banana trees and manicured lawns, and its best accommodations are (predictably) in a series of reconstructed traditional Kerala mansions that have been converted to include indoor/outdoor bathrooms—book no. 104 or 105 for the balconies that project over the river, or no. 117 or 118, which create the impression of being surrounded by water. Cottages are on two levels, with bedrooms on the upper floors; room interiors are a little dark and uninspiring. An open-air Kerala cuisine eatery, cultural performances at the mandapam, boat rides in chundan vallams, and an Ayurvedic center make up for views of the adjoining Windsor “Castle” Hotel—this is, incidentally, where you have to check in, and guests have access to all the Windsor Castle facilities. Note: Don’t confuse Lake Village Heritage Resort with the super-kitschy and awful Vembanad Lake Resort next door.

Kottayam 686 039. & 0481/236-3637 or -3638. Fax 0481/236-3738. www.thewindsorcastle.net. 47 units including 7 cottages. $115–$165 double. $12 extra bed. Rates include all meals. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; pastry shop; bar; 2 pools; Ayurvedic center; car hire; boat rental (house, row, and pedal); boat jetty; currency exchange; salon; 24-hr. room service; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.

This is a real gem, ideal for those who find the Kids Value whole resort experience a little pretentious. Here you get to experience first-hand the hospitality of a local farming family, albeit in the privacy of your very own waterfront cottage, surrounded by 18 hectares (45 acres) that include banana, mango, nutmeg, coconut, and pepper plantations. The first cottage was designed by Karl Damschen, a Swiss architect who combined traditional Keralite design—open-plan living, carved wooden doors, and a veranda—with personal touches. The breezy, homey cottages, named after flowers growing in the courtyard, are filled with antiques, and the en-suite bathrooms are modern; we recommend you book Ashokam or Mandheerama (these are more spacious). Hosts Vinod and Anu Mathew treat guests as part of the family yet provide privacy (they stay in a separate house) and time to soak up the tranquillity. Vinod’s mother and Anu are the kitchen genies, preparing three marvelous feasts a day, and you’re welcome to watch them cooking in the kitchen. Ask for your breakfast to be served in the pleasant open-air pavilion. The only real drawback is that there’s no pool, but some guests venture into the waters of Vembanad Lake. As it is, you’re taken on informative excursions of the plantations and get to enjoy a free backwater cruise on a canoe. Children are warmly welcomed.

Philipkutty’s Farm

Pallivathukal, Ambika Market P.O., Vechoor, Kottayam. & 04829/27-6529, -6530, or 98950-75130. www.philipkuttys farm.com. 5 units. Rs 7,900 ($180) double. Rs 1,000 ($23) children 5–12; Rs 2,000 ($46) children over 12. Rates include all meals, tea and coffee, sunset cruise, and farm excursions. 20% discount June–Sept. Credit cards for overseas bank deposits only. Amenities: Dining facilities.

IN & AROUND ALLEPPEY (ALAPPUZHA) Yet another backwater treasure, this 150-year-old heritage Emerald Isle Value

villa, located between the Pamba River and Vembanad Lake, is ideal for travelers looking for an authentic Kerala backwater homestay experience that still provides privacy. The magic begins when a boatman picks you up in a dugout canoe from “Landing Point” (next to Nazareth church), and rows you to the Job family home. There you are welcomed with filter coffee, tea, coconut water, or toddy. The home is sparklingly clean and has a glorious old-world charm—history-lovers will enjoy the 250-year-old

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property deed etched in palm leaves, newspaper cuttings from 1909, and even the ancient cooking pot–turned–coffee table in the living room; others might opt to do nothing but sink into in the inviting wicker chairs. The en-suite guest rooms have ancestral carved teakwood furniture; ask for one of the two with great open-air bathrooms. (Only one room is air-conditioned, but the attached bathroom is small.) Freshly prepared meals are eaten with the family, but you pick what’s on the menu: Choose among chicken curry and appams (lace pancakes), karimeen pollichathu (pearl spot fish), avoli fry, neimeen curry, egg roasts, or catch of the day. The place is filled with history, which the Jobs are happy to share; they can also provide information on local culture, cuisine (you’re invited into the kitchen), or anything that raises your curiosity. In addition, the Jobs will organize boat cruises, backwater trips, fishing, walks through paddy and coconut plantations, and village tours. Beautifully maintained, this retreat has 3 hectares (7 acres) of plantations and gardens and is a wonderful way to experience a Kerala that’s a world away from the posher but sometimes sterile five-star accommodations. Kanjooparambil-Manimalathara, Chathurthiakary P.O, Alleppey 688 511. & 0477/270-3899, 0477/309-0577, or 94470-77555. www.emeraldislekerala.com. [emailprotected]. 4 units. Rs 2,800 ($64) deluxe double, Rs 3,500 ($80) A/C double. Rates include boat transfers and all meals. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Boat cruises; massage; free cooking classes; fishing, toddy tapping.

Kayaloram Lake Resort A scenic 15-minute boat ride from Alleppey’s jetty brings you to one of the best resorts the backwaters have to offer: Kayaloram is a relatively intimate and very private lakeside resort, with watery views that seem to stretch forever (or at the very least to distant Kumarakom and Kollam). Guest rooms are in four transplanted and remodeled 75-year-old tharavads with wraparound teak verandas and intricately patterned gables. Rooms are uncluttered and feature the de rigueur high-beamed ceilings, bamboo blinds, coir carpets, terra-cotta tiled floors, and paneled walls of dark jackfruit wood. Outdoor bathrooms with open-air showers are glorious. The best views are from room nos. 2, 3, and 5, which face the lake, less than 10m (30 ft.) away, and allow you to watch the prawn fishermen’s lights twinkling on the lake at night. During the day, the continuously changing spectacle of passing boats, canoes, and chundan vallams (snake boats) is equally magical. In keeping with the personalized service, individual lunch and dinner orders are taken a few hours in advance (Ayurvedic cuisine is available) to ensure that tastes, needs, and moods are adequately met. Complimentary sunset backwater cruises are also on offer; alternatively, the resort will organize longer backwater trips for you, and you will be picked up from the lawn outside your room. The manager is fond of taking guests on walking tours through some of the backwater villages located near the resort. The Ayurvedic treatments, while not extensive, are considered some of the best in India. Punnamada, Alleppey 688 006. & 0477/226-2931, 0477/223-2040, or -1573. Fax 0477/225-2918. www.kayaloram. com. [emailprotected] or [emailprotected]. 12 units. $95–$118 pool-facing double, $118–$147 lakefacing double. Rates include 2 transfers and breakfast. Meals are $7 each. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; beer available; pool; Ayurvedic treatments; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C.

Keraleeyam Lake Resort This 70-year-old Kerala home is one of the Value best-value deals on the backwaters, and unbeatable if you want to experience the heritage atmosphere of the top-notch resorts at budget rates. Set on the water’s edge, it includes five rooms and nine cottages. The guest rooms in tharavad houses feature high-beamed ceilings, wooden shutters, and small doorways with traditional thick wooden saksha locks. Each cottage (without air-conditioning, but naturally cooled by

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the thatch roofs) has a direct lake view with a private balcony, a personal coconut palm, and an open-to-the-sky shower in a lovely indoor-outdoor bathroom. Air-conditioned cottages, while made entirely of teak, have very standard bathrooms and shared balcony. Pleasures include backwater cruises and a visit to a living village, as well as Ayurvedic massage facilities. Thathampally, Alappuzha 688 006. & 0477/223-1468 or -6950. Fax 0477/225-1068. www.keraleeyam.com. 5 units, 9 cottages. $25 A/C double; $40 A/C cottage, $30 non-A/C cottage. Child under 12 sharing parent’s room $5. Food tariff of $13 includes all meals. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; Ayurvedic center; tours and sightseeing; boat cruises; canoeing; elephant rides; fortune teller; limited room service. In room: Some have A/C.

The Marari Beach This is without a doubt one of the best beach resorts Kids in Kerala (if not India), with a superb beachfront location. It’s also a good choice if you have neither the time nor the inclination to travel farther south to the betterknown beach resorts. That said, it’s a pretty mellow, down-to-earth place (in other words, not in the same class as the heritage-soaked Surya Samudra or the Poovar Island resort, the best beachfront resorts south of Trivandrum). The Marari Beach features comfortable and spacious (but relatively basic) stand-alone thatched cottages, spread over 15 hectares (36 acres) of lawns and pathways enveloped by coconut groves. The best rooms are nos. 19 and 20, as these are conveniently located near the beach, bar, restaurants, and pool. Marari’s laid-back charms are complemented by its ecofriendly undertakings, which include a water-recycling plant, an organic vegetable garden, rainwater harvesting, and a solar-heated hot-water project. The extensive Ayurvedic center is considered one of Kerala’s best, serviced by two dedicated doctors and backed up by therapists and special dietary options from the restaurant. But the best aspect is the resort’s au naturelle setting, with a 25km (15-mile) beach shared only with fellow guests, local fishermen, and a Laurel-and-Hardy duo who serve as the resort’s lifeguards. Mararikulam, Alleppey 688 549, Kerala. & 0478/286-3801 through -3809. Fax 0478/286-3810. 58 units. www. cghearth.com. $200–$220 garden villa, $350–$410 pool villa, $410–$465 deluxe pool villa. $40 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; 2 tennis courts; volleyball; badminton; bicycles; Ayurvedic center; car hire; currency exchange; shop; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, minibar, tea- and coffeemaking facility, safe.

A secluded bungalow with two en-suite rooms and a central dining/reception room situated at the edge of Vembanad Lake, this lodging option certainly lives up to its name, with the bungalow only rented out to one party at a time (though you only pay for the room you occupy). It’s gorgeous, too, with the original workshop-cum-shack converted into a private resort by a Cochin-based architect; interiors were designed by owner Joerg Drechsel (owner of super-stylish Malabar House), who incorporated local skills and elements with his personal take on Kerala style. Polished black oxide flooring contrasts with blue and mustard-yellow fabrics in the bedrooms; latticed walls, large mirrors framed in teakwood, antiques, and traditional masks complete the picture. On the porch, wooden rocking chairs with extendable leg-rests invite hours of relaxation. The front door is just steps from the lake, where kettuvallams idle and birds swoop down to catch fish. Completing the idyll, guests enjoy the personal attention of a dedicated chef and housekeeper. Privacy may make you feel a million miles from anywhere, but it’s only 45km (28 miles) from Cochin and 15km (91⁄3 miles) from the backwater-access town of Alleppey.

Privacy

Reservations through Malabar House Residency, 1/268–1/269 Parade Rd., Fort Cochin 682 001. & 0484/221-6666. Fax 0484/221-7777. www.malabarhouse.com. 250€ ($310) suite; 180€ ($224) cottage. 25€ extra bed. Rates include

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breakfast. Cottage rented to 1 party at a time. Extra bed 20€ ($25). MC, V. In room: TV, fax machine, kitchenette w/tea- and coffee-making facility.

KO L L A M 1,220km (756 miles) S of Mumbai

There is no reason to spend any time in what is the official southern point of Kerala’s backwaters, but two accommodations on the outskirts of town are worth considering, particularly if you plan to head north in a houseboat to Alleppey or beyond. Budget travelers can get a taste of history in a British mansion that’s been converted into the Tourist Bungalow, which functions primarily as a Government Guest House (Tourist Bungalow Rd.; & 0474/274-3620). Located a short distance out of town, the mansion isn’t in the best shape, with neglected antiques and aging facilities, but the guest rooms (with attached bathrooms) have a faded grandeur and cost less than Rs 220 to Rs 440 ($5–$10) per night. A better option, not least because it’s on the water, is the rather pompously named Aquaserene, a quiet resort with a number of facilities (Ayurvedic center, room service, guided tours) set on a promontory almost entirely bordered by water. A network of canals and concrete pathways links the collection of cottages with various parts of the resort, and coconut palms and watery rockeries set a tropical mood. The Lake Heritage Villas are duplex guest rooms in red-tile-roof tharavad-style cottages that make use of restored teak pieces and feature indoor-outdoor bathrooms. The upstairs bedroom has a balcony with cane chairs to take in the lovely watery views. Only eight have double beds, so book one of these in advance. Doubles cost $90 to $125, meals $4 to $9. Contact the resort at & 0474/251-2410 or check it out at www.aquasereneindia.com.

3 Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) & Varkala 1,200km (756 miles) S of Mumbai

“Thiruvananthapuram” (City of the Sacred Serpent) is the mouthful of a name given to Kerala’s seaside state capital, but thankfully almost everyone calls it Trivandrum. Although the city has some interesting museums and a temple that’s of great significance to Hindus (and off-limits to non-Hindus), the only reason to find yourself here is to utilize the city’s excellent transport connections and head for the beautiful beaches that lie north, at Varkala, or south, to Kovalam and beyond. While Varkala has certainly been “discovered,” it’s a more laid-back alternative to Kovalam, which— no doubt due to its proximity to Trivandrum (a mere 10–20-min. drive south)—has been a popular seaside vacation spot for more than 70 years, and as a result has become overcommercialized and saturated with tourist-hungry businesses. If you’re looking for Kerala’s most stunning, upmarket seaside options, many with more-or-less private beaches, you’ll have to travel farther south of Kovalam (see “From Kovalam to the Tip of India,” later in this chapter).

ESSENTIALS VISITOR INFORMATION As the state capital, Trivandrum has plenty of outlets for tourist information. There are two Tourist Information Counters at the airport; one is run by the Government of India (& 0471/250-2298) and the other by the Government of Kerala (& 0471/250-1085; daily 10am–5pm, closed a flexible hour for lunch); the latter also has counters at the Central Bus Station in Thampanoor (& 0471/232-7224) and at the Railway Station (& 0471/233-4470), both of which are open daily from 8am to 8pm. Kerala’s Department of Tourism operates a 24-hour

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toll-free information line (& 1 600 425-4747). Also providing tourist information is Kerala Tourism (Park View, Museum Rd., opposite the museum complex; & 0471/ 232-1132; daily 10am–5pm). For local tour information, go to the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation or KTDC (at Hotel Chaithram, adjacent to Central Bus Station in Thampanoor; & 0471/233-0031; daily 6:30am–9:30pm). In Kovalam, visit the Tourist Facilitation Centre (& 0471/248-0085; Mon–Sat 10am–1pm and 1:30–5pm) at the ITDC Compound. Besides giving information, the center assists with tour bookings, car hires, boat rides, and lodging. Consider any government-owned accommodations carefully. GETTING THERE & AWAY By Road As mentioned earlier, Kerala is ideal for exploration with a hired car and driver; roads are relatively good, and the countryside is spectacular. See “Guided Tours,” below. Trivandrum is connected by principal roads and highways with all parts of the country. Super Deluxe bus services are operated by Kerala State Road Transport Corporation (& 0471/232-3886 or 0471/246-3497 for the Central Bus Station in Thampanoor; & 0471/246-3029 for the City Bus Stand in Fort). Private operators run so-called deluxe coaches to more distant towns and cities in South India, but note that most overnight buses stop regularly, making sleep impossible. More recently, a few private operators have introduced overnight (Volvo) buses between the major cities in the South. An overnight bus from Bangalore to Kochi (or vice versa), for instance, takes 10 to 11 hours and costs Rs 600 ($14). Though the journey is long, it’s relatively comfortable; buses are air-conditioned, have reclining seats, usually provide blankets, and stop only two or three times for toilet/food breaks. By Air Trivandrum is connected by air to Delhi, Mumbai, Kochi, Chennai, Bangalore, Hyderabad, and Tiruchirapali. The international airport (& 0471/250-1424 for international flight information) is served by Jet Airways, Air-India, and Indian Airlines (for details, see “Airlines” under “Fast Facts: Trivandrum,” below). There are also international flights from various Asian cities, including Dubai, Abu Dhabi, and nearby Malé in the Maldives. The airport is 6km (33⁄4 miles) from the city center, and you can pick up a prepaid taxi for the journey into town (Rs 200/$4.55) or directly to Kovalam (Rs 450/$10). By Train There are regular trains between Trivandrum and other important destinations in Kerala, including Cochin (under 4 hr.), Alleppey (31⁄2 hr.), Kollam (11⁄2 hr.), and Varkala (1 hr.). If you’re coming from Chennai in Tamil Nadu, the overnight Trivandrum Mail is convenient. Trains also reach India’s southernmost point, Kanyakumari; the journey takes around 21⁄2 hours. Thiruvananthapuram Central Railway Station is just east of M.G. Road, on Station Road; for general railway inquiries, call & 131. For reservations, call & 132 or 0471/232-3066, or you can access the Interactive Voice Response service by calling & 1361. GETTING AROUND By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Metered rickshaws charge upwards of Rs 8 (20¢) for the first kilometer, Rs 4 (10¢) for each kilometer thereafter, but you’ll more than likely find yourself haggling over a predetermined price, particularly in the resort areas around Kovalam. For auto-rickshaw trips between Trivandrum and Kovalam, expect to pay Rs 120 ($2.75). Between the airport and Kovalam, taxis charge around Rs 450 ($10) one-way. From Kovalam north to Varkala, taxis should charge Rs 900 ($21). To hire a car and driver, see “Guided Tours,” below.

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By Motorcycle & Scooter You can rent an Enfield or Honda on a daily basis from Kerala Adventures (& 0471/231-0796) in Trivandrum. Expect to pay between Rs 250 and Rs 350 ($5.70–$8) per day. GUIDED TOURS KTDC (Hotel Chaithram, adjacent Central Bus Station, Thampanoor; & 0471/233-0031; Mon–Sat 6:30am–9:30pm) organizes sightseeing tours in and around the city. These are cheap (Rs 130/$2.95 full day) but are aimed primarily at domestic tourists, so they are not recommended. A far better option is to hire a private car and driver and plan a personalized trip. Arrange this through your hotel, or contact Sita World Travel (G-2, P.R.S. Court, Ambujavilasam Rd., off G.P.O. Junction; & 0471/247-0921 or 0471/257-3180; fax 0471/246-0173; trv@ sitaindia.com).

FAST FACTS: Trivandrum Airlines As ever, your best option is Jet Airways (Akshaya Towers, Sasthamangalam; & 0471/272-1018 or -8864); you can also contact Jet at the airport (& 0471/250-0710 or 0471/250-0860). Options are Indian Airlines (Mascot Sq., M.G. Rd.; & 140, 141, or 0471/231-8288; airport location & 142, 143, or 0471/ 250-1537); and Air-India (Vellayambalam; & 0471/231-0310; airport location & 0471/250-1426). Area Code The area code for Trivandrum is 0471. ATMs Numerous ATMs in Trivandrum accept Visa and MasterCard; there are no such facilities south of the capital. Banks You can exchange currency and traveler’s checks at Canara Bank (Spencer Junction, M.G. Rd.; & 0471/233-1536; Mon–Fri 10am–2pm and 2:30–3:30pm, Sat 10am–noon); you can also get cash advances against certain credit cards. Currency exchanges only can be made at Central Bank of India (Hotel Chaithram lobby, Central Station Rd.; & 0471/233-0359; Mon–Fri 10am–2pm, Sat 10am–noon). Car Hire See “Guided Tours,” above. Currency Exchange Most hotels will exchange your dollars, pounds, or euros. Also see “Banks,” above. Drugstores Try Darsana Medicals (Station Rd.; 8am–9:30pm).

0471/233-1398; daily

Emergencies For fires and other emergencies, including medical services, call & 101. Hospitals You’ll get good care at Sree Uthradon Thirunal Hospital (Pattom; & 0471/244-6220), which is privately run. Also try Cosmopolitan Hospital (Maurinja Palayam, Trivandrum; & 0471/244-8182). Internet Access Expect to pay around Rs 20 to Rs 40 (45¢–90¢) per hour. Look for the signs for Sify i way or Reliance Webworld—these Internet centers usually provide faster connections than most. In Trivandrum you can visit Multidata (3rd floor, Kottarathil Buildings, Newblock, behind Bank of Baroda, Parayam; & 0471/232-1082) or Orbit Cybercafé (Vasantham Chambers, S.S. Coil Rd.; daily 9:30am–10pm).

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Police Dial & 100. Thampanoor Police Station (& 0471/233-1843) is on Station Road. For road accidents, call the police help line at & 9846/100-100. Post Office The General Post Office (& 0471/247-3071; Mon–Sat 8am–7pm, Sun 10am–4pm) is along M.G. Road. Travel Agents IATA-affiliated Altima Tours & Travels (Corporation Golden Jubilee Building, opposite SMV High School, M.G. Rd., Trivandrum 1; & 0471/ 246-3569 or 047/247-1212; [emailprotected]) is reliable. So is Kerala Adventures, a recommended agent that will provide a variety of travelrelated services from car hire to hotel bookings (C1, Future House, Temple Rd., Sasthamangalam; & 0471/231-9548, -0796, or 98470-65548; comvoyge@vsnl. net). Visa Extensions Contact the Office of the Commissioner of Police (& 0471/ 232-0579 or 0471/232-0380).

WHAT TO SEE & DO IN TRIVANDRUM Trivandrum, to put it bluntly, is a dump, but it has a number of interesting buildings, including the stately Secretariat and Legislative Assembly, situated along Mahatma Gandhi Road, which is the main boulevard and center of activity through town. M.G. Road runs more or less north to south and links the two most significant areas of tourist interest: the Museum Complex, to the north of the city; and the Fort area, which houses Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple and Puthen Malika Palace Museum, to the south. It is possible to walk from one area to the other (about 45 min.), and there are numerous shops en route. Alternatively, auto-rickshaws continuously buzz along the road’s length, and you will have no trouble catching a ride from one area to the other. Aside from the attractions reviewed below, Chacha Nehru Children’s Museum is sure to draw parents traveling with children with its collection of nearly 2,000 dolls. Shri Padmanabhaswamy Temple This Dravidian-style Vishnu temple, said to be the largest in Kerala, may be off-limits to non-Hindus, but the “temple guides” manage to target foreigners with great ease, leading them to the obligatory spots from which to photograph the seven-story-high entrance tower, or goparum, which is pretty much all that can be viewed from the outside. The temple is believed to have come into existence on the first day of the Kaliyuga era (3102 B.C.)—legend has it that the temple “materialized” after a sage prayed to Vishnu asking him to appear in a form that he could comprehend with his limited human vision—but the greater part of the complex was built during the 18th century. The temple is fronted by a massive tank, where devotees take ritual dips. Alongside a promenade are stalls selling ritual items, religious souvenirs, and flowers for use inside the temple. Fort, Trivandrum. & 0471/245-0233. Closed to non-Hindus. 4am–noon and 5–7:30pm.

Puthenmalika (Kuthiramalika) Palace Museum A secret, private passage is believed to connect Padmanabhaswamy Temple with this Travancore-style palace, built in the early 18th century by the social reformer Maharajah Swathi Thirunal Balarama Varma, a poet and distinguished musician. Known as the Horse Palace because of the 122 carved horse brackets that buttress the exterior walls, the buildings include elaborate carvings, among them two extravagant thrones—one made from

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25 elephant tusks, another made entirely from Bohemian crystal. Visitors are also allowed into the Maharaja’s music room, from where you get the same view of the temple that was apparently a source of inspiration to the erstwhile ruler. Despite the value of much of the collection, the buildings are in need of renovation; the beauty of the carved teakwood ceilings and collected objets d’art are sometimes disguised by insufficient lighting and neglectful curatorship. You’ll be taken around by an “official” guide—obviously he’ll require a small tip. 100m (328 ft.) from the temple, Fort. & 0471/247-3952. Entrance Rs 20 (45¢) adult, Rs 10 (25¢) children. Tues–Sun 8:30am–1pm and 3–5:30pm.

Museum Complex Mercifully, the remainder of Trivandrum’s cultural sites are clustered in a huge formal public garden at the northern end of the city. Napier Museum occupies an early Indo-Saracenic building, created in 1880 in honor of the then-governor of Madras, Lord Napier. This priceless collection includes excellent 12th-century Chola bronzes, wood carvings, stone idols, and fascinating musical instruments, while more unique pieces include a temple chariot, a 400-year-old clock, and a royal cot made from herbal wood. Fine-art enthusiasts should visit Sri Chitra Art Gallery, which holds an assortment of miniature paintings from the Rajput, Moghul, and Tanjore schools, as well as more exotic works from Japan, China, Bali, and Tibet. One of the country’s foremost artists, Raja Ravi Varma (1848–1905), whose well-known oil paintings explore Hindu mythological themes, is represented here. K.C.S. Paniker Gallery is a wholly unnecessary diversion, as is the Natural History Museum (unless you want to see stuffed animals and dolls in traditional costumes)—the anthropological exhibit at Kolkata’s Indian Museum is far superior. And

A Cultural Rendezvous Backed by UNESCO, Vijnana Kala Vedi Cultural Centre charitable trust was founded in 1977 by a French artist named Louba Schild, who has been living in Kerala since the late 1960s. The center endeavors to preserve traditional Keralite arts and crafts, and to nurture the potential of young artists. The center also runs programs concerned with teaching such diverse cultural traditions as Ayurvedic medicine, local architecture, languages like Sanskrit, Indian cooking, and mural painting, as well as training in classical performance styles such as Mohiniattam, Bharatanatyam, and Karnatic vocal music. Around 200 foreign artists, researchers, and cultural tourists attend the center to learn about local arts and culture, and you are invited to enroll in short- or long-term programs. Vijnana Kala Vedi is situated 3 hours from both Trivandrum and Kochi; the center will gladly make all arrangements for pickups from either airport. Six of the guest rooms have en-suite Western-style bathrooms, but hot water must be ordered by the bucket. Accommodations are simple but lovely, with ceiling fans and mosquito nets. The traditional Keralite meals are strictly vegetarian. For more information, contact Vijnana Kala Vedi Cultural Centre (Tharayil Mukku, Aranmula 689 533; & 0468/221-4483, -3308, or 0468/231-0451; www.vijnana kalavedi.org). All-inclusive tariff per person for the first week $200, with a 10% discount for the second week; $630 1-month stay. A maximum of 3 nights costs $32 per night per person; for accommodations only for a maximum of 1 week, $15 per person per night.

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stay away from the zoo, particularly if you’re an animal lover—like most zoos in India, it lacks the funding to build bigger, more humane habitats for its animals. Museum Rd. Purchase tickets for all museums at the ticket booth. Admission Rs 6 (5¢). Thurs–Sun and Tues 10am–4:45pm; Wed 1:30–4:45pm.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Shree Karthika Thirunal Theatre (alongside Lucia Continental Hotel; & 0471/ 247-1335), in Trivandrum’s Fort district, holds regular classical dance-theater performances (mostly Karnatic, but also Hindustani) throughout the year. The theater has its own company but hosts outside groups showcasing various genres, including Kathakali, Mohiniattam, and Bharatanatyam. You can observe Kalaripayattu martial arts classes, and even arrange special performances or lecture demonstrations, through C.V.N. Kalari Sangham (Fort, Trivandrum; & 0471/247-4182; fax 0471/245-8996; www.cvnkalarikerala.com). Established in 1956, this institution has represented India at numerous international festivals.

NORTH OF TRIVANDRUM: THE RED CLIFFS OF VARKALA A 55km (34-mile) drive north of Trivandrum (an hour by train), the seaside resort of Varkala draws numerous Hindu pilgrims who come to worship in the 2,000-year-old Sri Janardhana Swami Temple and ritualistically cleanse themselves in the mineral spring waters that gush from Varkala’s ruby-red laterite cliffs. The cliffs overlook the rather aptly named “Beach of Redemption.” Varkala attracts scores of backpackers searching for an untouched beach paradise—and several years ago, they might have found just that. Today, hawkers and shack-dwellers have drifted in and set up shop along the tops of the cliffs; the coconut palms have been replaced by cheap guesthouses and open-air cafes; and children flog cheap jewelry, yards of cloth, and backto-nature hippie gear. Nonetheless, being a holy beach, the sand at the base of the cliffs stays relatively free of human pollution—it’s neither a convenient public ablution facility nor a wastedumping ground. Instead, devotees of Vishnu attend to earnest puja sessions, offering banana leaves piled with boiled rice and brightly colored marigolds to be carried away by the ocean. Usually, the sand is soft and lovely, and you can find a quiet cove for sunbathing without the crowds that are inescapable in Kovalam. In fact, you can find relative peace and calm if you restrict your beach activities to the morning; by lunchtime the gawkers (female bathers are advised to be discreet), hawkers, and dreadlocked Europeans start to file in, and it’s time to venture back to the pool—with any luck, at the Taj Garden Retreat. Other activities for visitors here include Kathakali demonstrations, elephant rides, village tours, and backwater trips. You can also take a pleasant evening walk (or autorickshaw ride) to the cliffs to visit Sunset Point. If you don’t want to walk back, keep the rickshaw for your return trip (round-trip Rs 30–Rs 40/70¢–90¢; more if you want to go farther up the cliff ).

WHERE TO STAY & DINE T R I VA N D R A M

Walk up the spiraling incline of Maveli Coffee House (between the Tourist Reception Centre and KSRTC bus stand; daily 7:30am–10pm), if only to be able to say afterwards that you’ve dined in one of the world’s oddest restaurants. Located diagonally opposite the railway station, this unique coffeehouse was designed by Laurie Baker, an English architect who now lives in Kerala, and resembles a squat ocher-

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Warning: Banana Chips Are Addictive Although tourists are normally advised to stay off street food, there’s one kind of street snack you can sample without a problem in Trivandrum. Banana chips are a Keralite’s favorite snack, and you’ll see thattu kadas, temporary food trolleys (particularly at night), with men slicing and frying bananas in coconut oil right on the street, almost all over Kerala. Buy them piping-hot and lightly salted—they’re even more scrumptious than potato chips. Good spots to buy these fresh are near the British Library, or at a small shop in Kaithamukku (about 3km/2 miles west of the central train station), where A. Kannan has been frying some of the best banana chips in Kerala for close to 15 years. Note that banana chips come in myriad flavors depending on the variety of banana used. Those made with ripe bananas are slightly sweet, but we suggest you go for the thinly sliced variety. Be warned, however: They are seriously addictive.

colored version of Pisa’s leaning tower. It’s a favorite hangout for the locals, and an interesting spot in which to spend some time rubbing shoulders with the groundlings and businesspeople who come here for their idlis, dosas, and chai or coffee (you can purchase beans here, too). If you’re exploring the Secretariat, head across the road to Arul Jyothi (Mahatma Gandhi Rd.; daily 6:30am–10pm). The capital’s civil servants pile in here at lunchtime, when there’s much ordering of thalis (platters featuring Indian breads and various curries and chutneys) and wonderful masala dosas. Tip: If you’re keen to browse newspapers from back home, stop at the British Library nearby; it has a good collection of magazines and international dailies that you can peruse for no charge (just show your passport to enter). For more salubrious surrounds (not to mention delicious Malabar fish curry and melt-in-your-mouth chicken masala), the smart Regency Restaurant at the South Park Hotel is the place to be (Spencer Junction, Mahatma Gandhi Rd.; & 0471/2333333; daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–10:30pm). There is little reason not to head south before nightfall, but if you really must stay in the city, Muthoot Plaza is Trivandrum’s swankiest hotel (& 0471/233-7733; www.sarovarparkplaza.com; $95–$250 double). A seven-story steel-and-glass hangout for foreign visitors and businesspeople who come to the state capital to pay baksheesh to various government representatives, Muthoot is functional, with good service and a convenient location, but it has no pool (though staff can arrange access to one). If you need a daily dip (and the best in-house restaurant), the South Park (& 0471/ 233-3333; www.thesouthpark.com; Rs 3,000–Rs 8,000/$68–$182 double, including breakfast) is another good choice; the guest rooms benefited from a much-needed refurbishment in 2002, but they are still not as nice as those at the Muthoot. If you’re looking for something slightly cheaper, the recently renovated Hotel Saj Lucia (& 0471/246-3443; www.sajlucia.com; doubles from Rs 2,550/$59) is within strolling distance of Padmanabhaswamy Temple and the Palace Museum, two of the city’s more interesting sights. Budget travelers (or those who’d rather save your cash for the gorgeous resorts that lie south) should head for Ariya Nivaas Hotel (& 0471/233-0789; www.ariyanivaas. com), an office-block-style hotel that offers good, clean lodging conveniently located near the Central Railway Station. Deluxe doubles go for Rs 1,000 ($23), and rooms without air-conditioning cost as little as Rs 600 ($14). Staff are friendly and can help

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with travel arrangements. The hotel has a decent restaurant and a useful 24-hour checkout policy. It’s often full, so book in advance. A more pleasant budget option (certainly from an aesthetic point of view) is Wild Palms Guest House, where the welcoming Pereiras rent out six rooms in their lovely residence. Overlooking a typical city street in a residential area, Wild Palms (a misnomer, though it does have a small garden) is away from the noisy city, yet close enough to easily access important sights. Rooms are spacious and clean (each suite has its own balcony overlooking the street), and food is home-cooked (& 0471/247-1175; from Rs 845/$19). This is a good choice if you’re looking for a quiet place, but you may find it boring if you’re alone and prefer to interact with others; note that it’s often booked up in peak season. Tip: A new law has made smoking in all restaurants and public spaces (like railway stations) in Trivandrum a fineable offence, so if you must puff, make sure you head out of town first. VA R K A L A Taj Garden Retreat, Varkala

Neatly set on the slopes of Varkala’s red cliffs and overlooking a beautiful length of coastline, the Garden Retreat is hemmed in by verdant paddy fields and dense groves of coconut palms. Despite the fact that the hotel is showing its age and is in need of renovation, this is still the best address in town, definitely where you’ll want to head when the crowds get irritating. But it is certainly not in the same class as some of the resorts that lie south of Kovalam—while the building is inspired by elements of traditional Keralite architecture, it’s essentially a modern concrete hotel with pretty pastel interiors. Reserve a sea-facing superior room. Units aren’t particularly large, but they are comfortable, with great views. Alternatively, you can head for the lobby’s Sunset Bar—the view over the kidney-shaped pool toward the terraced paddy fields and the ocean below is intoxicating. Note: Although the beach is just a short distance away, some of the pathways leading down from the hotel toward the sand can be treacherous.

Janardhana Puram, Varkala 695 141. & 0470/260-3000. Fax 0470/260-2296. www.tajhotels.com. retreat.varkala@ tajhotels.com. 30 units. $125 standard double, $135 superior sea-view double; $160 executive suite sea-view. $35 extra bed. Rates include breakfast and 1 other meal. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; cultural performances on request; pool with swim-up bar; children’s wading pool; tennis; badminton; volleyball; fitness center with gymnasium, Jacuzzi, steam; Ayurvedic center; children’s garden; indoor games; travel desk; car-hire service; backwater cruise; village tour; meeting room; currency exchange; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call; small library. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer on request.

4 From Kovalam to the Tip of India 1,216km (754 miles) S of Mumbai

A mere 16km (10 miles) south of Trivandrum, Kovalam has been a haunt for beach tourism since the 1930s, but its fame as a coastal idyll has wrought the inevitable. Discovered by hippies and then by charter tour groups, it is now a swinging holiday resort, its once-virgin charm plundered by low-rise concrete hotels that have all but totally replaced the coconut palm groves. Even so, Kovalam’s three crescent-shaped sandy beaches, flanked by rocky promontories, remain quite impressive. You can watch fishermen ply the waters in catamarans (derived from the local word kattumaram) as they have for centuries, at night assisted by the red-and-white lighthouse that beams from Kovalam’s southernmost beach. Lighthouse Beach is, in fact, where you’ll find the bulk of cheap hotels, restaurants, and bars, with fishing-net-strewn Hawa Beach and less-crowded Samudra

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Beach lying to the north. After the rigors of India’s crowded cities and comfort-free public transport, budget travelers are lured by the easy, comfortable (and high) life offered here, often staying until money (or good weather) runs out. You can rent umbrellas and watersports equipment along the beach, or hop aboard a fishing boat for a cruise out to sea. Stalls sell colorful fabrics, pseudo-ethnic hippie trinkets, and fresh fruit, fish, and coconut water; music wafts from shack-style cafes, and unofficial bars survive strict liquor laws by serving beer in ceramic mugs and teapots. (Party animals note, however: The vibe at Kovalam is still far tamer than Goa’s.) Immediately south of Kovalam is Vizhinjam Beach, the site of the erstwhile capital of southern Kerala’s first dynastic rulers and, between the 8th and 13th centuries, a major natural port for local kingdoms. Now a poor fishing hamlet of thatched huts overlooked by a pink mosque, Vizhinjam is an interesting contrast to the tourist hubbub of Kovalam; swimming here, however, is dangerous, no doubt the reason for its relatively untouched atmosphere. A number of shrines are found in Vizhinjam, including a rock-cut cave enclosing a shrine with a sculpture of Dakshinamurthy; the outer wall of the cave includes a half-complete relief depicting Lord Shiva and his consort, Parvathi. Farther south, the Ayurvedic resorts that can still lay claim to the beach idyll that put Kovalam on the map dot the coast (see “Where To Stay & Dine,” below). Visitors staying at any of these should seriously consider a day trip that takes in Padmanabhapuram Palace (see review below), on the way to Kanyakumari, India’s southernmost tip, where you can enjoy one of the most interesting cultural experiences on the subcontinent (see box below). From the terraced viewing area, you will see two rock islands, one of which is the site of the Swami Vivekananda Rock Memorial (8am–4pm; Rs 10/25¢ daily darshan or viewing of a deity). You can reach it by half-hourly ferry (Rs 20/45¢ roundtrip). The memorial commemorates a Hindu guru and social reformer’s meditative sojourn on the island in 1892. Several bookstores selling spiritual tomes are found on the island, but the best experience is to be had in the Dhyana Mandapam, a room where absolute silence is maintained so that pilgrims can meditate before a golden om symbol; children may not enter. A set of Parvati’s footprints is enshrined in a temple built for it on the island. On the adjacent rocky island, a massive sculpture of the celebrated ancient Tamil poet-savant Thiruvalluvar stands 40m (133 ft.) high, punctuating the horizon like some bizarre homage to New York’s Statue of Liberty. The only attraction in the town itself is famous Kumari Amman Temple (daily 4:30am–noon and 4:30–8:30pm), dedicated to Kanyakumari, a virgin goddess. Devotees enter the temple through the north gate, making their way around various corridors and bridges before viewing the deity, here depicted as a young girl doing penance with a rosary in her right hand. It’s said that her sparkling nose jewel—seen glowing from some distance away—was installed by Parasurama (Lord Rama, an avatar of Vishnu) himself. Non-Hindus wishing to enter the temple must remove shoes, and men must remove shirts and wear a dhoti (although a lungi passes; purchase one before you leave Kovalam). A willing temple priest will lead you on a very brisk (queue-jumping) tour of the temple, ending with the obligatory suggestion that a donation would be quite acceptable. If, for some reason, you get trapped in this ramshackle pilgrim-choked town, head for Hotel Maadhini (East Car St.; & 04652/24-6857 or -6787; www.hotelmaadhini. com), where you will be woken pre-dawn with tea and an urgent suggestion to watch

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Moments

Watching the Sun Rise from the Subcontinent’s Southernmost Tip

Just 87km (54 miles) southeast of Trivandrum, across the border with Tamil Nadu, Kanyakumari (also known as Cape Comorin) is not only India’s southernmost tip but the much-venerated confluence of the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal, and the Indian Ocean. Watching the sun rise from the subcontinent’s southernmost point is an age-old ritual that attracts thousands of Indian pilgrims each morning. They plunge themselves into the turbulent swell, believing that the tri-oceanic waters are holy. Others revel in the glorious spectacle as though it were a major Bollywood premiere. Nature’s daily show here becomes something akin to a miniature festival, with excited pilgrims besieged by chai-, coffee-, and souvenir-wallas selling everything from kitschy crafts (how else to describe conch shells with plastic flower bouquets glued to the top?) to ancient postcards and outdated booklets. But it’s all part of the experience, which is quite wonderful; you can’t help but be moved by the mass of people who gaze on a natural daily occurrence with such childlike wonder, effectively bestowing upon the event the spiritual significance that draws the crowds in the first place. To get here, you need to arrange for an early-morning wake-up call and have your hotel organize a taxi. You should reach Kanyakumari at least half an hour before sunrise in order to take in the mounting excitement as the crowds prepare to greet the new day. (Note: Kanyakumari sunsets, which are obviously more convenient to reach, also draw a crowd but are only visible mid-Oct to mid-Mar and are not quite as atmospheric, except perhaps for chaitra purnima, the full-moon evening in Apr when the sunset and moonrise can be viewed simultaneously along the horizon.)

the rising sun from your balcony. Double rooms, with carpets, attached bathrooms, and hot water cost between Rs 750 and Rs 1,350 ($17–$31). En route back towards Kerala, you can buy cheap, delicious palm fruits from children on the roadside and visit the fantastic palace in the town of Padmanabhapuram, capital of Travancore until 1790 (see below). Padmanabhapuram Palace Although technically in Tamil Nadu (but a mere 55km/34 miles south of Trivandrum), this gorgeous palace—one of the finest examples of secular architecture in India—was for several centuries the traditional home of Kerala’s Travancore royal family. It’s still well-maintained, and a meditation room features two lamps that have burned since its construction, tended by two dutiful women. Built over a number of generations during the 17th and 18th centuries, the palace exemplifies the aesthetic and functional appeal of Kerala’s distinctive architectural style: sloping tiled roofs; elaborate slatted balconies; cool, polished floors; and slanting walls and wooden shutters—all effectively designed to counter the intense sunlight and heat. The private living quarters of the royal family are a maze of open corridors and pillared verandas; outside, small garden areas feature open courtyards where the sunlight can be enjoyed. Note that the king’s chamber is furnished with a

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bed made from 64 different types of medicated wood and has its own beautifully decorated prayer room. Padmanabhapuram is located 55km (34 miles) south of Trivandrum. Admission Rs 10 (25¢) adults, Rs 5 (10¢) children. Rs 25 (55¢) camera, Rs 100 ($2.30) video, Rs 20 (45¢) parking. Tues–Sun 9am–4pm. Ticket office closed 1–2pm. Visitors must be accompanied by a guide and must remove footwear at the entrance.

W H E R E T O S TAY & D I N E

Backpackers head for the budget hotels on the fringes of Kovalam’s beaches which, during peak season (Dec and Jan), are overrun by tourists and relentless hawkers. Most lodging is less pleasant than cheap, and you’re likely to be at the constant mercy of blaring music from the beach and its sprawl of cafes. Note that these cafes are fine for a snack, but each should be judged according to the number of customers. The rule of thumb is: If it’s empty, the food has been standing around too long. Your safest bet for a proper meal in Kovalam is the restaurant at Hotel Rockholm (Lighthouse Rd.; & 0471/248-0306), where you can dine on a terrace with ocean views; fresh seafood is always available, and it’s carefully prepared. Also, even if you haven’t opted to stay at the beautiful Surya Samudra resort (see below), it’s worthwhile to dine at Octopus. Seafood is the order of the day: tiger prawns fried in ginger garlic, shark or barracuda steak grilled with ginger and chili, a wholesome tuna salad made with freshly caught fish, or perfectly fried mussels—all delivered daily by the local fishermen. Vegetarians are well catered to—try the green papaya curry or red spinach prepared in a coconut sauce—and there is also a selection of Western dishes, including a rather good spaetzle (the restaurant, after all, was once German-owned). If you want to overnight close to Kovalam’s tourist beach action, head for one of the establishments at Samudra Beach, like the government-run KTDC Samudra (G.V. Raja Rd., Kovalam 695 527; & 0471/248-0089, 0471/248-1412, or -1413; fax 0471/248-0242; www.ktdc.com; doubles from Rs 3,400/$78, including breakfast). It’s sterile but enjoys a remarkable setting, perched close to the beach with fine views, a swimming pool, and Ayurvedic masseurs. The best-situated of all the hotels in Kovalam itself is sprawling Leela Kovalam Beach , once the ITDC’s run-down Kovalam Ashok Beach Resort and briefly Le Meridien (& 0471/248-0101; fax 0471/ 248-1522; www.theleela.com). Certainly if you’re looking for the most stunning views over the Lakshadweep Sea with five-star resort-style amenities, this is the place to check into. Following a Rs 500 million makeover, 88 rooms were available by July 2005; by early 2006 (when another Rs 200 million will have been spent), the exclusive Sea View Wing will open. At press time promotional discounts were being offered, but in general, rooms start at around $240; make sure you book one of the

Tips

Don’t Flaunt It

Women should take care not to flaunt their bodies on Kovalam’s beaches. Stories abound of women being harassed, and it is not uncommon for even teenage boys to boldly grab the breasts of Western bathers. Some argue that it’s because some Western women consort with local men, and their “shameless” displays of affection create the impression that all foreign women are brazen hussies, keen to be had by virile Indian men. In short: Unless you’re on a resort beach, where you’ll be watched over by a “lifeguard,” cover up, or make sure you have male accompaniment when bathing.

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sea-view rooms with a balcony that’s just meters away from the waves. Not as great on location, but an equal when it comes to amenities (and a great deal less crowded), the Taj’s Green Cove Resort & Spa offers just 57 rooms spread over 10 acres of tropically landscaped gardens on the Kovalam cliffside. Cottages have traditional Kerala-style thatched roofs and are hidden among palm trees—maintaining privacy from the outside, but still offering good views. Make sure to ask for a superior sea-view room at $170—a mere $20 more than a standard room, and you’re guaranteed spectacular views. Both of the Taj’s restaurants, Chemmeen, an alfresco space specializing in Kerala cuisine, and Curries, serve good Indian food. The resort also has a beautiful Jiva spa, but reports of the services within haven’t been good (& 0471/248-7733; fax 0471/248-7744; www.tajhotels.com). The resorts reviewed below have been chosen because they are situated away from mainstream Kovalam and offer peace, tranquillity, and charm, as well as some of the world’s most pristine stretches of coastline. Bethsaida Hermitage Ten kilometers (6 miles) south of Kovalam, this collection of thatched bamboo and stone beach cottages was conceived of by a local priest who wanted to start an eco-friendly endeavor that could be used to aid a local orphanage. Set on a semi-private beach, amid 8 hectares (20 acres) of coconut palms, this is truly a back-to-nature experience, with very simple, clean accommodations (coconut-wood bed, table chair, and overhead fan) in a variety of configurations. Reserve one of the most recently built rooms, which are spacious, close to the beach, and have bamboowalled open-to-the-sky bathrooms. Hot water is at the mercy of an occasionally moody electrical system, and you need to bring your own toiletries. Don’t arrive expecting luxury (for that, go next door to Surya Samudra; see below); this is the place to indulge your inner hippie—red-and-yellow tie-dyed fabrics are used extensively, and there are even several “cave” rooms, but these can be rather claustrophobic. Tranquillity is the order of the day, and you’ll feel good knowing that your room’s rate (slightly overpriced, considering) will contribute to the welfare of some 2,500 children. Pullinkudi, Mulloor, Kovalam Beach, Thiruvananthapuram 695 521. & 0471/248-1554. Fax 0471/248-1554. www.bethsaida-c.org. 46 units. 28 units. 46€ ($56) cave room; 70€ ($87) cottage; 100€ ($124) traditional tharavad with bay view. Rates include breakfast. 15% discount May–July. Credit cards for deposits only. Minimum 7-night stay over the Christmas and New Year’s period. Amenities: Restaurant; indoor games; travel desk; airport transfers; Ayurvedic massage; prayer hall; meditation center.

Four wooden cottages on stilts, on a jetty in the wilderness Finds extending straight out into the Neyyar backwaters near Poovar, comprise this small eco-lodge—the ideal destination for the nature lover who isn’t afraid of the occasional palm mouse nibbling at the roof. Designed by owners Mark and Sujeewa Reynolds (who personally run the retreat), the cottages are outfitted with palm-leaf roofs to ensure that they are cool even on warm days, and each has a lovely veranda with hammock—just the place to admire the glorious birdlife at your door. The cottages are solar-powered and sport an eco-friendly sewage system—rooms lack an attached toilet, but the common bathroom is spacious, with a central copper-floor shower area. There’s no pool, but the canals on the property are often filled and are good places for a dip. An experienced boatman will take you gliding down the backwaters in search of flora and fauna. Amid all this green wilderness, you would expect to encounter tons of mosquitoes, but we didn’t see any, and the Reynolds assured us this was always the case. The retreat has no road access; you have to either walk 10 minutes through the palm garden or take a boat from the Poovar town wharf or the Poovar Island Resort

Friday’s Place

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jetty. Note that the resort is open November through April, serves vegetarian meals only, and has an inflexible minimum 3-night-stay policy. Poovar Island, Poovar. Reservations via e-mail: [emailprotected]. In the U.K., & 44(0)1428 741510. Check website www.kukimedia.com/fridaysplace for more information and updated India telephone numbers. 3 units. £85 ($156) double per day. Rate includes all meals, complimentary sundown drinks, arrival taxi from Trivandrum airport, and boat connection. Minimum 3-night stay. No credit cards. In room: Veranda, fan.

Converted into a charming, laid-back sanctuary by English owner Davina Taylor Phillips, this charming little retreat is popular with visitors who don’t like to pack their own suitcases. Send Davina your clothing sizes, and she’ll have comfortable handmade cotton garments waiting in your room upon your arrival, along with personally chosen eco-friendly Ayurvedic toiletries. Guest rooms are small but lovely, each with a canopied four-poster bed covered in hand-loomed linen and mosquito net, freshly cut flowers, and bright yellow walls. Guests in the main house or in one of the Maharaja rooms also enjoy the services of a personal room attendant, who will pick you up at the airport if necessary. Various Ayurvedic treatments are available. You can relax after a stint on the beach in the tiny swimming pool near the edge of the lagoon. For solo female travelers, Davina arranges for someone to discreetly keep watch while you’re lying on the beach.

Lagoona Davina

Pachalloor 695 527. & 0471/238-0049 or -4857. Fax 0471/246-2935. www.lagoonadavina.com. 6 units, 1 cottage. Nov–Apr/May–Oct: $137/$84 main guesthouse sea-view double, $137/$50 Maharaja Room without sea-view double, $84/$50 cottage room double. 20% supplement for Christmas and New Year’s. MC, V. Credit card payments made in India incur 5% service charge. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; cultural programs; boating; backwater excursions; library with indoor games; travel assistance; car hire; boutique; Ayurvedic massage, yoga, meditation, and Reiki; tailoring.

This is another resort set away from the tourist crowds and overlooking a secluded beach; it’s as good as Davina’s but service here is more professional, with the Baileys always on hand to ensure personalized assistance. Accommodations are in roomy thatch-roofed cottages (reserve an air-conditioning unit here) or in three restored traditional wooden Kerala houses. No matter which guest cottage you choose, you’ll enjoy first-rate views of the ocean and beach below, thanks to the resort’s elevated location on a small hill. A number of Ayurvedic treatments are on offer, or you can spend hours at the restaurant, which has equally spectacular views and heavenly fresh fruit juices. Located in the small village of Chowara, within verdant gardens and a collection of orchids, Nikki’s Nest is virtually unknown to local taxi drivers but is located 12km (71⁄2 miles) south of Trivandrum and a half-hour from the airport. Note that the Baileys also run Duke’s Forest Lodge, situated at the edge of a river and rubber plantation near the Pepara Sanctuary some 50km (31 miles) away. This is a wonderfully untouched area, perfect for a romantic, secluded getaway, with each pool pavilion cabin boasting a private plunge pool on the ground floor and a room with standard amenities on the floor above ($50–$125 depending on season, including breakfast). Nikki’s Nest

Azhimala Shiva Temple Rd., Pulinkudi, Chowara, S. Kovalam, Thiruvananthapuram 695 501. & 0471/226-8821, 8822, or 0471/226-7822. Fax 0471/226-7182. www.nikkisnest.com. [emailprotected]. 20 units. $100–$170 nest double, $70–$135 big Kerala house double, $65–$125 deluxe double, $50–$85 non-A/C double. Add 20% per extra person. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; cultural programs; Ayurvedic spa; airport and railway transfers; currency exchange; travel desk; fax; Internet; shop; room service; laundry; doctor-on-call.

Kerala’s southernmost resort, at the border between Kerala and Tamil Nadu on a remote stretch of river lagoon, is a tranquil, Paradisiacal place of granite rock walkways and rubber-tree footbridges, sloping red-tiled roofs, and chocolate-brown villas. Add to this some of the best service, best food, and best

Poovar Island Resort

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Ayurvedic treatments in all of Kerala—and the fact that the resort is visited only by fishermen (the only way to reach this island retreat is by boat)—and you see why this understated boutique resort is providing Samudra with some stiff competition. Catch the hotel water-taxi from the resort’s mainland jetty, and you land in a hammocklounging, pool-lazing, chill-out zone for weary travelers. Taking advantage of its island setting, Poovar has floating Malaysian teakwood cottages with elephant-grass roofs moored to jetties on the waters of the gorgeous Neyyar River not far from the estuary where it meets the Arabian Sea. Landlubbers can get cozy in quaint, rustic cottages (a little bigger than those moored at the jetty) with flecked-chocolate exteriors covered with a mixture of sandy soil, hay, and coal tar, and capped by Kerala-style tiled roofs. Interiors have blond-hued wood furniture; textured fabrics in cool orange, lime, yellow, and blue; and gorgeous bedside Tiffin lamps; antiques are thrown in for local flavor. Idle away your time watching fishermen from your private veranda or from the sunken bar at the large and lovely cross-shaped pool; or consign yourself to the excellent bamboo-walled Ayurvedic center, staffed by two doctors and a handful of topnotch no-nonsense masseurs. Expect outstanding service in every department. On the negative side, bathrooms are tiny, the floating cottages have only showers, and sometimes there’s a problem with smells from the loo. Note, too, that the sea here is rough, so it’s not a great place for ocean swimming. K.P. 7/911, Poruthiyoor, Kulathoor Panchayat, Pozhiyoor P.O. Trivandrum 695 513, Kerala. & 0471/221-2068, -2069, or -2073. Fax 0471/221-2092. www.nivalink.com/poovar. [emailprotected]. 4 units (28 on land, 16 floating). 80€–130€ ($100–$161) superior double (includes all meals); 120€–150€ ($149–$186) floating cottage, 150€–225€ ($186–$280) deluxe floating villa. All rates include boat transfers and breakfast. Special rates for Christmas and New Year’s. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (1 floating, dinner only); bar; cake and pastry service; packed-meal service; cultural performances; pool; boating (kayaks, paddleboats); fishing trips; bird-watching; backwater cruises; Ayurvedic center; sightseeing and tours; car hire; currency exchange; shop; room service (on land only); babysitting; laundry; doctor-on-call; small library; photographer (with prior notice). In room: A/C, TV (on land and in deluxe floating cottages), tea- and coffee-making facility (in floating cottages).

Somatheeram Dalí would have loved this shabby-chic “Ayurvedic hospital” carved out of red sandy soil and perched on a terraced cliff overlooking a beach. Somatheeram has been inundated with awards for “Best Ayurvedic Centre,” and that is the primary reason to book here: Massages and treatments are provided in a hygienic environment by an experienced, professional staff who offer serious Ayurvedic rejuvenation rather than luxurious pampering. That said, European “patients” shuffle around in pastel dressing gowns with serene expressions on their golden-tanned faces; you’ll swear everyone is recovering from a particularly blissful enema. Some accommodations are in traditional wooden Kerala houses, which have the standard shaded verandas and hand-carved pillars and are comfortable but not luxurious. Opt for an ordinary nalukettu room in one of these four-bedroom tharavadu houses, and ask for one with a good view of the ocean below. Substantially cheaper, the cottages are very basic round thatched structures built of stone or brick. For travelers on a tight budget, the adjacent sister resort, Manaltheeram (& 0471/248-1610; www.manaltheeram. com) has sea-view thatched villas for 101€ ($125) during the peak season, and is also where the shared pool is located. Chowara P.O. 695 501. & 0471/226-8610. Fax 0471/248-0600. www.somatheeram.com. [emailprotected]. 59 units. $105–$227 deluxe suite; $62–$136 Kerala house; $51–$101 ordinary Kerala house; $31–$80 special cottage; $19–$59 ordinary cottage. 20% extra per person sharing. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; Internet cafe; cultural performances; beach guards; boating; yoga and meditation; indoor games; travel and tour assistance; car hire; currency exchange; gift shop; 24-hr. room service; laundry; tailor; doctor-on-call (Ayurvedic hospital). In room: Fridge in deluxe units.

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Named for the sun and the sea, this is Kerala’s most famous resort (at least for those who subscribe to Condé Nast Traveler or who have flipped through the picture-perfect Hip Hotels), and deservedly so. The small collection of authentic traditional cottages sits on a terraced hillside overlooking the sea, with access to two gorgeous beaches. The original “Octagon cottage suite” was built as a private getaway during the 1970s by Klaus Schleusener, a German professor working in Madras. Alarmed at how centuries-old carved wooden cottages from villages around Kerala were being torn down to make way for modern homes, Schleusener was the first person to come up with the inspired idea of transplanting them into an environment aimed at well-heeled tourists with impeccable taste. Spread over 8 hectares (20 acres) amid terraced gardens of hibiscus trees, coconut palms, and various indigenous palms, and interspersed with rustic pathways, Surya is not as slick (or coolly detached) as a five-star hotel, but the atmosphere is so romantic and the setting so glorious that you could easily spend your entire holiday here. Start the day with a yogic salutation to the sun, then spend it lazing by the infinity pool carved out of the rock bed; end it being lulled into dreamland by the sound of the ocean. You have a variety of accommodations to choose from, most with antique beds, beamed ceilings, heavy rosewood shutters, planter’s chairs, peaceful verandas, and fans whirring lazily overhead. Without a doubt, the best options are the sea-facing rooms and suites, which have private patios and picture-frame windows looking onto the Arabian Sea, where villagers put their catamarans to work. The small beach cottages are good value for budget-conscious travelers who want a view. You can be picky and find incidental faults such as loose toilet seats, the presence of an insect or lizard, and other housekeeping oversights, but the luxury of unfettered tranquillity more than makes up for these. The hotel is relatively accessible: It’s 40 minutes from Trivandrum airport, and a 90-minute walk along the beach to Kovalam.

Surya Samudra Beach Garden

Pulinkudi, Mullar P.O. Thiruvananthapuram 695 521. & 0471/226-7333. Fax 0471/226-7124. www.suryasamudra. com. 21 units. 140€–330€ ($174–$410) sea-front double, 180€–390€ ($224–$485) sea-front deluxe double; 180€–390€ ($224–$485) small beach cottage, 100€–270€ ($124–$335) private cottage, 160€–360€ ($200–$447) garden bungalow, 70€–125€ ($87–$155) heritage home. Dec 31 rates 360€–520€ ($448–$646). Children under 6 stay free if no extra bed required; extra bed 20% more. All rates include breakfast. Dec 31 rate includes complimentary drink, gala buffet dinner, and entertainment programs. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; beach lifeguard; boating; Ayurvedic spa; tour arrangements; foreign exchange; shop; room service; babysitting (by prior booking); doctor-on-call; small library; personal butler and valet (20€/$25 per day). In room: Minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility. A/C in garden rooms.

Massive billboards along the highway south of Trivandrum announce this popular resort on Kerala’s southern coast. Set on 3 hectares (7 acres) of land, amid tamarind and jackfruit trees and coconut palms, Travancore Heritage is separated from the beach by 152 steps; all but two guest rooms have views of the ocean. This is the place to come if you prefer your heritage faux. With sloping red-tile roofs, wooden walls and floors, high-pitched ceilings, and covered pillared verandas, structures recall the traditional style of the region; the main building is modeled on the royal palace at Edapally and features some wonderful reproductions and charming views from its upstairs balcony. Guest rooms are furnished with high woodframe beds, old wicker-backed planter’s chairs, and blinds made from gilded white lungi material. Views from the premium rooms, two of which have tubs rather than showers, are quite a bit better than those from their standard counterparts. Staff are helpful and friendly. There’s a fine Ayurvedic center.

Travancore Heritage

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Chowara P.O., Trivandrum 695 501. & 0471/226-7828 or -7832. Fax 0471/226-7201. www.thetravancoreheritage. com. [emailprotected]. 65 units. $70–$125 heritage home double, $75–$150 heritage premium double; $180–$245 pool mansion. $30 extra bed. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; cultural performances; pool and kids’ pool; beach volleyball; Ayurveda center; Jacuzzi; indoor games; travel, car hire, and tour assistance; currency exchange; room service; doctor-on-call; library. In room: A/C, TV, coffee-making facility.

5 Lakshadweep Between 200km (124 miles) and 450km (279 miles) W of Kerala’s coast

Ask any globe-trotting island-hopper if the globe holds any undiscovered gems, and Lakshadweep will be the among the first names to crop up. One of India’s best-kept secrets, the 36 atolls and coral reefs making up the remote Union Territory of Lakshadweep (or Laccadives) are an extension of the better-known Maldives island group, where booming tourism has spawned a plethora of luxury resorts. Only three Lakshadweep islands—Agatti, Kadmat, and Bangaram—are open to foreign tourists, and the Indian government employs a strictly enforced entry-permit system. All the islands are “owned” by the indigenous people, and land is unavailable for purchase by nonnatives—even a man marrying a local woman may not buy land here. Ten islands in the archipelago are populated, almost exclusively by Malayalamspeaking Sunni Muslims who make their living from fishing and harvesting coconuts. Only Minicoy Island, which is closest to the nearby Maldives, shares aspects of its neighbor’s culture, including a Maldivian dialect known as Mahl. Being Muslim, the islands are officially dry, and alcohol is only available on Bangaram, which is technically uninhabited; avoid carrying any liquor with you. You are strongly advised to bring insect repellent since the mosquitoes become alarmingly active once the sun descends.

ESSENTIALS PERMITS No foreigner may visit the islands without prebooked accommodations. Visitors intending to stay at the Bangaram Island Resort can have all permit arrangements made through the Casino Hotel Group central reservations (Casino Hotel, Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003; & 0484/266-8221; fax 0484/266-8001; [emailprotected]). Foreigners must supply the hotel with your name, address, place and date of birth, passport number, place of issue, date of issue, and expiration date. Permits usually take 2 full working days to be processed. The Casino Hotel Group will also happily book your flight to and from Kochi for you. To make your own permit arrangements (a laborious process), contact the Society for Nature, Tourism and Sports (SPORTS) run by Lakshadweep Tourism (& 0484/ 266-8387) in Kochi. Or contact their Delhi office (& 011/2338-6807). VISITOR INFORMATION See “Permits,” above. For details about Lakshadweep, contact the Assistant Manager, SPORTS, Lakshadweep Administrative Office, Willingdon Island, Kochi; & 0484/266-8387 (10am–1pm and 2–5pm; closed Sun and 2nd Sat of the month). GETTING THERE Unless you fancy a time-munching trip from Cochin by ship (14–20 hr.), the only way to get to Bangaram is on one of Indian Airways’ costly flights ($360 round-trip at press time) from Cochin. You arrive at the tiny airfield on Agatti (Agathi) Island, after which you’ll be detained by some bothersome paperwork. After this you’ll be met by a resort representative, who’ll usher you to a waiting boat anchored near the shore not far from the airport for a memorable 90-minute journey

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to nearby Bangaram Island. During the monsoon season (May 15–Sept 15), a helicopter is used instead of a boat. Transfers cost $110 per person.

DIVING THE REEFS Experienced divers rank the reefs of Lakshadweep among the best diving destinations in Asia, particularly the coral islands of Bangaram, Tinakara, Pirelli 1, and Pirelli 2. Bangaram Island Resort hosts Lacadives, a small dive center that is the first and only CMAS (an international underwater-sports federation) dive organization in India, with its headquarters on the island of Kadmat. Lacadives offers diving courses, rents out equipment, and conducts two dives a day (9:30am and 2:30pm). If you’re not a qualified diver, you can rent a mask and go on one of the resort’s snorkeling trips to a nearby wreck where an assortment of marine fauna will have you begging for more. The resort can organize big-game fishing with local boats, but anglers should bring their own equipment. For details, contact the Lacadives Diving Centre, Bangaram Island Resort, Bangaram (www.lacadives.com; [emailprotected]; in Kochi: Lakshmi Niwas, 43/2051, K. Colony, Kadavanthra P.O., Kochi 682 020, & 9388619494, fax 0484220-6766; in Mumbai: E-20, Everest Building, Tardeo Rd., Mumbai 400 034, & 022/5662-7381 or -7382, fax 022/5666-9241).

WHERE TO STAY Besides Bangaram Island Resort (see below), the only good option is Agatti Island Beach Resort , on Agatti. Accommodations are in simple, spacious cottages with lagoon-facing porches and attached bathrooms (& 04894/24-2436 or 0484/2362232; doubles $155 without A/C and $275 with A/C, including all meals, transfers, and kayaking). Unlike Bangaram, Agatti Island is home to 7,000 people, but it offers fantastic untouched white-sand beaches, aquamarine lagoons, and opportunities to explore (including PADI courses). Bangaram Island Resort Lodging options are limited, so thank heavens for the Casino Hotel Group’s keen appreciation of this unique environment. Borrowed from the pages of an old-style holiday brochure, this peaceful 50-hectare (123acre) island is all silver beaches and towering coconut palms—no newspapers, television, minibars, or even air-conditioning get in the way of experiencing the island’s beauty. Eco-consciously designed so as to all but disappear into the surroundings, the modest 17-year-old resort is quite basic, with emphasis on the captivating setting rather than fussy luxuries. Guest cottages, arranged in a row a short distance back from the beach, are spartan and clean: palm-frond thatch-covered huts with simple cane furniture, mesh screen windows, and private porches from which to admire the ocean. Cottages have electricity and running water (which is not heated but is never cold; it’s taken straight from the ground, so although it’s safe for showering, it has a detectably high salinity level and a slight sulphuric smell). The atmosphere here is so removed from workaday worries that you’ll find no excuses not to recline in your hammock and stare into the magnificent cobalt waters. On the other hand, you could discover a new addiction: diving, which is a major draw. On foot (take shoes for coralcovered stretches), you can skirt the entire island in about an hour; en route you will discover a host of stunning milky-white beaches to call your own. Wandering around the island, you can also venture inland where, among the trees, you’ll find the huts of the Lakshadweep locals who come to the island from time to time to harvest their coconuts. There’s an Ayurvedic massage center for those days when sunbathing gets too stressful, and early risers can salute the rising sun with yoga on the helipad at

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6:30am. The buffet meals are served outdoors so long as weather permits, but the best spot to be in the evenings is at the circular bar near the water’s edge where, among other things, barman Joseph mixes a mean Bangaram Binge—a feisty blend of dark Indian rum and coconut milk, completed with one of his signature palm frond swizzle sticks. Bangaram Island, Lakshadweep. Reservations: Casino Hotel, Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003. & 0484/266-8221. Fax 0484/266-8001. www.casinogroupkerala.com or www.cghearth.com. [emailprotected]. 29 cottages. $290–$350 standard double, $120 off season; $525–$580 2-bed deluxe double, $225 off-season. (May 1–Sept 30 off season.) $30–$120 extra person. Rates include all meals. Boat transfers $30 per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Ayurvedic center; yoga; boat transfers; dive center; deep-sea fishing; island trips; kayaks; catamarans.

6 The Cardamom Hills & Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 190km (118 miles) E of Kochi

Each year, around half a million travelers make their way up into the Cardamom Hills, where the crisp, cool air is redolent with the scents of spices, and soaring mountains give way to tea plantations and dense jungle. Most people head straight to Thekaddy to explore Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, the stomping grounds for large herds of wild elephants. Periyar is one of India’s largest and most popular reserves, and the site of one of the best-organized trek experiences in India. The best times to visit are late spring and summer (Dec–Apr), when streams and watering holes dry up and herds of wildlife come from the depths of the jungle to drink and bathe in Periyar Lake. Another worthwhile destination in the Cardamom Hills, particularly if you’re overlanding from Madurai in Tamil Nadu, is the region around Munnar, a 3-hour drive north of Thekkady. At a much greater altitude than Periyar, Munnar is a collection of vast green-tea estates first established by a Scotsman in the late 19th century—it’s hardly surprising, then, that the area is sometimes referred to as Kerala’s Scottish highlands. In the days of the Raj, it became a popular “hill station”—a place to escape from the summer heat in the plains. Today the landscape—for the most part—retains a classic hill station atmosphere. Watched over by Mount Anamudi, South India’s highest peak, Munnar’s primary attractions are its gorgeous views of rolling hills covered with tea and cardamom plantations, and the cool climate—great for leisurely walks and cycle-tours (not to mention a close encounter with the endangered Nilgiri tahr, a variety of mountain goat).

ESSENTIALS VISITOR INFORMATION All Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary inquiries should be made through the Divisional Forest Office, Thekkady (& 04869/22-2027; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, closed second Sat of the month); entry to the park (Rs 150/$3.40) is between 6am and 6pm. Easiest by far is to ask your hotel to make arrangements; all the resorts will book and transfer you to the KTDC-arranged excursions (see “Exploring Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary,” below). The Idukki District Tourism Information Office (& 04869/22-2620) is located in Kumily, the nearest village to the park, but it has very erratic opening hours. In Munnar, the Tourist Information Centre (& 04865/23-1516; Mon–Sat 9am–7pm; www.munnartourism.com) in Old Munnar is good for arranging wildlife tours and local sightseeing excursions. GETTING THERE From Cochin Periyar is a 4-hour drive east of Cochin, a fairly long but enjoyable drive that traverses mountain roads ascending 900m (3,000 ft.)

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Finding Serenity on the Way to Periyar En route from Cochin (110km/68 miles) to Periyar (90km/55 miles), and a mere 30km (19 miles) from Kottayam, Serenity is a lavishly converted 1920s bungalow on Kanam Estate, in the heart of a rubber plantation. It has a choice of six guest rooms, all with high wood-beam ceilings, generous windows, polished floors, cane chairs, and outlandish traditional masks mounted on display stands. Reservations are made through the Malabar House Residency in Cochin (1/268, 1/269 Parade Rd., Fort Cochin 682 001; & 0484/221-6666; fax 0484/2217777; www.malabarhouse.com; [emailprotected]).

above sea level. Munnar is a 2- to 3-hour drive north of Periyar (100km/62 miles), and another beautiful drive; you’ll pass tea plantations and spice-growing embankments and drive through lovely sections of forest, quite different from Kerala’s coastal region. See “Fast Facts: Cochin,” earlier in this chapter, for information on car hires. From Madurai, Tamil Nadu The drive from Madurai to Munnar (or you can bypass Munnar and go directly to Periyar) is also stunning, traversing many a mountain pass and scenic countryside. The drive from Madurai to Periyar should take about 4 hours (145km/90 miles). Note: Traveling by bus is arduous and time-consuming, at worst hair-raising, but if you want to save money, this is the way to go. GETTING AROUND You can pick up a ride on a rickshaw or taxi almost anywhere in Kumily, near Periyar, where hordes of vehicles wait at the bus stand. Overcharging foreigners is common; try to ascertain from your hotel what the going rate for a particular route is, and bargain upfront. Taxicabs and auto-rickshaws are readily available in and around Munnar, or you can arrange a car and driver through your hotel.

EXPLORING PERIYAR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY Originally the hunting grounds of the Maharajah of Travancore, Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary was declared a wildlife reserve in 1933. In 1979 it became a Project Tiger Reserve—India’s homegrown initiative to protect the big cats’ dwindling numbers. Today Periyar covers 777 sq. km (191,979 acres), and is divided into core, buffer, and tourist zones. Although tiger sightings are rare, particularly in the tourist zone, the reserve is home to elephants, sloth bears, sambar, Indian bison or gaur, wild dogs, leopards, spotted deer, Malabar flying squirrels, barking deer, Nilgiri tahr, and some 260 species of birds. It contains over 2,000 species of flowering plants, including at least 150 different kinds of orchid. The best way to experience Periyar is with the privately run Periyar Tiger Trail (see below); other than this, all access to the park is arranged through the KTDC. These excursions are cheap, making them popular with exuberant domestic tourists who tend to be noisy, which somewhat inhibits the serenity of the experience. Most opt for the 2-hour boat cruise on Periyar Lake (Rs 110/$2.50 top deck; Rs 55/$1.15 lower), from where you can view animals coming to drink at the water’s edge. Unfortunately, you’re more likely to experience nonstop din from children (and their parents) who refuse to obey pleas for silence, preferring to rove around the boat and camcord each other. Boats depart at 7:30am, 9:30am, 11:30am, 2pm, and 4pm. A better option: Ask about the private boat launches, also offered by KTDC (& 04869/22-2023);

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these cost around Rs 4,400 ($100) and take a maximum of 12 passengers. Also recommended are the daily walks; these 3-hour treks depart at 7am, 11am, and 2pm, and provide you with the opportunity to admire some of the stunning flora of the region. And to ensure you have a truly close-up encounter with a pachyderm, you can mount one on a 30-minute elephant ride in the park (Rs 30/70¢; departing every 30 min. 11am–1pm and 2–4:30pm). Check www.periyartigerreserve.org for details on these and other adventures such as bamboo rafting, jungle patrol, and the park’s own Periyar Tiger Trail. Note: Whatever activities you have in mind, you’re better off making all your arrangements through your hotel. Avoid any unsolicited offers from “guides” promising to take you on walks or tours into the reserve; this will only waste your time and test your patience. Periyar Tiger Trail By far the most exciting and tranquil way to Moments experience the park (and one of the best in India) is an exclusive 2- or 3-day “Periyar Tiger Trail” organized by TourIndia Holidays (the same company that innovated the backwaters houseboat scene). Armed with anti-leech footwear and a sleeping bag (supplied), and accompanied by a naturalist and a game ranger armed with a rifle, you are taken farther into the tourist zone than any other operator is allowed to penetrate. What’s more, you are led and looked after by a team of reformed poachers (sandalwood, cinnamon bark, and bison being their loot of choice) who know the terrain and the wildlife better than anyone. They skillfully track and spot animals, carry all the gear, strike camp, cook, clean, and—most important—stand sentinel throughout the night when the danger of being trampled by elephants becomes a serious risk. They also now play an essential role in catching poachers who remain active in the reserve. You’ll almost certainly come across elephants, wild pigs, sambar, black monkeys, wild dogs, and bison, and when you’re not trekking to your next campsite, you’ll be relaxing under forest cover or alongside a lake tributary. Meals are wholesome, authentic Kerala vegetarian fare: sweet chai and pleasant snack lunches served on silver trays with the grass for a tablecloth and a beetle symphony as background. Ablutions are performed in the great outdoors. If you have any special interests, such as ornithology, TourIndia will make arrangements to have a specialist guide you. Note: These exceptional hiking expeditions are limited to five visitors at a time, and only 20 participants

Tips

Alternatives to Spotting Elephants in Periyar

You can pick up a range of spices from a massive number of shops lining the streets of Kumily, the nearest town to Periyar. The best option is to head straight for Kerala Spices Centre (Thekkady Rd.), where the chatty owner will offer to take you on a complimentary 4-to-5km (21⁄2–3-mile) tour of the various plantations (transport not included, of course). He also sells nuts and delicious cardamom tea, and he’s more than likely to invite you to join him for a cuppa chai prepared by his wife in their home around the back. Just down the road from Spice Village and Cardamom County, daily Kathakali performances are held at the Mudra Kathakali Centre (Thekkady Rd.; & 94471-57636; Rs 125/$2.85). Shows feature graduates of the Kalamandalam school. Show times (usually at 7pm, but get there by 6:30pm to watch the performers put on their elaborate make-up) change with the seasons, so call ahead.

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are accepted per week, so book early, particularly in peak (winter) season. The trek starts at 8am, so you will have to stay in Thekkady the previous night. Reservations: Post Box no. 163, Mahatma Gandhi Rd., Trivandrum 695 001. & 0471/233-0437 or -1507. Fax 0471/ 233-1407. www.tourindiakerala.com. [emailprotected]. 3-day, 2-night expedition with 20km (12 miles) of hiking and all gear, food, guides, and forest officer; $300 per person for 2 people sharing. Up to 5 people can be accommodated, in which case the cost is around $150 per person. Individual interests are catered to and special packages can be devised.

EXPLORING MUNNAR: HOME OF TEA & TAHRS Munnar township is itself rather unpleasant and increasingly clogged by impulsive development; thankfully, the region’s real attractions lie on its outskirts and have so far withstood the onslaught of tourist exploitation. With plantations spread out as far as the eye can see, watching the mists creep over the valleys and come to rest like a blanket on the jade-colored hills is almost as refreshing as luxuriating in the cool climate—a welcome relief before you descend to the tropical Kerala coast or to sultry Madurai in neighboring Tamil Nadu. Almost all the plantations are owned by the powerful Tata company, the same mighty conglomerate that produces India’s buses, Sumo four-by-fours, and the Taj hotel chain. Tea factory visits can be arranged either through your hotel or by contacting Tata’s regional office (& 04865/23-0561 through -0565), through which you can also visit the Tea Museum and the tea factory’s processing unit (Rs 50/$1.15; Tues–Sun 10am–4pm). To get up close to some of the world’s last Nilgiri tahr (a variety of mountain goat or ibex), visit nearby Eravikulam National Park. Existing only in the mountain grasslands of the Western Ghats at altitudes above 2,000m (6,400 ft.), the tahr is as endangered as the tiger, with fewer than 2,000 left. Of course, sighting what is basically a goat, no matter how rare, may not be as exhilarating as spotting a tiger, but your chances are far higher—in fact the tahrs have grown so used to visitors that you can get within a few yards of them. Enter the park at the Rajamala entrance, 15km (91⁄3 miles) from Munnar, where you can buy tickets at the park office (& 04865/23-1587; daily 8am–5pm; entry Rs 50/$1.15, light vehicles Rs 10/25¢). Avoid the usual noisy crowds by arriving early.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE I N & A R O U N D P E R I YA R

With the exception of the atmospheric KTDC Lake Palace, which is inside the park, visitors to Periyar are limited to accommodations that lie within a few minutes of each other along Thekkady Road (which links nearby Kumily with the park gate). Of these, Shalimar Spice Garden Resort (see below), located just off Thekkady Road, is by far your best bet. Even if you don’t stay at the resort, it’s worth booking a table at Falling Leaf, the excellent in-house restaurant. Superb Kerala cuisine is served the traditional way (on banana leaves), but the restaurant is well known for its Italian dishes—a hallmark of previous owner Maria Fernhof. The Periyar Room, the air-conditioned indoor-outdoor restaurant at the Taj Garden Retreat (see below), is another popular option and recommended for a romantic evening. Cardamom County You wouldn’t say so from the dull lobby, but this hotel has some good suites with fine views into the Periyar sanctuary. Small cottages with tiled roofs and average-size rooms are terraced against a hill that slopes sharply up from the very public (and often noisy) kidney-shaped pool; bored waiters from the adjacent restaurant pass the time ogling the guests as they sunbathe. Units have high ceilings,

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Once in a Blue Bloom If you plan to visit to India’s southern highlands in 2006, you may be lucky enough to glimpse the next blooming of the rare and exotic Neelakurunji plant. Its violet blossoms transform the hillsides around Munnar for 1 month— every 12 years. A pleasant 34km (21-mile) trip from Munnar, Top Station (the highest point on the Munnar–Kodaikanal road, from where you enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding plains and hills) is the place to witness this natural spectacle.

fans, and uninspiring black wooden furniture on red terra-cotta floor tiles. Those located higher up the steep hillside (nos. 305–314) offer superb views. Ask for room no. 303 or 304 (or even 317)—these have private balconies. Thekkady Rd., Thekkady 685 536. & 04869/22-4501 or -4502. Fax 0486/22-2807. www.cardamomcounty.com. 44 units. $70–$110 Periyar cottage; $80–$140 county cottage; $140–$180 suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; health club; Ayurvedic center; indoor game room; tours; currency exchange; small shop; room service (6am–10pm); babysitting on request. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, and tea-and coffee-making facilities in some.

The major draw of this old-fashioned stone, wood, and tileroofed retreat—the former game lodge of the Maharajah of Travancore—is the gorgeous setting, best enjoyed from the wraparound veranda from which you’re likely to spot a variety of game. In fact, the sense of wonderful remoteness kicks in when you take the 15-minute boat ride across Periyar Lake to reach the forested peninsula, inhabited only by hotel staff, a handful of fellow guests, and wild animals. The six “deluxe” guest suites are rather simple and forlorn, however: A few pieces of antique teak furniture (including four-poster twin or double beds), faux tiger-skin upholstery, and fake ivory tusks, tastelessly framing the dressing table mirrors, set the tone. Ask for a room on the east side, where the views are best. While some recent refurbishments have revealed old teak flooring, the old worn mattresses remain unchanged, and there is no air-conditioning. That aside, it’s great not to have to travel to start your exploration— arrange for a predawn wakeup call and guide to take you into the jungle on foot.

KTDC Lake Palace

Inside Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Reservations: Aranya Nivas and Lake Palace, Thekkady 685 536. & 04869/222024. Fax 04869/22-2282. www.ktdc.com. [emailprotected]. 6 units. Rs 5,000–Rs 10,000 ($114–$228) double. Rs 1,900 ($43) extra person. Rates include all meals and boating. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; beer available; Ayurvedic treatments; travel assistance; boat cruises; car hire; currency exchange; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: TV, minibar.

Shalimar Spice Garden Resort In the off-the-map “village” of Murikkady, just 4km (21⁄2 miles) from Thekkady, this pristine resort, situated on a 2.4-hectare (6-acre) plantation of palms, hardwood, fruit, coffee, and fragrant spices, offers the most enchanting accommodations in the region. Designed by the former owner and Italian architect Maria Angela Fernhof (since sold to the folks from Surya Samudra), it combines her idea of minimalist Euro-chic design with beautiful antique Kerala furniture and objets d’art from around the subcontinent, and works hard to retain the benefit of light in a dense forest setting. Scattered over a landscaped terraced hillock behind the lobby (situated in a 300-year-old traditional pathayam, or granary), granite and pebble pathways lead you to the thatch-roofed guest rooms and cottages. Enter through their teak and rosewood doorways to cool interiors filled with antique furniture and carefully

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chosen ornaments. Cottages feature whitewashed walls and pale terra-cotta tile floors, crystal stained glass, and breezy loggias; the en-suite bathrooms all have windows letting in natural light. The “rooms” are simpler and smaller than the cottages but no less elegant; instead of bathtubs, they feature drench showers. Shalimar’s small Ayurvedic center draws a regular European clientele; it’s built according to ancient traditions with a stone floor, handmade brick walls, and an open fire for heating the medicated oils. Up the terraced hill, along garden pathways decorated with stone bowls once used for grinding spices, the lilac-blue granite-bordered pool sits in a sun-drenched clearing. Outside and in, the scents of cinnamon, tea, pepper, cardamom, jasmine, guava, orange, gooseberry, mulberry, tapioca, passion fruit, and tamarind fill the air. Murikkady P.O. 685 535. & 04869/22-2132 or -3232. Fax 04869/22-3022. www.shalimarkerala.com. [emailprotected]. 15 units. 70€–120€ ($87–$149) double. 80€–150€ ($99–$186) cottage. Extra bed is 20% of room rate. Children under 6 free without extra bed. Rates include breakfast. Add 15€ ($19) for each meal. Payment is required 30 days in advance. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; Ayurvedic center; yoga; boat rides; birdwatching; sightseeing; trekking; taxi rental; currency exchange; laundry; doctor-on-call; valet/butler on request.

Alive with fragrant spices and lush greenery, this “rustic vilKids lage” resort has not only hosted its fair share of celebs but serves as a template for unpretentious yet quality holiday accommodations. Spread over a huge area around a network of pathways and intersections (if you’re averse to walking, choose a low-numbered room, as these are closer to the public areas), the whitewashed bungalow cottages are all topped with thatch—a swell of thick elephant grass that plunges to the ground in an exaggerated curve, almost swallowing the red-tiled veranda; interiors are spacious but simply furnished. The well-priced and very private deluxe guest units are recommended; each has direct access to a private patio and garden, separate shower cubicle in the bathroom, and even a kitchenette. From the moment you arrive, when you’re welcomed with a mint-lime soda and the delicate smell of incense, staff are eager to please: Guided plantation tours, Periyar excursions, Ayurvedic spa treatments, and various culturally flavored activities make up the to-do list. Nature lovers may be interested in visiting the resort’s Wildlife Resource Center.

Spice Village

Thekkady-Kumily Rd., Thekkady 685 536. & 04869/22-2314 through -2316. www.cghearth.com. 52 units. $85–$150 standard villa, $160–$210 deluxe villa. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; cultural performances; pool; tennis; badminton; recreation room; Ayurvedic spa; nature center; wildlife excursions; cooking demonstrations; plantation visits; shop; limited room service; doctor-on-call.

The delightful guest villas at this lush resort are mounted on 3.3m (11-ft.) stilts affording sweeping vistas of the verdant plantation-filled hills and valleys below. For the best views, try to book room no. 302, 501, or 601. The thatched-roofed guest rooms all feature high, pitched ceilings and private viewing decks; they’re spacious and smartly furnished, with plenty of wood and attractive floral prints in natural fabrics. The gardens are also lovely, with indigenous trees as well as a number of exotic plants and flowers; during the season a naturalist is often on-site to talk you through the botany. The multi-cuisine restaurant here is the only real fine-dining establishment in the vicinity.

Taj Garden Retreat, Thekkady

Amalambika Rd., Via Kumily, Thekkady, Idukki District, Kerala 685 536. & 04869/22-2401 through -2406. Fax 04869/22-2106. www.tajhotels.com. [emailprotected]. 32 units. $145 double. $20 extra bed. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; banquet hall; pool; badminton; Ayurvedic center; forest treks; boat safaris; plantation visits; game viewing; activity room; tree house for kids; travel assistance; car hire; currency exchange; babysitting by request; doctor-on-call; nature library. In room: TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facility.

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AROUND MUNNAR

For real Raj nostalgia, head for the High Range Club (& 04865/23-0253), which has tennis courts, a golf course, and a billiards table guarded by looming animal trophies. It’s popular with local tourists, so book well in advance; double rooms cost between Rs 1,150 and Rs 2,300 ($26–$53). Another option is Eastend Edassery (Temple Rd.; & 04865/23-0451; www.edasserygroup.com), which has clean, pleasant guest rooms and several garden cottages. Rates range from Rs 1,950 ($44) for a deluxe cottage to Rs 2,200 ($50) for a large duplex suite. For a less personal experience, Tea County Hill Resort (Munnar 685 612; & 0471/231-8976 reservations or 04865/23-0460; fax 0486/23-0970; www.ktdc.com; [emailprotected]; from Rs 4,000/$91) is one of the better government-run hotel-resorts in India. The property occupies a sprawling, lovely estate atop a low-lying hill. Deluxe guest rooms are clean and comfortable, with small dressing rooms, tubs in the bathrooms, tiled floors, and small balconies with picturesque views. Plenty of guest facilities keep you distracted, including a very slick beer parlor with colonial ambience, and an elegant restaurant; order the Malabari fish curry or tandoori chicken. Club Mahindra Lakeview Located smack in the middle of Tata’s Tea Kids Estates, 22km (14 miles) from Munnar, Club Mahindra Lakeview’s guest rooms live up to the name, with lovely views of the lake below. A great spot to watch the mists swirl over the tea-plant-covered slopes below, this pleasant resort is aimed at wealthy Indian families. Choose to stay in either the main building, with its sophisticated, colonial country-club flavor (planters’ chairs, four-poster beds, and faux fireplaces), or in the more down-to-earth home-away-from-home apartments, which come with basic cooking facilities. A team of people are at the ready to keep the kids busy while you relax in the Tea Room, sampling local varieties. Or opt for one of the formidable assortment of activities—from meditative yoga to rappelling on a rock-face. In the glass-fronted restaurant, Chef Debraj Bhaumik dishes out authentic Bengali cuisine, as well as a variety of other choices. Club Mahindra is often booked up with timeshare participants, so advance reservations are recommended. Note that as they do everywhere else, room rates soar over the Christmas/New Year’s period. Chinnakanal Village, Munnar 685 618. & 0486/24-9224, -9226, -9228, -9290, or -9291. Fax 0486/284-9227. www. clubmahindra.com. [emailprotected]. 104 units. $90–$125 standard double, $115–$140 superior double; $150–$215 suite; $150–$225 1-bedroom cottage; $200–$300 2-bedroom cottage. $25–$30 extra bed. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; yoga; boating; camping; adventure activities; children’s activity center; travel and tour assistance; plantation tours; provisions shop; salon; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV.

It’s a striking half-hour drive from scruffy Munnar Value town to this interesting resort in what feels like genuine hill country. Accommodations are spread around a wide expanse of neatly trimmed lawns and a central open-air pavilion where barbecue dinners are held with a campfire and entertaining cultural performances. Split-level deluxe guest rooms are homey; these have downstairs living rooms with working fireplaces, treated wooden floors, and private balconies with lovely dam views. Ask for one with an upstairs bedroom. Bathrooms are smallish and don’t have tubs. The Peppermill Restaurant, which only opens for breakfast (included in the room rates) and lunch, has a small upstairs section from where you can enjoy lovely views. A playground and activity center help keep younger visitors occupied.

The Siena Village

Chinnakanal Village, Munnar 685 618. & 04868/24-9261. www.sienavillage.com. 28 units. Rs 2,500 ($57) standard double; Rs 4,450 ($101) suite. Rs 600 ($13.65) extra person. Children under 5 free in parent’s room. Rates include breakfast. Add Rs 1,200 ($28) for all meals. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; alcohol available; indoor games;

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travel desk, sightseeing assistance; plantation tours; car hire, conferencing; shop; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: TV. Deluxe guest rooms have fireplaces.

Just outside Munnar on a 24-hectare (60-acre) estate, this intimate undertaking includes a stone farmhouse and two-unit Coffee Cottages. Warm service makes visitors feel like the personal guests of owner Dr. Simon, an ophthalmic surgeon. Accommodations are bright and clean, with wooden ceilings and floors and dark cane furniture; opt for one of the cottages, which are spacious with large bathrooms. The surrounding landscape is exceptionally good for scenic earlymorning walks, organized daily, and you can try your luck fishing in one of several nearby streams. Food is fresh Kerala cuisine, with meats sourced from local farms.

Windermere Estate

P.O. Box 21, Pothamedu, Munnar 685 612. & 04865/23-0512. Fax 04865/23-0978. Reservations: c/o Molly Simon, Trikkakara, Kochi 682 021. & 0484/242-5237. Fax 0484/242-7575. www.windermeremunnar.com. info@windermere munnar.com. 15 units. $125 farmhouse double, $155 garden double; $195 cottage. May–June off season 25% discount. Rates include breakfast and lunch or dinner. Payment in advance at Kochi. No credit cards. Amenities: Dining room; fishing; trekking; doctor-on-call; TV in lounge.

7 Malabar: Northern Kerala Even though northern Kerala’s history as a major spice-trade destination is well documented, it remains relatively untouched by tourism. This is largely because of the 8hour drive it takes to get here from Kerala’s better-favored beaches and backwaters. Nevertheless, this can be a wonderful region to explore if you are looking to get far away from the tourist crowds, and have time to spare. Certainly if you’re traveling overland, from Goa or Karnataka to Kerala, it makes excellent sense to spend a day or two exploring this undervalued part of the subcontinent, particularly the Wyanad Hills, which remains one of India’s last true wilderness areas.

ESSENTIALS VISITOR INFORMATION In Calicut, a Kerala Tourism information booth (& 0495/270-2606; daily 10am–1pm and 2–5pm) is located at the railway station. In Kannur, inquire at the Kannur District Tourism Promotion Council (Taluka Office Campus; & 0497/270-6336; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, closed Sun and second Sat of the month). GETTING THERE By Road Kannur and Calicut are both on National Highway 17, which gets tricky in places as you head farther north. To get from Calicut to Vythiri in the Wyanad mountain ranges, take the Calicut–Bangalore highway. By Air There are regular flight connections to Karipur Airport (& 0495/271-2630 or -1314)—located 25km (16 miles) south of Calicut—with Mumbai, Chennai, and Coimbatore, and less frequent connections with Goa. Taxicabs into the city are expensive, costing Rs 500 ($11) non-air-conditioned and Rs 750 ($17) air-conditioned. By Train Calicut is an important jumping-off point for trains running up and down the coast of Kerala; there are daily trains from Mumbai and Delhi. Daytime journeys are wonderful if you’re keen on enjoying fantastic views. Dial & 133 or 0495/270-1234 for inquiries at the Calicut Railway Station, or & 0495/270-3822 for reservations. GETTING AROUND By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Auto-rickshaws are fine for short trips in Calicut and Kannur, but for longer journeys you will have to hire a car and driver.

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CALICUT & THE WYANAD RAINFOREST Calicut is 146km (90 miles) NW of Kochi

Archaeological evidence suggests that civilizations inhabited the fertile forests of the Wyanad around 3 millennia ago. Today pockets of tribal populations still practice ancient rituals and eke out a simple existence in harmony with nature, but the wonderfully temperate climate and almost permanently sodden soil has also meant that the region supports a sprawling network of coffee, cardamom, pepper, and rubber plantations, stretching over the undulating hills in every direction. Malabar trade, which is still largely focused on spices and textiles, once centered on the teeming coastal town of Calicut, the unofficial capital of the North. Today this is one of India’s cleanest cities, and incidentally where the term calico (white, unbleached cotton) originated. Vasco da Gama was first welcomed here in 1498; at the nearby village of Kappad, a commemorative plaque memorializes the spot where the Portuguese explorer is said to have landed. Now also known as Kozhikode, the city is of marginal interest to travelers, being more of a go-between point for journeys farther south or north, or inland to Kerala’s highest rainfall region, the Wyanad Hills . One of India’s last true wildernesses, the hills are home to Tranquil Resorts, wonderful homestay accommodations surrounded by a 160-hectare (400-acre) working coffee plantation (see below).

KANNUR 92km (57 miles) NW of Calicut; 266km (165 miles) N of Kochi

Kannur is a pretty coastal town predominantly inhabited by what is locally known as the Malabar Muslim. Unlike North India, where Islam was more often than not established through violent conquest, here it arrived initially through trade, and grew through love; Arab sailors coming to Malabar in search of precious spices married local women, establishing the Mappila (or Malabar Muslim) community, which in turn developed its own Arabi-Malayalam songs and poems and the “Mappila Pattu.” This oral record of the unique history of the broad-minded Calicut rulers stands in stark contrast, for instance, with that of the intolerant Portuguese tyrants. Tourism in this northerly region of Kerala is only recently coming into its own, which has distinct advantages if you’re looking to get away from the crowds. It also means that infrastructure remains scant. Don’t be put off, especially if you are traveling by road between Karnataka and destinations in south Kerala. If you’re looking to find a safe, practically untouched sunbathing and swimming spot, head for Muzhapilangad Beach, 15km (9 miles) south of Kannur, where you’ll probably have much of the 4km (21⁄2-mile) sandy stretch all to yourself. Closer to the

Not Quite Kung-Fu Fighting While in Calicut you can watch students perform Kerala’s spectacularly acrobatic, high-flying martial art form, Kalaripayattu (see the sidebar “Kathakali & Kalaripayattu: Kerala’s Colorful Art Forms,” earlier in this chapter) at C.V.N. Kalari Nadakkavu (E. Nadakkavu, Nadakkavu P.O., Kozhikode 673 011; & 0495/ 276-9114 or -8214; www.cvnkalarikerala.com; [emailprotected]). The school holds open classes 6 to 8:30am and 4 to 6:30pm—with prior notice, foreigners with some martial arts training are allowed to join these. Ayurvedic treatments are given during the day.

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Placating the Gods with Theyyams Peculiar to the tribal region of northern Malabar, this ritual dance form evolved as a means of placating ancient village gods and ancestors. Combining temple ritual, rustic ballads, and folk art, theyyams are essentially representations of the collective consciousness of the village. Heavily made-up men with masks, elaborate costumes, spectacular jewelry, and often 2m-high (6-ft.) headgear essentially become oracle-like incarnations or manifestations of the godhead or of a valorous ancestor. The ceremony begins with a song of praise, performed in honor of the presiding deity; this is followed by a dance strongly influenced by Kalaripayattu, the traditional Kerala martial art thought to predate the better-known Far Eastern forms like kung fu. Theyyams traditionally last an entire day and include a great deal of music, singing, and lighting of torches—oil lamps are ceremoniously brandished as shields and swords. Theyyams are usually held between December and April. To ensure your chances of seeing a performance, visit Sri Muthappan Temple at Parassini Kadavu, 18km (11 miles) from Kannur, which has early-morning and evening performances throughout the year.

city, which the Europeans called Cannanore, the Portuguese built imposing Fort St. Angelo (daily 8am–6pm; no admission fee), a monumental laterite edifice from which visitors can view the fishing harbor below. Seventy kilometers (43 miles) north of Kannur lies Bekal, Kerala’s largest fort, thought to date back to the mid–17th century, though there is no accurate account of its construction. Bekal Fort (& 0467/ 227-2900 or -2007) is open to visitors daily between 9am and 5pm; admission is $2.

WHERE TO STAY CALICUT

A number of cheap hotels lie along Calicut’s beachfront. Built as the Malabar English Club in 1890, the Beach Hotel (Beach Rd., Calicut 673 032; & 0495/276-2055 through -2057; fax 0495/236-5363; www.beachheritage.com) retains an air of history (it’s where the likes of Somerset Maugham and Jawaharlal Nehru chose to stay), and the food is good (though service is a bit slow). You can get a beach-facing suite for Rs 1,400 ($33) or a simpler room for Rs 1,200 ($28), both air-conditioned. Slightly more expensive, but still relatively good value, Fortune Park Hotel (& 0495/2768888; www.fortunecalicut.com; Rs 1,900–Rs 2,500/$43–$57 double) is a pleasant low-rise hotel with central air-conditioning and clean and comfortable rooms with small balconies. A range of amenities includes a swimming pool on the third floor and a popular restaurant with live Indian music. If you want a double bed, reserve a Fortune Room. The hotel is on a noisy main road, so ask for a room on a higher floor. Taj Residency, Calicut With the opening of its swanky Ayurvedic treatment center in 1999, this luxury business-oriented hotel, the best in Calicut, is steadily drawing more leisure and health travelers. Guest rooms are carpeted and feature dark redwood furniture offset by dark green upholstery and pale curtains and bedcovers; a small sitting area under wooden ceiling beams adds space and character. The lobby is bright and welcoming, with wood-paneled pillars, cast-iron chandeliers, and woodbeam pitched ceilings. The sloping red terra-cotta tiled roof echoes the architecture of the region. If you do go for an Ayurvedic rejuvenation program, you can be assured

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of professional service. All treatments are made in consultation with the resident astrologer. P.T. Usha Rd., Kozhikode 673 032. & 0495/276-5354. Fax 0495/276-6448. www.tajhotels.com. residency.calicut@ tajhotels.com. 74 units. $80 standard double, $90 residency double (includes breakfast and happy hour); $110 executive suite (includes breakfast). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; kids’ pool; health club; Ayurvedic center; travel assistance; car hire; business center; currency exchange; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; laundry, dry cleaning; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, safe.

I N & A R O U N D W YA N A D

It takes about 2 hours to drive the 90km (56 miles) from the coastal city of Calicut to Vythiri, the nearest village to many of Wyanad’s resorts, the best of which is Tranquil Resorts (reviewed below). Note that Green Magic Nature Resort, once considered “the best tree-house experience in Asia,” is now run-down and not recommended. Besides Tranquil, you may want to check out Vythiri Resort (Vythiri, Lakkidi P.O., Wyanad 673 576; & 04936/25-5366; fax 04936/25-5368; www.vythiriresort.com), not least for its excellent Serena spa with Ayurvedic facilities. Doubles cost between $68 and $80 for a tribal hut (avoid) and $80 to $110 for a cottage (recommended); all meals are included. This resort is extremely popular with large family and tour groups, however, especially in the summer, so if you’re looking for a little more peace and quiet, head instead to Edakkal Hermitage (& 04936/22-1860), located near the Edakkal Caves, which feature wall carvings dating from the Neolithic Age. Cottages have good views. The resort organizes unusual and rather romantic candlelit dinners in a cave. Book a cottage (Rs 3,300/$75) rather than the unconvincing tree house (Green Magic Nature Resort has a lot to answer for!). Tranquil Resorts This is the way to experience life on a 160-hectare (400acre) working coffee and vanilla plantation, located at the edge of the Wyanad National Park, thanks to the warm hospitality of Victor and Ranjini Dey. Situated in a 70-year-old planter’s bungalow with rosewood floors, accommodations are aptly named Coffee, Cloves, and Cardamom, and are individually and tastefully designed, some with a glass-ceiling bath area that allows natural light to stream in. If you’ve always dreamed of sleeping in a tree house with the sights and sounds of a rainforest canopy, then Victor’s latest project, a gorgeous tree villa 40m (128 ft.) aboveground and spread across three bright Flame of the Forest trees, is it. You get a personal balcony and deck with cane chairs and table, TV, and telephone. The elegantly designed bathroom comes with flush toilet and shower. Do bear in mind, however, that this is a forest, so insects may be the accompaniment to your sundowner on the deck in the evenings, though the villa itself has been secured with window nets. The Deys, both fine raconteurs, are very good about arranging tours of tea, pepper, cardamom, coffee, banana, and coconut plantations as well as a variety of walks on the estate, all clearly signposted, taking you through fabulous scenery. You can also see the workings of the estate, explore local sights, or take a trip into the park or to Edakkal caves. The staff cook wonderful meals with guest preferences in mind. The resort has a pool and an Ayurvedic Wing. Kuppamudi Coffee Estate, Kolagapara P.O., Sultan Bathery, Wyanad 673 591. & 04936/22-0244. Fax 04936/222358. www.tranquilresorts.com. [emailprotected]. Reservations: TravelsKerala, Karimpatta Rd., opposite Medical Trust Hospital, Pallimukku, Kochi 682 016. & 0484/238-1038. Fax 0484/236-4485. [emailprotected]. 6 units. $275 deluxe double; $330 Tree Villa. Rates include all meals, some sightseeing, and taxes. AE, MC, V (credit cards taken for room only; all other charges require cash payment). Amenities: Restaurant; pool; Ayurvedic treatments; plantation tours; sightseeing; laundry. In room: TV.

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NEAR KANNUR

The best place to overnight in this northernmost part of Kerala is a family-run guesthouse called Ayisha Manzil in Thalassery, which enjoys a majestic position atop a cliff with a terrace overlooking the sea. Built by an East India Company tradesman in 1862, this lovely two-story mansion was bought by a family of Muslim spice traders in 1900. Today, it is still run by the Moosas, and combines modern facilities with sumptuous wooden antiques and unique family heirlooms. The guesthouse has a pool and a dining room where traditional Keralite and Malabari dishes are served. The six en-suite guest rooms differ in size and layout; upstairs accommodations are more private. Each room has either one or two double beds. Doubles, including all meals and beach transfers, cost around $175. If you want to drink anything more than beer, you must bring your own alcohol. If it’s a thoroughly unusual dining experience you’re after, ask if you can be served breakfast on “the island”; if not, settle for breakfast on the beach instead. Nearby excursions include outings to Thalassery’s fruit markets, and a tour through the property’s original cinnamon plantation, apparently the largest in Asia. Ayisha Manzil (Court Rd., Thalassery 670 101; & 0490/234-1590; [emailprotected]) is 80km (50 miles) from Calicut’s airport, and Thalassery (or Tellicherry) is served by trains from Calicut as well as Bangalore and Chennai. Transfers are easily organized.

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7 Tamil Nadu: The Temple Tour I

f your idea of India is one of ancient temples thick with incense and chanting masses worshipping dimly lit deities covered with vermilion paste and crushed marigolds, then Tamil Nadu is where your mental images will be replaced by vivid memories. Occupying a long stretch of the Bay of Bengal coastline known as the Coromandel Coast, India’s southernmost state is dominated by a rich cultural and religious heritage that touches every aspect of life. For many, this is the Hindu heartland—home to one of India’s oldest civilizations, the Dravidians, who pretty much escaped the Mughal influence that permeated so much of the cultural development in the North. Ruled predominantly by the powerful Chola, Pallava, and Pandyan dynasties, Dravidian culture flourished for more than a thousand years, developing a unique political and social hierarchy. In spite of globalization and the political dominance of the North, Tamil Nadu has retained its fervent nationalist sensibility—an almost zealous pride in Tamil language and literature and in its delicious and varied cuisines. Thanks to heavy summer downpours, Tamil Nadu is green and lush—particularly in the Cauvery Delta toward the west, where the great Dravidian kingdoms were established and some of the finest temples built, like the 11th-century Brihadeshvara Temple, situated in Thanjavur, the Chola capital for 400 years. By contrast, Chennai (or Madras, as many still refer to it), the capital established by the British in the 17th century, exudes no such appeal. It’s primarily of

interest as a gateway to some of the region’s best attractions, like nearby Kanchipuram, one of the seven sacred cities of India, and Sri Venkateshvara Temple (in Tirupati, just over the border in Andhra Pradesh), said to be the wealthiest temple in the world. There, devotees line up for hours—even days— to hand over an annual 1.5 billion rupees to help Vishnu settle his debt with the God of Wealth. Just 2 hours south of Chennai lies the seaside village of Mamallapuram, where, right near the water’s edge, the Pallavas built the earliest examples of monumental architecture in southern India during the 5th and 9th centuries. From here it’s a relaxing 21⁄2-hour drive farther south to charming Pondicherry, a former French coastal colony. Although the French officially left years ago, Pondicherry’s Gallic spirit is still very much alive—traditional Indian snack joints feature signs proclaiming MEALS READY; BIEN VENUE; locals clad in lungis (traditional Indian clothing) converse in French; and gorgeous antiquesfilled Indo-French colonial mansions have been restored as hotels—the kind of “temple” that will appeal to the lazy hedonist in you. Having caught your breath in the wide boulevards of Pondicherry, you can either travel to Tiruchirappalli, exploring the holy temple town of Srirangam and nearby Thanjavur, or head to Sri Meenakshi-Sundareshwar Temple at Madurai. A place of intense spiritual activity, this temple is where 15,000 pilgrims gather daily to celebrate the divine union of the goddess Meenakshi

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Tsunami Aftermath On December 26, 2004, an earthquake measuring 9.0 on the Richter scale occurred off Indonesia’s coast, triggering the tsunami that sped across the Indian Ocean, destroying everything in its path. The Andaman Islands and Tamil Nadu were the worst-affected Indian states, with an estimated loss of 8,000 lives. In Tamil Nadu, the districts of Nagapattinam and Cuddalore suffered most; Chennai’s Marina Beach and Kanyakumari were also hit, but suffered minimal damage—in fact, the Coromandel Coast’s tourist sites remained more or less undamaged, and new discoveries were made at Mamallapuram when the wall of water receded (see below). At press time, an internationally coordinated high-tech tsunami early-warning system, to be shared by 27 countries around the Indian Ocean, was being put in place; at the same time, India was developing an indigenous warning system to be instated by early 2007.

(Parvati) and her eternal lover, SunNote: Kanyakumari, the venerated dareshwar (Shiva)—one of the most southernmost tip of Tamil Nadu, is disevocative experiences in all of India. cussed in chapter 6.

1 Chennai Chennai is neither ancient nor lovely. Formerly called Madras, the capital of Tamil Nadu is a teeming, sprawling, bustling industrial metropolis established on the site of a fishing village in 1639 as the first British settlement in India. Today it is often choked by pollution, acrid smells—and people. The city is only marginally fascinating—it’s a strange mix of British Raj–era monuments, Portuguese churches, Hindu temples, and one of the longest urban beaches on earth. Most travelers arrive here simply because it’s a transport hub and soon leave, discouraged by the intense heat, polluted air, and fever-pitch crowds. One of its big attractions—Kanchipuram, city of “a thousand temples”—is a day excursion away, while the region’s most celebrated tourist attraction lies 2 hours south at Mamallapuram, a spectacular World Heritage Site, where you’d do well to overnight.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & AWAY By Air Jet Airways has daily flights to Chennai’s international Meenambakkam Airport (& 044/2256-1818) from all major destinations in India; and both Madurai and Tiruchirappalli can be reached by flights from here. Anna International Terminal and Kamaraj Domestic Terminal are situated about 12km (71⁄2 miles) from the center. The 30-minute taxi ride from the airport to downtown (Mount Rd.) Chennai should cost Rs 250 ($5.70). By Train Chennai has two major railway stations. Chennai Central (Georgetown) connects Chennai with most major destinations around India, while Egmore is the point of arrival and departure for trains within Tamil Nadu or Kerala. Some trains from within the state now also pull in at Tambaram Station, an hour from Chennai. You can get recorded train information by dialing the computerized & 1361 (remember to have your train number). To plan train travel, we suggest you go online to www.indianrail. gov.in or www.southernrailway.org. Or book your train at your hotel, at a travel agency (see below), or at the Rajaji Bhavan Complex (ground floor) in Besant Nagar.

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Fun Fact

Rule of the Screen Gods

It’s not just temple gods who are worshipped here—much as in California, screen gods are adored by the local population, enough to elect them to the highest political office: in fact, the majority of Tami Nadu’s leaders have kick-started their careers on the big screen. Across the state, you’ll see massive billboards featuring the swollen face of Jayalalitha, a controversial actress-turned-politician who has been in and out of political power for 14 years but is currently Tamil Nadu’s incorrigible chief minister. Kicked out of office on corruption charges in 2001, she jumped back in to reclaim her position, tossing her successor in jail. Once again declaring herself the voice of the people, she immediately set to work initiating a piece of state legislation to prevent the conversion of Hindus to other religions—a bill that no doubt earned her great favor with the powerful Brahmins who control the temples that so deeply influence the lives of the ordinary people.

By Road You may not realize it by glancing at a map, but Tamil Nadu is a fairly massive chunk of India, and it will take over 15 hours to drive from Chennai to Kanyakumari in the far southwest of the state. Nevertheless, getting around is best done from the relative comfort of a rented car, with a driver who knows the way to the best temples, and who knows when and how to avoid peak traffic. The drive between Chennai and Bangalore, in Karnataka, should take around 8 hours along National Highway 4 (though you’re better off taking the Shatabdi Express train for this journey). If you’re moving on to Mamallapuram (about 2 hr. from Chennai), take the East Coast Road. Regular buses are available for travel to almost any point in the state, Bangalore, and Tirupati; contact the State Express Transport Corporation Bus Stand (& 044/2479-4707; daily 7am–9pm). VISITOR INFORMATION For general tourist information, contact Indiatourism (& 1913). Staff at the Indiatourism offices (154 Anna Salai; & 044/28460285 or -1459; fax 044/2846-0193; [emailprotected]; Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm), across the road from Spencer’s, are busy but attentive. Hallo! Madras is a highly recommended monthly booklet with detailed information (Rs 10/25¢). CityInfo’s useful Chennai This Fortnight is another comprehensive visitors’ guide; it highlights hotels, restaurants, and shopping options, and has listings for just about everything, from suggested walks to entertainment events. Salaam Chennai (Rs 25/55¢) is another similar publication released every 2 months. Glance is a tourist information booklet distributed four times a year; it covers both Chennai and Pondicherry. ORIENTATION & NEIGHBORHOODS Extending westward from the Bay of Bengal, Chennai is quite unwieldy. Linking the north and south of the city is Anna Salai, which starts out as G.S.T. Road (or Mount Rd.) near the airport in the southwest, and terminates at Fort St. George in George Town in the northeast. Two major rivers snake their way through the city—the Cooum River in the north, and the Adyar River several kilometers south. Between these, the most popular section of Marina Beach stretches between the sea and the city’s busiest districts, where you’ll find most

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Tamil Nadu 50 mi

ANDHRA PRADESH

N 0

50 km

4 Bangalore

Chennai

Vellore

(Madras) Kanchipuram Mamallapuram

Krishnagiri

KARNATAKA

Gingee

Tiruvannanmalai

Auroville Stanley

MUDUMALAI WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

Pondicherry Vriddhachalam Salem

Udhagamandalam (Ooty) Coonoor

45 Namakkal

TAMIL NADU

Swamimalai

Karaikal

Srirangam

Coimbatore

Kumbakonam Tiruchirapalli Thanjavur

INDIRA GANDHI WILDLIFE SANCTUARY Kodaikanal

KODIKKARAI BIRD SANCTUARY

Dindigul

Bay of Bengal

Madurai

Rajapalaivam Alappuzha

Cabo da Rama

Kollam

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

Pa lk S tra it

KERALA 49 Ramanathapuram

Tuticorin

Jaffna

Rameshwaram

Gulf of Mannar

SRI LANKA

Kovalam

Lakshadweep Sea

Padmanabhapuram Kanyakumari

New NewDelhi Delhi

MAHARASHTRA

Mumbai (Bombay)

Bay of Bengal TAMIL NADU

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Tips

Heritage Walks

Mylapore Times conducts two interesting heritage walks on Sundays from July to March. The Mylapore–Santhome Walk covers the ancient temples and churches and heritage houses of Chennai’s old neighborhoods, the predominantly Hindu Mylapore, and the adjoining Christian Santhome. The walk starts at 6:45am; some sections are traveled by van. The fee is Rs 150 ($35). The Fort St. George Walk covers the 370-year-old fort, continues through old British offices and residences, St. Mary’s Church, and army barracks, and ends at the Fort Museum. The walk starts at 7:30am and costs Rs 100 ($2.30). Each walk takes 3 hours (other months by special request); call Vasantha (& 044/2498-2244).

of its hotels and a number of attractions. George Town lies just north of the Cooum’s confluence with the Bay of Bengal. Southwest of George Town (around the Cooum River), Egmore and Triplicane form the heart of the commercial city. Farther south, the neighborhoods of San Thome and Mylapore are where you’ll find the most significant religious monuments—San Thome Cathedral and Kapaleshvara Temple. GETTING AROUND By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Chennai is a large, sprawling city, and its many sights are spread out and quite impossible to cover on foot. Autorickshaw drivers in this city are particularly adept at squeezing impossible fares out of foreign visitors—you would be well-warned to always fix a price upfront. Unlike other large cities, Chennai does not have taxis cruising the streets or idling at taxi stands. If you want a taxi, you will have to phone for one—for short distances, this is hardly worth the long wait or cost. For longer rides, call taxis are a good option and run by fairly reliable meters that start at a base fare of Rs 15 (35¢). You can also negotiate flat rates, but always check whether there is a minimum charge. Some taxi companies ask for a minimum of Rs 30 (70¢); once the meter crosses that amount, the indicated fare applies. After 9pm, fares are surcharged anything from 25% more to double. Try Bharat Call Taxi (& 044/2814-2233) or Chennai Call Taxi (& 044/2561-0355). In “Fast Facts: Chennai” below, see “Taxis” for more call-taxi options, and “Car Rentals” for longer (1 or more days) excursions. GUIDED TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS You can sign up for a range of tours of the city and the entire state at Tamil Nadu Tourism (4 E.V.R. Rd., opposite Central Railway Station, Park Town; & 044/2538-2916 or 044/2538-4356; fax 044/2536-1385; www.tamilnadutourism.org). Again, most of these tours are geared toward domestic tourists. We recommend that you approach a private operator instead, such as Sita World Travel (& 044/2825-2943 or 044/2827-0985; www.sitaindia.com; maa@sita india.com); Travel House (& 044/2811-6090 or 044/28111206; fax 044/2811-1206; www.travelhouseindia.com); or Madura Travel Service (& 044/2819-2002 or 044/ 2819-3858; fax 044/2819-1813; [emailprotected]; www.maduratravel.com).

FAST FACTS: Chennai Airlines Phone numbers you may need are: Jet Airways (& 044/2841-4141, 044/ 2858-7910, -7920, or airport 044/2256-1818); Indian Airlines (& 141; reservations

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044/2345-3305 or -3366, airport 044/2256-1971); and Air Sahara (& 044/52087070, airport 044/2256-0909, inquiries 044/2256-1300). Ambulance Dial & 94440-78878. American Express Second Phase, 501 Spencer Plaza, Anna Salai; & 044/28492582. Open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 6:30pm; Saturday 9:30am to 2:30pm. Area Code The area code for Chennai is 044. ATMs UTI, ICICI, and IDBI banks have numerous ATMs around the city; ask your hotel concierge about a machine near you. There’s an HSBC ATM in Spencer Plaza. Banks & Currency Exchange Thomas Cook: Eldorado Building, 112 Nungambakkam High Rd. (& 044/2827-2610); Ceebros Centre, 45 Monteith Rd. (& 044/ 2855-3276 or -4600); 20 Rajaji Rd., George Town (& 044/2534-2374 or 044/ 2533-0105). Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm. Bookstores Landmark (3 Nungambakkam High Rd./M.G. Rd.; & 044/2827-9637 or 044/2823-7438; open Mon–Sat 9am–9pm, Sun 10:30am–9pm) is Chennai’s largest and most popular bookstore, carrying books, music, quality stationery, and other items. Higginbothams (116 Anna Salai; & 044/2256-0586; daily 9am–7:30pm) has a massive selection of books and Indian music. Car Rentals Europcar (& 044/2852-0946 or -6090) and Welcome Tours and Travels (& 044/2846-0614 or -0908) both have a wide range of vehicles for rent at reasonable rates. Other car-rental companies include Aviation Express (& 044/ 2256-1013, -0252, or 044/2435-0195) and Bala Service (& 044/2822-4444). Drugstore Located on the second floor of Spencer Plaza (769 Anna Salai) is Health & Glow (& 044/ 5205-6013; Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 11am–7pm). Embassies & Consulates United Kingdom: 24 Anderson Rd.; & 044/52192151; Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4pm. United States: 220 Anna Salai; & 044/28112000; Monday to Friday 8:15am to 5pm. Canada: No 18 Yafa Towers, Khader Nawaz Khan Road, Nungambakkam; & 044/2833-0887; Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 5:30pm, Friday 8:30am to 1pm. New Zealand: “Maithri,” 32 Cathedral Rd.; & 044/2811-2472/3; Monday to Friday 8am to 4:45pm, Saturday 8 to 11:45am. Emergencies Call Apollo Hospital at & 044/2829-3333 or -0200. Hospitals Apollo Hospital (21 Greams Lane, off Greams Rd.; & 044/2829-3333 or -0200) offers the city’s top service and also has a good round-the-clock pharmacy. Police For emergencies, dial & 100. For traffic police, dial & 103. Post Office Although the General Post Office (Rajaji Salai; & 044) is in George Town, you’re best off making use of the Head Post Office on Anna Salai (& 044/2852-1892 or 044/2851-8668. Its hours are daily 10am to 8:30pm. Taxis For call-taxi services worth recommending, see “Getting Around,” above. Additional call-taxi services include Fast Track (& 044/2473-2020) and Rent-aBenz (& 044/2822-4444). Generally, these services charge a minimum of Rs 30 (70¢) for the first 3km, and Rs 8 (20¢) per kilometer after that. Drivers also expect a tip (optional, of course) of about Rs 10 (25¢) per hour.

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WHAT TO SEE & DO Unfortunately, the city’s monuments are very spread out, and getting around can be nightmarish; select a few choice attractions and get an air-conditioned taxi for the day. Presuming you’ve already spent the night in Chennai, get a predawn start by taking in the early-morning activities along the 12km (71⁄2-mile) Marina Beach; you can watch fishing boats being launched (around 6am). If you’d rather sleep in, save the beach for dusk, when it becomes a colorful pageant of boys playing cricket, families strolling, vendors flogging souvenirs, and food carts offering fast-food snacks. The world’s second-longest city beach, it has recently been completely cleaned up; the best area is in the vicinity of Triplicane, along Kamaraj Road. The 8th-century Parthasarathy Temple (off Triplicane High Rd., west of South Beach Rd.; daily 7am–noon and 4–8pm) is near the main drag of Marina Beach; dedicated to Krishna, it is believed to be Chennai’s oldest temple. South lies Mylapore’s Basilica of San Thome (San Thome High Rd., Mylapore; daily 6am–6pm), where the so-called final resting place of Thomas the Apostle has become a neon-lit attraction. Legend has it that St. Thomas, one of Christ’s disciples, was martyred at St. Thomas Mount (see below) after spending the final years of his life preaching on a nearby beach. Stainedglass windows recount the saint’s tale, and wooden panels depict Christ’s final days on earth. The interior is also decked with bits of tinsel and neon-pink polystyrene hearts dangling from the ceiling; other modern kitsch additions include a relief-sculpted crucifix with a neon orange border and a halo of fairy lights. Near the basilica is Kapaleshvara Temple (off Kutchery Rd. and Chitrukullan N. St., Mylapore; daily 6am–12:30pm and 4–8:30pm), a classic example of Dravidian architecture, where thronging devotees will give you an idea of what Tamil Nadu’s devout worship is all about. The temple is marked by a 36m (120-ft.) goparum (gateway) tower adorned with detailed figures and inscriptions dating back to A.D. 1250. The place really comes alive during the Arupathumoovar Festival, 10 days in March. Built by the Portuguese, nearby Luz Church (Luz Church Rd., Mylapore) is the oldest church in Chennai. If it’s peace and quiet that appeal to you, visit the 16th-century Church of our Lady of Expectations (Senhora da Expectação), atop St. Thomas Mount. Built in 1523 by the Portuguese, the little church provides fine views over the city and is serenely removed from the city’s nonstop commotion. Alternatively, spend some time roaming the gardens of the Theosophical Society, a sprawling 270-acre campus of rambling pathways and countless trees (do make time to view the Adayar Banyan tree, said to be 400 years old). The society’s headquarters are the Huddlestone mansion, built in 1776, where relief imagery and quotations representing various faiths are on display (E. Adyar; & 044/2491-3528, -7198, or -2904; daily 9am–4:30pm). Chennai’s Government Museum (Pantheon Rd.; & 044/2819-3238; admission to Pantheon Complex Rs 250/$5.70; Sat–Thurs 9:30am–5pm) is considered one of the finest receptacles of bronze sculpture in the country; visit if you’re keen on museums or need to escape from the sun. One of the buildings in this complex is the beautifully renovated Museum Theatre, where you can perhaps catch a dance or a music performance. While in Egmore, pop into St. Andrew’s Kirk (off Periyar E.V.R. High Rd., northeast of Egmore Station, Egmore; & 044/2561-2608; daily 9am–5pm)—inspired by London’s St. Martin-in-the-Fields, St. Andrew’s steeple rises 50m (160 ft.) into the air; you can climb this to reach a small balcony for a good city view. To experience grand architectural heritage, set aside a few hours to visit Fort St.

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George (Kamaraj Rd.)—the first bastion of British power in India, constructed in 1640. The cluster of gray and white colonial buildings with pillared neoclassical facades now houses the Tamil Nadu State Legislature and the Secretariat. Visit its Fort Museum (& 044/2567-1127; Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm; admission Rs 100/$2.30; still camera without flash allowed with permission from tourist office) to see the collection of portraiture, oil paintings, sketches, and etchings that reveal the nature of colonial life in early Madras. In the compound is Asia’s oldest existing Anglican church, St. Mary’s (daily 9:30am–5pm), incidentally where Yale University’s founder, Gov. Elihu Yale, was married. The church has numerous 17th- and 18th-century gravestones— look for the Latin memorial to Mrs. Elizabeth Baker (1652), believed to be the oldest British inscription in India. Just north of the fort is the red-sandstone High Court (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm), built in the mid–19th century in the Indo-Saracenic style, and still in use today. Guided tours of the building take in the various courtrooms, many which are remarkably decorated. Busy George Town, bounded by Rajaji Salai and N.S.C Bose Road, was once known as “Black Town,” a racist appellation for a settlement occupied by East India Company textile workers who came from Andhra Pradesh in the mid1600s (the name “Chennai,” incidentally, is derived from the name given to the area by the dyers and weavers who lived here: Chennapatnam). Today, George Town is a bustling collection of streets that should be explored on foot—not a good idea in the middle of the day.

DAY TRIP TO THE SACRED CITY OF KANCHIPURAM All of Kanchipuram’s roads lead to goparums, the unmistakable temple gateways that tower over you as you prepare to enter the sacred shrines. This 2,000-year-old city of “a thousand temples”—also called Kanchi—features on many travel itineraries, and is best seen as a day trip out of Chennai. With a rich heritage, it’s famous as a seat of both Shaivaite and Vaishnavite devotion and for exquisite silk saris. It was here that the Dravidian style really had its roots, and the sheer profusion of temples makes this an ideal place to get a feel for how South Indian temple architecture has developed over the centuries. The oldest structure in town is Kailasnath Temple (Putleri St.; 1.5km/3⁄4 mile out of the town center; daily 6am–12:30pm and 4–8:30pm), entered via a small gateway. Built by the same Pallava king responsible for Mamallapuram’s Shore Temple, Kailasnath shows signs of evolution from its seaside forebear; it’s also less overwhelming than many of the more grandiose Tamil temples. The 57m (180-ft.) white goparum marking the entrance to the 9th-century Shaivite Ekambareswara Temple (Puthupalayam St.; 6am–12:30pm and 4–8pm; non-Hindus not allowed in sanctum) was added as late as the 16th century. Through a passageway, visitors enter a courtyard and the “thousand-pillared” hall (though the number of pillars has dwindled significantly over the years). Within the temple, a mango tree believed to be 2,500 years old apparently yields four different varieties of the fruit. Legend has it that it was here Shiva and Parvati were married, and that Parvati fashioned a lingam (phallic symbol) of earth, one of the five sacred Hindu elements. As a test of her devotion, Shiva sent a flood through the town that destroyed everything in its path except the lingam, which she protected from the deluge with her body. Be on the lookout for touts who will aggressively try to get a donation out of you at this temple. Dedicated to the Shakti cult, which celebrates creation’s female aspect, the 14thcentury Kamakshi Amman Temple (Mangadu; daily 6am–12:30pm and 4–8:30pm) was built by the Cholas. Apparently, the tank there is so sacred that demons sent to

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Silk Route In general, visitors are drawn to Kanchipuram for two main reasons: its famed temple and its silk. The city is famous for producing the most exquisite handloomed silk saris in the world—called Kanjeevarams, the bridalwear of choice that become coveted heirlooms. A single Kanjeevaram sari costs anything from Rs 2,500 to Rs 100,000 ($57–$2,285), and can—depending on the intricacy of the pattern (often taken from temple carvings) and vividness of the colors (zari, or gold thread, is often interwoven with the silk)—take from 10 days to a month to weave. Of course, you don’t have to wear a sari to covet the silk; plenty of haute couture designers have discovered its beauty, and any fashionista worth her salt is in the know about Kanchipuram silk.

bathe were cleansed of their malevolent ways. Other worthwhile temples include Vaikunta Perumal Temple and Varadaraja Temple, both of which are dedicated to Vishnu. Note that Kanchi’s temples close from 12:30 until 4pm, which means that you’ll need to head out rather early or—better still—arrive in time for evening puja (prayer). However, traffic into and out of Chennai can get hellish during peak hours. If you’re hot and hungry, head for the air-conditioned room at the vegetarian restaurant in Hotel Saravana Bhavan (504 Gandhi Rd.; & 04112/22-2505; 6am–10:30pm), where you can feast on reasonably priced South Indian dosas (savory pancakes) or order a thali (multicourse platter). Kanchipuram is 80km (50 miles) southwest of Chennai. Ask about guided tours of the temple town at the tourist office. Otherwise, guides can be picked up around Kailasnath Temple for around Rs 250 to Rs 300 ($4.55–$6.85); ask to see certification.

WHERE TO STAY Given the generally insalubrious conditions of much of Chennai city, you’re best off forking over some cash for a decent hotel, of which Chennai has a large inventory, providing reliable comfort and standardized service. Best of all, head down the coast to Fisherman’s Cove resort, which is right on the beach, a mere 50 minutes’ drive (28 km/17 miles) from Chennai airport and about 20km (12 miles) from Tamil Nadu’s top temple destination (see Mamallapuram’s lodging reviews, later in this section). Should you decide to spend the night in town, The Park (reviewed below; don’t confuse it with the ITC Park Sheraton and Towers on TTK Rd.), which blew the lid off Tamil Nadu’s hospitality industry when it opened in 2002, is the place to be for fans of innovative contemporary design, with great night-life options. If, on the other hand, you prefer old-world charm and a place with some history, the lovely, laid-back Taj Connemara is your best bet (again, reviewed below). If for some reason these choices are unavailable, options include the Taj Coromandel (www.tajhotels.com; from $225) and two Sheratons (www.welcomgroup.com)—of the latter we recommend the smart ITC Chola Sheraton ($185). In a similar price range, but nearer the airport, the Radisson GRT (www.radisson.com) was offering great discounts at press time (doubles at $100, including breakfast and transfers). Even closer to the airport is the recently upgraded Trident Hilton, where you can get a courtyard- or poolfacing room for $170 (& 044/2234-4747; www.trident-hilton.com). Note: Many of the city’s upmarket hotels offer significant discounts on published rates depending on

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the season and occupancy; ask about options. Also ask hotels about courtesy airport shuttle/transfers. For travelers on a budget, prospects are limited. Your best option is the YWCA International Guest House (1086 EVR Periyar Salai, behind Egmore Station; & 044/ 2532-4234; fax 044/2532-4263; [emailprotected]; doubles from Rs 786/$18), which has clean accommodations with en-suite bathrooms and Western toilets. It has a restaurant, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Chennai’s only other recommendable budget option is Nilgiris Nest (58 Radhakrishna Salai, Mylapore; & 044/2811-5111 or -5222), where standard doubles with breakfast go for Rs 1,800 ($41). The Park Even the most jaded visitor to one of India’s dullest cities will be bowled over by this modish Chennai hotel, a dazzling contemporary space that could easily occupy the pages of Wallpaper. Guest rooms are a fabulous blend of comfort, style, and functionalism—for a mere $10 more, opt for a luxury room. Guest rooms follow the same contemporary-chic design of the public areas, making up for the lack of views with thoughtful, artistic touches, and the beds are tremendously comfortable. If you don’t get a room here, be sure to pop in for a bite or a drink—this is where you’ll find the best nightlife options in the city: the Leather Bar and Pasha, a nightclub (see below). The fabulous 24-hour eatery off the lobby, Six-O-One (601), is recommended as much for its contemporary design as for its unusual, varied menu—order mezze platters and seafood tapas to share, or opt for the fabulous seared fish kebab, prepared in the tandoor oven and served with a garlic sauce. The Park’s other popular dining options include Lotus, a popular Thai restaurant; and Aqua, a cool cafe where the outdoor seating, on diwans (Indian recliner sofas) near the pool, is terrific. 601 Anna Salai, Chennai 600 006. & 044/5214-4000. Fax 044/5214-4100. www.theparkhotels.com. fo.che@thepark hotels.com. 214 units. $205 deluxe double, $215 luxury double; $225–$700 suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; nightclub; health club; gym; spa; travel assistance; car hire; secretarial services; currency exchange; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffeemaking facilities, hair dryer, electronic safe.

A turbaned doorman greets you at the entrance to the marbleand-chandelier lobby of this well-priced business hotel. Conveniently located and efficiently managed, this is one of Chennai’s best moderately priced options, but it has no pool. Executive guest units are done in elegant albeit slightly old-fashioned decor, with comfortable beds, writing desks, and bathtubs. Deluxe guest rooms come with all the modern conveniences but are a little smaller, with an Indian-meets-faux-rococo flavor. Suites are plush, but not overstated, with two of everything and elegant highbacked sofas, armchairs, and a chaise longue in the sitting room.

Ramada Raj Park

180 T.T.K. Rd., Alwarpet, Chennai 600 018. & 044/2498-7777, 044/2499-3738, or 044/2467-0002. Fax 044/24990749. www.rajpark.com. [emailprotected]. 87 units. $70 deluxe double, $80 executive double; $113 suite. $15 extra bed. 25% tax. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; car hire; shop; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities (executive and suites only), hair dryer.

A Taxing State of Affairs With the introduction of a uniform countrywide value-added-tax (VAT) in mid2005, the tax you pay in luxury hotels across the country is 12.5%. However, Tamil Nadu still levies a hefty 73.5% surcharge on imported liquor.

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Taj Connemara Book a heritage room at Chennai’s oldest five-star hotel (it’s been around since 1891) for colonial splendor and old-world charm right in the heart of Chennai. Although the exterior is very unprepossessing, when you enter you are transported into another era, with gracious public spaces, wide corridors, and highceilinged rooms, all tastefully decorated with wooden engravings, temple sculptures, and luxury fabrics. Add an attentive staff and the best restaurant in town, and you have a recipe for total comfort. Though all categories of rooms have top amenities (but no views to speak of ), and the deluxe rooms have recently been revamped, they are very much hotel rooms. Our pick is without a doubt one of the striking heritage rooms, the largest in the city, with antique furniture, rich drapes, and soft furnishings in shades of gold and brown; the luxurious setting is fit for a king—even the room’s ceiling fan rotates both ways, letting you decide which way the breeze should blow. Binny Rd., Chennai 600 002. & 044/5500-0555. Fax 044/5500-0000. www.tajhotels.com. Connemara.chennai@taj hotels.com. 150 units. $180 superior double, $195 deluxe garden-facing double, $205 deluxe pool-facing double, $240 heritage double; $300–$500 suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; 24-hr. coffee shop; pool; health club; travel desk; business center; currency exchange; salon; room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, ironing equipment.

WHERE TO DINE If you’ve overdosed on tandoori chicken, kebabs, and other North Indian heavies, Chennai is a great place to discover the unique and varied flavors of South India, particularly the cuisine of the Chettinad, best sampled at Raintree, the beautiful alfresco restaurant at the Taj Connemara (reviewed below). For reasonably priced but excellent Chettinad fare while you’re sightseeing in Mylapore, stop at Anjappar (Nungambakkam; & 044/2821-7200; also other city locations), especially for the rabbit or quail. Or make your way to the superb Kaaraikudi (Radhakrishna Salai; & 044/2491-0900; other city locations as well), where the grilled stuffed pomfret or the special chicken pepper fry with appams are personal favorites. Both places also have great thalis (multicourse platters) for Rs 150 ($35). Note, however, that the ambience and service lack the finesse of more upmarket establishments. For lunch on the run, walk into any one of Saravana Bhavan’s 17 restaurants (& 044/2811-5977) for a delicious, authentic South Indian vegetarian meal. Order the special Tamil Nadu thali, an assortment of 23 items for just Rs 85 ($1.90), served in fairly basic surroundings. If that much food seems overwhelming, order a mini-tiffin (an assortment of tasty breakfast items) and a traditional South Indian coffee. You’ll also find many of the world’s tastes represented in the city. Besides trying the classy 601 at The Park (see above), head for Bella Ciao (4 Shree Krishna Enclave, off Water Land Dr., Kottivakkam Beach; & 044/2451-1130), where Ciro Cattaneo serves authentic pizzas and pastas at a pleasant outdoor venue near the beach. For healthy dining in stylish surroundings, head for Citrus (Savera Hotel, Radhakrishna Salai, Mylapore; & 044/2811-4700), where fruit- and vegetable-based dishes and light cuts of meat and fish are cooked in unsaturated oil or low-fat dressing. Hip Asia (& 044/5500-0000), the Taj Connemara’s brand-new restaurant, is another hot spot for a meal that’s not so heavy on the gastric system. Here chefs twirl knives and jars at the Japanese teppanyaki counter. Delicate Vietnamese and Thai (avoid the Malay) dishes are superbly crafted, especially the starters, and served in a trendy setting that transforms itself from a lunch to dinner space. Chennai also has several shop-and-unwind stops worth considering. Moca Café, better known by the store’s name, Amethyst (Jeypore Colony, Gopalapuram;

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& 044/5835-1627), is set in a delightful old colonial bungalow where you can choose to sit indoors or outdoors under the shade of huge, century-old trees. Kiran Rao, the cafe/shop owner, serves organic gourmet coffee and great cakes. Upstairs you’ll find designer clothing in Western designs and Indian fabrics. Some evenings, performances or book or poetry readings are on offer. Chamiers (Chamiers Rd., across from ITC Park Sheraton; & 044/5203-0734), situated in a charming bungalow, offers food similar to that at the Moca Café, juices, and fresh salads served in the shade of an almond tree. It’s attached to Anokhi, the leading Jaipur design store (see chapter 10), where you can buy Western-style clothes designed in traditional India hand-block print fabric. Annalakshmi INDIAN VEGETARIAN Chennai’s most famous vegetarian establishment is jam-packed with Indian artifacts and objets d’art. Unusually enough, it is administered by volunteers. It was founded in 1995 by an Indian guru named Swami Shantanand, and the food is prepared by local mothers, grandmothers, and devotees of the guru, with proceeds going to various charitable projects. Today it has outlets in Singapore, Perth, and Kuala Lumpur. Various set menus provide a good introduction to the different tastes of Indian cuisine; there are separate menus for lunch and dinner, and an entire menu is devoted to juices. From the a la carte selection, try French beans coconut curry or potato Chettinad. In season, try the herbal wine known as ambrosia aroghya paan, said to have Ayurvedic healing properties, or the date-and-honey milkshake. Another unusual drink is the keshria chandan sherbet (Rs 140/$3.25), a drink flavored with saffron, sandalwood paste, and other spices— beyond exotic. 804 Anna Salai. & 044/2852-5109 or 044/5214-1210. Reservations essential. Main courses Rs 180–Rs 600 ($4.10–$14); set menus Rs 350–Rs 2,000 ($8–$46). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2:45pm and 7:30–9:45pm.

Benjarong THAI Popular with Chennai’s international diplomats, Benjarong (the name refers to the hand-painted gold porcelain used in Royal Thai households) is the city’s best Thai restaurant. You’re welcomed with a ginger-flavored drink—a delicately refreshing concoction to whet the appetite—and with a selection of taste-size treats called mein kam, wrapped in leaves. The spicy tom yam soup is possibly the best you’ll get outside Bangkok, made using goong (prawn brains) and tempered with ginger. Signature dishes include chargrilled duck (ped yang) done to perfection; also wonderful is spicy gai pahd bai graprou, ground chicken tossed with chilies and hot basil. If you’re up for something simpler, green curry prawn is a standout favorite, as is the chicken wrapped in banana leaf; or go for fish delicately flavored with tamarind. Top off the evening with tub tim siam (water chestnut in chilled coconut milk), jackfruit custard (in summer), or sankaya fathong (coconut-pumpkin custard) and ice cream. 146 T.T.K. Rd., Alwarpet. & 044/2432-2640. Reservations essential on weekends. Main courses Rs 98–Rs 298 ($2.25–$6.80). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:15–3pm and 7:15–11:30pm.

CHETTINAD It was in this fabulous outdoor restaurant—the best restaurant in the state, and one of the best in India—that Chettinad cuisine first came out of the Chettiar family kitchen and into the commercial arena. At the entrance, a pair of Brahmin women skillfully prepare savory South Indian vegetable starters. Other women, dressed in beautiful saris, string together jasmine blooms, which female guests are invited to wear in their hair. Nearby is a stage for nightly classical dance and music programs, where the best seats are beneath fairy lights and the

Raintree

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massive rain trees that give the place its name. After sipping a welcome drink—a widebrimmed copper goblet of vasantha neer, honey-sweetened tender coconut water, delicately flavored with mint leaves—you can’t go wrong with kozhi Chettinad, boneless chicken in an authentic Chettinad sauce, best had with appams (rice flour pancakes); or try the karaikudi kari (lamb chops). For the really adventurous, moolai melagu is tender lamb brain cooked in a peppery masala. Order rice flavored with tamarind as an accompaniment. End with the delicious coconut dessert, elaneer payasam. Weekend buffets are good value; savor six vegetarian and six nonvegetarian dishes and an assortment of eight desserts. Taj Connemara, Binny Rd. & 044/5500-0000. Reservations essential in winter season. Main courses Rs 140–Rs 525 ($3.25–$12); weekend buffet Rs 550 ($13). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:30pm–midnight.

CHENNAI AFTER DARK If there’s one place you need to grab a drink, it’s Chennai, and the best place to do so is the Leather Bar (& 044/5214-4000), at The Park hotel. Go not just for the beautiful leather floor and suede-covered walls or the gorgeous clientele, but for the super-hip tunes belting from the orbital DJ booth, transporting you far away from Chennai’s heat and hectic crowds. Afterwards, saunter over to The Park’s new nightclub, Pasha (& 044/5214-4000), a crowded, happening place to see and be seen—it warrants a visit if only for its completely over-the-top decor. Alternatively, head for Distil (& 044/5500-0000) at the Taj Connemara: The newest bar in town, it has an energetic buzz (you can hear foot-tapping music down the hallway) and fresh fruit cocktails; try the lychee vodka or the watermelon martini, created by Distil’s celebrity bartender/sommelier Nick Hawkins from the U.K. For a more subdued evening imbibing Spanish tapas and exotic cocktails, go to Zaras Tapas (74 Cathedral Rd.; & 044/28111462), another stage on Chennai’s happening beat.

SHOPPING Chennai has some good shopping options if you’re looking for a gift or souvenir to take home. For top-quality leather goods, head to Hidesign (Ispahani Center, 123/124 Nungambakkam High Rd.; & 044/2833-2111 or 044/5214-149). For housewares, handicrafts, and antique furniture, visit Kalpa Druma (71 Cathedral Rd.; & 044/2811-7652 or -1695). The famous Fabindia (Ilford House, 3 Woods

Temple Flashdance Occupying 40 hectares (99 acres), Kalakshetra (“the Temple of Art”) is a school for traditional music and dance that has produced some of the country’s most revered modern-day dancers. It was set up in 1936 by Rukmani Devi Arundale, a follower of Annie Besant (who co-founded the Theosophical Society). Devi studied ballet under Russia’s great ballerina Anna Pavlova; back in Madras, she studied dasi attam (also known as Bharatnatyam), a classic dance form traditionally restricted to temple dancers. She later set up the International Centre for the Arts, specifically concerned with reviving dasi attam. Visitors interested in observing day classes are welcome, and performances are staged in the school’s auditorium. Visit www.kalakshetra.net for current events and the dates of the annual art festival (Thiruvanmiyur, E. Coast Rd., 29km/18 miles south of Chennai; & 044/2491-1169 or -1836).

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Rd.; & 044/2851-0395 or 044/5202-7015) is where you can pick up cotton garments, kurtas (tunics), and ethnic furnishings and linens. Go to the Taj Coromandel’s Khazana Shop (37 M.G. Rd.; & 044/5500-2012 or -2827), for silks, saris, and various objets d’art in an upmarket, luxurious environment. Across the road from the Coromandel, Cottage Industries Emporium (672 Anna Salai; & 044/2433-0809 or -0898) is the fixed-price government emporium with a virtual monopoly on package tourist shoppers. Farther up the road is Poompuhar (818 Anna Salai [Mount Rd.], near Higginbothams), which has a better selection of Tamil Nadu art pieces. The Design Store on C. P. Ramaswamy Rd. (& 044/2499-7157) is a fine option for trendy, quality home decor with an ethnic touch. Cane & Bamboo (21 Marshalls Rd., Egmore; & 044/2852-8672) sells attractive curios, trays, bowls, spoons, lamps, and other handicrafts made of different species of wood sourced from all over India, and is managed by the knowledgeable Mrs. Thangam Philip, who can tell you about the different artifacts she stocks. Anokhi and Amethyst (see “Where to Dine,” above) are both excellent for lovely Western-style clothing and other souvenir handicrafts made with Indian fabrics and design elements. Even if you have absolutely no intention of buying a silk sari, you must visit Nalli Chinnasami Chetty (9 Nageswaran Rd., T. Nagar, near Panagal Park; & 044/2434-4115; www.nallisilk.com), a Chennai institution, where you can’t help but fall in love with the exquisite silks.

THE WORLD’S WEALTHIEST TEMPLE: A SIDE TRIP TO TIRUPATI IN ANDHRA PRADESH Situated on a peak of the Tirumalai Hills, overlooking Tirupati (just across the Tamil Nadu border into Andhra Pradesh), is the most active religious pilgrimage destination on earth, drawing more than 10 million devoted pilgrims every year—apparently, more than either Jerusalem or Rome. The richest in all India, and potentially the wealthiest single temple or church on earth, Dravidian-style Sri Venkateshvara Temple is said to be the heart of Hindu piety, but in many ways it appears to exist expressly for the collection of wealth connected to a legendary loan: Lord Venkateshwara, the living form of Vishnu, apparently borrowed an enormous amount of money from the God of Wealth in order to secure a dowry for his bride. Devotees donate generously in order to help their god settle his debt—the loan must be repaid in full, with interest, before the end of this epoch. Annual donations of jewelry, cash, and gold (along with sales of laddus or sweets and donated human hair) total around 1.5 billion rupees. Much of this goes to the temple kitchens that prepare meals, free accommodations for pilgrims, and various charitable hospitals and schools. The inner shrine is presided over by a diamond-ornamented 2m (6-ft.) black idol that stands at the end of a narrow passage. Pilgrims queue for hours, sometimes days, excitedly preparing for darshan—the extraordinarily brief moment when you’re all but pushed past the god by guards to ensure that the sanctum doesn’t become clogged with devotees, many of whom succumb to the moment by falling to the ground. Waiting amid the mass of anxious, highly charged pilgrims, you’ll get a good sense of the religious fervor of the Hindu faith. By the time you reach the moment of darshan, thousands of excited, expectant worshippers will be behind you, chanting Vishnu’s name. Once out of the inner shrine (one of the few in South India that non-Hindus can enter), you’ll make your way past a massive fish-tank-like enclosure, where temple clerks count the day’s takings—possibly the most cash you’re ever likely to see in one place.

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Tips

Jumping the Queue

Wealthier pilgrims can now make use of a computerized virtual queue system that streamlines the darshan experience. Pilgrims buy an arm band imprinted with their darshan time, shaving hours—even days—off their wait in line. Foreign visitors should bring their passports and appeal to the Assistant Executive Officer or A.E.O. (ask one of the temple police for directions) for a special darshan ticket, which costs anywhere from Rs 200 to Rs 3,500 ($4.55–$79) depending on the kind of speedy access you request (you will also be fingerprinted and photographed at this stage; ask your hotel if you need to book this a day in advance). Paid for at a special counter, it cuts waiting time to around 2 hours. Note that men must wear long pants or lungis. Prior to entering the queue, you’ll be asked to sign allegiance to the god. Avoid taking part if you suffer from claustrophobia, since you’ll still have to spend an hour or two within cagelike passages designed to prevent line-jumping. Temple activities commence at 3am with a wake-up call to the idol (suprabhatham) and continue until 12:45am the following morning.

Note: As you’re waiting in line, you’ll see many shaven heads—it’s common practice for believers to have their heads tonsured before going before the deity as a devotional sacrifice. As a result, a lucrative human hair business contributes significantly to the temple coffers—Far East and Italian wig manufacturers are major consumers of world-renowned Tirumalai hair, shorn by a fleet of barbers permanently in the service of the temple. ESSENTIALS The easiest ways to get here are by train from Chennai (or Hyderabad, Bangalore, or Mumbai); or by one of Indian Airlines’ (& 0877/228-3992) four weekly flights to and from Hyderabad (taxis into town should cost around Rs 200/$4.55). To overnight, make sure to prebook a room at the dependable ITC Fortune Kences (& 0877/225-5855; www.fortuneparkhotels.com; doubles Rs 1,500–Rs 1,800/$35–$41), which is located in the heart of the town and draws the more well-off devotees. Service is good and the hotel is comfortable (but not luxurious). It provides every amenity you’d require on a trip to Tirupati, including two restaurants and two bars.

2 Mamallapuram (Mahabalipurum) £ 51km (31 miles) S of Chennai

A visit to this once-thriving port city of the Pallavas, a dynasty that ruled much of South India between the 4th and 9th centuries A.D., is an excellent introduction to South Indian temple architecture. Established by Mamalla, “the Great Wrestler,” the tourist town of Mamallapuram attracts thousands to view the earliest examples of monumental architecture in southern India—incredible rock-cut shrines that celebrate Hinduism’s sacred pantheon and legends. Even today, the sounds of sculptors chipping away at blocks of stone—creating carvings for temples, hotel foyers, and tourists—echo through the streets, a reminder of the sort of devoted craftsmanship that must have possessed the original masons who created the World Heritage monuments of Mamallapuram. It’s possible to survey the best monuments in a morning,

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provided you get an early start (ideally, long before domestic tourists arrive en masse around mid-morning). This leaves you time to unwind on the pleasant beach and dine on succulent seafood at a village cafe (for a song). But if you don’t plan on hanging around, you can move on to Pondicherry after lunch and be sipping Gallic cocktails before sundown. If, on the other hand, you are returning to Chennai via the scenic East Coast Highway, you may want to schedule a stop at the cultural centers of Cholamandalam and Dakshina Chitra. At Cholamandalam Artists’ Village (Injambakkam, 13 km/8 miles south of Chennai; & 044/2449-0092; daily 9am–7pm), artists live, work, and exhibit their paintings, sculpture, graphic arts, and batik, and an open-air theater hosts regular dance performances. Dakshina Chitra is a heritage center showcasing different living styles from India’s four southern states: Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Andhra Pradesh. You can also observe weavers, potters, and traditional puppeteers at work, a good way to get in-depth knowledge of local arts and culture before they completely erode. Informative guided tours of the reconstructed heritage village are available for Rs 500 ($11; Muttukadu, East Coast Rd., 30km/18 miles south of Chennai; & 044/2491-8943 or 044/2446-2435; entry Rs 175/$4; Wed–Mon 10am–6pm).

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & AWAY Mamallapuram is 2 hours south of Chennai, on the East Coast Highway (though you may want to schedule a stop; see above). Buses from Chennai arrive and depart every half-hour from the suburban Koyambedu bus stand (state-owned buses at Mofussil and private buses at Omni stand). Prepaid tourist taxis from downtown Chennai cost Rs 500 to Rs 600 ($11–$14), or Rs 400 ($9.10) from the Koyambedu bus stand, but may not include the Rs 50 ($1.15) toll (see “Fast Facts: Chennai,” earlier in this chapter). Pondicherry is 21⁄2 hours away by road; a taxi here should cost around Rs 1,200 to Rs 1,300 ($28–$30). VISITOR INFORMATION The Government of Tamil Nadu Tourist Office (Kovalam Rd.; & 04114/242-232; Mon–Fri 10am–5:45pm) can supply you with limited information and a map of Tamil Nadu or booklets on the town. You can also rent a camping site with Western toilet facilities (Rs 200/$4.55 per night), 2km (11⁄4 miles) from Mamallapuram, or a simple cottage with a sea view (Rs 550/$13). GETTING AROUND All of the town’s attractions can be reached on foot, or you can rent a bicycle or catch an auto-rickshaw. GUIDES & TOURS Hi-Tours (123 East Raja St.; & 04114/244-3260 or 04114/ 243-360; Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; also open Sun June–Sept and Jan–Mar; www.hitours. com) runs a smooth operation and will in fact customize a tour of the entire state for you, organizing flights, train tickets, taxis, and hotels at decent rates. Guides are available at the entrances to Panch Rathas and Shore Temple; they charge around Rs 250 to Rs 350 ($5.70–$8).

EXPLORING THE SHRINES & TEMPLES Mamallapuram’s monolithic shrines and rock-cut cave temples lie scattered over a landscape heaped with boulders and rocky hillocks. Among these, the excellent Shore Temple, built to Lord Shiva, and the Five Rathas, a cluster of temples named for the five Pandava brothers of Mahabharata fame, are definitely worth seeking out. The celebrated Arjuna’s Penance is the largest relief-carving on earth—try to see these as

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early in the day as possible, before busloads of noisy holiday-makers descend. Also try to view Mahishamardini Mandapa (and give the nearby government-run Sculpture Museum a miss). If you feel the need to visit an active temple, head for Talasayana Perumal Temple, dedicated to Vishnu. It stands on the site of an original 9th-century Pallava temple but was rebuilt during the 14th century by the Vijayanagar King Parang Kusan, who feared that the sea would eventually erode Shore Temple. Halfhour puja (prayer) sessions are conducted daily at 9am, 11:30am, and 7:30pm. About 4km (21⁄2 miles) north of Mamallapuram, Tiger Cave (Covelong Rd.) is the site of an 8th-century shrine to the tiger-loving goddess Durga. It’s thought that the shallow cave, with its sculpted yalis (mythical beasts) framing the entrance, might have been used for open-air performances. Seventeen kilometers (11 miles) west of Mamallapuram, in the Kanchipuram district, Tirukkazhukundram, named for the holy kites (eagle-type birds) that make their home here, are popular with pilgrims who come to witness the Brahmin priests feeding the two birds of prey at midday. Note: Herpetologists and beleaguered parents may wish to make a pilgrimage of a very different kind: Set up by the famous herpetologist Romulus Whitaker, Crocodile Bank (15km/ 9 miles north of Mamallapuram; Rs 20/45¢; Wed–Mon 9am–5:30pm) is an extremely successful breeding and research center that currently sustains around 2,500 crocodiles, including 14 of the world’s 26 species. Arjuna’s Penance Opposite Talasayana Perumal Temple, the world’s largest bas-relief is commonly referred to as “The Descent of the Ganges,” depicting the sacred penance performed by one of the Pandava brothers. Standing on one leg, the meditative Arjuna contemplates Shiva—a painful reparation performed while lively representations of the gods, celestial nymphs, elephants, monkeys, and other creatures look on. A naturally occurring cleft down the rock is said to represent the Ganges, a symbol that comes to life during the rainy season when water flows into a tank below. Just a few meters away, to the left of Arjuna’s Penance, is Krishna Mandapam , another bas-relief, carved in the mid–7th century; this one depicts Krishna using his divine strength to lift a mountain to protect people from imminent floods. The duality of the god’s nature is expressed in carvings of him going about more mundane activities, including flirting with his milkmaids. Near Arjuna’s Penance, to the north, is the huge spherical boulder known as Krishna’s Butter Ball, balancing on a hillside. W. Raja St.

A lighthouse tops the hill where you’ll find a number of superb rock-cut shrines—seek out Mahishasuramardini Mandapa, remarkable for the two impressive friezes at each end of its long veranda. In the panel to the right, Durga, the terrifying mother of the universe, is seated astride her lion vahana wielding an assortment of weapons. She is in the process of destroying the buffalo-headed demon, Mahisha, who disturbs the delicate balance of life. At the opposite end of the veranda, Vishnu is depicted sleeping peacefully on his serpent bed, the sea of eternity; gathered around him, the gods appeal to him to continue the creation. Also atop the hill, Adivaraha Mandap features various sculpted figures and mythical scenes, including one large panel of Vishnu as a gigantic boar.

Mahishasuramardini Cave

W. Raja St.

The initial sight of these five (panch) monolithic stone shrines, set in a sandy fenced-off clearing, is dramatic, even though the structures themselves—named for the five brother-heroes of the Mahabharata and resembling

Panch Pandava Rathas

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Lost City: The Temple Discovered Post-Tsunami When the December 2004 tsunami hit Mamallapuram, it thankfully caused no damage. In fact, when the powerful wall of water began to recede, it uncovered ancient rock sculptures of lions, elephants, and peacocks—all fairly common motifs used to decorate walls and temples during the Pallava period in the 7th and 8th centuries. Could this be the remains of a once thriving city, submerged below the sea when the shoreline changed? Perhaps. Archaeologists working off the coast after the tsunami have already uncovered the remains of a massive collapsed temple, built entirely of granite blocks, renewing speculation that Mamallapuram was a part of the legendary Seven Pagodas, written of in the diaries of European travelers, and that six temples remain submerged in the ocean.

temple chariots (rathas)—are incomplete. The ancient sculpting techniques are astonishing: Carved out of single pieces of rock from the top down, these shrines reveal perfect, precise planning. The dome-shaped shikhara (tower finial) found on some of the temples became the template for later South Indian temples, successful experiments that were further refined and enlarged. E. Raja St., 1km (a half-mile) south of Arjuna’s Penance. Tickets available from ASI booth at the entrance. Single ticket for both Five Rathas and Shore Temple costs Rs 250 ($5.70). Daily 6:30am–5:30pm. Approved guides can be hired at the entrance.

Perched at the edge of a sandy beach on the Bay of Bengal, where it has been subjected to centuries of battering by salt water and oceanic winds, this early-8th-century stone temple is considered one of the oldest temples in South India, and a forerunner of the Dravidian style. Its two carved towers inspired a style that spread throughout the region and to more distant Asian shores. Vishnu is found reclining inside one shrine, while two others are dedicated to Shiva. A low boundary wall topped by rock-cut Nandi bulls surrounds the temple, and a veritable pride of lions rear their heads from the base of the pillars.

Shore Temple

Northeast of the Panch Pandava Rathas, at the beach. Tickets available from ASI booth at the entrance. A single ticket for entrance to both the Five Rathas and the Shore Temple costs Rs 250 ($5.70). Daily 6:30am–5:30pm. Approved guides can be hired at the entrance.

WHERE TO STAY If you want to be closer to Mamallapuram’s temples, you have two good seafront options. Temple Bay is a wonderfully situated, chalet-style resort with good amenities (pool, travel desk, salon) and a view of the Shore Temple from the restaurant (avoid the canteen-style coffee shop, however). Its best accommodations are the cottages overlooking the ocean with private patios; these have air-conditioning, TV, and minibars (& 04114/242-251, -2252, -2253, or -2254; [emailprotected]; www.grttemplebay.com; doubles Rs 5,000/$114). Located just 3km (2 miles) from Mamallapuram (near Tiger Caves), Ideal Beach Resort is a little more run-down but fairly well managed, with a range of standard amenities. The best thing about it is its location, right on the beach. Ask for an upstairs unit with an ocean view (& 04114/ 242-240; www.idealresort.com; doubles Rs 1,700–Rs 5,000/$39–$114). Taj Fisherman’s Cove Built on the site of a 17th-century Dutch fort, this bright, breezy, beachfront resort is set on 8.8 manicured hectares (25 acres) with a

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labyrinth of tidy, shrub-lined pathways. It’s a great refuge, within easy striking distance of both Chennai and Mamallapuram. Most guest rooms are in the main hotel block (those with sea views have expansive floor-to-ceiling windows). The shell-shaped cottages closer to the beach are delightful, with bamboo-enclosed alfresco showers; private hammocks; bright interiors in shades of orange, yellow, and green; and breezy patios with beautiful Chettinad swings. Those cottages facing the sea directly (nos. C4–C14) are the best spots from which to admire the surf. Larger luxury sea-facing cottages are also available; each one has a totally private garden with palm trees supporting your own hammock and cane-strung rockers on a covered porch. Interiors are a little more formal and old-fashioned, but also more spacious, with high-pitched ceilings and an indoor bathroom that has a separate tub and shower. When you’re not out exploring ancient temples, you can try out the huge number of activities on offer, laze around a pool with a sunken swim-up bar, stroll along the beach to the nearby village of Kovalam (also known as Covelong; not to be mistaken for its more famous namesake in Kerala), peruse the menu at the thatched beachside Bay View Point, or dine on Mediterranean fare at the new Upper Deck (a lovely dinner location). At press time, plans were underway to open the Taj’s new signature Jiva spa. Covelong Beach, Kanchipuram District, Chennai 603 112. & 04114/27-2304 through -06. Fax 04114/27-2303. www.tajhotels.com. [emailprotected]. 50 units; 38 cottages. $160 standard double, $170 standard sea-view double, $195 cottage garden-view double; $220 sea-view cottage; $245 sea-view villa with private garden. $20 extra bed. Supplements: $60–$120 room (Dec 23–Jan 5); $70–$115 Christmas/New Year’s. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; kids’ pool; tennis; health club; beach volleyball; badminton; bicycles; children’s activity center; indoor games; concierge; travel desk; catamaran trips; fishing excursions; ecology tours; car hire; currency exchange; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; Ayurvedic massage center; babysitting; doctor-on-call; library. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer.

WHERE TO DINE Seafood, not surprisingly, is popular and abundant; it’s also amazingly affordable, with the most expensive item being lobster at Rs 1,350 ($31) per kilogram (2.2 lbs.). Note: None of the following take credit cards. Sea Shore (Fisherman Colony, Mamallapuram Beach) is the cleanest of the shack-style restaurants situated directly on the beach, and it opens first thing in the morning. It has a great view of the Shore Temple; sit in the upstairs section, which has even better views. Tables are covered with simple Indian throws and chairs are plastic, but the seafood is fit for a king. Have your choice of fresh lobster, tiger prawns, calamari, tuna, or shark—all washed down with an ice-cold Kingfisher beer or delicious lassi. Another recommended shack-style beach restaurant with a view of the Shore Temple, Luna Magica (& 04114/24-2521) is where Chef Rajindran has been pulling in customers since 1992. Also check out Gazebo on East Raja Street (& 04114/24-2525), a relaxed, fan-cooled, all-day restaurant with Indian-print throws over the tables and brown rattan chairs; Bob Marley and classical Indian tunes set the mood. Freshly caught lobster is available grilled, boiled, braised (country-style), or Thermidor-style. If you tire of affordable seafood, the usual Indian suspects are on offer: palak paneer, vegetable jalfrezi, and Madras-style chicken curry.

3 Pondicherry £ 189km (117 miles) S of Chennai

Pondicherry’s ancient history dates back to the Vedic era; the Romans traded here 2 millennia ago, and the Portuguese arrived in 1521. Dutch and Danish traders followed, but it was the French—who purchased the town in the late 17th century, only

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relinquishing their hold in 1954—who left the most enduring legacy. Now a Union Territory, with its own local government, this seaside colony retains its French élan, tempered by South Indian warmth, making it one of India’s most relaxing destinations. Besides hanging out in your antiques-filled colonial hotel or sauntering around the oceanfront French Quarter (where you’ll see old men in thick-rimmed spectacles under the apparent illusion that they’re in a Parisian arrondissement), you can visit Auroville, an interesting experiment in alternative living, also optimistically known as the City of Dawn; or you can join the New Age travelers here to visit the ashram of Sri Aurobindo. Ashramic allure and Aurovillian aura aside, Pondy (as it is affectionately called) is the type of charming seaside town where you arrive for a quick overnighter and end up staying; like Goa, it has a number of expats to prove it. And, yes, it’s far friendlier than Bordeaux.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & AWAY Pondicherry is best reached by road from Chennai, a 4-hour drive, mostly along a two-lane highway. To get here by train, you must first travel to Villuparam (1 hr. away) on the Chennai–Rameswaram line, and then switch to one of the four daily passenger trains to Pondicherry. Inquire at the railway station (South Blvd.; & 0413/233-6684) about outbound trains. VISITOR INFORMATION Pondicherry’s Tourism Information Centre (40 Goubert Ave.; & 0413/233-9497 or -4575; fax 0413/235-8389; daily 9am–5pm; http://tourism.pon.nic.in) can help you with maps, brochures, and tour bookings. Available in bookstores, The Guide—Pondicherry costs Rs 30 (70¢) and carries extensive local listings. GETTING AROUND By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Auto-rickshaws prowl the streets in some areas, actively soliciting fares. Overcharging is rife, but if you’ve got several kilometers to cover, it may be worthwhile to hire one for a couple of extra rupees to avoid walking in the sun. By Bicycle By Indian standards, the streets and sidewalks of Pondicherry are immaculate and ideal for exploration by bike. You can rent a bike (Rs 5/10¢ per hour; Rs 20–Rs 40/45¢–90¢ per day) from Le Café on Beach Road, or from the Pondicherry Tourism Information Centre (see above). Ask about hiring the services of a guide who can cycle along with you. By Boat Offshore cruises are available through the Tourism Information Counter (40 Goubert Ave.; & 0413/233-8643), where you can charter a boat for Rs 1,200 ($27.50) an hour. GUIDED TOURS Guided tours and sightseeing trips can be arranged through Pondicherry Tourism (see above). The Indian National Trust for Art & Cultural Heritage (INTACH, 14 Labourdonnais S.; & 0413/222-5991 or -7324; www. intach.org; [emailprotected]) conducts 90-minute guided heritage walks for Rs 700 ($16) for fewer than five people; Rs 1,000 ($23) for 5 to 10 people.

WHAT TO SEE & DO Pondicherry’s tree-lined French Quarter is one of India’s most prepossessing neighborhoods, and a real contrast to the area across the “Grand Canal” aqueduct that the French used to refer to as “black town”—a more typically Tamil neighborhood, with tiny shops lining crowded streets. If you want to unwind, stick to the French Quarter (or “white town”), with its wide boulevards, uncluttered roads, bilingual signs, stately

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government buildings, and gorgeous residential villas. Besides taking a few strolls, the only other attractions—and really, this is one place you will feel entirely guilt-free simply lazing on your hotel terrace for the duration of your stay—are Aurobindo Ashram, and a trip to Auroville, the City of Dawn. While wandering the Quarter, you may want to take a look at the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Eglise de Sacre Coeur de Jésus), an 18th-century neo-Gothic Catholic church on South Boulevard. The facade of the Church of Immaculate Conception (Mission St.) has an air of pageantry enhanced by colorful banners (it’s also interesting to note that many Christian devotees remove their shoes before entering). Dedicated to Ganesha, the elephant-headed god, Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple is off a side street so popular that it’s cordoned off during the early-evening hours; a temple elephant marks the entrance. For a quick glimpse of local historic memorabilia and collectibles, visit the Pondicherry Museum (49 Rue St. Louis; & 0413/233-6203; Tues–Sun 9:45am–5:15pm), housed in a 17th-century colonial mansion once occupied by the French administrator. The museum features a collection of carriages and carts, stone sculptures, and a formidable bronze gallery. Along the same road, which runs along the northern end of a square known as Government Place, is Raj Nivas, the late18th-century mansion occupied by Pondicherry’s lieutenant governor. At twilight, head for Goubert Salai (Beach Rd.). The most interesting sights along the promenade (aside from the locals enjoying themselves) include the colonial Hôtel de Ville (now the Municipal Offices building) and the 4m (12-ft.) statue of Gandhi standing at the pier. Cultural events, art exhibitions, and film screenings are conducted regularly by Pondicherry’s Alliance Française (& 0413/233-8146; fax 0413/ 233-4351; [emailprotected]; Mon–Fri 8:30am–12:30pm and 2:30–6pm; temporary 3-month membership Rs 150/$3.40); contact this active organization for information regarding specific events.

SCIENCE FICTION IN THE CITY OF DAWN The Auroville project began in 1964, conceived by Sri Aurobindo’s French-born disciple, Mirra Alfassa—“The Mother” (see “Looking for a Higher Level of Consciousness?” above). She spoke of a place on earth that could not be claimed or owned by any nation, one where all humanity could live freely and in peace—a city that would ultimately become a living embodiment of human unity. Largely designed by French architect Roger Anger, Auroville drew a motley global group, and was inaugurated in 1968 when soils from around the world were symbolically placed in an urn along with the Auroville Charter. At its spiritual and physical heart is the futuristic spherical structure known as Matrimandir (Mon–Sat 10am–noon and 2–4pm; Sun 10am–noon), a place dedicated to the universal mother—a symbolic space devoted to the “divine creatrix.” An ongoing project, the structure is a flattened dome spanning 36m (115 ft.) in diameter, surrounded by gardens, an amphitheater covered with red Agra stone, and meditation rooms. As development continues, glistening gold discs are fixed to the outer surface of the dome, enhancing the structure’s sci-fi image. The white marble chamber of the dome houses the “Inner Room,” which contains a crystal that reflects the sun’s rays and produces a concentrated light that is used for enhanced meditation. Visitors who obtain passes can have a brief peek at this chamber between 4 and 5pm each day, and it’s possible to stay for meditation until 6pm. Radiating from the Mandir and its gardens, the city is architecturally conceived along the lines of a galaxy, evolving organically within certain parameters. The original design planned accommodations for

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Looking for a Higher Level of Consciousness? Located in the heart of Pondicherry, Aurobindo Ashram draws a global mix of ardent devotees and ordinary people searching for peace or looking to improve their meditation skills. Aurobindo Ghose, a politically active Britisheducated Bengali who sought asylum from the British in this small French enclave, took to meditation and yoga while developing theories of enlightenment that integrated his personal spirituality with the tenets of modern science. He also met Mirra Alfassa here, an artist on a similar spiritual quest; she became his soul mate, earning her the appellation “The Mother.” Founded as a place to foster evolution to a higher level of spiritual consciousness, the ashram opened in 1926. With a significant following and numerous published titles to his credit, Aurobindo died in 1950. Today, those who share his vision of a better world place flowers and other gestures of remembrance upon the memorial chambers (samadhis) of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother, which lie one above the other in the center of the peaceful main courtyard beneath a frangipani tree. For more information, contact the ashram (Rue de la Marine; & 0413/223-3649; daily 8am–noon and 2–6pm; free admission; no children under 3).

50,000 residents but there currently are about 1,500, all committed to being “willing servitors of the Divine Consciousness.” Auroville is far more than a place for devotional meditation; it’s an experiment in self-sufficient living that takes both nature and culture into account. Its architectural innovation and utopian idealism make this a place of interest for anyone with a penchant for the unusual, the ethereal, or the novel. Auroville is 8km (5 miles) north of Pondicherry. Auto-rickshaws charge around Rs 200 ($4.55) for the round-trip. Pondy’s tourist office also organizes tours. Stop at the Tourist Information Centre first, where you can pick up brochures, shop, snack, and watch a video presentation. & 0413/262-2239. Fax 0413/262-2239. www.auroville.org. Daily 9am–1pm and 2–5:30pm.

WHERE TO STAY If you’re looking for very affordable lodging in the heart of the French Quarter, Satsanga restaurant (see “Where to Dine,” below) has four clean, simple, air-conditioned rooms costing Rs 750 ($17). Hotel de l’Orient Tamil and Cajun spices scent the air of this awardValue winning heritage hotel (Pondicherry’s best)—a 1760s manor house located in the heart of the French Quarter. The hotel has been beautifully restored, and captures the period grandeur of a colonial nobleman’s mansion. Each of the 10 original guest rooms—set around an inner courtyard shaded by citrus and neem trees—is themed and named for a former French colony (a renovation of the adjacent bungalow has produced a new wing with four new rooms, done in the same colonial style, but not as charming as the original manor house rooms). Comfortable and airy, with shuttered windows, high ceilings (some original wood ceiling beams), private patios, and tall French doors, the rooms are elegantly attired in pinks, yellows, and cool emerald. Most of the furniture pieces are French colonial antiques. Bathrooms are very chic, though small (only some have tubs, so specify if you want one). Casimbazaar (no. 6) is the best of the standard rooms, but it’s worthwhile to pay the extra $20 for an executive suite; these have original four-poster beds and private drawing rooms with Pondicheriennes (local planter’s chairs). Avoid staying in Masulipatam on the ground

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floor—it can get noisy. Accommodations overlook the courtyard restaurant, Carte Blanche, where local “Creole” cuisine, a blend of South Indian and French, is served. A second, air-conditioned dining room is inside, where you can avoid mosquitoes. You can enjoy serene views of Pondicherry from the rooftop courtyard. 17 Rue Romain Rolland, Pondicherry 605 001. & 0413/234-3067. Fax 0413/222-7829. www.neemranahotels.com. [emailprotected]. Delhi reservations: Neemrana Hotels Private Ltd., A–58 Nizamuddin E., New Delhi 110 013. & 011/2435-6145 or -8962. Fax 011/2435-1112. [emailprotected]. 14 units. Rs 2,000 ($46) nonA/C double; Rs 2,500 ($57) standard suite, Rs 3,500 ($80) executive suite, Rs 4,300 ($98) luxury suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; gift shop, laundry. In room: A/C, TV (executive suites only), tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer on request.

You may have trouble deciding which of the individually styled guest rooms—designed by the talented Vasanthi Manet—in this beautifully restored Indo-French colonial mansion is your favorite, though “Mahe de Labourdonnais” is arguably the finest of the double rooms. All the high-ceilinged guest rooms are trés chic, blending Indian and colonial accents with wood-frame beds covered with crisp white sheets and satin bedcovers. Bathrooms (with drench showers) are bright and cheerful. The small hotel has a number of handsome public sitting areas with planter’s chairs and smart cane sofas covered with bright pink cushions; fans whir overhead. From a facilities point of view, the hotel offers little besides great dining, but staff try hard, and rates are very reasonable.

Hotel de Pondichery

38 Dumas St., Pondicherry 605 001. & 0413/222-7409. Fax 0413/233-0057. [emailprotected]. www.hoteldepondichery.com. 10 units. Rs 1,600–Rs 2,450 ($37–$56) double. Rs 300 ($6.85) extra bed. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 24-hr. room service; tours; travel assistance; currency exchange; babysitting; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C.

Le Dupleix Contemporary chic meets heritage in this latest addition to Pondicherry’s boutique hotels. Owner Deepak Kapur (creator of the posh leather brand Hidesign) restored and modernized this 18th-century French colonial villa (originally built for the mayor of Pondicherry), blending Old World and au courant with ease. Every room in this urbane hotel is unique, each with fashionable bathroom, mezzanine section for the kids (or for TV viewing without disturbing your companion), four-poster bed, and louvered wooden shutters. The public spaces have lovely touches—on the terrace, old-fashioned gas lamps hang from trees, a large traditional swing hangs in the hallway, and everywhere you’ll find plenty of ornate woodwork (salvaged by Kapur when the house belonging to French governor of yore Marquis Joseph Francois Dupleix was demolished). A granite waterfall by French sculptor Francois Weil is reflected in the glass staircase landings, and walls are covered in a special Chettinad plaster—a mixture of egg white, powdered sea shells, and yogurt. Open-air dining is at the Governor Lounge, where Pondicherry-French and Indian fusion cuisine are served and where presentation is as important as flavor. 5 Rue De La Caserne, Pondicherry 605 00. & 0413/2226-999. Fax 0413/233-5278. ledupleix@sarovarparkplaza. com. www.sarovarparkplaza.com. 9 units. Rs 2,500 ($57) superior double, Rs 3,500 ($80) deluxe double, Rs 4,500 ($102) luxury double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; 24-hr. room service; safe deposit locker; travel desk; airport transfers. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.

Villa Helena Owned by Roselyne Guitry, a perfumer from Burgundy Value who has lived in Bangkok, Delhi, and now Pondicherry, this guesthouse started out as a place in which Roselyne could keep her gorgeous collection of antiques and traditional furniture. A natural decorator, she claims the place was “thrown together,” and

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operates her delightful villa as a nonprofit hobby and an opportunity to meet people from around the world. A communal porch with gracious arches and pillars, where you can relax in planters’ chairs, is a plus, while the guest rooms (which have lovely high ceilings that extend into the shower-only bathrooms) feature an eclectic blend of classical and colonial knickknacks picked up by Roselyne from all over Asia. Upstairs is an enormous suite, which is more like an apartment: In addition to a large bedroom with its own terrace, it has two living rooms (one of which features a desk that’s large enough to double as a dining table) and a sofa that doubles as a bed. The beds here are the best in town—proper thick-pile mattresses. Roselyne has recently opened another guesthouse called Helena 2 (13 Lal Bahadur Shastri St.), similarly stylish but with a more inherently Indian flavor. 14 Suffren St., Pondicherry 605 001. & 0413/222-6789, -7075, or 98430-69443. Fax 0413/222-7087. villahelena@ satyam.net.in. 4 units each. Rs 1,500 ($35) standard double; Rs 2,500 ($57) suite. Coffee and soft drinks on demand. No credit cards. Amenities: Dining facility; sightseeing and travel assistance; 24-hr. room service; laundry. In room: A/C, TV (in suites).

WHERE TO DINE When it comes to the best fusion food in town, it’s a bit of a toss-up between The Bistro/Indochine, reviewed below, and the classy Hotel de l’Orient’s Carte Blanche (see above). If you opt for the latter’s leafy courtyard (residents get first option), make sure you order a dish involving fish—caught locally, it’s so fresh it almost moves. Satsanga (30 Labourdonnais St.; & 0413/222-5867; noon–2:30pm and 6–11pm) is a relaxing all-day eatery operated by an expat from the south of France who has been in Pondy for 33 years and who now resides in Auroville. If you’re a carnivore, opt for the green-pepper filet (filet au poivre vert) or the fish Provençale— not always on the menu, but worth asking for anyway. If you’re in Auroville in the afternoon, drop by the Auroville Boulangerie or grab a simple but tasty meal at their Solar Kitchen (you’ll need an Auroville day pass, currently Rs 60/$1.35, to eat there). The Bistro/Indochine FRENCH/ECLECTIC CAFE These two restaurants at the atmospheric Hotel de Pondicherry share the same menu and venue; The Bistro transforms into the more exotic-sounding Indochine in the evenings. Set beneath a thatched roof, the venue has roll-down blinds, cane furniture, and green plastic seats for the spillover; fans work to kept customers cool, and potted plants add to the courtyard-cafe atmosphere. The menu is eclectic, with pizzas, hamburgers, savory pancakes, and great salads on offer. Pondicherry beef paupiettes and prawns a la Normandy are house faves. Also at Hotel de Pondicherry, the upstairs restaurant, Le Club , prides itself on serving authentic traditional French cuisine, using only the finest French herbs, cream, and butter. The menu offers chateaubriand a la béarnaise, chicken with mustard sauce, crab with saffron sauce, shallow fried prawns with basil and cream, and squid prepared with mustard and egg yolk.

Good Food to Go If you miss some of the comforts of home, you’ll delight in Church Gate (198 Mission St.; & 0413/34-9146; Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 4–9pm, Sun 9am–1pm). A grocery store billing itself “The Complete Shop,” this is where you’ll find imported food, pastries, fresh local fruit, and toiletries. It’s an ideal place to stock up for a day trip or picnic or to get something wholesome for your minibar.

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Hotel de Pondicherry, 38 Rue Dumas St. & 0413/222-7409. Breakfast Rs 115–Rs 195 ($2.60–$4.40); continental brunch Rs 200 ($4.55); main courses Rs 115–Rs 225 ($2.60–$5.10). Le Club main courses Rs 175–Rs 325 ($4–$7.35). AE, DC, MC, V. All day; Le Club only daily 7–11pm.

Rendezvous Café FRENCH/ITALIAN/INDIAN/CHINESE Vincent, the owner of this popular cafe, started out as a sailor cooking meals for ship’s crews. One day he visited this century-old Indo-French restaurant and became violently ill. Instead of complaining, he decided to buy the restaurant and tap into its potential. With a shabby colonial-chic atmosphere, the restaurant derives much of its charm from the relaxed setting, with a large thatched-roof area upstairs. It stocks cigars, imported beers, and Scotch, especially for the European expats and diplomats who hang out here. Seafood is a specialty; have the lobster either in a rich garlic-butter sauce, or mildly spiced and grilled in the tandoor. Alternatively, try traditional Pondicherry prawn curry served with steamed white rice. The pork is bred by Jesuit priests in Kodaikanal; try the pork vindaloo or the more conventional roast pork, arguably the best in town. 30 Rue Suffren. & 0413/233-9132. Main courses Rs 120–Rs 400 ($2.75–$9.10). AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Mon 9:30am–3:30pm and 6:30–11:30pm.

SHOPPING Auromirayan (95 Canteen St.; & 0413/233-9351; Mon–Sat 9:30am–1pm and 4:30–8:30pm; cash only) is the factory shop for leather goods (shoes, handbags, belts) produced in Auroville. The tiny Boutique Auroshree (18 Jawaharlal Nehru St.; & 0413/222-2117) sells clothes and handicrafts from all over India; it has a small selection of silver jewelry, paintings, and handcrafted bronze, brass, and sandalwood items. La Boutique d’Auroville (J. N. St.; & 0413/262-2150) sells everything from Auroville, from lovely pottery and handmade paper to original garments. Curio Centre (40 Roman Rolland St.; & 0413/222-5676) has a selection of objets d’art as well as indigenous and colonial antique furniture. Next door is Art Colony (32 Romain Rolland St.; & 0413/233-2395), with mostly antiques (as well as some reproduction furniture), wood carvings, and handicrafts. Auroville’s outlet, Kalki (132 Mission St.; & 0413/233-9166), is where you browse for hand-painted silk clothing, perfumed candles, incense, oils, leatherware, ceramics, jewelry, and handmade paper items to the accompaniment of artsy, esoteric music. Across the road is Casablanca (165 Mission St.; & 0413/222-6495 or 0413/233-6495), one of South India’s funkiest department stores, with top international brands spread over three floors; there’s even a fast-food cafe with Internet browsing. Splendour (16 Goubert Ave.; & 0413/233-6398) sells goods exclusively produced by the Aurobindo Society. Besides toys, belts, bags, and incense, you can pick up a wide range of books on the Society and Sri Aurobindo. Focus bookstore (& 0413/234-5513; Mission St.; closed Sun), next to the Church of Immaculate Conception, has hundreds of books on Indian culture and religion.

4 Tiruchirappalli & Thanjavur (Tanjore) Tiruchirappalli is 325km (200 miles) SW of Chennai; Thanjavur is 55km (34 miles) E of Tiruchirappalli

Tiruchirappalli, or “the City of the Three-Headed Demon,” sprawls at the foot of colossal Rock Fort, where the Vijayanagar empire built its once-impregnable citadel when they wrested power from the Cholas in the 10th century. The Vijayanagars and their successors, the Nayaks of Madurai, started work on one of South India’s largest

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and most impressive temple towns, Srirangam, on an island created by the Cauvery and one of its tributaries, just beyond Tiruchirappalli. During the bitter Carnatic wars, French and British forces battled for control of the city, both keen to establish control of the looming hilltop fortress. Today a number of neo-Gothic Christian monuments remain as evidence of the British influence during the 18th and 19th centuries, when a Cantonment was established here and when much of the present-day city was built. Almost directly east of Tiruchirappalli (or Trichy, as it’s thankfully known), Thanjavur (also known as Tanjore) was the capital of the Chola empire—which included present-day Kerala, Sri Lanka, and parts of Indonesia. Its 11th-century Brihadeshvara Temple is a World Heritage monument and, together with Mamallapuram and Madurai, an important stop on Tamil Nadu’s temple route.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & AWAY You can fly to Trichy from Chennai (Tues, Thurs, Sat, and Sun) or from Trivandrum in Kerala (Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sun). The airport is 8km (5 miles) from the city. Chennai is 7 hours away by road; slightly quicker by train—several daily trains (3 hr.) connect Trichy with Madurai. To get to Thanjavur from Trichy, either hire a car or travel by train for the 1-hour journey. From Pondicherry, the fastest way to get to Trichy is by hired car; alternatively, check the current train schedule. ORIENTATION Trichy’s hotels are situated in the British-built Cantonment, separated from the busy industrial and bazaar neighborhood where Rock Fort is situated. Srirangam is a few kilometers north of Rock Fort. VISITOR INFORMATION Mr. Janarthanam at Trichy’s Government of Tamil Nadu Tourism Department (1 Williams Rd., Cantonment; & 0431/246-0136; Mon–Fri 10am–5:45pm) can supply you with information, maps, and brochures. Thanjavur’s tourist office (Hotel Tamil Nadu Complex Jawan Bhavan; & 04362/ 230-984; Mon–Fri 10am–5:45pm) provides good information on local sights and can help you with transport. GETTING AROUND It may be worthwhile to hire a car and driver through your hotel or the tourist information center. You can even manage to see all the major attractions in a single, exhausting day.

WHAT TO SEE & DO T I R U C H I R A P PA L L I

Spend anywhere from a half- to a full day here, devoting the majority of your time to the atmospheric temple town of Srirangam. In the evening, climb the steps to the summit of Rock Fort in time to witness the sun setting over the city (entrance at China Bazaar; Rs 1/2¢, Rs 10/25¢ camera, Rs 50/$1.15 video camera; daily 6am–8pm). This is also the time you’re likely to encounter the greatest number of devotees coming to worship at the Shiva temple (off-limits to non-Hindus) and paying tribute to the elephant-headed god, Ganesh, at his summit shrine. Little of the old fortification has survived (though some inscriptions date back to the 3rd c. B.C.), but you may be interested to know that at 3,800 million years old, the rock itself is said to be one of the oldest on Earth, predating the Himalayan range by around a million years. Alongside Rock Fort is the huge Teppakulam Tank, and across from this, Our Lady of Lourdes Church, built in 1840.

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Tips

A Recommended Guide

In the tourist information center at the front entrance of Brihadeshvara Temple, you should be able to locate K. T. Raja, who has been working as a guide for more than a quarter of a century. He’ll not only show you local temples, he’ll arrange trips to outlying temple towns. Guide fees are about Rs 500 ($11.40) per day.

Srirangam Just 7km (4 miles) beyond Trichy, the vibrant, ancient holy town of Srirangam—one of India’s biggest temple complexes—is the site of sprawling Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, whose seven concentric boundary walls (prakarams) enclose 240 hectares (600 acres) devoted to the Hindu faith. Within the temple walls, a web of lanes lined with houses, shops, and businesses is also enclosed, making for fascinating exploration of what feels like a heaving medieval village. Dedicated to Vishnu (worshipped here as Ranganatha), the town sees almost nonstop feverish and colorful activity, with communal gatherings and festivals held throughout the year. The original 10th-century temple was destroyed by a Delhi sultan, but reconstruction began in the late 14th century. Ongoing expansion by Trichy’s successive rulers culminated in the late 20th century, with the elaborately carved and brightly painted Rajagopuram, not only the largest of the 21 goparums (tower gateways) that surround the immense complex, but said to be the largest in Asia, soaring to a height of 72m (230 ft.). The most important shrines are within the inner four boundary walls, entered via a high gateway where smaller shrines mark the point beyond which lowercaste Hindus could not venture. Within this enclosure, you’ll find a temple to the goddess Ranganayaki, as well as the thousand-pillared hall, which dates back to the Chola period. Arguably the most impressive of all is nearby Seshagirirayar Mandapa, where the pillars are decorated with stone carvings of rearing horses mounted by warriors. For a memorable view of the entire complex, make sure to purchase a ticket (Rs 10/25¢) to climb to the rooftop. 7km (4 miles) north of Trichy on an island on the River Cauvery. Free admission. Rs 50 ($1.15) still camera, Rs 100 ($2.30) video camera. No photography allowed inside the sanctum.

T H A N J AV U R Brihadeshvara Temple

This granite temple, a World Heritage Site built by the Chola kings a thousand years ago, is today very much alive with devotees. Standing in a vast courtyard, surrounded by a number of subsidiary shrines, the temple was built—no doubt at great expense—by the Chola Rajaraja I for the worship of Shiva. Pyramidal in shape, the monumental tower or vimana over the inner sanctum rises almost 70m (224 ft.) and is visible for miles around. It’s capped by an octagonal cupola carved from a single block of granite that was hauled into place along a ramp that is said to have been 6km (4 miles) long. Within the sanctum is a 4m (13-ft.) lingam; facing the sanctum, a colossal 25-ton Nandi monolith, carved from solid granite, dominates the courtyard. Numerous extant inscriptions on the molded plinth describe the enormous wealth of the temple (much of it booty from Rajaraja’s successful campaigns), as well as the copious acts of ritual and celebration that took place here. In its heyday, an enormous staff was maintained to attend to the temple’s varied activities; these included everything from administration to procuring dancing girls.

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West of Thanjavur bus stand. Visitors can make prior arrangements for entry to the sanctum and the upper floors of the temple by contacting the local tourist office. Daily 6am–noon and 3.30–8:30pm.

Built as the home of the Nayak rulers, the 16th-century Royal Palace has fallen into a state of minor ruin but is home to the impressive Rajaraja Museum and Art Gallery (daily 10am–1pm and 2–5pm; admission Rs 15/35¢), which houses an eclectic collection of stone and bronze idols, mostly from the Chola period. Within the palace, you should also climb the narrow and tricky steps of the arsenal tower for fantastic views of the complex and the entire city, including Brihadeshvara Temple. Inside 17th-century Durbar Hall, built by the Marathas, who ruled after the Nayaks, are 11th-century statues of Vishnu and Parvathi, exhibited in Washington, D.C., in 1865. Near the museum is Saraswati Mahal Library, which houses a collection of rare books—including Sanskrit works and 18,623 palm-leaf manuscripts—assembled by the Maratha ruler Serfoji II, who ruled until 1832 and was known as a great patron of the arts. The attached Museum has highlights from the collection, including some detailed drawings of Chinese torture and punishment techniques. Give both the Sadar Mahal Palace and its Royal Museum a miss. Thanjavur Palace Complex & Art Gallery

E. Main Rd. For information about Thanjavur Art Gallery, contact the Art Gallery Society (& 04362/239-823). Free admission. Rs 30 (70¢) camera. Daily 9am–1pm and 3–6pm.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE You may end up spending the night in both Trichy and Thanjavur—a pity, because neither has exciting accommodations. But a stay may be hard to avoid—onward travel in either direction takes 2 hours, so you’d need to move at quite a pace, and Tamil Nadu’s heat will inevitably slow you down. T I R U C H I R A PA L L I Hotel Sangam Tiruchirappalli

Popular with tour groups, this friendly 30-yearold hotel benefits considerably from its location a short distance out of the city center, so it offers less noise and polluted congestion and a greater sense of space, enhanced by decent lawns. Marble and plaid are primary motifs, and linoleum surfaces are popular here. The large guest rooms are adequately furnished and immaculately clean. Ask for a room overlooking the swimming pool (these have even numbers). The restaurant, Chembian, where Chef Madi prepares some interesting dishes, is also agreeable—try the kozhi milaau, fragrant chicken flavored with ginger and tamarind. Collector’s Office Rd., Tiruchirappalli 620 001. & 0431/241-4700 or -4480. Fax 0431/241-5779. www.hotelsangam. com. 54 units. Rs 2,300 ($53) double; Rs 4,260 ($98) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; health club; travel counter; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C,TV, minibar (in some rooms), hair dryer on request.

Jenneys Residency The lobby of this well-equipped five-floor business hotel is decked out in white marble, with large reflective pillars in a sort of fantasy of temple architecture. The centrally air-conditioned guest units are comfortable enough, with standard Western comforts that include fair-size bathrooms and tubs. They offer great value but tend to pick up noise from the busy main road outside. Some of the rooms offer excellent views of Rock Fort. The theme bar Wild West is very popular with locals—especially on weekends. 3/14 McDonald’s Rd., Tiruchirappalli 620 001. & 0431/241-4414. Fax 0431/246-1451. [emailprotected]. 86 units. $55 standard double; $75 executive suite, $100 luxury suite. $10 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC,

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MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; health club; travel desk; currency exchange; florist; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; Ayurvedic massage; laundry; doctor-on-call; valet. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.

T H A N J AV U R

The best hotel in town, Hotel Sangam Thanjavur (& 04362/239-451 or -452; www.hotelsangam.com; Rs 2,100/$48 double) benefits greatly from its quiet location on Trichy Road, away from the town center. Fronted by neat gardens, it has comfortable guest rooms (A/C, TV, minibar) and a good range of amenities (room service; pool; health club), and the staff is very helpful. The restaurant, Thillana, is one of India’s rare small-town restaurants where your server not only manages to make convincing recommendations, but the food (rather spicy) actually meets your expectations—order chicken Chettinad, a Tamil favorite that explodes with tangy flavor, or vegetables sautéed in spicy Chettinad masala (avoid the Chinese and Continental dishes on offer). For Thanjavur’s best bargain, book into the Ideal River View Resort, cottage-style apartments clustered on the banks of a branch of the Cauvery River. Situated 7km (4 miles) out of town, the resort enjoys a remote setting amid paddy fields and wild vegetation. Each air-conditioned guest room has a balcony facing the Vennar River. With doubles at Rs 2,000 ($46) and an impressive range of amenities, including a pool, boating, riding, tennis, fortune-tellers, and Ayurvedic massage (& 04362/250533 or -0633; www.idealresort.com), this is good value. If, however, you have the time and energy, endure the 2-hour drive north of Thanjavur to overnight at the little village of Tranquebar (Tarangambadi in Tamil). Long forgotten, this coastal spot was a major 17th-century trading post for the Danes. Reserve a room at Bungalow on the Beach , a Neemrana group “non-hotel” opened at the end of 2004 (& 04364/28-8065; reservations only through Delhi office 011/2435-6145, -8962, or 011/51825001; [emailprotected]; www. neemranahotels.com; first-rate deluxe suite Rs 5,000/$114). Located in a 300-yearold building that used to house the British Collector, it has been wonderfully restored and furnished with classic period furniture. For those looking for atmospheric accommodations that are laid-back and have a fantastic location on the beach, this is definitely worth the 2-hour diversion. While you’re in Tranquebar, take a leisurely morning to roam Dansborg Fort, with its interesting museum, and the ruins and churches of King Street and Queen Street, all very quiet and rather nontouristy; or take a stroll about this typical fishing village and along its beach.

5 Madurai £ 498km (308 miles) SW of Chennai; 160km (99 miles) W of Trichy

Located on the banks of the Vaigai River, Madurai—apparently named for the nectar that flowed from Shiva’s hair as a blessing for the new city (madhuram is the Tamil word for sweetness)—was built by the Pandyan king Kulasekara. It was the capital of a kingdom that ruled much of South India during the 4th century B.C., and that conducted trade as far afield as Greece and Rome. Madurai also became a center for the great festivals of poetry and writing—the Tamil Sangams—that were being held more than 2 millennia ago. Through the millennia, various dynasties have battled over the city. The Vijayanagars built much of the temple during their reign, which lasted until the 16th century, when the Nayaks came to power, who in turn ruled until the arrival of the British in 1736. Today Madurai is

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also Tamil Nadu’s second-largest city, an ugly industrial sprawl plagued by pollution and traffic jams and other ills characteristic of unchecked development. But modern Madurai still embodies the spirit of Tamil Nadu’s deeply embedded temple culture, and labyrinthine Meenakshi Temple—celebrating the love of the Meenakshi goddess and her groom, Sundareswarar (the “Handsome God”), an avatar of Lord Shiva—is easily our first choice among Tamil Nadu’s temple destinations.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & AWAY Daily flights connect Madurai to Chennai or Mumbai. The airport is 12km (71⁄2 miles) south of the city center. Contact Indian Airlines (& 0452/269-0333 or 0452/234-1234 at the airport; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm). For information about Jet Airways’ daily flights, call & 0452/269-0771 through -0774. Trains from all over southern India pull in at Madurai Junction Railway Station (W. Veli St.; & 0452/274-3131). The journey from Chennai is 10 hours; from Bangalore, it’s 11 hours. From Pondicherry it’s 6 hours by car or train; best to overnight at Trichy. VISITOR INFORMATION Staff at the Government of Tamil Nadu Tourist Office (W. Veli St., next to the Tamil Nadu Hotel; & 0452/233-4757; www.maduraicity.com; Mon–Sat 10am–5:45pm) provides maps, advice on government-sponsored hotels and shops, and recommendations on guides. As elsewhere, beware of fake “official guides” you meet on the streets. GETTING AROUND Auto-rickshaw drivers tend to have a field day with foreign visitors; establish a flat rate before heading off. FESTIVAL If you’re in town for the Chittrai Festival (Apr–May), when Meenakshi’s marriage to Sundareswarar is celebrated, you’re in for a treat—the town attains a fever-pitch radiance.

WHAT TO SEE & DO The principal reason to visit Madurai—for you as well as for tens of thousands of Hindu pilgrims—is to experience the ecstatic spiritual life of Meenakshi Temple; what little else there is to see and do in town will pale in comparison. Legend recalls that Meenakshi began life as a glorious princess, born of fire with three breasts and eyes like a fish. As she grew older, she overpowered all the gods with her impossible beauty until she encountered Shiva, who transformed her heart to ghee (butter) and married her. While sitting inside the temple itself can provide hours of entertainment and an appreciation of Tamil Nadu’s vivid spirituality (as well as a sense of its religious commerce), the streets immediately near the great temple are full of character, and are best experienced by wandering around. Not far from the temple, Tirumalai Nayak Mahal (Palace Rd.; & 0452/233-2945; daily 9am–5pm; admission Rs 50/$1.15) is a 17-century Indo-Saracenic palace built by Tirumalai Nayak and later restored to some extent by Madras governor Lord Napier (it is currently under further renovation). Not all that much of the palace remains except for the large pillared courtyard known as the “Heavenly Pavilion,” where a nightly son et lumière show (English narration 6:45pm; Rs 10/25¢) sheds light on Madurai’s history. It was in Madurai in 1921 that Mahatma Gandhi historically exchanged his kurta and dhoti wardrobe for the loincloth, typically worn by the poor. Today the bloodstained khadi loincloth he wore when he was assassinated is encased in a glass shrine at Gandhi Memorial Museum, which chronicles India’s history leading up to independence

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(Tamukkam, 5km/3 miles east of the city center; & 0452/253/1060; www.madurai. com/gandhi.htm; daily 10am–1pm and 2–5:45pm; free admission). Avoid the adjacent Government Museum, where visitors experience two million years of history in 30 seconds as they whiz past a 9th-century Vishnu statue, 12th-century Pandyan works, undated Chola statues, and a stuffed polar bear. If you haven’t tired of temples yet, Thirupparankundram Temple (free admission), 8km (5 miles) from Madurai, makes for a pleasant outing, particularly on Friday, when women with marriage or family troubles place candles or occasionally sit on the temple floor and create rangoli patterns on the ground, using colored powders and flowers, as offerings to Durga. Nearby, Owayat, the 40-year-old temple elephant, shuffles and waits to bestow blessings on those willing to donate a rupee, gracefully accepted in a cupped trunk. Shri Meenakshi-Sundareshwarar Temple One of South India’s biggest, busiest pilgrimage sites (around 15,000 pilgrims each day; 10,000 more on Fri), this sprawling temple, always undergoing renovation and repairs, is a place of intense spiritual activity almost unparalleled in India. A high wall surrounds the complex, and 12 looming goparums (pyramidal gateways) mark the various entrances. Garish stucco gods, demons, beasts, and heroes smother these towers in a writhing, fascinating mass of symbolism, vividly painted in a riot of bright Disneyesque colors. Traditionally, entrance to the complex is through the eastern Ashta Shakti Mandapa, a hall of pillars graced by sculptural representations of the goddess Shakti in her many aspects. Adjacent to this, Meenakshi Nayaka Mandapa is where pilgrims purchase all manner of devotional paraphernalia and holy souvenirs. Near the inner gate, a temple elephant, daubed with eye shadow and blusher, earns her keep by accepting a few rupees’ donation in exchange for a blessing—bestowed with a light tap of her dexterous trunk. From here you can wander at will, finding your way at some stage to the impressive 16th-century Hall of a Thousand Pillars. This hall (or museum as it is also referred to) has 985 elegantly sculpted columns, including a set of “musical pillars” that produce the seven Carnatic musical notes when tapped (a ticket officer will gladly demonstrate in exchange for a tip). All around the complex of shrines and effigies, various pujas (prayers) and rituals are conducted, some under the guiding hand of a bare-chested Brahmin priest, others as spontaneous expressions of personal, elated devotion. Against one stone image of buxom Meenakshi, devotees actually throw balls of ghee—a ritual prayer tossed at her to keep her cool, her heart apparently having turned to butter when she met Shiva. On other statues, layer upon layer of ghee and oil have turned surfaces smooth and black; they are stained by years of turmeric and vermilion powder sprinkled and daubed on them by believers seeking blessings and hope. At the heart of the complex are the sanctums of the goddess Meenakshi (Parvati) and of Sundareshvara (Shiva). What often eludes visitors to the heaving temple at Madurai is the city’s deeply imbedded cult of fertility; behind the reverence and severity of worship, the Meenakshi Temple is a celebration of the divine union of the eternal lovers, represented symbolically at the end of the day when they are ceremoniously carried (a ritual you can observe until they enter the inner sanctum, which is off-limits to non-Hindus) and brought together for an evening of celestial fornication. This is the time to head for the stairs around the great tank, where devotees gather to chat and relax at the end of the day.

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Bounded by N., E., S., and W. Chitrai sts. & 0452/234-4360. www.maduraimeenakshi.org. Daily 4am–12:30pm and 4–9:30pm. Free admission. No entrance to main sanctum for non-Hindus. Deposit shoes outside entrance. Thousand Pillar Museum: Adults Rs 2 (4¢), children under 12 Rs 1 (2¢). Daily 7am–8pm.

WHERE TO STAY Situated on a hillock known as Pasumalai, and blessed with sprawling tree-filled grounds, this colonial-style hotel—without a doubt your best option in Madurai—offers panoramic views of the Temple City. Arrived at by a long driveway (a sign en route warns of PEACOCKS CROSSING), this was the original residence of Sir William Harvey. The main building, built in 1891, is decorated with hunting trophies and includes a well-stocked colonial-style bar. Accommodations are spread over five different blocks; opt for the spacious deluxe rooms that are housed in the original colonial buildings and offer fantastic views from wide bay windows (book room no. 21 or 22) and shared balconies. Superior rooms are no less comfortable, offering either pool or garden views. Among the hotel’s offerings (2-hr. notice required) is palmist Mr. Mani, who has looked into the futures of nearly 25,000 people with “almost accuracy”! Taj Garden Retreat, Madurai

40 T.P.K. Rd., Pasumalai, Madurai 625 004. & 0452/237-1601. Fax 0452/237-1636. www.tajhotels.com. 63 units. $115 standard double, $140 superior double, $155 deluxe double. $20 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; tennis court; badminton court; jogging track; Ayurvedic center; nursery; travel desk, car hire; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry; dry cleaning; doctor-on-call; pharmacy service; palmist. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer. Deluxe rooms have tea- and coffee-making facilities.

WHERE TO DINE The city has a fair number of scruffy dining halls that are well attended by locals—and for good reason. Thali (multicourse) meals served in these dime-a-dozen joints are delicious and extremely economical. But if the idea of eating with your fingers makes you uncomfortable, head for the classy all-day restaurant at Taj Garden Retreat, Madurai (see above). Or head for the pleasant Surya Rooftop Restaurant (110 W. Permal Maistry St.; & 0452/234-3151; daily 4pm–midnight; Rs 35–Rs 100/80¢–$2.30). Situated on the fairy-lights-adorned rooftop of the 1970s-style Supreme Hotel, Surya opens in time for an early sundowner session, making it a popular place from which to admire the setting sun on Meenakshi Temple. Of the food, a personal favorite is Hyderabadi vegetable balls, great with tawa paratha, a soft tandoori bread. Portions are generous and neatly served.

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8 Karnataka & Hyderabad: Kingdoms of the South ixteenth-century visitors to the royal S courts of present-day Karnataka returned to Europe with stupendous tales of wealth—cities overflowing with jewels, and streets littered with diamonds. Over the centuries, the lush green state that occupies a vast chunk of India’s southwestern seaboard and much of the Deccan plateau saw numerous kingdoms rise and fall, powerful dynasties that left legacies of impressive palaces and monumental cities that now lie scattered throughout the interior, some of them

Tips

well off the beaten track, but worth the effort and time it takes to seek them out. The post-independence state of Karnataka, unified in 1950 on the basis of common language, is predominantly made up of the once-princely state of Mysore and the Berar territories of the Nizam of Hyderabad’s kingdom. Once one of the richest cities in India, Hyderabad is now the vibrant capital of neighboring Andhra Pradesh, and a possible excursion from Bangalore, state capital of Karnataka. Bangalore, in many ways the

Planning Your Tour

Most travelers head directly for Bangalore, Karnataka’s capital, using it as a base to fly to Hyderabad, capital of Andhra Pradesh (discussed at the end of the chapter), or as a base from which to catch an overnight train to and from the “lost city” of Hampi, which lies 320km (198 miles) north. (Note that more adventurous travelers, usually backpackers, catch a bus from Goa and head straight here.) Remote and serene, Hampi is good for a few relaxing days—at least 3 if you intend to explore the under-visited temples of the Chalukyas, which lie north of Hampi. The second principal destination in Karnataka is Mysore, again usually reached from Bangalore. If you’re in Tamil Nadu or Kerala, it’s also possible to drive directly to Mysore, passing Rajiv Gandhi National Park, or to approach it from the coastal city of Mangalore, connected to Goa and Kerala via the Konkan railway. Spend at least a day in Mysore before spending the next day or two visiting the beautifully decorated 11th-century temples at Belur and Halebid, and the nearby Jain monolithic statue at Sravanabelgola. Karnataka also has a few stunning beaches, just south of the Goan border, but unless you can make do with limited facilities, save your sunbathing for Goa and Kerala.

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country’s most “Western” city, is today famous for its energetic nightlife and highly evolved computer and technology industries. Although it offers little by way of sightseeing attractions, it’s a great place to relax; you can shop by day and explore the bars and clubs at night before taking an overnight train to explore the ghost city of Hampi. This great medieval Hindu capital of the south is said to have once rivaled Rome in size and wealth. The ruins of the 14th-century Vijayanagar kingdom are set in a boulder-strewn landscape that proves fascinating in its own right—deservedly Karnataka’s most famous attraction. Karnataka’s other primary destination is Mysore, the famous “City of Incense,” where vibrant markets are perfumed with

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the scents of jasmine, musk, sandalwood, and frangipani. Ruled by India’s most enlightened Maharajas, Mysore is home to some 17 palaces, of which Amba Vilas is arguably India’s most opulent. Just a few hours south of Mysore is Rajiv Gandhi National Park, home to herds of wild elephant and the more elusive Bengal tiger. Northward lie the “Jewel Box” temples built by the mighty Hoysala warriors in the cities of Belur and Hal, best reached via Sravanabelgola, home to one of the oldest and most important Jain pilgrimage sites in India: an 18m (60-ft.) statue of the naked Lord Gomateswara, said to be the tallest monolithic statue on Earth and one of the most spiritually satisfying destinations in India.

1 Bangalore If you’ve been in India a while, the capital of Karnataka will probably feel like a long, soothing break from endless commotion. The first city in India to get electricity, Bangalore continues, in many ways, to blaze the trail in terms of the country’s quest for a modern identity. Once known as the Garden City (and less encouragingly as Pensioner’s Paradise), the country’s most pristine city evolved significantly when the hightech revolution arrived and Bangalore suddenly found itself at the center of the nation’s massive computer hardware and software industries. Its cosmopolitan spirit fueled as much by its lively bar and cafe culture as by the influx of international businesspeople, India’s high-tech hub has a high-energy buzz, yet it’s tangibly calmer and cleaner than most other places in the country, with far and away the best climate of any Indian city—no doubt the reason the majority of upwardly mobile Indians rank it the number-one city in which to live. Unless you go in for cafe society, you won’t find very many attractions. The city’s real appeal is its zesty contemporary Indian lifestyle and its usefulness as a base for getting to the extraordinary temples and ruins of the Deccan interior and the vibrant cities of Hyderabad and Mysore.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & MOVING ON By Air Bangalore’s airport (8km/5 miles from M.G. Rd.) is the busiest in South India, connected to most of the major cities in India (including Hyderabad). Several international flights to the Far East, Europe, and the U.S. fly out of the airport as well. To get to your hotel from the airport, it’s best to use a taxi (about Rs 150–Rs 300/$3.40–$6.85) from the prepaid counter. By Train As a major transport hub, Bangalore is reached by a significant number of rail connections. Journeys from North Indian cities, however, are extremely time-consuming; the fastest connection with Delhi takes 35 hours, while Mumbai is 24 hours away. From Chennai (Tamil Nadu), take the 5-hour Shatabdi Express. To get to

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Mysore, catch the 2-hour Shatabdi Express (departs Wed–Mon at 11am). For Hyderabad, catch the comfortable overnight Rajdhani Express (departs four times a week at 6:45pm). Bangalore City and Bangalore Cantonment are the two railway stations; the latter is a bit closer to the main downtown area. By Road For the greatest amount of freedom, you should hire a car and driver, particularly if you plan to get off the beaten track. VISITOR INFORMATION Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation (KSTDC) information counters are found at the railway station (& 080/22870068; daily 6:30am–9:30pm) and at the airport (& 080/2522- 0501; 24 hr). Karnataka Tourism (Khanija Bhavan, Race Course Rd.; & 080/2235-2901 through 2903; Mon–Sat 10:30am–5:30pm, closed Sun and second Sat of the month; www.kstdc.nic.in) is reliable for sightseeing information rather than info on accommodations and dining; ask for a copy of Bangalore This Fortnight. The Government of India Tourist Office is at the KSFC Building, 48 Church St. (& 080/2558-5417; Mon–Fri 9:30am–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm), where you can pick up a copy of the free quarterly guide City Info. GETTING AROUND By Auto-Rickshaw & Taxi Insist that auto-rickshaw drivers use their meters. Generally, the first kilometer will cost Rs 10 (25¢); each kilometer after that costs Rs 5 (10¢). After 10pm, drivers will try to make you pay double; pay no more than 50% above the recorded fare. You won’t find taxis that you can just hail off the street, but metered “call taxis” are available almost all over the city; see our recommendation in “Fast Facts: Bangalore,” below; or ask your hotel for a reputable number (expect to pay minimum fare of Rs 35/80¢ for 4km/21⁄2 miles, Rs 9/20¢ each additional kilometer, plus extra for waiting and luggage). With Car & Driver Plan on spending in the region of Rs 150 ($3.40) per hour, or Rs 400 ($9.10) for a 4-hour tour, which will include 40km (25 miles) of free mileage. To hire a car and driver, try Hertz (& 080/2532-5404; Raheja Plaza, Commissariat Rd.), which operates around-the-clock. GUIDED TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS KSTDC (address above; & 080/22352901) conducts sightseeing tours around the state. Sita Travels (1 St. Mark’s Rd.; & 080/2558-8892) and Marco Polo Tours (2 Janardhan Towers, Residency Rd.; & 080/5122-1222) are reliable all-rounders. Cosmopole Travels (& 080/2228-1591) is useful for event-related destinations such as the Nrityagram Dance Village.

FAST FACTS: Bangalore Airlines Jet Airways: & 080/2555-0856 or airport 080/2522-1929. Indian Airlines: & 080/2297-8406 through -8408 (airport) or 080/2522 6233. Area Code The area code for Bangalore is 080. ATMs Visit the shop-intensive vicinity of M.G. Road. Bookstores Strand Book Stall is at S113-114 Manipal Centre, Dickenson Road (& 080/2558-0000). Higginbothams is at 68 M.G. Rd. (& 080/2558- 6574). Sankar’s Book Stall is at 15/2 Museum Rd. (& 080/2558-6867). The huge Landmark bookstore can be found at Forum Mall in Koramangala, far from downtown Bangalore.

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Car Rentals Gullivers Tours & Travels is at B2-SPL Habitat, no. 138, Gangadhara Chetty Rd.; (& 080/2558-0108 or -3213). Currency Exchange Exchange cash or get credit card advances from Wall Street Finances (3 House of Lords, St. Mark’s Rd.; & 080/2227-1812; Mon–Fri 9:30am–6pm, Sat 9:30am–5pm) or from Standard Chartered (Raheja Towers, 26 M.G. Rd.; Mon–Fri 10:30am–5pm, Sat 10:30am–1:30pm). Alternatively, you can go to Thomas Cook (55 M.G. Rd.; & 080/2558-1337 or 2559-4168; Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm). Directory Assistance The number & 080/2222-2222 operates much like a talking Yellow Pages service, where you get free updated telephone numbers and addresses for various city establishments. Drugstores Twenty-four-hour chemists include Khoday’s Pharma (214 Westminster, Cunningham Rd.; & 080/5698-7386 or 080/2222-4306; other branches 080/2226-8677 and 080/2227-3111) and Mallya Hospital (Vittal Mallya Rd., south of Cubbon Park; & 080/2227-7979). Emergencies Dial & 100 for police emergencies. Hospital Both Manipal Hospital (98 Rustum Bagh, Airport Rd.; & 080/25268901 or -6447) and St. John’s Medical College and Hospital (Sarjapur Rd.; & 080/2553-0724 or -2411) are decent options. Internet Access Cybercafes abound in this IT-savvy city (see “Cafe Society,” below). You’ll find a Sify i way on Residency Rd. (& 080-5112-4226; www.iway. com) and a Reliance Webworld on M.G. Rd (& 080/3061-3080; www.reliance info.com); outlets of both are found all over the city. Police Contact Cubbon Park Station at & 080/2294-2591, -2087, or 100. Post Office As always, your best bet for sending mail is through your hotel. The GPO (& 080/2286-6772 or 080/2289-2036; Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10:30am–1pm) is architecturally interesting. It’s located at the intersection of Raj Bhavan and Ambedkar Road. Railway For inquiries, dial & 131 or 132. Taxis Call Gopinath Radio Call Taxi (& 080/2360-5555 or 2856-5000; 24 hr.).

WHAT TO SEE & DO Although it was ruled by various dynasties, Bangalore’s chief historical sights date back to the 18th-century reign of Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan, “the Lion of Mysore,” who put up the most spirited resistance to British imperialism. But more than anything, Bangalore is about experiencing an Indian city that brims with bars, restaurants, clubs, and positive energy—a great place for walking, window-shopping and, at night, letting your hair down. The Garden City also has lovely parks, some of which date back over 2 centuries, of which the botanical gardens at Lal Bagh are the most impressive. Set off early for Bugle Hill, site of the Bull Temple (sanctum timings daily 7:30am–11:30am and 4:30–8:30pm). Built by the city’s original architect, Kempe Gowda, this 16th-century black-granite statue of Nandi (Shiva’s sacred bull) literally dwarfs his “master,” and is kept glistening by regular applications of coconut oil.

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Cafe Society Caffeine is a popular fix in a city where socializing is the favored pastime of a money-wielding cosmopolitan crowd. Get yours at Java City (24/1 Lavelle Rd.; & 080/5112-0647; daily 11:30am–11:30pm; Wi-Fi enabled), where you can also indulge in a slice of rum-and-chocolate cake (other branches are at 47 Church St. and 13 Cunningham Rd.). Or head for cool Cinnamon Barista (11 Walton Rd., off Lavelle Rd.), attached to the highly recommended Cinnamon boutique. You can also surf the Internet while getting your caffeine rush at Café Coffee Day, Bangalore’s first cybercafe (13 Brigade Rd.; & 080/3090-2967; daily 8am–10:30pm; Rs 70/$1.60 for 1 hr. and two coffees). For something with less of a Starbucks feel and a larger menu, Nilgiris Café (171 Brigade Rd.; & 080/ 2558-8401; daily 8am–10:30pm) is a welcome choice. Situated in the heart of Bangalore’s busy shopping area, this simple, clean cafe serves great iced or Ceylon teas and cappuccinos at half the prices of other cafes.

Nearby is a Ganesha temple (Sri Dodda Ganapathi), which houses an enormous statue of the elephant-headed deity made of 100 kilos of rank-smelling butter. Apparently this idol is remade every 4 years, and the butter distributed to devotees as prasad (blessed food). Picnicking with the family and cricketing with the boys are popular pastimes in Cubbon Park (Cantonment), laid out in 1864 by the Mysore engineer, Richard Sankey. Today many visitors come to view the lovely buildings that surround the park as well as to visit the Government Museum and Venkatappa Art Gallery (& 080/ 2286-4483; Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Rs 4/8¢), which focuses on sculpture. It contains works from Khajuraho, Bihar, and Madhya Pradesh dating back to the 10th century, Buddhist figures from the 4th- and 5th-century Gandhara school, and Hoysala carvings from Belur, Halebid, and Hampi—not that these are really a match for the real thing, seen on location. While in the vicinity, take a walk or drive past Vidhana Vidhi to admire its Greco colonial–style buildings, including India’s largest state headquarters, Vidhana Soudha, Karnataka’s State Legislature and Secretariat building (no entry allowed), to marvel at what is termed “neo-Dravidian” architecture. Its blend of styles from across India is capped by one of India’s most recognizable symbols—the four-headed gold lion of Ashoka, India’s celebrated early Buddhist king. Over the entrance, a gleaming gold-lettered sign bears the somewhat optimistic slogan GOVERNMENT WORK IS GOD’S WORK. Across the road from the Vidhana Soudha, fringing Cubbon Park, is Karnataka’s two-story High Court building, or Attara Kacheri, an attractive design with red bricks and monumental Corinthian columns. If it’s a real garden you’re after, head straight for the botanical gardens at Lal Bagh (daily 9am–6pm; Rs 2/4¢), conceived and laid out by Sultan Hyder Ali in 1760. His son, Tipu, expanded the gardens further, planting exotic plants from Persia, Kabul, Turkey, and Mauritius (tropical and subtropical species) over 96 hectares (240 acres). Highlights include the Lawn Clock and the British-built glasshouse, structurally based on London’s Crystal Palace. After visiting the gardens, be sure to pop in for a meal at the Bangalore lunch institution, Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (see “Where to Dine,” below), a short distance from the entrance. Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace (daily 9am–5pm; Rs 2/4¢), built toward the end of the 18th century entirely from timber, is a relic in a city committed more to progress

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Karnataka 9 New NewDelhi Delhi

MAHARASHTRA Bidar

MAHARASHTRA

Mumbai (Bombay) KARNATAKA

Sholapur Humnabad

Bay of Bengal

Gulbarga

Bijapur

Wadi

Basavana Bagevadi Shorapur

Ghatprabha

Hatti Raichur

Gokak Belgaum

Aihole Badami

ANDHRA PRADESH

Bellary

Tungabhadra Reservoir

Kotturu

KARNATAKA

Gokarn Yana

Hampi (Vijaynagar)

Lakkundi

Mundgod

Karwar

Hospet

Hubli Dandeli

Maski

Gadag

Dharwar

Mudgal

Pattadakal

Saundatti Kittur

Hyderabad

Gangapur

Bhima Krish na

Sirsi

Davangere Sagar

Chitradurga

Shimoga

Bhatkal

Bhadravati

Veda vati

Talguppa

Kumta

Hosdurga

Sringeri

Udupi Mudabidri Mangalore

Tumkur Ariskere Chikmagalur Kyatsandra Belur Halebid Dharamastala Channarayapatna Hassan Bangalore

Subrahmanya way Ra i l kan Kon

Arabian Sea

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Madikeri (Mercara)

Bylakuppe

Sravanabelgola Srirangapatnam Kaveri Mysore

Nagarhole National Park Chamrajnagar Kharapur KERALA Mudumalai Bandipur Wildlife National Sanctuary Park Udhagamandalam

Nandi Hills Kolar Kolar Gold Fields

Hogenekal Falls 7

Salem

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Breathe Away Anxiety & Stress with India’s Hottest New Age Guru Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, once a disciple of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi (renowned spiritual guide of the Beatles), is the subcontinent’s hottest New Age guru— many consider “The Art of Living,” his nonsectarian philosophy of enjoying life for the moment, the perfect spiritual currency for our material times. His main ashram lies on 24 hectares (60 acres) of lush green hillside in south Bangalore, where every evening thousands of the city’s well-heeled gather for the evening lecture and satsang (devotional singing). The articulate Sri Sri’s appeal lies in the fact that he does not emphasize incarnations or abstinences, but encourages his disciples to enjoy the present without guilt while also encouraging them to contribute towards humanitarian and environmental concerns. His adherents—predominantly from India’s growing urban elite, but also hugely popular on foreign shores (San Franciscans have a real penchant for his teachings)—can go about their hectic lives and remain relatively apolitical yet feel good about not discarding all sense of religion and tradition. A philosophy of convenience, some say, but even his fiercest detractors admit the value of sudarshan kriya, an ancient breathing technique taught when you attend the “Art of Living” course. The 30-minute-a-day practice is said to encourage the flow of oxygen to the whole body, ostensibly discouraging the storage of toxins and thus helping release anxiety, frustration, depression, and anger, leaving you with a genuine sense of calm and well-being. To attend an evening session or a 14-hour Art of Living course spread over several days, call ahead (& 080/2843-2273, -2274, or -2832; 21st Km, Kanakapura Main Rd., Udayapura, Bangalore 560 082; www.artofliving.org).

than to preservation. It has a somewhat sophomoric exhibition with extensive text about Tipu’s life and military conquests as well as those of his father, Hyder Ali Khan. Next door is an enormously active 17th-century temple, built by the Wodeyar kings; and just north are the ruins of Bangalore Fort, largely destroyed during the AngloMysore War.

WHERE TO STAY Bangalore has a huge range of excellent top-quality hotels, of which our personal favorites are The Park hotel for its contemporary über-slick styling and in-house nightlife, and the Taj West End Hotel for its heritage atmosphere (both reviewed below). You may want to compare online rates with the following hotel rates, which offer the same top-end luxury and amenities. As you’ll find elsewhere in India, many of the lodgings in Bangalore quote their rates in dollars or euros. ITC Hotel Windsor Sheraton & Towers, popular with Bollywood’s elite and high-profile businesspeople and politicians (including Tony Blair), retains the look and character of a neoclassical English country house; ask for a room in the Manor Block (& 080/2226-9898; fax 080/2226-4941; www.welcomgroup.com). The

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Oberoi (37/39 M.G. Rd.; & 080/2558-5858; www.oberoihotels.com; doubles from $335) is another excellent hotel, set amid gardens with lovely views over the lawns and the swimming pool. Standard units are not quite as large or as elegant as those at the Windsor Sheraton, but they’re spacious enough and luxuriously decorated with floral fabrics and antique finishes; ask for a room on an upper floor for better views. But for over-the-top opulence, Leela Palace Kempinski—judged by Forbes Magazine one of the world’s best new business hotels in 2001 and garnering CNN’s Ultimate Service Award for the second year in a row in 2004—is the hands-down winner. A baroque rendition of contemporary Indo-Saracenic architecture, looming large in pale pink, it offers enormous “conservatory” rooms with private balconies and, along with all the modern conveniences, elegant four-poster beds, rococo gold-gilt lamps, and silk duvet covers. Deluxe rooms are also very spacious and styled in the same manner (23 Airport Rd.; & 080/2521-1234; www.theleela.com; doubles: $380 deluxe, $400 conservatory, including breakfast). In the (comparatively) moderate price range, opt for the Taj-run Gateway Hotel on Residency Road; its best accommodations are the recently refurbished “executive” guest rooms. Ask for an even-numbered, pool-facing room on the fourth floor (& 080/5660-4545; www.tajhotels.com; doubles from $195). Much cheaper, but perfectly serviceable, St. Mark’s is a small, neat business hotel (& 080/2227-9090; www.stmarkshotel.com) with doubles from Rs 4,400 ($100); alternatively, Ivory Towers (& 080/2558-9333; Rs 3,300/$75) has 12 spotless suites with great views (ask for one with a balcony) and all amenities (including Wi-Fi). Its restaurant, Ebony, is reviewed below. Perched on the 12th and 13th floors of Barton Centre, gob-smack on busy M.G. Road, Ivory Towers is conveniently located if you want to be downtown. But our top budget recommendation is the charming Villa Pottipati (reviewed below). The Park Themed around Bangalore’s reputation as India’s informationtechnology city and its historic connection with silk production, this compact boutique hotel features top-class interiors by Tina Ellis (of London-based Conran). In the lobby—dominated by a gigantic silk curtain—rough, smooth, and suede textures are offset with brushed metal and a row of large white orbs of light. The white-marble reception counter is topped by orange Apple laptops—behind the counter, staff wear pale gray jackets over white T-shirts. The four floors are styled around a palette of strong chromatic elements that refer to the Indian landscape; pale lime and iris purple suggest the mountains, while a desert oasis is alluded to with ultramarine and saffron. Guest rooms are on the small side and don’t have great views (ask for a pool-facing room), but they are beautifully finished—oak flooring, designer rugs, black-and-white photographs of Bangalore, oak-and-leather director’s chairs, and minimalist metal-framed four-poster beds. Bathrooms are great, with large rain showers that adjust to give you a water massage. Rooms on the desert-themed Residence Floor come with a host of additional services, including airport transfers, late checkout, sparkling wine on arrival, head and shoulder massage, Internet access, in-room fax and laptop on request, DVD player, and access to the elegant private lounge, where breakfast and all-day tea and coffee are served. 14/7 M.G. Rd., Bangalore 560 001. & 080/2559-4666. Fax 080/2559-4029. www.theparkhotels.com. resv.blr@the parkhotels.com. 109 units. $225 deluxe double, $250 deluxe balcony double, $260 deluxe terrace double, $275 luxury double; $325 Residence Floor; $375–$400 suite. All rates include breakfast and one-way transfer. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge bar; pool; health spa; indoor games; travel services; sightseeing; business center, currency exchange; gift shop; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry; theater; doctor-on-call; valet; library. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi enabled, minibar.

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Taj West End Hotel A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, West End dates back to 1887, when it was a 10-room Victorian boardinghouse. Today the luxury hotel retains its old-world charm while providing guests with modern conveniences. The stately lobby features a central atrium with skylight, dark walnut paneling, teakwood fluting on the walls, lots of plants, plush sofas, and a grand piano. It opens onto Mynt, the hotel’s 24-hour coffee shop serving Mediterranean, Italian, and Indian food at separate counters, each with a chef who interacts with guests. Accommodations are spread over more than 9 hectares (22 acres) of gardens with wonderful old banyan trees—thankfully, a buggy whisks you to your room after check-in. Rooms comprise various pitched-roof-veranda blocks and more recent structures modeled on similar colonial architecture; each has a private balcony overlooking the extensive gardens. Try to book in the Heritage Wing, which has four-poster beds and old-Bangalore-theme lithographs. “Superior” rooms are by comparison rather ordinary, but the private balcony with lovely views is a consolation. If you value your space, fork out the extra cash for an executive suite; these are massive, warm-toned, carpeted spaces with long balconies and high arched ceilings. Bathrooms are large, with separate tub and shower, and a walk-in dressing room. Race Course Rd., Bangalore 560 001. & 080/5660-5660. Fax 080/5660-5700 or 080/2220-4575. www.tajhotels. com. 129 units. $285 superior double, $350 luxury double (includes one-way airport transfer); $405 Taj Club; $430–$550 suite. $20 extra bed. Taj Club rooms and suites include breakfast and airport transfers. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; 2 tennis courts; golf and riding on request; fitness center; travel assistance; car hire; currency exchange; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry and dry cleaning; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV (some wall-mounted plasma), minibar, hair dryer. Taj Club units: fax machines on request, DVD players, personal butlers.

Villa Pottipati Surrounded by mango, jackfruit, avocado, jacaranda, Value and gulmohar trees, heady shivalinga blossoms at the entrance, this is the most authentic and reasonably priced heritage experience you can have in the heart of this city of steel, glass, and concrete. Time has stood still in this stately villa of red cement floors, teakwood beams, and high ceilings, furnished with teak and rosewood antique furniture and beautiful artifacts. Pottipati gets its name from a village in Andhra Pradesh, from where the Reddy family (who own this property, now managed by the Neemrana group) came 121 years ago. Service is personal and exceptional, with the kind of attention guests probably enjoyed a century ago. But you won’t have to forgo any modern amenities, and at press time a new pool was being built. Dining is indoors, surrounded by teak and bronze, or outdoors under a canopy of mango trees; everything, from the calamari starter to the Goan prawn vindaloo, is delicious. As at all Neemrana properties, each guest room is different. No matter which room you stay in, do ask for a tour of unoccupied others, named after traditional South Indian saris. The Venkatagiri Suite, with a stunning turquoise-blue Venkatagiri sari covering the bed, offers incredible value, with a living room, a private dressing area, an area for kids, two large wardrobes, a bathroom with a large bathtub, and a veranda. The Rajadurga Suite rewards early birds with spectacular sunrise views. The fabulous Kanchipuram Suite has a private pillared balcony, an anteroom for kids, an old-fashioned lime-green bathroom, and a quaint antique gramophone. 142, 8th Cross, 4th Main Rd., Malleswaram, Bangalore 560 003. & 080/2336-0777 or 080/5128-0832 through 0834. Fax 080/5128-0835. www.neemranahotels.com. 8 units. Rs 2,500–Rs 4,000 ($57–$91) double. Rates include bed tea, evening tea, and breakfast. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Dining room; restaurant; bar; concierge; travel desk; car hire; currency exchange; laundry and dry cleaning; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi enabled, hair dryer, safe.

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WHERE TO DINE With Bangalore’s IT boom, the number of professionals with disposable cash has risen exponentially—leading in turn to an explosion of options on the dining scene. Though many of the best restaurants are located in hotels, there are countless other eating places to suit every mood. As in Tamil Nadu, you can get a good, clean, wholesome vegetarian tiffin (“light meal”—pronounced tea-pun) all over Bangalore. Most famous of all is MTR (reviewed below); but equally good for its Tamil Iyengar food is Kadambam (112 C South Block, Manipal Centre, Dickenson Rd.; other branches as well). Gold-framed pictures of deities line the wall, the simple open kitchen is spotless, the food is cheap and delicious, and the filter coffee—if, that is, you’ve developed a taste for sweetened South Indian filter coffee—is simply extraordinary. For authentic Karnataka cuisine, Halli Mane (no. 14, 3rd Cross Rd., off Sampige Rd., Malleswaram; & 080/2346-9797) is Bangalore’s busiest restaurant. Its tiled roof, basic furnishings, and stainless-steel crockery evoke the ambience of a typical rural home. Pure vegetarian, dirt-cheap thalis (Rs 10/25¢) or buffet meals (Rs 50/$1.15) are served here without fuss. Chat with the friendly manager, Mr. Ramnath, who will assist you in selecting just the right dishes for your palate. For affordable, nonvegetarian coastal Karnataka cuisine, Unicorn (94/3 Infantry Rd.; & 0802559-1670) is great. The menu changes every week but expect fish, coconut milk, and lots of flavor. In the big hotels, besides Karavalli, reviewed below, the following are worth a mention: For North and South Indian cuisine, Jamavar at Leela Palace Kempinski (& 080/ 2521-1234) is one of Bangalore’s class acts, with arguably the best tandoor dishes in town. For specialty South Indian cuisine, there’s no better place than Dakshin (& 080/2226-9898), the upmarket restaurant at the Hotel Windsor Sheraton, with a menu that represents the best of all four southern states. It’s hard to know what to order from their extensive menu (Rs 300–Rs 800/$6.85–$18), so go with the maitre d’s recommendation or get a thali (the seafood thali, Rs 1,000/$23, is fab). If your system needs a break from spicy cuisine, i-t.ALIA (reviewed below) is Bangalore’s most stylish Italian restaurant; it’s situated in The Park hotel. If you want to get out of the hotel atmosphere, head for Sunny’s (Vittal Mallaya Rd.; & 080/2224-3642), with its spacious outdoor and indoor seating and lounge bar. The eclectic menu is a reflection of Bangalore’s growing sophistication. Favorites here include baked brie with toasted almonds; stir-fried calamari with basil and garlic; angel-hair pasta with fresh chunky tomatoes and extra-virgin olive oil; and the flavorful, slightly spiced lamb lasagna, served piping hot. Even better is Shiok (Indiranagar; & 080/5116-1800; www.shiokfood. com), a fine-dining restaurant run by owner-chef Madhu Menon, who has traveled extensively in the Far East to study different styles of cooking. Thai, Malay, Indonesian, and Singaporean dishes are on offer, with more than 60% of the ingredients flown in from overseas: lemon-grass chili prawns (Rs 250/$5.70), spiced fish grilled in banana leaves (Rs 150/$3.40), and Buddha’s Feast (Rs 110/$2.50) are all recommended. Art ECLECTIC/FUSION Pretentious as the name sounds, this is one of Bangalore’s hippest restaurants, done out in bright shades of yellow and orange. Chef Ramdeo Das really does prepare each dish as though it were a work of art. A standout entree is “Birds in Flight,” a seafood combo comprising prawns prepared in olive oil and lemon juice, and fresh fish stuffed with smoked salmon, served on a bed of spinach and broccoli and topped with a creamy basil sauce. Cheaper, quick meals are also available.

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Cosmo Village, Magrath Rd. & 080/5112-7373 or -7474. Main courses Rs 170–Rs 350 ($3.90–$8); seafood platter Rs 750 ($17). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3:15pm and 7–11pm.

VIETNAMESE Lush tropical foliage, a lotus pond, and the scent of frangipani in bloom set the mood for Taj West End’s newest—and India’s first—Vietnamese restaurant. The decor is Vietnamese-chic: water-hyacinth fiber and dark silks; leather ottomans and natural stone tables; silk lanterns and flaming torches. You can watch the chefs at work in their open kitchen. The hands-down favorite starter is the crunchy raw mango salad, followed by the coconut-based Vietnamese caris (curry) served in a clay pot, and accompanied not by rice but a baguette. For a lighter meal, we recommend the perfectly done braised fish with pepper and garlic or the stir-fried chicken with lemon grass and chili (vegetarians can order the crisp stirfried greens with garlic). End with sweet sticky rice and mung bean in banana leaves, the mung bean ice cream, or the fresh fruit ice creams in seasonal flavors.

Blue Ginger

Taj West End. & 080/5660-5660. Main courses Rs 405–Rs 872 ($9.15–$20). AE, MC, DC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11:45pm.

Ebony ECLECTIC INDIAN Here’s an unexpected treat on the rooftop of a lurid city-center building. After the unpromising elevator ride up, you can dine alfresco and enjoy the best city views in Bangalore. Try mutton pulao, based on a Parsi recipe; it’s made with tender meat and potatoes steeped in Persian spices (cinnamon, cardamom, and rose petals), then layered with saffron-flavored rice before being cooked with an onion-based gravy. Another fantastic meat dish is Manan’s pepper mutton; this comes from the temple town of Kumbakonam (Tamil Nadu), where Manan is the owner of a small eatery. The mutton is cooked in a paste made from roasted pepper, coriander seeds, and Indian spices. If you’d prefer to avoid meat, try paneer kairi dopiaza, made from paneer, green mangoes, and fresh coriander; have it with garlic naan (bread). Thai food is served daily with a live cooking counter on Thursday and Friday (reserve ahead). 13th Floor, Ivory Tower Hotel, Barton Centre, 84 M.G. Rd. & 080/2558-9333 or -5164. Main courses Rs 175–Rs 335 ($1.70–$7.60). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 7:30–11:15pm.

i-t.ALIA ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL Chef Abhijit Saha’s brand-new menu may have items that are a mouthful to pronounce, but once you taste them, you will be left speechless. Flavor gets top priority here, but for this globe-trotting chef, creative presentation is equally important. Begin with the light and gentle-on-thepalate lettuce and asparagus soup and the insalata di mela verde, noci arrostite sedano e gorgonzola, a green apple and rocket lettuce salad with walnuts and Gorgonzola dressing—divine. Whether you pick a simple tapenade-stuffed potato gnocchi or the gamberoni grigliati conpatate arrosto, carciofi e pomodoro (king prawns with artichokes, roasted potatoes, and tomato), you will be served a platter as beautiful as it is delicious. Even the humble pizza is not so humble in this restaurant. The Park hotel, 14/7 M.G. Rd., Bangalore 560 001. & 080/2559-4666. Main courses lunch Rs 400–Rs 625 ($9.10–$14), dinner Rs 275–Rs 1,100 ($6.30–$25). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:45pm and 7–11:45pm.

Karavalli INDIAN For more than a decade, this indoor-outdoor restaurant has been wowing guests and winning awards. Sit in the open-air courtyard under the huge canopy of a raintree on wrought-iron garden chairs, or inside, in what resembles a Mangalorean home, with high ceilings, antique furniture, and walls adorned with old seafarer maps and a grandfather clock. For seafood lovers, Karavalli is a godsend, with Goan baby lobster, Mangalorean black pomfret, and pearlspot caught off the shores

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Swinging in the Hip City of Bangalore Spend at least an hour schmoozing on beanbags at The Park hotel’s i-BAR —one of Bangalore’s most happening spots—or dancing to house and trance on the small dance floor, where DJ Sasha mixes up a swinging party (Rs 500/$11 entry). Alternatively, head for 13th Floor (Ivory Tower Hotel; M.G. Rd.; 7–11pm), a sexy 120-seater rooftop cocktail lounge where you get a large dose of the Bangalore skyline while you sip on cocktails named after weapons. Liquor Café is a groovy lounge bar on the covered rooftop of a building that houses several smart restaurants (including Art—see “Where to Dine,” above); it attracts a hip young crowd who come for the funky, laid-back acid lounge music (Cosmo Village, Magrath Rd.; & 080/2509-1160 or 080/5112-7373; daily 7–11pm). Named for the Greek god of sleep, Hypnos is a cocktail lounge that does anything but, even in the Moroccan Square, where you can smoke shishas (hookahs) filled with apple, strawberry, or grape tobacco while tucking into Lebanese and Mediterranean fusion cuisine (Gem Plaza, Infantry Rd.; & 080/5111-3361 through -3364; Rs 500/$11 entry fee). Single men are technically unwelcome at 1912—The Living Room (previously 180 proof), where the Mafioso-style management ensures that the industrial-chic atmosphere is enhanced by the highest-profile Bangalorean crowd. Housed in a lovely stone building that looks like a historic monument, this is probably the place in Bangalore to strut your stuff on the dance floor: Three locally based DJs run the show with a blend of rock, hip-hop, and from 8:30pm on, trance music, occasionally joined by record-spinners from Mumbai, San Francisco, and the U.K. (40 St. Marks Rd.; & 080/2299-7290; daily 7–11:30pm). Insomnia (Rs 400/$9.10 per couple, Rs 600/$14 single males on Fri and Sat; other days free entry) is a pleasant split-level club with a bar upstairs and a cozy DJ-operated dance floor below (Le Meridien, & 080/ 2226-2233). Also in Le Meridien is F-Bar and Lounge, a franchise of the Fashion TV bar chain, with screens beaming Fashion TV while fashionistas nibble Japanese and Korean starters or dance to the music of DJ Jasmeet; the bar occasionally hosts live fashion shows. Another see-and-be-seen nightclub is Spinn, located in a 1940s Art Deco bungalow (80 3rd Cross, Residency Rd.; & 080/2558-1555) where hip-hop, funk, and house music rule. NASA (1/A Church St.; & 080/2558-6512) is worth a giggle: Staff are decked out in pilot outfits, and the interior is like the inside of a sci-fi space module; the bar is called the “Fuel Tank” and the loo is known as the “Humanoid Disposal” area. It’s good for an afternoon pint, but happy hours draw massive crowds. For loud rock music and a crowd that likes to sing along, Purple Haze (M.G. Rd., near Richmond Circle; & 080/2221-3758) is one of Bangalore’s more popular nightclubs. The Oberoi Hotel’s smart Polo Club combines deep leather sofas with the ubiquitous TV sports entertainment. Cigar aficionados should head for the Jockey Club (& 080/5660-4444) at the Taj Residency, popular with expats; while Dublin, the watering hole at the ITC Windsor Sheraton (& 080/2226-9898), serves up—yep, you guessed right—an Irish pub vibe.

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of Cochin in Kerala. The west coast also provides fresh bekti, shrimp, tiger prawns, scampi, squid, sear, sole, and ladyfish, while the varying cuisines of India’s southern coastal regions provide inspiration for dishes originally found in home kitchens. Chef Thimmaiah, who has been here since 1990, drums up sensational starters like the Coorg fried chicken, which you can follow with dry Malabar-style tiger prawns or Kane fry (ladyfish). If you’ve any room left for the main course, try the Alleppey fish curry or the Karavalli mutton curry with appams (savory rice-batter pancakes). Taj Gateway Hotel, 66 Residency Rd. & 080/5660-4545. Main courses Rs 115–Rs 800 ($2.65–$18.20); lunch thali Rs 410–Rs 485 ($9.30–$11.10). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30–11:45pm.

Koshy’s Restaurant and the Jewel Box Moments INDIAN/CONTINENTAL Easily the most popular eating and meeting place on M.G. Road, this 50-year-old restaurant has changed little over the years. Food is varied, but it’s more or less beside the point; you come here for the energetic buzz—it’s a favorite gathering spot and has a distinct local flavor, attracting the coffeehouse intellectual and budding artist alike. You won’t be bothered at all if you prefer to linger endlessly over a beer (Rs 100/$2.30) and your book. Those who would rather steer clear of the action can sit in the quieter, but rather bland, air-conditioned section, the Jewel Box. 39 St. Mark’s Rd., Bangalore 560 001. & 080/2221-3793 or -5030. Average meal Rs 350 ($8). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 7–11pm.

Rejuvenation City: Tip-Top Spas Prompted by the emergence of an overstressed, well-heeled workforce, Bangalore has a number of well-known luxury and medical spas. Besides The Spa at Leela Palace Kempinski (& 080/2521-1234) in the city, two luxury spas lie about an hour outside Bangalore. The Golden Palms Spa (& 080/23712222), owned by Bollywood director Sanjay Khan, is part of an upmarket resort that not only provides routine spa treatments, but is the spot for discreet cosmetic surgery and anti-aging treatments. Angsana Oasis Spa and Resort (& 080/2846-8893; www.angsana.com) offers spa packages from 205€ ($255) double for 2 nights (includes accommodations, breakfasts, and one traditional Thai massage). The attitude toward pampering is more laidback. Neither of these spas will restrict your diet or ban smoking or alcohol; in contrast, Soukya International Holistic Health Centre (in Whitefield, 30 min. from Bangalore; & 080/2794-5001 through -5004; www.soukya.com) is a medical spa that focuses on therapeutic and complementary therapies. Run by Dr Isaac Mathai, his nutritionist wife Suja, and a battery of experts, this is a nonsmoking, alcohol- and meat-free spa where everything is low fat, low salt, low spice, and organic. The focus is on individually created “holistic wellness programs” (from Hawaiian hot stone to specialized Ayurvedic treatments) that strengthen the body’s immune system, including those belonging to some rather famous people, like Fergie, Princess of York; Archbishop Desmond Tutu; and healthy-living guru Andrew Weil. Rates start at Rs 6,300 ($144) per day—this includes accommodations, meals, and medical evaluation and assessment but not treatments.

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Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) Moments SOUTH INDIAN VEGETARIAN Possibly the essential Bangalore eating experience, this is an excellent spot to sample the chaos of a traditional “tiffin” room, where scores of locals rush in for the Indian version of fast food, served since 1924 with attitude and gusto from shiny silver buckets by notoriously surly waiters in white. If you’re here during lunch, order a thali and eat with your fingers from a silver tray onto which various authentic South Indian concoctions are heaped and continuously replenished. You sit in rather indecorous surroundings (the current venue was built in 1949, and hasn’t changed at all in over 40 years) on brown plastic chairs at marble-top tables with orange steel legs; grab a table upstairs. Adjacent, the MTR Store sells a wide range of South Indian treats and delicacies, including popular sweets (like badam halwa and ladu) and ready-to-eat savories. 14 Lal Bagh Rd. & 080/2222-0022. Typical meal Rs 75 ($1.70); individual items Rs 5–Rs 20 (10¢–45¢). No credit cards. Tues–Sun 6:30am–noon, 12:30–2:30pm, and 7:30–9pm.

SHOPPING You’ll find the city’s major shopping centers along and around M.G. Road, Commercial Street, and Brigade Road. M.G. Road is where you’ll find the fixed-price touristorientated (no bargains or bargaining) Cauvery Arts and Crafts Emporium, Central Cottage Industries Emporium, and Karnataka State Silk Industries Emporium. Fabulous silks and home textiles, as well as contemporary silverware from Neemrana and traditional silver jewelry from Amrapali and Jaipur, are some of the highlights available in Shop Ananya, located next to the Hotel Sarovar at 9/1 Dhondusa Annexe, Richmond Circle (& 080/2299-8922). For antiques and other collectibles in bronze, stone, teak, and silver, call on Natesan’s Antiqarts (76 M.G. Rd.; & 080/ 2558-8344 or -7427). Pick up beautiful ethnic home accessories, rugs, and other gifts at The Bombay Store (99 EGK Prestige, M.G. Rd.; & 080/2532-0014 or -0015). With four levels of saris and salwar kameez (for women) and sherwanis (for men), and a nonstop clientele, you can understand why staff at Deepam Silk International insist that there is “nowhere else in the whole world” better to shop for silk garments (67 Bluemoon Complex, M.G. Rd.; & 080/2558-8760). Cinnamon Some of India’s top designers are represented in this cool, stylish boutique, which often hosts small exhibitions. Abraham and Thakore, considered the country’s top design duo, have a range here, and this is the only place in India outside Jaipur that you’ll find clothing by Brigette Singh. Bangalorean designer Jason Cheriyan refuses to sell his work anywhere else. Hours are Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 8pm, Sunday noon to 8pm. 11 Walton Rd., off Lavelle Rd. & 080/2222-9794.

CULTURAL ACTIVITIES Check the local dailies for information about cultural events. Besides art exhibitions and traditional dance and music performances, Bangalore draws major international artists, including pop and rock stars. The violin-shaped auditorium known as Chowdaiah Memorial Hall (Gayathri Devi Park Extension, Vyalikaval; & 080/2344-5810) hosts regular classical music performances, as well as film, dance, and drama. Plays are regularly staged at Rabindra Kalakshetra (Jayachamarachendra Rd.; & 080/2224-1325 or 080/26646158), where you can also catch occasional art exhibitions. Numerous art galleries around the city host contemporary Indian art and other exhibitions. Venkatappa Art Gallery, attached to the Government Museum (Kasturba Rd.; & 080/2286-4483;

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Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Rs 10/25¢), displays more than 600 paintings year-round. Chitrakala Parishat (Art Complex, Kumara Krupa Rd.; & 080/2226-1816) has a varied collection of traditional paintings, leather puppets, and artifacts from all over Karnataka. Visit its various art studios and gallery spaces, the open-air theater, and (in particular) the Roerich and Kejriwal galleries. For high-end art, check out Gallerie Zen (121 Dickenson Rd.; & 080/2559-8793 or 080/2558-1577; www.zenmrl.net; by appointment only). Nrityagram Dance Village (along the Bangalore-Pune Hwy., 35km/22 miles from Bangalore) is a renowned center for Indian dance training. Performances feature students as well as established artists. Organized tours of the facility include lecture-demonstrations designed to introduce you to Indian culture, life philosophy, and both kathak and odissi dance forms (& 080/2846-6313; Sept–May, Tues–Sat 10am–5:30pm, dance classes 10:30am–1pm; tours Rs 20/45¢ per person, advance bookings essential). A through-the-night dance and music festival is held in February; it attracts almost 30,000 spectators, so decent seating is at a premium.

2 Mysore £ 140km (87 miles) SW of Bangalore; 473km (293 miles) N of Chennai; 1,177km (730 miles) SE of Mumbai

A city of palatial buildings and tree-lined boulevards, laid-back Mysore is possessed of a quaint charm, a dignified hangover from the days when it was the capital of a rich princely state. It remains a popular destination for travelers, particularly for its Maharajah’s Palace. Built over a period of 15 years at the turn of the 20th century at a cost of over Rs 4 million, this astonishing Indo-Saracenic palace is testament to the affluence of one of India’s notably wealthy ruling families. During the 10-day Dussehra Festival, held here during the first half of October, the entire city is dressed up in show-off style; each night Mysore Palace is lit up by 80,000 bulbs, and on the final evening of festivities, the Maharajah himself leads one of the country’s most spectacular processions through the city streets. But Mysore is also an ideal base from which to explore the temples known as the “Jewel Boxes” of Hoysala architecture, which lie some 3 hours north, as well as the nearby Jain pilgrimage site at Sravanabelgola.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & AWAY Trains from Bangalore (3 hr.) and Hassan (for Hoysala heartland; 2–3 hr.) pull in regularly at the railway station (& 131 or 0821/ 242-2103), situated at the intersection of Jhansi Laxmi Bai Road and Irwin Road. For Rajiv Gandhi National Park, your best option is to hire a car. VISITOR INFORMATION For information, visit the Karnataka Tourist Office (Mayura Yatri Niwas, JLB Rd., near railway station; & 0821/242-3652; daily 7am–9pm). GETTING AROUND Negotiate taxi prices in advance, or hire a vehicle for the day. Auto-rickshaws are cheap and plentiful; you can either insist that the driver use his meter or fix a price upfront; the latter is likely to get you to your destination quicker (see chapter 2). GUIDED TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS Operating since 1976, Seagull Travels (8 Best Western Ramanashree Hotel Complex, Bangalore–Niligiri Rd.; & 0821/ 252-9732, -0535, or 0821/243-5095; fax 0821/252-0549; www.seagulltravels.com; daily 9:30am–8:30pm) handles a wide range of travel needs, including ticketing, taxi

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arrangements, and individually packaged tours (although prices can fluctuate arbitrarily). Seagull is Mysore’s only agent for the government’s popular Jungle Lodges and Resorts, including the popular Kabini River Lodge (see below). Another local travel agent is Skyway International Travels (no. 3704/4, Jansi Laxmibai Rd.; & 0821/ 244-4444; fax 0821/242-6000; [emailprotected]; www.skywaytour.com). Don’t pay for any taxi or vehicle without first checking its condition. You can organize a car through your hotel travel desk, but it’s likely to be more expensive.

WHAT TO SEE & DO Besides Mysore’s most famous palace, the Maharajah’s Palace, and Keshava Temple, you might want to visit Jagan Mohan Palace (west of Mysore Palace, Dewan’s Rd.; daily 8:30am–5pm; Rs 10/25¢), which once served as the royal auditorium. The building now exhibits South India’s oddest assortment of kitsch memorabilia from the massive private collection of the Wodeyars. Southeast of downtown (3km/2 miles away), Chamundi Hill is where you can join throngs of huffing-puffing pilgrims, some of who recite or read Hindu verses along the way. Stop first at the Shiva Temple, where devotees meander around the statue in a clockwise direction while a friendly priest dishes out sacred water and dollops of vermilion paste. The summit of the hill is very active with pilgrims come to pay their respects to Durga. You can buy a darshan ticket from the computerized ticketing booth and join the queue for a peek at the deity inside Sri Chamundeswari Temple (3:30–6:30pm); or you can wander around the hilltop exploring smaller temples, many of which serve as bases for brightrobed grinning sadhus (holy persons) wanting to sell you a private photo opportunity. Finally, no trip to Mysore is complete without getting lost in the dizzying scents of jasmine, musk, sandalwood, frangipani, and incense as you wander through the city’s vibrant market. Mysore is also famous for its silk and sandalwood oil, and you can witness the production of both by taking a side trip to Vidyaranyapuram, 15 minutes away. For an escorted tour of the Government Silk Weaving Factory, call & 0821/ 248-1803 (daily 11:30am–2:30pm); the Government Sandal Oil Factory is right next door (daily 11:30am–4pm). Maharajah’s Palace (Amba Vilas) Generally considered the palace in South India, this was designed by Henry Irving at the turn of the 20th century; 15 years of nonstop construction produced a fabulous domed, arched, colonnaded, and turreted structure with lavish interiors—teak ceilings, carved marble handrails, gilded pillared halls, ivory deities, rococo lamp stands, Italian crystal chandeliers, stainedglass windows, miles of white marble floors, and ceilings made from stained glass brought all the way from Glasgow. You’ll be hard-pressed to find an undecorated section of wall or ceiling; frescoes, paintings, statues, and delicate relief carvings recall religious as well as secular scenes, including glorious state processions. Within the inner courtyards, growling stone felines guard stairways, while elsewhere, elaborately carved rosewood doors mark the entrances of yet more splendid halls and chambers. Paintings by Raja Ravi Varma, golden chariots, gilt-framed mirrors, stately family portraits (including a wax sculpture of the Maharajah), and all manner of ornate fantasy objects add to the spectacle of abundant wealth. Overlooking the parade grounds, brought to life during the Dussehra Festival (Sept or Oct), a terraced grandstand pavilion is covered by a heavily decorated and frescoed ceiling, while huge, decaying chandeliers dangle precariously over the seating. Don’t bother to purchase an additional ticket for the disappointing Maharajah’s Residential Palace, where a sad display of items gathers dust.

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Ramvilas Rd., Mizra Rd., and Purandara Rd. & 0821/242-2620. Admission: Amber Vilas Rs 20 (45¢); Residential Palace Rs 20 (45¢). Daily 10:30am–5:30pm.

Keshava Temple Situated 38km (25 miles) from Mysore in the small village of Somnathpur, this is perhaps the best-preserved and most complete Hoysala monument in existence. Also referred to as Chennakeshava Temple, this beautiful religious monument is presided over by Vijayanarayana, one of the 24 incarnations of Vishnu. Built as early as 1268, it is constructed entirely of soapstone and rests on a raised plinth; typical of Hoysala temples, it has a star-shaped ground plan and exquisitely sculpted interiors. It’s really worth exploring in detail; you may have to urge or bribe the caretaker to crank up the generator so that you have enough light to properly observe the three shrines in the temple. Somnathpur is serene and remote, and the lawns around the monument are ideal for picnicking—ask your hotel for a packed lunch. Somnathpur is 38km (24 miles) east of Mysore. Admission Rs 100 ($2.30). Daily 8am–5:30pm.

WHERE TO STAY Mysore has plenty of very basic places to stay; walk around Gandhi Square and you can take your pick. Hotel Dasaprakash, the local institution, is recommended. It has clean, modest rooms with running hot water 5 to 10am (& 0821/244-2444; from Rs 355/$8 double). If you’re after a taste of history, stay a bit out of the main town at Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel (T. Narsipur Rd.; & 0821/247-0470 through -0476). Built in 1921 by the Maharajah of Mysore to accommodate the visiting Viceroy, this huge, three-level heritage property is a testament to faded extravagance. Sadly, the magnificent building is badly in need of upkeep, and service leaves much to be desired. The public areas are lavish and lovely, though, with marble stairways, molded plasterwork, quaint seating alcoves, chunky pillars, and majestic stained-glass ceiling domes. Modern amenities have not kept pace with the high prices of the rooms, but even so, the suites are enchanting, with four-poster beds and French windows that open onto verandas. You’ll need to fork out the dough for a Victorian-styled suite ($230–$750) in the original palace building, but don’t bother staying in a standard room ($160) situated in a wing added in 1980. The Green Hotel This award-winning hotel began as Chittaranjan Palace, built in the 1920s by Wodeyar IV as a retreat for his three sisters. Today it looks and feels pretty much how you would imagine the home of a royal family in decline would look, with lots of character. The hotel is owned by a charity that employs disadvantaged people on good wages and, true to its name, tries to be environmentally conscious. The palace proper has a motley assortment of antique furniture and colorful memorabilia that rivals other tourist distractions in town. Light filters through stained-glass windows, and the large, open public spaces are swathed in teak and brimming with old-world charm, despite the incessant noise from the main road alongside. This erstwhile princesses’ retreat also offers interesting lodging options. Choose one of the seven guest rooms in the original palace: The Princess’s Room is enormous, with antique furniture, blue Indian throws, and sheer curtains over narrow slit windows. For added color, try the Deluxe Bollywood Room, where the antique wooden headboards are decorated with brightly colored renditions of old Bollywood starlets on painted glass. Though all rooms are garden-facing, guest rooms in the New Wing (built when the palace became a film studio), while offering value, lack the historical flavor of the palace.

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Chittaranjan Palace, 2270 Vinoba Rd., Jayalamipuram, Mysore 570 012. & 0821/525-5001, -5002, or -5003. Fax 0821/251-6139. www.greenhotelindia.com. 31 units. New Wing: Rs 1,650—Rs 2,450 ($38–$55) double. Palace Rooms: Rs 3,950 ($90) Marigold, Rs 2,500 ($57) Writer, Rs 2,500 ($57) Small Bollywood. Palace suites: Rs 4,750 ($108) Maharani Suite, Rs 4,250 ($97) regular suite. Rs 575 ($13) extra bed. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; volleyball; croquet; boule; indoor games; travel services; green auto-rickshaw service; room service on request; laundry; doctor-on-call; library; TV room; Internet facilities in lounge.

WHERE TO DINE Visitors with a sweet tooth will get a kick out of the local specialty, Mysore pak (mysurpa), made from gram flour and liters of ghee (clarified butter). You’ll find a number of outlets at Devaraja Market. Try the famous Guru Sweet Mart (Sayaji Rao Rd.) for your sugar rush. Hotel Dasaprakash’s canteenlike restaurant Akshaya (Gandhi Sq.; & 0821/244-2444) serves simple, hygienic vegetarian fare, typical of the region, and a sumptuous thali that costs just Rs 45 ($1). Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel Restaurant ECLECTIC Once the ballroom of the Maharajah’s sumptuous guesthouse, the glorious baroque hall has an immensely high ceiling with domed skylights made of Belgian glass. Hindustani music, performed live at lunch and dinner, fills this pillared palatial space. Come here for a poke around the royal facilities, but don’t expect too much from the food: Even though you’re eating off delicate decorative china and silver thali platters, the cheap cutlery gives the game away. Thalis are enjoyable, however, and quite filling. Also worth trying are the Mangalore fish curry and lassoni malai tikka, chicken in a garlic-flavored masala prepared in the tandoor oven, and best enjoyed with naan or roti. If you’re more interested in a snack, the menu includes items such as Maharajah club sandwiches and hamburgers. Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel, T. Narsipur Rd. & 0821/247-0470 through -0476. Reservations recommended. Main courses Rs 100–Rs 550 ($2.30–$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:45pm and 8–11pm.

Le Olive Garden At this restaurant, situFinds NORTH INDIAN/ECLECTIC ated in a peaceful neighborhood away from central Mysore, you dine alfresco in a leafy garden with geese and wind chimes for company. Arranged on landscaped terracing, the dining area is surrounded by water and reached by tiny bridges. Most of the dishes are Indian, with a good range of kebabs on offer, but you can also order Chinese or choose from a small selection of Continental dishes. Although it’s not on the menu, ask for rogan gosht, made with slightly fatty mutton and cooked in rich masala gravy made with cashew nuts. Chamappaji Rd., opposite Horse Park, Nazarbad. & 0821/244-8762. Main courses Rs 60–Rs 250 ($1.35–$5.70). MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3:30pm and 7–11:30pm.

VISITING RAJIV GANDHI NATIONAL PARK Originally the private property of the Maharajah of Mysore, Karnataka’s most popular elephant hangout became a national park in 1955, 3 years after the princely state of Mysore was absorbed into post-colonial India. Situated 95km (59 miles) southwest of Mysore, and spread over 511 sq. km (195 sq. miles) filled with teak, rosewood, sandal, and silver oak trees, Rajiv Gandhi National Park is also generously populated by dhole (wild dogs), gaur (Indian bison), antelope, sloth bears, panthers, otters, crocodiles, cobras, pythons, falcons, eagles, and great Indian horned owls. Keep an eye peeled for tiny muntjac deer; they stand only .6m (2 ft.) tall and are crowned by finger-length antlers. The big draw, of course, are the tigers (between 60 and 65 tigers

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reside here), but sightings are subject to a great deal of luck—although when Goldie Hawn came here to shoot a documentary, she apparently spotted several. Ms. Hawn stayed at the popular Kabini River Lodge, the most practical place to be if you want to have access to the park without any organizational fuss. A charmingly rustic retreat some 6 hours by car from Bangalore (3 hr. from Mysore), Kabini is spread over 22 hectares (55 acres), incorporating lush forest and largely untamed vegetation, just the way a “jungle resort” should. Its centerpiece is the Maharajah’s original 18th-century hunting lodge. Accommodations with the best positions are the river-facing cottages. Expect small bathrooms, dated green sofas, and lumpy mattresses covered with charming Indian throws. Eyeball the skies for birds like hoopoes and drongos, tale part in a program of wildlife safaris, try a brief coracle (boat) trip, go for an elephant ride, and—of course—partake of the meals and tea laid out for you according to a precise schedule. The lodge was set up by Col. John Felix Wakefield, who at 90 still takes his meals on the terrace overlooking the river. A tiger hunter in his youth, now a celebrated sanctuary-tourism reformer, Wakefield can be a lively source of information about the region. Book a room at Kabini well in advance, and plan to arrive there at least an hour before the afternoon safari, which begins at 4:30pm (& 08228/26-4402 through -4405; head office in Bangalore & 080/2559-7021, -7024, or -7025; www. junglelodges.com; standard package 2 days, 1 night per person, $110; includes all meals, safaris, park entrance, and elephant and boat rides). For companies that offer the services of a car and driver for the 3-hour drive, see “Guided Tours & Travel Agents” under Mysore “Essentials,” above.

3 Exploring the Hoysala Heartland: Belur, Halebid & Sravanabelagola Halebid is 220km (136 miles) W of Bangalore; Belur is 14km (9 miles) SW of Halebid

The Hoysalas were a race of warriors who found time to allow their art to flourish despite regular military campaigns. What remains of this once-powerful dynasty are beautiful temples, usually commissioned to commemorate their victories or covenants made with their gods. Situated at the edge of the Western Ghats, the existing temples of the once-powerful cities of Belur and Halebid are often referred to as the “Jewel Boxes” of Hoysala architecture, and are comparable with the religious monuments of Khajuraho (in Madhya Pradesh) and Konark (in Orissa). The artists who created these compact, assiduously sculpted temples demonstrated enormous regard for the rules of proportion, and went to extreme lengths to ensure absolute spatial precision. Exterior temple walls are invariably covered in detailed sculpted decoration, while inside you will discover hand-lathe-turned filigreed pillars and figures with moveable jewelry, also carved from stone. The gods paraded at these temples are over 8 centuries old, yet continue to impress with the vigor with which they carry out their superhuman duties, slaying demons and moving mountains, while celestial maidens admire their reflections in eternally reflecting mirrors. In quite a different vein, the living pilgrimage center at Sravanabelagola is where you will find the world’s tallest monolithic sculpture. The statue of Gomateswara, a naked ascetic saint, is the object of one of the biggest Jain pilgrimages in the country—lacking any decoration whatsoever, yet awesome in its sheer grandeur. To see these highlights of Karnataka’s religious heritage, you have to veer off the main drag a little. Fortunately, if you’re pressed for time, it is possible to cover all three destinations with ease in a single day. Most visitors base their exploration of this region

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out of the dusty, dull town of Hassan, but the coffee-growing town of Chikmagalur, 25km (15 miles) from Belur, offers far more glowing surroundings, highlighted by the pleasant accommodations of a Taj Garden Retreat.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & AROUND

The most convenient way to see the Hoysala sights is to hire a car and driver in Mysore or even Bangalore. A more affordable option is to catch a train from Mysore to Hassan (3 hr. away), from where you can pick up a taxi for a full day of sightseeing. Hassan can also be reached overland from Mangalore (see “Traveling Via Mangalore,” below). If you need to hire a vehicle in Hassan, we recommend Mr. Altaf (& 94482-56479; or ask the manager at Hotel Southern Star to give him a call), who offers excellent rates. Also ask for Abdul Rafiek, an affable driver with masterful control over his ancient Ambassador. Extraordinarily, Abdul even uses his indicators. V I S I T O R I N F O R M AT I O N

Visit the friendly Regional Tourist Office (Vartha Bhavan, B. M. Rd.; & 08172/ 268862; 10am–5:30pm, closed Sun and 2nd Sat of the month) if you need to stock up on brochures. You can also deepen your knowledge at Hotel Mayura Velapuri’s Belur Tourist Information Centre (Temple Rd.; & 08177/22-2209; daily 9:30am–6:30pm). In Halebid, there’s a Tourist Help Desk (Mon–Sat 10am–5:30pm) at Hoysalesvara Temple. You can pick up ASI-certified guides outside each of the two main temples in Belur and Halebid.

BELUR Now a sleepy hamlet, Belur was the capital of the Hoysala kings at the height of their reign. The magnificent soapstone Temple of Lord Channakeshava (daily sunrise–sunset; free admission), built over a period of 103 years, was commissioned to commemorate the victory of Vishnuvardhana over the Cholas from Tamil Nadu; apparently, it was so admired by Belur’s iconoclastic Muslim invaders that they decided to leave it intact. Built on a star-shaped plan, the temple stands on a raised platform within a courtyard surrounded by an outer wall. After you survey the courtyard, approach the temple by climbing the short flight of steps. Despite its compact scale, the profusion of carved decoration is spectacular, the multicornered shape of the temple allowing maximum space for sculptures of Vishnu and a vast retinue of Hindu images. Covering the flat-roofed building are detailed representations of myriad themes—ranging from erotica to religious mythology, everyday events to episodes from the Ramayana— arranged in bands that wrap the entire exterior in delightful compositions. The temple itself is borne by almost 650 stone elephants. Don’t miss the various bracket figures, which are considered the highlight of Hoysala workmanship. Use a torch to study the temple interior, at the center of which is a pillar adorned with smaller versions of the temple’s 10,000 sculpted images. Belur is a living temple, and a silverplated image of Vishnu within the inner sanctum is still worshipped; puja (prayer) is performed at 9am and 7pm each day, and the inner sanctums are closed between 1 and 3pm and 5 and 6pm.

HALEBID Once known as Dwara Samudra, “the gateway to the sea,” Halebid usurped Belur’s position as the Hoysalan capital in the 12th century. Unfortunately, when the

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Muslim invaders arrived, Halebid failed to escape their wrath. Appropriately, its current name means “old city,” as it consists of only a dusty road and some well-crafted temples amid a lush landscape with the Western Ghats as a distant backdrop. Exquisitely sculpted Hoysalesvara Temple (sunrise–sunset; free admission; shoe-check Rs 1/2¢) is the largest of the Hoysala temples. Hoysalesvara actually consists of two distinct temples resting upon a star-shaped platform, both dedicated to Shiva. It has more complex and detailed carvings than those at Belur. You can discover the 20,000odd sculptures in and around the temple on your own, or enlist the services of a guide (who will approach you as you arrive at the monument; expect to pay around Rs 150/$3.40, but do include a tip). You can visit the on-site Archaeological Museum (Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm; Rs 2/4¢) to see more stone statues of Hindu gods, gathered from Halebid and its immediate environs. If you want more of the same, without the touristy vibe, head for Kedareshvara Temple, 300m (960 ft.) away and marked by its serene location. Also in Halebid are several Jain Bastis that allude to the religious tolerance of the Hoysala kings, who extended patronage to other faiths. Although lacking the immense carved decoration of the Hindu monuments, Parswanathasamy Temple (daily sunrise–sunset; free admission) enjoys a lovely lakeside location.

SRAVANABELAGOLA For members of the peace-loving, nonviolent Jain faith, this is one of the oldest and most important pilgrimage centers, famous for its colossal 18m (60-ft.) statue of Lord Gomateswara, said to be the tallest monolithic statue on earth, reached by climbing the 635 steps that lead to the hill’s summit. Naked and imposing, the statue is a symbolic representation of worldly renunciation. Commissioned in A.D. 981, the Statue of Gomateswara is a representation of Bahubali. Son of the first Jain Tirthankara, Bahubali renounced his kingdom and sought enlightenment by standing naked and motionless for an entire year while contemplating the meaning of life. Seen in detail on the legs of the statue, the creepers and plants twisting their way up his body are symbolic of his motionless mission of spiritual discovery. A special celebration is held here every 12 years, when the giant monolith is bathed with bucketfuls of milk and honey and other condiments. The next ceremony takes place in 2017.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE Accommodations close to the temples are limited and hardly the stuff of kings. You’ll find a number of government-run hotels in both Belur and Halebid; these have restaurants of questionable quality and extremely basic rooms. In Halebid, the tourism department’s Hotel Mayura Shanthala (Temple Rd.; & 08177/27-3224; doubles Rs 210–Rs 275/$4.75–$6.25) is within striking distance of a number of temples. Belur’s Hotel Mayura Velapuri (& 08177/222-209; doubles Rs 312/$7) is located just outside the temple entrance. Better to opt for Hotel Southern Star Hassan (& 08172/ 25-1816 or -1817; www.ushashriramhotels.com; doubles from Rs 1,495/$45), a relatively new and welcome addition to Hassan’s otherwise dismal accommodations scene. It offers pleasant service (including sightseeing advice) and safe dining. It’s certainly not luxury level, but guest rooms are comfortable and clean. Views from oddnumbered rooms are of a less built-up part of the town. Taj Garden Retreat, Chikmagalur Located just outside the small coffee-growing town of Chikmagalur, this hillside retreat—originally built as a government rest

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Traveling Via Mangalore

Once a seaport of some significance, Mangalore is an important center for the processing and export of Karnataka’s spices, coffee, and cashews. It is known as the bidi cigarette capital of the world. (The bidi, effectively a roll of dried tobacco leaf, is also known as the “pauper’s puff.” Apparently 90 people die every hour in India from tobacco-related cancer.) Its greatest significance for travelers is that it makes a convenient pit stop on the section of the Konkan Railway that runs between Goa and Kerala, and provides road access to Belur, Halebid, and Sravanabelgola, as well as Mysore. Taj Manjarun (& 0824/566-0420; www.tajhotels.com; doubles from $65) is the best hotel in Mangalore. Accommodations are comfortable, if not particularly luxurious. Suite no. 401 ($120) has the best views, taking in the river and the ocean. Staff will arrange trips to the beach and local temples, as well as tours of a cashew-nut factory or tours to see how Mangalore’s famous red-clay roof tiles are made.

house—is comfortable and idyllically remote, with sloping red-tile roofs echoing the style of the local colonial Malnad plantation homes. Reserve one of the cottages (only $10 more); these have high-pitched ceilings, polished floors, two double beds, and large balconies with scenic views. (Reserve no. 119 for an especially large balcony.) The attached bathrooms are spacious but have showers only. Visits to nearby coffee plantations set off Monday to Saturday at 3:30pm. Taj has also opened a new Ayurvedic massage center, so you can kick back and allow yourself to be stroked into good health. K. M. Rd., opposite Pavitravana Jyothinagar Post, Chikmagalur. & 08262/220202 or -220404. Fax 08262/220222. www.tajhotels.com. 29 units. $80 standard double, $90 standard pool-view double; $100 cottage. $20 extra bed. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; pool table; table tennis; cycling; travel assistance; car hire; currency exchange; fax service; room service 7:30am–10:30pm; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, tea- and coffee-making facilities.

4 Hampi & the Ruined City of Vijayanagar £ Hampi is 460km (285 miles) NW of Bangalore; 13km (8 miles) E of Hospet

The surreal, boulder-strewn landscape of Karnataka’s hinterland is the backdrop to the largest complex of ruins in India. Hampi, capital of one of India’s most formidable empires, the powerful Vijayanagara—whose rule stretched from the Arabian Sea to the Indian Ocean—was home to a population of half a million, and protected by more than a million soldiers. Set in a vast valley sprawling from the banks of the Tungabhadra River, the splendid “City of Victory”—where even the king’s horses were adorned in jewels—is now a ghost city with numerous temples, fortification ramparts, stables, royal apartments, and palaces, popular with determined sightseers and trance and rave party disciples. Long popular with Bollywood as a shooting location, Hampi is also where scenes from the 2005 Jackie Chan thriller The Myth were shot. Hampi may be a little difficult to get to, but this remoteness is to a large extent its charm. You can easily enjoy 2 or 3 days in this serene atmosphere, particularly if you’ve booked at

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Hampi’s Boulders (see “Where to Stay,” below), a comfortable resort within striking distance of the ruins.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE The overnight Hampi Express leaves Bangalore daily at 10:05pm, arriving in unremarkable Hospet, the nearest town, at 7:40am. From Hyderabad, the Rayalseema Express departs at 5:25pm and arrives early the following morning, at 5:10am. Hampi is 15km (9 miles) away. Taxis charge around Rs 300 ($6.85) for the one-way trip; be sure to negotiate. Hampi is also connected to Goa by an overnight bus service. VISITOR INFORMATION If you reserve lodging at Hampi’s Boulders (see “Where to Stay,” below), you’ll have no better source of information than your host, Bobby. In Hampi Bazaar, the unusually helpful staff at the government-run tourist office (& 08394/241-339; daily 8am–1:30pm Apr–May; daily 10am–1:30pm and 2:15–5:30pm June–Mar) can provide information and organize coach bookings (not recommended) and English-speaking guides. At Hotel Malligi (see “Where to Stay,” below), you can hire an audioguide, featuring Bollywood voices, for around Rs 50 ($1.15). In Hampi, you can pick up information and guides from the information office (& 08394/241-339) on Bazaar Street. GETTING AROUND By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw Hampi’s ruins cover 39 sq. km (15 sq. miles), and should be explored on wheels. Bicycles (for rent in Hampi Bazaar) are fine for the energetic, but only in winter. Taxis (around Rs 800/$18 for a full day, without air-conditioning) or even auto-rickshaws (count on Rs 350–Rs 400/$8–$9.10) are better if you’d rather not deal with maps, heat, and dirt tracks. Do, however, get out on foot whenever you can.

EXPLORING THE RUINED CITY OF VIJAYANAGARA For anyone with dreams of Indiana Jones–style adventuring, the Hampi ruins provide the perfect setting—an ancient city with isolated ruins scattered among impossibly balanced wind-smoothed boulders and immense stretches of verdant landscape. Various excavations have uncovered evidence to suggest that Vijayanagara was occupied as long ago as the 3rd-century-B.C. Mauryan era. During early medieval times, armies were regularly dispatched to the Deccan by the Delhi Sultanate as part of its campaign to establish an empire that would encompass the whole of India. During one such campaign in the early 14th century, the invading forces captured Harihara and Bukka, two princes of Warangal, and took them to Delhi, where they fell in with the Sultanate. This allegiance eventually saw Harihara being crowned king of the region that is today known as Hampi. In celebration, Harihara lay the foundations of Vijayanagara, his new capital, on the southern banks of the Tungabhadra. His brother, Bukka, succeeded him 20 years later and ensured widespread support by issuing an edict that granted all religions equal protection. The monarchs who followed extended patronage to all manner of artists, poets, philosophers, and academics, effectively making Vijayanagara a center of learning that, in its grandeur, captivated visitors from as far away as Arabia, Portugal, and Italy. The kingdom reached its zenith during the reign of Krishna Deva Raya (1509–29), when international trade flourished under progressive commercial practices and foreign trade agreements. Early accounts of the city tell of its massive fortifications, broad boulevards, grand gateways, efficient irrigation systems, and splendid civic amenities.

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The kingdom of Vijayanagara fell in 1565 when five allied Deccan sultans laid siege to the city, which they then apparently ransacked—their soldiers looting, killing, and destroying at will. While some of the individual ruins can only be visited upon purchase of a ticket, most of Hampi is a veritable free-for-all, with tame security in the form of a handful of guards at the major monuments. This means that you can mix and match your itinerary as you see fit, moving between the different locations in a taxi or—if you’re up for it—on a bicycle. Pick up information or engage the services of an official guide from the government tourist office in Hampi. You can see Hampi’s highlights in a morning if you set out early enough. However, it’s spread over a vast area, and exploring can be quite exhausting, particularly in the midday heat—don’t overdo it, or even the most impressive monuments begin to look like more of the same. Hampi Bazaar is a broad, dusty boulevard lined with stalls and restaurants. It leads to the entrance of Virupaksha Temple , which predates the Vijayanagara kingdom yet remains a center of living Hindu faith (even though Hindu idols have been removed from the surrounding temples). Virupaksha’s towering goparum is lavishly sculpted and rises several stories; within its courtyards, monkeys and children careen around ancient pillars, while a sad-faced temple elephant takes tips for much-rehearsed blessings granted with her trunk. In the far right corner of the complex, tucked within a chamber, look for the shadow of the main goparum, which falls—miraculously, it would seem—as an inverted image on the temple wall, created by light passing through a small window. South of Virupaksha Temple is a temple housing a massive Shiva lingam (phallic symbol) standing in a pool of water. Carved from a single rock, the lingam is adjacent to a fantastic monolithic statue of Narasimha , the man-lion avatar of Vishnu. Although partially damaged, the one-piece carving dating to the first half of the 16th century is one of the finest sculptures at Hampi. Some distance from the bazaar, on a high elevation, is spectacular Vitthala Temple , dedicated to an incarnation of Vishnu, and one of the most fabulous and famous of Hampi’s monuments. One of Hinduism’s most enduring images, an ornate stone chariot , is found here. With solid stone wheels that can turn on their axles, the chariot faces a shaded dance hall where ancient musical dramas were once played out and from where you can now enjoy panoramic views of Vijayanagara. The pillars of the temple are commonly referred to as “musical pillars,” each one producing a different note when tapped. Nearby, the King’s Balance was once a scale-like instrument used to measure out grain or even gold against the weight of the king. The weighed item was then given to the priests (or to the poor, depending on your guide’s story). The royal enclosure incorporates the ruined palaces where the Vijayanagara kings would have lived and held court. Not much survives, but you can still visit Hazara Rama Temple, where the royals went to worship, a small stepped tank, and Mahanavami Dibba, a platform where performances and entertainments were held. On the outskirts of the royal complex, you need to buy a ticket to see the zenana enclosure, where the two-story Indo-Saracenic pavilion known as Kamala (Lotus) Mahal features massive pillars, delicately punctuated arches, and fine stucco ornamentation; its unusual design blends elements of Muslim and Hindu architecture. Within the same enclosure are quarters believed to have been used by Hampi’s Amazonian female guards, described by several Portuguese travelers. Just outside the enclosure are the superb Elephant Stables .

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13km (8 miles) east of Hospet, Belary District. Guides can be hired through the government tourist office in Hampi Bazaar for Rs 300 ($6.85) half-day and Rs 500 ($11) full day. Entrance to Virupaksha Temple Rs 2 (4¢); 6am–12:30pm and 2–8pm. Entrance to both Lotus Mahal and Elephant Stables $5.

WHERE TO STAY Hampi’s Boulders The name says it all: This resort, established and run by the enterprising proprietor Bobby Vallabhchandra and his cousin Vikram, is set in and among the enormous natural boulders that define Karnataka’s splendid landscape. Private, remote, and immersed in nature, Boulders resides alongside the Tungabhadra River on a 16-hectare (40-acre) spread, amid bamboo trees, coconut groves, mango trees, coffee plantations, and the namesake rocks. It’s a mere 6km (4 miles) from Hampi, reached by crossing the river in a coracle (small boat) after a pleasant halfhour walk. Nearby, in the 4,800-hectare (12,000-acre) animal sanctuary, you can spot wolves, wild dogs, panthers, hyenas, foxes, jackals, sloth bears, and crocodiles. Accommodations in the Executive Cottage are top-notch; living rock boulders bulge through the walls, and the entire structure feels like a miniature castle (where, in the huge bathroom, the “throne” allows the occupant to gaze onto the river). There’s also a gorgeous veranda and a rooftop viewing-platform. Guest cottages are pleasantly furnished, with attached bathrooms and private patios; the floors are marble and the ambience and furniture simple, but they’re still far better than anything else near Hampi, and the setting is unmatched. Meals are served in a semi-exposed circular granite-walled thatched-roof dining area where there’s no menu, but five-course meals are whipped up according to your mood. Narayanpet, Bandi Harlapur–P.O., Via Munirabad-R-S, Koppal District and TQ. & 08539/265939, 0934/260-2245, or 94480-34202. 11 units. Rs 2,500–Rs 3,500 ($57–$80) standard non-A/C double, Rs 3,500–Rs 4,500 ($80–$112) standard A/C double, Rs 9,000 ($205) executive double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; play area; guided tours and safaris; fishing; beach volleyball; river rafting; birding; shop; laundry; doctor-on-call.

Long-standing base for visitors to Hampi, this campus of guest Value rooms, restaurants, and modest tourist facilities began as a small retiring house for medical reps supplying Hospet’s first pharmacy, and today offers a wide range of accommodations. The complex, which at press time was being expanded to include 40 new rooms, is something of a regional institution and, most importantly, has a pool, essential after a grueling day of sightseeing under the pounding sun. Guest rooms are generally comfortable—those in the “super luxury” category are clean, with tiled floors, wood-paneled walls, and ’80s fittings and furniture in shades of brown. At just $5 more, executive suites are far more attractive, in shades of gray and blue, with large bathrooms with tubs and private balconies. Bollywood stars shooting films in the area, however, book only the Honeymoon Suite, where a ceiling mirror hovers over the circular bed. Budget rooms are ridiculously cheap, considering the amenities offered by the hotel, though they don’t offer much in the way of comfort or taste.

Hotel Malligi

6/143 J. N. Rd., P. B. no. 1, Hospet 583 201. & 08394/228-101. Fax 08394/227-038. [emailprotected]. 140 units. Rs 300–Rs 500 ($6.85–$11) non-A/C budget double, Rs 2,000 ($46) super luxury double; Rs 2,250 ($52) executive suite, Rs 2,500 ($57) honeymoon suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants, bar; pool; pool table; children’s play area; travel desk; car hire; limited business facilities; banqueting, conferencing; currency exchange; salon; gift shop; bookshop; room service 6am–10pm; massage; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, minibar (in most rooms).

WHERE TO DINE Mango Tree VEGETARIAN Although the food here is unremarkable, the rustic setting is undeniably welcoming. You sit under an enormous mango tree with a swing, in the backyard of a local family home, surrounded by boulders, acres of greenery, and

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kingfishers darting through the air. In front of you, the Tungabhadra River glides by. There’s no electricity; you dine sitting on the ground on straw mats at low portable tables set at terraced levels, while the proprietor, Krishna, and his family wait on you. Order a Mango Tree special thali served on a banana leaf; finish with a cup of chai and a pancake, and quench your thirst with a banana coconut lassi. 400m (1,280 ft.) downriver from the main Virupaksha temple tank (walk through the banana grove to get there), Hampi. & 94487-65213. Meals under Rs 150 ($3.40). No credit cards. Daily 7am–9:30pm.

Waves MULTI-CUISINE Generous portions and plenty of cold beer (not freely found in Hampi) make this a popular if anonymous place to get a wholesome meal while you’re in the Hampi area. It’s on a covered terrace overlooking Hotel Malligi’s pool and is open all day—which makes it a convenient spot to grab breakfast before you set out for the ruins. Stick to the Indian dishes, and be prepared for an invasion of mosquitoes once the sun goes down. Hotel Malligi, 6/143 J. N. Rd. P. B. no. 1, Hospet. & 08394/228101. Most mains Rs 50–Rs 150 ($1.15–$3.40). AE, MC, V. Daily 6am–midnight.

5 Side Trip to Northern Karnataka £ If you’d like to get off the principal tourist beat and discover the Deccan’s architectural treasures in less-chartered territory, set aside a few more days to explore the splendid remains of the erstwhile Chalukyan Empire and—tucked within one of the state’s northernmost corners—the Muslim city of Bijapur, filled with mosques, minarets, mausoleums, and palace ruins. The easiest way to get to these sites is to rent a car and driver in Hospet (get one through Hotel Malligi; Rs 6–Rs 8/12¢–18¢ per kilometer, plus Rs 150/$3.40 per night out), and drive to Badami, stopping at Aihole and Pattadakal either on your way in or out. It is quite possible to spend a long day traveling from Hospet or Hampi to all three Chalukya sites, including a stop at Mahakuteshwara and Mallikajuna temples en route. After that you can either proceed to Bijapur, or return to Hampi before nightfall. If you prefer something a little less hectic, however, overnight in Badami, and then continue your journey the following day. The best accommodations choice is Hotel Badami Court (& 08357/220-230 through -0233; reservations in Bangalore 080/2529-5451 or -5452). It’s located 2km (11⁄4 miles) from the town center and has a pool and decent air-conditioned rooms with TVs and bathtubs (ask for one of the garden-facing rooms, which are quieter) for around $62 (including breakfast).

BADAMI, AIHOLE & PATTADAKAL Around 4 hours by car from Hospet, the remote, modest town of Badami was established around A.D. 543 when it became the capital of the Chalukyas, one of the most powerful of the Deccan dynasties. Today its most significant attraction is the complex of cave temples (daily sunrise–sunset; $5) carved into the imposing horseshoeshaped red-sandstone cliff that once formed a natural fortification at the southern end of the town. Enter the pillared interiors and you’ll discover elaborate symbolic and mystical carvings of the highest quality (not to mention a few scampering monkeys). It’s worth hiring the services of a guide (around Rs 150/$3.40 for up to 3 hr.) to gain some understanding of the symbolism. Also worth exploring are the Bhutanatha temples, built over 4 centuries at a picturesque location at the edge of the Agastyatirtha water tank; and atop the hill, 7th-century Malegitti Shivalya Temple, unusually decorated with dwarfs, geese, and various geometric patterns. Time allowing, stop

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at the Archaeological Museum (& 08357/22-0157; Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm; Rs 2/4¢) to see well-preserved sculpted panels depicting the life of Krishna, and the Lajja Gauri sculpture, an extraordinary fertility cult symbol. Less than 30km (19 miles) from Badami, en route to Aihole, is the small settlement of Pattadakal and its UNESCO World Heritage–listed temple complex (daily sunrise–sunset; $10), where Chalukyan temple architecture reached its zenith in the 7th and 8th centuries. Some, like Papanatha Temple built around A.D. 680, are in the northern IndoAryan style, while others, like the main Virupaksha Temple built 80 years later, are in the South Indian Dravidian architectural style, with tiered pyramidal rather than conical roofs. A dance festival is held at Pattadakal each January. (Note that if you’re pressed for time, the Pattadakal stop can be skipped.) About 17km (11 miles) away, the riverbank village of Aihole is strewn with some 70 abandoned temples, built between A.D. 450 and 650 as architectural experiments by the early Chalukyan kings. Historians theorize that these obsessive rulers had a guild of architects, artists, and artisans working for them, and the variety of styles, including the Gupta (northern), incipient Dravidian, and elements of Buddhist architecture, reflect the various stages in the development of Chalukyan architecture. The chief attraction among these, fashioned along the lines of a Buddhist chaitya (prayer hall), is Durga Temple , with its magnificent circular colonnaded veranda studded with stunning sculptures and intricate carving. Contrast this with the Jain Meguti Temple situated atop a nearby hill—with an inscription putting its construction at A.D. 634, this was perhaps the last temple to be built in Aihole. The interiors aren’t lighted, so you should carry a flashlight—the detailing is well worth studying. In some temples, you’ll discover images of fierce Chalukyan warriors in action, while elsewhere, amorous couples engage in a different sort of action. Admission to the main complex of temples is free; entrance to Durga Temple is $2. Hours are daily sunrise to sunset.

BIJAPUR The walled city of Bijapur, in the far north of Karnataka, is often referred to as the “Agra of the South” because of its profusion of Muslim architecture. First founded during the reign of the Chalukyan dynasty, between the 10th and 11th centuries, Bijapur passed into Muslim rule and later into the hands of the Bahamani kings. When these rulers fell into decline, the city was taken over by its governor, Yusuf Adil Khan, the founder of the Adil Shahi dynasty, who established rule over the Deccan during the 16th and 17th centuries, with Bijapur as their capital. Muslim mausoleums, mosques, palaces, pavilions, and burkha-clad women will remind you that this is a city unlike any other in Karnataka. Head to the very helpful local tourism office (Station Rd.; & 08352/250-359; daily 8am–1:30pm Apr–May, daily 10am–1:30pm and 2:15–5:30pm June–Mar) to hire a guide and get assistance with sightseeing. Monuments are open from sunrise to sunset and entry is free except where listed. Within the fortified Citadel in the city center lie the remains of royal structures, including Anand Mahal (pleasure palace), and Saat Manzil. Outside Saat Manzil is beautiful Jal Mandir, or water pavilion, now dry, so you can admire its carvings and porticos. Not far away (near the tourist office) is incomplete Bara Kaman (“12 Arches”), the roofless tomb of Ali Adil Shah II—a wonderful piece of architecture comprising 12 arches—surrounded by a garden. Outside the Citadel’s walls, near the edge of the city, is Ibrahim Rouza , the gorgeously proportioned and heavily decorated mausoleum of Ibrahim Adil Shah II

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and his wife, Taj Sultana (admission $2; daily 6am–6pm; leave shoes outside). Ignore the garbage dump near the entrance and admire what is considered the most beautiful Muslim structure in the Deccan, featuring richly engraved walls and inscribed ornamental stone windows. Move on to Gol Gumbaz , the world’s secondlargest dome (after St. Peter’s in Rome), atop the mausoleum of 17th-century sultan Muhammad Adil Shah (Mahatma Gandhi Rd.; admission $5, video cameras 50¢; leave shoes outside; daily 6am–6pm). Renowned for its remarkable engineering and stereophonic acoustics, the Gol Gumbaz can get noisy as visitors test the echo effect created by the massive dome—multiple distinct echoes are said to be produced for each sound uttered in the whispering gallery upstairs. Most visitors don’t bother to whisper, however, which may leave you with an experience akin to an auditory hallucination. As is the case with the Taj, try to arrive as soon as the gates open for the most atmospheric visit. It’s worth scaling the 115 steps to reach the dome’s terrace for the excellent views of the formal gardens and tombs. Jami Masjid (free admission; daily 6am–6pm), close to Gol Gumbaz, is the city’s other major attraction. Also incomplete, this is the largest mosque in the region, dating back to A.D. 1576, when Ali Adil Shah I reigned. Consisting of a large dome and gorgeous white arcaded bays, this impressive mosque is spread over some 10,000 sq. m (107,639 sq. ft.). W H E R E T O S TAY & D I N E I N B I J A P U R Hotel Madhuvan International Bijapur’s top business hotel doesn’t offer the lux-

uries you might expect in cities catering to substantial numbers of Western visitors. Accommodations are comfortable enough, however, and some rooms have views of Gol Gumbaz. All bathrooms have tubs. You can organize your sightseeing through the hotel, and take meals in the relaxing garden restaurant (which serves only vegetarian food, by the way). Station Rd., Bijapur 586 104. & 08352/25-5571 through -5573. Fax 08352/25-6201. [emailprotected]. 36 units. $38 non-A/C double, $48 A/C double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; sightseeing; limited room service; laundry; doctor-on-call. In room: TV.

6 Hyderabad 490km (304 miles) N of Bangalore

One of the largest and wealthiest of India’s former princely states, Hyderabad built its fortune on the trade of pearls, gold, steel, fabric and, above all, diamonds, which some believe remain hidden beneath the foundations of Golconda Fort, precursor to the city some 10km (61⁄4 miles) away. Once the most famous diamond mining area in the world, Golconda was where the 108-carat Koh-i-Noor diamond (not to mention the Orloff, Regent, and Hope diamonds) was excavated. It was in fact Golconda’s legendary wealth that attracted the attention of the voracious Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, and with the aid of an inside agent he captured the fortress in 1678. Aurangzeb’s invasion marked the temporary decline of the city, but when the Mughal empire began to fade, the enterprising local viceroy, Asaf Jah I, promptly proclaimed himself Nizam (ruler) and established independent rule over the Deccan state. Under the notoriously opulent Nizams of the Asaf Jahi dynasty, their power cemented by an alliance forged in 1798 with the British East India Company, Hyderabad again became a major influence, and even contributed to the British military campaigns against the recalcitrant Tipu Sultan of Mysore.

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Fun Fact

Rich Man, Poor Man

The Nizams of Hyderabad may have been ousted from power two generations ago, but their decadent tastes have only now been curtailed. Mukkaram Jah, grandson of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, is said to have inherited the richest fortune in the world when his grandfather died in 1967. Thirty-eight years later, he lives in Turkey, all but bankrupt, his wealth—once said to have been worth around $750 million—squandered by a lavish lifestyle (including four expensive divorces) or stuck in banks around the world pending the settlement of innumerable legal disputes and claims from hundreds of family members (real and fake) determined to get their pound of flesh.

Hyderabad is more than 400 years old, but today the state capital of Andhra Pradesh is as famous for its burgeoning information technology and biotech research industries as it is for its minarets. Like Bangalore, this is one of India’s fastest-growing cities (with a projected population of 7.5 million by 2015), but unlike most Indian cities, Hyderabad is actually getting greener and cleaner. A substantial part of the city is the suburb of Cyberabad, where Microsoft and Oracle are but two major players in the development known as Hi-Tech City, responsible for the city’s economic upswing. Despite its newfound attractiveness as a business destination, the city remains steeped in history, and you’re just as likely to share the road with camels and bullock carts, and haggle alongside Muslim women covered from head to toe in black burkhas, as you are to converse with cellphone-wielding yuppies. There may not be much by way of specific sights to see in Hyderabad, but it’s a pleasantly manageable city with a vibrant culture, excellent-value luxury hotels, and a heavenly cuisine—perhaps the most enduring legacy of the decadent tastes and patronage of the cultured Nizams who first put the city on the map.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE & AWAY Hyderabad is pretty much slap-bang in the middle of very little else, so you’re best off flying in, not least because you’re unlikely to spend much time in Hyderabad proper (unless you plan to shop endlessly for pearls and eat yourself stupid). There are daily 2-hour flights from Delhi and 1-hour flights from Bangalore, Mumbai, Chennai, Kolkata, and Tirupati. Begumpet Airport (off Sardar Patel Rd.; & 140 for Indian Airlines inquiries, 142 for recorded flight information) is 8km (5 miles) north of the city; a taxi into town should cost Rs 150 ($3.40). Trains to and from Bangalore, Tirupati, Chennai, and Mumbai take at least 14 hours; book an overnight journey several days in advance. There are two main stations: Nampally (also known as Hyderabad Station) and Secunderabad, with most longer-distance trains arriving at the latter. Call & 1345 for specific information about outbound services. VISITOR INFORMATION For the lowdown on sights, tours, and events, visit Andhra Pradesh Travel & Tourism Development Corporation (& 040/23453036 or -0444; daily 7am–9pm), on the corner where Secretariat Road becomes Tank Bund. Avoid Andhra Pradesh Tourism right next door; the stench that hangs in the air from the fish market nearby competes with the staff ’s incompetence. The railway stations also have information counters. Channel 6 (Rs 15/35¢) is a monthly booklet listing a wealth of information about the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad.

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Hyderabad CityInfo (Rs 30/70¢) appears every 2 weeks and provides extensive information about hotels, restaurants, and current events. Primetime Prism (monthly; Rs 10/25¢) is filled with useful information about destinations all over the state. GETTING AROUND Hyderabad—actually comprising the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad—is spread over a vast area, and its few sights are scattered, so you’re best off renting a car and driver for a half- or full day. See SOTC (details below) for 24-hour car-hire service; or call Cosy Cabs (Karan Apartments, Begumpet; & 040/2776-2023). Note that the Old City is best explored on foot. GUIDED TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS The Andhra Pradesh Travel & Tourism Development Corporation (see “Visitor information,” above) runs full-day guided tours of the city (Rs 190/$4.25) and 3-day trips to Tirupati (Rs 1,050/$24 including a night’s accommodations). SOTC (3-5-874 Hyderguda Rd.; & 040/2323-3628 or -3629; Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 9:30am–1:30pm) can make all your travel, sightseeing, and car-hire arrangements. For alternate quotes, call Mercury Travels (& 040/ 5520-2200).

WHAT TO SEE & DO To see Hyderabad in a day, first drive to Qutb Shahi Tombs, where Hyderabad’s dynastic rulers are buried. Standing at the center of its own garden, Sultan Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah’s tomb is considered the most impressive. Built around the same time as his tomb, the mortuary bath (Hamaam)—where the dead were washed before being laid to rest—lies at the center of the enclosure. From here, consider walking to Golconda Fort; have your driver show you the route, which is about 2km (11⁄4 miles) and takes you through lively villages where you may even be invited in for a cup of chai and a chat. Allow at least an hour to explore the ruins of the historic citadel, arranging for your driver to pick you up at the entrance. Next, head to Charminar, a four-sided archway with soaring minarets. It was laid out by Mohammad Quli Qutb Shahi as the centerpiece of a great new city when Golconda’s disease epidemics forced him to move his seat to the banks of the Musi River. Explore the Old City quarter on foot, heading westward into Laad Bazaar , where double-story houses with tiny wooden shutters line narrow lanes. Wandering through these perpetually congested narrow lanes, you’ll encounter numerous burkha-wearing women scanning the stalls for bargains, and you’re likely to score a deal on anything from old saris, pearls, bidri (surface ornamentation) work, and silver and gold jewelry, to paper kites, henna, turmeric, and cheap china. Lac bangles, made from shellac encrusted with shiny, colorful stones, are a Hyderabadi specialty that you’ll find in huge quantities here. It’s also where the people of Hyderabad go to buy traditional bridal wear, or Khopdia Joda, consisting of a kurta pajama, choli, and ghunghat. When you’ve had your fill of the Old City, the interiors of Salar Jung Museum are a cool diversion, filled with an unprecedented assortment of kitschy collectibles and works of art (see below). Also interesting for antiques-lovers is Purani Haveli, near the Salar Jung Museum, where several Nizams were born and lived. When Nawab Mir Mehboob Ali Khan, the sixth Nizam, lived here, he had a 73m-long (240-ft.) wooden chamber built with 150 huge cupboards (probably the world’s largest walk-in closet), to stock his extensive collection of fine clothing and shoes (also called Nizam Jubilee Pavilion; daily 10am–6pm; Rs 40/90¢). India’s second-largest mosque, Mecca Masjid (Kishan Prasad Rd., near Charminar), is said to have been built with a few bricks brought from Mecca, and attracts

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thousands of worshippers during Namaaz, Friday prayers. It’s off-limits to non-Muslims during prayers, but visitors are welcome at other times. Leave your shoes with an attendant before making your way through a long room that houses the tombs of the Nizams of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. Non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall but can view proceedings through a screen. In Gulzar Hauz is Jami Masjid, Hyderabad’s oldest functioning mosque, dating back to 1597. Round off the day by watching the sun set over Cyberabad from white-marble Birla Mandir (Kalabahad Hill; daily 6am–noon and 3–9pm; free admission). Commissioned by the Birlas, India’s foremost industrial magnates, the main temple is dedicated to Lord Venkateshwara, and is pleasantly free of greedy “guides” and the like. Golconda Fort Sitting at an elevated height on the outskirts of Hyderabad, Golconda—seat of the Qutb Shahis—was once a magnificent citadel and center of the world diamond trade. The fort took 62 years to build, and when it fell to Aurangzeb in 1687, he tore the place apart looking for diamonds and gold. Left to the birds of prey that circle high above the once-daunting battlements, Golconda would have become a tranquil retreat were it not for its popularity with visitors, who noisily explore the ramparts of Hyderabad’s most illustrious attraction. That’s why it’s best if you visit it as soon as it opens, or around twilight (when it’s far cooler and the dimming evening sky sheds a mysterious aura over the stone ruins). Enclosing the graffiti-smeared remains of bazaars, homes, fields, barracks, armories, mosques, camel stables, Turkish baths, and water reservoirs, the battlements incorporate 87 bastions and extend some 5km (3 miles) in circumference. Four of the original eight gates are still in use; present-day visitors enter via the Bala Hissar gate—large teakwood doors with metal spikes designed to withstand charging elephants. Guides can assist by demonstrating the tremendous acoustics of the structure—a clap here is heard clearly when you are at the fort’s highest point, 1km (1⁄2 mile) away; this was once an invaluable security-cum-intercom system. The Royal Palace complex comprises buildings constructed by the Qutb Shahi kings during different periods. Most are decorated with floral designs, glazed tilework on the walls, and cut-plaster decorations indicative of the Qutb Shahi style. Sadly, where royalty once went about their daily lives, rats, bats, garbage, grime, and tourists have taken over. At the top of the fort is the Baradari, reached by three stone stairways. As you make your way up, look along the walls for the remains of limestone pipes once part of a sophisticated plumbing system that used Persian wheels to carry water up the hill, so that it could be piped in for bathing, flushing cistern systems, and keeping the palace cool. The climb to the top is worth it for the excellent views alone. The fort hosts an extremely popular sound-and-light show that recounts the history of Golconda using the illuminated ruins as a backdrop. There are performances

Tips

Getting a Guide

You’ll be confronted by many would-be guides at the entrance to the Golconda Fort—ask around for M. D. Rathmath or Shaikh Rajiv. Both have a good grasp of English. The going rate is Rs 300 ($6.85) for 2 to 3 hours. At the end of the day, the guides gather on the lawn outside the fort entrance, near the ticket booth; join them if you’re interested in learning more about Hyderabad culture.

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Asthmatics Say “A-aah!” One of the world’s largest alternative medicinal gatherings takes place annually at Nampally Exhibition Grounds in Hyderabad, usually on June 7 or 8. Just as the monsoon sets in and brings with it all sorts of seasonal respiratory illnesses, hundreds of thousands of asthmatics from all over India flock to the city to receive an unusual cure administered orally by the Bathini Goud brothers. A special herbal medicine is stuffed into the mouth of a 2- or 3-inch murrel (sardine). The fish is then slipped into the patient’s mouth, who swallows the slithering creature alive (the Gouds claim that the wriggling fish increases the efficacy of the medicine because it clears the patient’s throat). The result: For more than 162 years, countless people have reported relief from a variety of respiratory-type disorders. Said to have been given to an ancestor of the present-day Gouds by a Hindu holy man back in 1845, the secret formula has been passed down through the generations and administered free of charge in accordance with the saint’s wishes. Visit www.fish-medicine.org for more information.

in English each night; but be warned that power failures can disrupt the performance—and be sure to take insect repellent. Situated 6km (4 miles) west of the city. & 040/2351-3984. Admission Rs 100 ($2.30). Daily 7am–6pm. English sound-and-light show: Mar–Oct daily 7–8pm; Nov–Feb daily 6:30–7:30pm. Admission Rs 40 (90¢). Tickets available 30 min. before the show; line up early.

Salar Jung Museum Marketed as the world’s largest private collection of art, artifacts, and antiques, this eclectic assortment of more than 30,000 different exhibits was assembled by Salar Jung III, who served as prime minister (wazir) to the Nizam of Hyderabad. It’s a truly fascinating collection—particularly the textiles and fine art section, which includes a fine collection of Indian miniature paintings demonstrating the evolution of styles and the differences between Rajput, Deccan, Pahari, and Mughal paintings, though the displays are somewhat disorganized. One of the most valuable pieces must be a 9th-century edition of the Koran, written in beautiful Kufic script. The weaponry collection includes a diamond-encrusted sword used ceremonially by the Salar Jungs, as well as pieces used by Mughal emperors. There’s something to be said for the sheer profusion of design objects, ranging from boxes studded with precious gems and vessels blown from Indo-Persian glass to a chair made of solid ivory, a gift from Louis XV to Tipu Sultan. In one room, large crowds are drawn to a famous musical clock with a toy watchman who emerges from behind a door every hour in time to beat a melodious gong. Give yourself at least 90 minutes to explore. C. L. Badari, Malakpet. & 040/2452-3211. Admission Rs 150 ($3.40). Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm, 4:15pm last entry. Cameras not allowed.

WHERE TO STAY At press time, exquisite Falaknuma Palace (Tank Bund Rd.), a work of astonishing architectural opulence that has hosted the likes of King George V, was in the process of being converted into a heritage hotel by the Taj hotel group. This is likely to be the

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best place to stay in Hyderabad when it is ready at the end of 2006; visit www.taj hotels.com for ongoing developments. A good budget option is Green Park. Catering primarily to business travelers, Green Park may not rank particularly high in terms of luxury and sophistication, but it’s clean, comfortable, and convenient to the nearby airport. Ask for a garden-facing guest room (& 040/2375-7575; www.hotelgreenpark.com; doubles from Rs 3,615/$81, breakfast included). ITC Hotel Kakatiya Sheraton & Towers Not as opulently over-the-top as Taj Krishna, this fully Wi-Fi–enabled hotel is billed as the best business hotel in town. Public spaces are smartly dressed in a vibrant and culturally evocative assortment of objets d’art typical of the region—decorative silver bidri pieces, detailed frescoes, and elegant furniture finished in rich fabrics. Guest rooms are wonderfully spacious; even the cheapest corporate rooms are large and attractively finished (twins only). The best views are of Hussain Sagar Lake, the city, and the pool (book a room with a number ending in 01, 03, or 05 for the least obstructed view). The atmosphere here is one of down-to-earth sophistication. Staff are friendly and helpful, if not always on the ball. Begumpet, Hyderabad 500 016. & 040/2340-0132. Fax 040/2340-1045. www.welcomgroup.com. 189 units. $200 executive club double (includes breakfast and happy hour); $275 Sheraton Tower; $375–$900 suite. Tower rooms and suites include breakfast, airport transfer, and happy hour. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 2 bars; tea pavilion; patisserie; pool with Jacuzzi; tie-up with army golf course; health club; concierge; travel desk; currency exchange; WiFi enabled; shopping arcade; florist; salon; room service; laundry; dry cleaning; doctor. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, teaand coffee-making facilities, weighing scales in some rooms.

Taj Krishna Situated in the upmarket suburb of Banjara Hills, Hyderabad’s most luxurious hotel is fashioned to emulate the opulence and (sometimes highkitsch) style of an Indian palace; guests have included the late Lady Di, the Dalai Lama, and Kofi Anan. Between its sumptuous arches, zardozi (embroidered) panels, and mother-of-pearl inlaid marble pillars, its lobby is packed full of Belgian chandeliers, ornately engraved mirrors, rococo marble statues, Asian vases, an original French gold-encrusted ornamental grandfather clock, and a fountain spouting water into a dark marble koi pond. The best guest rooms are those on the two Taj Club floors, which have beautiful wooden floors, embroidered sheer curtains, and large bathrooms; club benefits include breakfast, cocktails, and airport pickup. Book an evennumbered room facing the lake and the acre-long pool area. Note that if you opt for a cheaper room, you’ll be more comfortable at the Sheraton. Krishna has some of the city’s most exclusive restaurants (see “Where to Dine,” below), its best nightlife option, and proximity to shopping outlets. The Krishna is very popular, which can tax the general efficiency of staff and elevators when occupancy is up. Rd. no. 1, Banjara Hills, Hyderabad 500 034. & 040/5566-2323 or 040/2339-1313. Fax 040/5566-1313. www.taj hotels.com. 261 units. $225 deluxe double; $330 Taj Club (includes breakfast and airport transfers); $350 executive suite, $450 deluxe suite, $600 luxury suite, $900 presidential suite. $30 extra bed. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; tea lounge; nightclub; pool; clay tennis court; squash, badminton, golf, and sightseeing by arrangement; health club; concierge; travel desk; car hire; limousine service; currency exchange; salon; florist service; bookshop; pearl shop; 24-hr. room service; laundry; dry cleaning; doctor-on-call; library. In room: A/C, TV, dataport; minibar, teaand coffee-making facilities, iron on request.

Viceroy This smart business hotel has a reputation for good value and fine Value service. Offering prime views of the lake from some of its guest rooms, this hotel is marked by unfussy design—as the name implies, decor pays homage to the days of the Raj, with paintings of English lords and ladies throughout. Premier Club rooms are

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partially lake-facing; at night, when Hussain Sagar is lit up, the view is quite lovely. Guest rooms are laid out for business convenience so they’re no-nonsense though, strangely enough, dressed in shades of pink, with brown carpets. Tank Bund Rd., Hyderabad 500 080. & 040/2753-8383. Fax 040/2753-8797. www.viceroyhotels.com. 178 units. $160 executive double; $185 premier club (includes privileges); $135–$160 suite. $15 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; pool; health club; concierge; currency exchange; Internet lounge; shops; pearl shop; salon; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, hair dryer. Also minibar and tea- and coffee-making facilities in Premier Club rooms.

WHERE TO DINE In Hyderabad, food is as important as life itself, a world-view no doubt inherited from the Nizams, who reveled in culinary intemperance. Hyderabad is known for its dumstyle cooking (with its origins in Lucknow): the practice of sealing the pot or dish and gently simmering its ingredients over a slow fire, thereby increasing the absorption of aromatic spices. Lavishly decorated in vibrant blues and distinctively Hyderabadi objets d’art, Dum Pukht (ITC Kakatiya Sheraton & Towers; & 040/23401032; Rs 325–Rs 950/$7.40–$22) is the city’s most celebrated upmarket restaurant, and known for its dum-style dishes. (Dum Pukht literally means cooking by locking in steam.) Try the chef ’s kareli ki nahari, mutton shanks cooked in their own juices and marrow, tinged with cardamom and saffron. Melt-in-the-mouth kakori kebabs prepared from finely minced mutton, green papaya, cloves, and cinnamon are skewered, chargrilled, and eaten with sheermal, saffron-and-milk-infused flaky bread. One of the best examples of dum-style cooking is biryani, Hyderabad’s most timehonored dish, best made with marinated mutton which, together with basmati rice and spices, is prepared in a sealed pot for an aromatic result. Available practically anywhere, it’s best enjoyed with a spicy mirch ka salan (chili curry) and yogurt salad. Azizia, adjacent the Nampally railway station, is said to be the home of biryani, and its chefs claim to be descended from the Nizams’ master chefs. Though it’s pretty tough to get a bad biryani in Hyderabad, some restaurants,

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